I'm about 99% clear on how to do this but I have some slight confusion about just exactly where to cut on the center section of the old nose part.
I know that I should cut along the solid yellow line along the "panel line" or groove, and that I should cut along the dashed yellow line once I have the part positioned, (taped) on the underside of the existing nose of the car so that the dashed yellow line ends up basically level with the ground. The part that I'm confused about is do I simply cut away the remaining portion of the old center divider and leave the resultant "V" notch, or is there another preffered way to do this....possibly by cutting straight across just in front of the "V" so that there is a cleaner edge? Skitime mentioned something about an "L" shaped piece he cut from another section of the nose and bonded in where the "V" is, but I told him I'm more confused now....not at all that difficult for me sometimes
I am in the process of doing this and just cut the holes for the foglamps. I can post a photo tomorrow possibly to show what I have done. Yes cut the center straight across and use some 3M 2 part bumper repair and a flat piece from the scraps from the old bumper with some fiberglass cloth and bond in on backside, I did not like cutting off the sides to flap in the breeze so I measured down both sides in and out and marked with masking tape. I then scored both sides so it would flex and then folded it over after I used the bumper repair stuff and the cloth. This gives the side edges a smooth bottom that can be re-inforced and looks like a smaller version of the bottom edge of the top bumper. I planned on using plastic pop rivets but decided if I ever need to remove it I would be better off to use stainless bolts and nuts to attach. The leading edge at the bottom center needs some re-inforcement and I'm debating what to use there. I think I will have to remove the rear of the reflector buckets so the foglamps fit and I plan on molding them in but will drill the bucket for the mounting bolts to hold the lamps and also secure the lower spoiler too. I think I will prime and paint seperately then bolt together. Hope this helps.
[This message has been edited by Mike Murphy (edited 01-12-2007).]
Thanks Mike If I understand correctly, you're saying that you cut where I have shown the red lines?
I was thinking of riveting an aluminum stiffner bar inside, and across the center section...similar to the function of the "C" shaped metal stiffner bar that that is on the underside of the stock nose....shown here by the green line. The rest of what you describe regarding multiple cuts and bending?, I guess I'll have to see photos of that to comprehend.
Randy
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10:18 PM
jscott1 Member
Posts: 21676 From: Houston, TX , USA Registered: Dec 2001
I would suggest mounting it firmly to the car before making the final cuts. It has a tendency to flex on you like a noodle and it's better to trim it in place. Otherwise it might look straight until you get it on.
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10:41 PM
jscott1 Member
Posts: 21676 From: Houston, TX , USA Registered: Dec 2001
I would suggest mounting it firmly to the car before making the final cuts. It has a tendency to flex on you like a noodle and it's better to trim it in place. Otherwise it might look straight until you get it on.
I've always enjoyed flexing my noodle, but I agree it's a lot easier to handle once you get it firmed up.......
Sorry, I just couldn't resist......
Randy
------------------ Everyone thinks I'm psychotic, except for my friends deep inside the earth.
OK, here is what I *think* the center section should basically look like after making the preliminary cuts. The sides will need to be cut after mounting it to the car to keep things nice and level and straight.
I am beginning to understand how the center section could eventually sag down now, so some extra reinforcement or support in this area is obviously a wise idea.
I haven't been getting a lot of help on this so far, so I thought I would turn this into sort of a build thread. I know that I will be making some rookie errors and probably leave some of those that have already done this scratching their heads, but I do like "step-by-step" instructions sometimes, and I wasn't able to find anything comprehensive in the archives, so here goes......Hopefully those that have done this might jump in and offer their sage advice as this goes along.
Here I cut along the "groove" of the old GT nose by scoring it with a sharp utility knife numerous times and then simply flexing it back and forth a couple of times and it just pops right apart. I made a tape line to keep the cut going rearward into the old opening area level with the groove on the front of the nose...so far very easy...
Once all the trimming around the groove line was done it was time to remove the remains of the old center post / divider in the opening. I cut around the post far enough to remove as much of the fillet radius as I could.
I carefully measured in from the inside wall of the old nose 2 inches and made a black marker line to follow. I then used the utility knife again and carefully scored numerous times and flexed the urethane till it popped apart with an nice clean and even line. I had to work a few sections at a time due to size and the floppyness (is that a word?), of the part.
Once the inside 2 inch "flange" created, this is what it looks like
Here is another view of the sides. Note that it is still the original height of the old nose. Once this is mounted onto the car I plan on making a tape line starting from the front of the nose along the groove where I first cut and marking a straight line level with the floor. This should end up tapered back toward the wheel well properly then.
The blue line here shows approx where I expect the cut line will be once it's marked off level with the garage floor
IF there is any interest in this, I'll keep posting progress, othwerwise If I'm boring you to death I'll cease and desist immediately
Randy
------------------ Everyone thinks I'm psychotic, except for my friends deep inside the earth.
If I understand correctly, skitime and others have said that they bonded a scrap piece of old nose section behind the "V" notch where I've shown the dashed yellow lines. It looks to me like I could simply cut straight across the top of the blue tape line where the red arrows are and not have to bother with filling in the "V" notch. Probably need to at least get the piece taped up on the underside of the nose in rough position and see how it might look...
Randy
------------------ Everyone thinks I'm psychotic, except for my friends deep inside the earth.
No...Don't...Stop........No don't stop! I am very interested in this modification. I will either do this or the Taurus chin spoiler depending on which one looks better. This seems easier then splitting the front fascia, lowering the bottom lip and filling in the gap... and definitely more durable. Again please continue this thread. I love and need the step by step build thread style.
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06:00 PM
Mike Murphy Member
Posts: 2251 From: Greencastle, Indiana 46135 Registered: Oct 2001
Used rear reflector bucket as a pattern by setting on top and traced bottom... not the top as it is tapered at bottom and you want to mount it behind the spoiler.
[This message has been edited by Mike Murphy (edited 01-13-2007).]
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08:26 PM
Mike Murphy Member
Posts: 2251 From: Greencastle, Indiana 46135 Registered: Oct 2001
Image with bucket fabricated in place from back side. Use fiberglass cloth also between layers for strength by laying down a layer of the epoxy first then spread the cloth over the still uncured epoxy and add final layer of epoxy over cloth.
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08:35 PM
Mike Murphy Member
Posts: 2251 From: Greencastle, Indiana 46135 Registered: Oct 2001
This is reflector bucket with backside cut out. It slants so make sure the high side goes toward the inward side of the spoiler. This allows for the curvature of the spoiler and the fog lamp will be square.
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08:38 PM
Mike Murphy Member
Posts: 2251 From: Greencastle, Indiana 46135 Registered: Oct 2001
Spread final layer of epoxy and let dry. Working time is about 5-10 minutes. If painting use 80 grit to smooth really rough stuff and then 180 grit. I like to use adhesion promoter before priming. Plan on painting in 2 seperate sections and using stainless hardware to bolt on in the event I want to remove someday.
[This message has been edited by Mike Murphy (edited 01-13-2007).]
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08:44 PM
Mike Murphy Member
Posts: 2251 From: Greencastle, Indiana 46135 Registered: Oct 2001
Now to fill the center section. I took a piece of the front fascia and sanded it down to bare plastic. Used the flat edge to align with the bottom of the spoiler. Add a layer of epoxy to the back and then press firmly into place and secure with masking tape.
Add some cloth on both sides.
and add another layer of epoxy.
More later after additional bracing, filling & sanding.
[This message has been edited by Mike Murphy (edited 01-13-2007).]
FANTASTIC Mike! Thanks for jumping in on this. I'm taking a much more simplified approach and not adding the rectangular driving / fog lights so your detailed build description is great to have here.
Yes keep the post up. I'm interested in doing this next summer.
Question, are you mounting the it flush with the front or set back a small amount to have a reveal. You planning on leaving the mating line or filling it smooth?
Thanks
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12:09 AM
Blacktree Member
Posts: 20770 From: Central Florida Registered: Dec 2001
On mine, I decided to trim the center a bit more. I added a green line to your photo to approximate where I cut mine.
Yeah, I know the line is off-kilter. But hopefully you get the idea.
I also learned a few tricks along the way.
First of all, the ground effects on the side of the car measure 7" from top to bottom. And the seam line in the aero nose (top edge of the ground effects) is even with the top edge of the side ground effects. Plus, that seam line in the nose is horizontal. To make a long story short, if you attach the chin spoiler and mark/cut the bottom edge 7" below that seam line in the nose, your front ground effects will match the sides.
It's important that you attach the chin spoiler to the nose BEFORE you do the final mark/cut, because it will bend during installation.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 02-10-2007).]
I don't have my car any more, so I can't go out and look at it. However, if I remember correctly, I cut the panel more like your picture in the third post with the red line. I cut it back to where the radius of the support section disappeared. You can see that I cut the "drop sides" up on an angle to meet the cut that goes across the bottom:
Another comment I have is about you saying you would trim the valence parallel to the garage floor. Rather than do that, I crafted a large compus and drew a parallel line to the crease in the stock bumper.
I used to have a write-up on this, but can't find it right now. If you have any other questions, feel free to email me directly at webeproducts@adelphia.net
I am in the process of making one of these with a spare bumper. Great thread with alot of help and pics but I know you have to cut out the divider piece in the middle but I was wondering do you have to bond a flat piece in its place or can I just leave it open. I dont think it will be visible. thanks
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01:35 PM
Mister Member
Posts: 1975 From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Registered: Aug 2004
............ Taurus chin spoiler ....????????? What's this look like?
depending on which one looks better. This seems easier then splitting the front fascia, lowering the bottom lip and filling in the gap... and definitely more durable. Again please continue this thread. I love and need the step by step build thread style.
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06:22 PM
Mister Member
Posts: 1975 From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Registered: Aug 2004
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From the Fiero of the Master maid himself...
