Finally I have got some more going on this!

I will let the pictures talk








Feel free to anyone to make them show up, but this should give some people thinking of doing the swap a little motivation!

I'll start giving more updates as I make progess!

Ah! I forgot the guy that I bought this motor from found the dyno slip for this, I asked him to mail it to me, see if he does. The 4 door cavy that this motor was powering put out 138whp thru the stock auto tranny. He said it was dynoed around 2 weeks after he bought it. makes me very happy!

looks good .that dyno slip would confirm that the eco makes way more than the stock rating of 145 hp .

No supercharger?

[This message has been edited by Cheever3000 (edited 02-19-2007).]

how far are you? (what is done so far). are you using the stock ecotec tranny? if so any problems that you see? hope it goes smooth for you, it would be nice to have another popular engine to put into a fiero.

------------------
1986 Silver 5 speed Fiero 3.4 DOHC
Bored .30, Fully balanced and blueprinted
13.93@101mph as it is on the street.
... ... !
350ci 400hp/tq SBC, 4 bolt main
Spec Stage 3, Nitrous Oxide, many extras.
87 GT 5-speed Getrag, power everything.

quote Originally posted by flames4me: how far are you? (what is done so far). are you using the stock ecotec tranny? if so any problems that you see? hope it goes smooth for you, it would be nice to have another popular engine to put into a fiero.

The tranny I am using is the isuzi 5spd that came with the duke. I havent researched these problems much yet because of this week, but getting an intake off of the throttlebody, in that picture it isnt REALLY connected to the tranny, i got one bolt thru the adapter but something is holding it back right now. ( note: if you look at Fieroturbo's thread page 12, he has to notch part of the cradle which is the exact problem I am going to run into, i think.)

Other problems
Exhaust header on FWD ecotecs are not ideal for Fieros, wtfb suggested a Saturn Sky or Solistice header (ie RWD ecotec header)
Mounts are seem to be the biggest toss up, there are only 5 members here that I have seen attempting the ecotec swap and most of the mounts seem to be different, no proven way yet.

I think once these problems are solved it should be a sweet swap, im sure theres more little things but there is in every swap.

i think the supercharged motor will fit but only with the transmision it came with .you can tilt the motor more than i did without any axle problems and the stock airbox and manifold sticks out quite far from the block anyway .i would love a 2.0 sc motor but they havent started showing up at the wreckers yet .the cobalt ss supercharged costs a lot more money than the normal cobalt ss and a lot of people are not willing to sink that much money in to a cobalt .

bump.

I don't know why you are concerned with angling the motor back. Have a peek at the MK2 MR2 sometime, it has a nice lean to it. If you put the work in to line things up, I don't know any reason not to lean the motor ~10 degrees. Work on the oil pick up or redesign on the oil pan and much more lean should be fine.

------------------
2005 Smart ForTwo CDI
1986 Austin Mini
1986 Fiero GT 5-speed (waiting on a brake upgrade)
2007 Ninja 500

quote Originally posted by midengineracer: I don't know why you are concerned with angling the motor back. Have a peek at the MK2 MR2 sometime, it has a nice lean to it. If you put the work in to line things up, I don't know any reason not to lean the motor ~10 degrees. Work on the oil pick up or redesign on the oil pan and much more lean should be fine.

I dont have a prob with the motor getting its lean on, in its stock car its already leaned, but with the adapter its straight up, it puts it snug under the back window and should also help with getting the car a good 50/50 weight dis.

I wanna work on it now! lol

I have the ECOtec in my VUE and just so you know, it's tipped back a few degreez to the exhaust side. And in the Fiero, that's a lot of help considering where the exhaust manifold points.

i could have tilted mine quite a bit more .i dont have as much tilt as a stock cobalt .the stock oil pickup is designed for a tilt anyway so even leaning a little more than a cobalt's angle is not a problem .the limiting factor is with to much tilt the axles will hit the block.i decided to turbo mine bacause it is cheaper than the supercharger kit that GM sells.a subaru turbo can be bolted to the stock cavalier exhaust manifold by drilling and tapping new holes.there are pics on my swap thread.

tilting the motor maybe needed to a certain extent with the stock fiero tranny, I will get pics of what I am talking about with the throttlebody. WTFB did your motor hit the cradle on the front of the motor towards the passenger side corner? Im going to go over the other threads and look anyways.

grrr i hate homework but it comes first then the fiero

yes it did .right where the air conditioner compressor goes .see if i can find a pic .

quote Originally posted by wftb: i would love a 2.0 sc motor but they havent started showing up at the wreckers yet.

There's a guy on the redline forums selling a totalled car for around $2100.

wftb, how much did you have to cut off? Was that the only place it was hitting? Im trying to get the motor lined up with my tranny, but i cannot get it to line up correctly, the starter side is about an inch or so to high... I thinking thats my problem. What do you think?

i had to cut a big "v" out of it .cut the v level your cradle and cut some more v to get the motor level with the cradle .it takes a lot of trial and error.fiero turbo's thread has better pics and he used a fiero tranny like you are doing.

This a typical ECOTECH. The Pontiac dealer next door has them towed in all the time. GM has a TSB to correct the issue, but The guys next door say it has not helped.

[This message has been edited by AJxtcman (edited 02-22-2007).]

Well I've been reading alot on these eco engines. I got a few questions. What's the diferences between the 2.0, 2.2 and 2.4? I would like to do a 2.0SC swap with an automatic. But a 2.4SC would be better, maybe. I've seen an adapter plate to use a 4t65 on a eco 2.2. Don't know if a 4t40e will bolt to a 2.0? I've seen 2.0SC selling in the recycle yards for around 2K, still a little pricey. Any enlightenment would be appreciated.

------------------

85 GT 3.4
14.9 @ 90 1.9 60' Old TH125/3.06
Unknown New 4T60/3.42

quote Originally posted by Lilchief: Well I've been reading alot on these eco engines. I got a few questions. What's the diferences between the 2.0, 2.2 and 2.4? I would like to do a 2.0SC swap with an automatic. But a 2.4SC would be better, maybe. I've seen an adapter plate to use a 4t65 on a eco 2.2. Don't know if a 4t40e will bolt to a 2.0? I've seen 2.0SC selling in the recycle yards for around 2K, still a little pricey. Any enlightenment would be appreciated.

2.0 is a destroked 2.2, has forged internals good to approx 300hp. These are the Supercharged ones
2.2 is the swap of choice, these didnt come with the supercharger but can be added via the GM supercharger kit
2.4 has VVT and would need the stock computer to run in a fiero, I havent heard of any 2.4 being supercharged.


BTW My sponsor for megasquirt has setup a specfic MS unit for ecotecs now and the ign. is set for OBD1 DIS systems. Should be avaiable soon!

2.0 comes in two flavours -super or turbocharged .turbo engine is for sostice and saturn sky rear drive platforms and is high pressure direct injection.sc is upgrade for cobalt ss and i think saturn ion redline.
2.2 is the base ecotec found in just about every small (cobalt and up) car gm makes.
2.4 is the vtec style eco .base engine in solstice ,sky ,and cobalt ss and saturn vue . i think the different sizes are just changes in bore sizes .all castings have the same architecture so frankenstein motors are possible.
all motors are aluminum head and block ,4valve/cyl ,chain driven dohc .
i cant tell from the pic what exactly went wrong with that motor but i have heard nothing but good things about ecotecs ,both from people that own them and people that are racing them.if you care to elaborate what is breaking on them that would be helpfull .

quote Originally posted by wftb: 2.0 comes in two flavours -super or turbocharged .turbo engine is for sostice and saturn sky rear drive platforms and is high pressure direct injection.sc is upgrade for cobalt ss and i think saturn ion redline. 2.2 is the base ecotec found in just about every small (cobalt and up) car gm makes. 2.4 is the vtec style eco .base engine in solstice ,sky ,and cobalt ss and saturn vue . i think the different sizes are just changes in bore sizes .all castings have the same architecture so frankenstein motors are possible. all motors are aluminum head and block ,4valve/cyl ,chain driven dohc . i cant tell from the pic what exactly went wrong with that motor but i have heard nothing but good things about ecotecs ,both from people that own them and people that are racing them.if you care to elaborate what is breaking on them that would be helpfull .

I know for sure the displacement diff of the 2.0 and 2.2 is just the stroke not the bore.

I know the earlier ecos ,dont quote me but i think 2003 and earlier ,had a prob with a oil nozzle for the chain drive that would sometimes plug. But I havent heard much about them so I dont think its a huge problem.

wtfb, give me an amount u think i should take off the cradle, i dont want to take to much off... your the only eco/fiero person i can get ahold of before tomorrow

my frame notch is about 4 " wide at the top and 2" at the bottom .dont cut the bottom curved piece of metal .if you are planning to use this crossmember for a mount (i didnt) ,you should box it in .test fit your tranny and motor assembly before you cut.if you look at my picture you can see i could have done a smaller notch if i had centred it better.

Thanks thats what I needed to know, I was wondering tho, I took my A/C compressor off and was looking at where it connects to the oil pan, with it off its just a tiny piece where the compressor mounts. But I was wondering if there is a different style oilpan for the non a/c motors that wouldnt need the notch cut?

anyone care to spread some input?

Any idea on how to make the tranny angle slightly towards the passenger rear?

quote Originally posted by wftb: 2.0 comes in two flavours -super or turbocharged .turbo engine is for sostice and saturn sky rear drive platforms and is high pressure direct injection.sc is upgrade for cobalt ss and i think saturn ion redline. 2.2 is the base ecotec found in just about every small (cobalt and up) car gm makes. 2.4 is the vtec style eco .base engine in solstice ,sky ,and cobalt ss and saturn vue . i think the different sizes are just changes in bore sizes .all castings have the same architecture so frankenstein motors are possible. all motors are aluminum head and block ,4valve/cyl ,chain driven dohc . i cant tell from the pic what exactly went wrong with that motor but i have heard nothing but good things about ecotecs ,both from people that own them and people that are racing them.if you care to elaborate what is breaking on them that would be helpfull .

Good snapshot of available GM engines:
http://www.gminsidenews.com...hp?page=Engine_Guide

They forgot the Saab 9-3, but it is listed on the official GM site.
http://media.gm.com/us/powe...m#ECOTEC20LI4ENGINES

------------------
FierOmar

Something anybody doing the adapter plate for the stock tranny may want to take note. Ceticars and I both pulled the coolant tube up and bent it outward

see here


If you look closely you can see the coolant tube still slightly covers the adapter plate. I *THINK* this is what is causing some of my bolts on my adapter plate to be slightly high to connect to the transmission.

I have two choices A. grind part of the top of my transmission to clear it or B cut the coolant tube and use rubber hoses to connect it. I am leaning towards one but I would like some others inputs, Im afriad of a coolant leak doing B but Im afraid to create a good cracking point on the transmission doing A. Both could end up costing me a new transmission or engine in a worse case.

Any input?

Well I solved the above problem with moving the tube out more, it gives quiet a bit more then expected.

Ive decided to drop the cradle seeing how I cannot for the life of me figure out why it is still hitting and not lining up correctly. Im sure it will be something very dumb and easy...

Well I got my first break...

I started dropping the cradle, unhooking the brakes and trans slave and shifter cables. I moved onto the strut towers. I sprayed the cradle bolts down with PB blaster a few hours before thinking I was going to have big problems with them, which was why I orginally just wanted to do it from up top. Well I started with one of the rear bolts and I got the breaker bar on it and with some simple tugging I got it loose, I kept it in there and moved to the next. Same thing, some tugging and it broke loose no probs. I moved to the front and I had to use the impact and it broke it and the nut fell off before I knew what happened. I had NO problem with the cradle which makes me very happy! Im going to have the damn motor hooked to the cradle before the end of the night!

One step closer
BTW anyone have anything to say, 150 new views and no comments

Definitely looks good. I'm looking forward to seeing it completed, so I can leech off of some of your ideas to get my car running!

Have you started your swap yet?

Alright well I got the cradle out in under 2 hours, not bad doing it for the second time and doing it solo.

I mounted the ecotec up using the one guild bolt and its still hitting on my cradle... ALOT more then fieroturbos or wtfb's ecotecs where. I am unsure of the cause of this still and will be workin on it in the morning

Here is my front motor mount


Broke the drill bit so I didnt get to finish drilling the holes

bump

I saw your post in the mall looking for a dogbone, I was wondering how you were going to attach it to the ecotec... is this just a temporary setup? I'd be a little worried about what will happen to that under load.

Have you seen the mounts kris munson is selling? They look pretty good and will save you a lot of trouble.

i think the mount you are making will work fine ,provided you use a weight bearing mount on the bottom.add an angle brace to prevent flexing at the dog bone .if you are planning on no air conditioner ,you can buy a shorter belt from gm that was made for a cavalier without air con.i saw a post where someone made an idler pulley instead of just buying the short belt.
keep in mind aluminum is much weaker than steel .i would add a piece of flat bar under your dogbone and join it to the other mount hole on the casting you are bolted to .that would spread the load and prevent cracking.

Glad your back!

Anyways on the mount ( i havent updated on this forum do to the lack of interest), It wont allow the motor much movement forward and backwards but it allowing the motor side to side movement, bad part of it is I had to remove my battery tray and it hits the pin that is on the decklid hinges. Im stuck...

I have 3 bolts at the bottom of the cradle for the mount, one which is angled threw the cradle to help give no movement there.
WTFB, can you use my last pic and make like a diagram of what you mean? And its not just a straight bar its angle iron and doesnt give much...hopefully

I was planning on getting ahold of the 4cylinder dogbone and installing it on the bottom part of the motor connecting to the rear of the cradle, to eliminate the side to side movement.

The cradle and motor are back in the car but Im going to have to take it all back out again, I got the motor connected to the trans but I think I messed 2 threads up on the adapter plate, but Im going to get the mounts figured out and the lengths of the wire for the megasquirt. It has to comeback out anyways to install the clutch and flywheel, im gonna get pretty good at that let me tell ya!

all you need is a short piece of L channell run on about a 45* angle from the cradle to about 1/2 way up your post .that will stop any flexing .if you are going to have some sort of bottom mount you wont need another dog bone.these motors do not shake .i even considered solid mounts at one time.