I am planning to replace the stainless coolant tubes that run the length of the car with 1 1/2" custom bent stainless steel tubing on my '86 GT 350 V8 for better flow. I have Quality Stainless Tubing and a really good exaust shop lined up that has assured me that they can bent them to any specifications that I need. There is some question however as to how to remove these pipes and what is "actually" required. I am going to post pics of all of the work, so please stay posted over the next month or so. Anyone that has replaced their coolant tubes, please post the best way that you have found! So that I can get the tubes out in tact and to the exaust shop to get them fabbed as fast as possible. Thank you and stay tuned!
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05:25 AM
PFF
System Bot
Gwain Member
Posts: 460 From: Titusville, Florida, USA Registered: Dec 2004
I had to replace the driver's side tube on my 85 Sport when I replaced the 2.5 Duke with a 2.8 V6.
I talked with a lot of folks about having to remove the front wheel and suspension, maybe front frame, etc. etc. Being bullheaded, I decided to try it without that amount of component removal.
After getting the pipe loose, and removing it's brackets, and wrestling with the thing for an hour or so, I hit upon removing the front "tub". (The lower piece of the front storage area). After the tube was out, I could turn the pipe several ways, and ease it out from the car. The replacement went in with the reverse procedure, easy as you please!
I don't recall whether I actually pulled the front tire off or not, but if you have to, that's far easier than pulling the shock, spring and knuckle, or worse yet the frame. I actually had to do this twice since I was sent the wrong replacement pipe the first time!
The tub comes out pretty easy. It's only about 4 or 6 small bolts as I recall, and lifts right out. Takes you longer to remove the spare tire and jack, than to pull the tube.
Hope that helps.
Marc in sunny Titusville, Fl
85 Sport w/V6 transplant 85 GT newly acquired, just on the road 84 SE son's car, loaded
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07:51 AM
Gokart Mozart Member
Posts: 12143 From: Metro Detroit Registered: Mar 2003
If you don't care about the old tubes, why not cut them? If you make marks on both sides of the cut before you cut, you can line them up when you get to the shop. Tape or weld them for a perfect fit. You still might have to remove the tub for a easier install.
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08:27 AM
Pyrthian Member
Posts: 29569 From: Detroit, MI Registered: Jul 2002
Update: Incase any one is wondering where I am getting my Stainless Steel Tubing from their website is http://www.onlinemetals.com/ ... The website is kinda jenky but they have good products. Total Cost 150.00 for (2) 10' length 1.5" Stainless Steel pipes. Even if it is $ 50.00 to have them bent into shape, they will have saved me $200.00 over Fierostore... Pretty good price for an upgrade!
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12:38 PM
Chicken McNizzle Member
Posts: 1310 From: Valencia, CA Registered: Jan 2004
Your not gonna like this, but for pre-88 models the front suspension crossmember damn near has to be removed to replace and install the coolant tubes, yet another reason to envy the 88's on a mechanical level
------------------ Former West Coast Fiero Employee
Your not gonna like this, but for pre-88 models the front suspension crossmember damn near has to be removed to replace and install the coolant tubes, yet another reason to envy the 88's on a mechanical level
Yeah, I broke the steering column coupler on my old parts car dropping a driver's side tube. On the 88 just undo coupla bolts and falls right down. I definitely agree with making them in two parts.
------------------ www.FieroDomain.com Over 120 Fiero Links, Articles, Images, Diagnostics
"If any car is both the parade and the rain, it is the Fiero"
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05:26 PM
Jul 15th, 2007
4LB21HP Member
Posts: 58 From: Roseville, CA, USA Registered: Oct 2005
Ok, so I finally got around to starting work on my 86 Fiero GT again... I recieved the coolant tubes in the mail and got to it. It actually was a an easy removal process. Steps listed below...
1) Remove front spart tire tub for easy access. 2) Drain coolant 3) Disconnect coolant tubes from hard lines and remove under carriage brackets. 4) Remove botls from lengthwise frame rail 1 per side. 5) Pull tubes sideways out from the car from rearward ends.
The passenger side coolant tube is actually easier to remove than the drivers side, but not by much.
Below is a picture of the old tubes and a new one...
More to come...
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11:34 AM
4LB21HP Member
Posts: 58 From: Roseville, CA, USA Registered: Oct 2005
That didn't go perfectly... Well it was my first time posting a picture and I didn't know that the server doesn't allow pictures over 100K to be displayed... So here we go again.
Old coolant lines and new one...
More to come...
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11:41 AM
4LB21HP Member
Posts: 58 From: Roseville, CA, USA Registered: Oct 2005
Here is a picture of the drivers side coolant tube's crush area. You can clearly see how there is NO FLOW... And why I am doing this repair. Imagine trying to keep a V8 cool with that...
Passenger side is not as bad, but still not good.
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11:46 AM
PFF
System Bot
Aug 8th, 2007
Quickster Member
Posts: 828 From: Bakersfield, California >USA< Registered: Jan 2002
Ok, I know it has been a long time since I have posted to this thread. I apologize for that! Great idea and project, but I had to put it up on the shelf aswell as my 86 GT for 6 months. I'm back on the project again and it should be complete within the month! I really miss hearing it run, loud as all heck. Pics to follow... Bryan B.
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05:04 AM
4LB21HP Member
Posts: 58 From: Roseville, CA, USA Registered: Oct 2005
Clear view coolant tube! I found this two weeks ago and ordered two. This seems like the perfect solution to the fiero "air in the coolant system" syndrome. Imagine place this in the highest point of the coolant system and you can actually see if you're running low on coolant! Even while it's running. Also if there are contaminents in the system; gasket material, oil (head gasket leak) or anything else is it visible. Plus it is extremely tough pyrex, they have a video of a truck running over one of these on their web site. All I can say is awesome. Ohh, they come in 1.25" and 1.5"
Bryan B.
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05:20 AM
4LB21HP Member
Posts: 58 From: Roseville, CA, USA Registered: Oct 2005
Another item that I ordered online. It's a radiator filter! I only thought that it made sense to look to see if one existed. There were three ones that I found; Golan, Gano and tefba. I went with the Golan. Since my whole coolant system is going to be new I want to keep it that way as long as possible. I still havn't recieved it yet but it looks promising, 68.00 with shipping. The guy that I ordered it from didn't speak english all that well so it took like 30 minutes to order. Hehe. Attached is a pitcure of the item and a picture of actual junk removed from a coolant system. Imagine all that junk ending up in your radiator!
Bryan B.
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05:58 AM
4LB21HP Member
Posts: 58 From: Roseville, CA, USA Registered: Oct 2005
Here are the waterpump components. First pic is the water pump, second is the coolant crossover and third is the spacers that I used between the block and the coolant crossover tube. Notice the 0-rings on the spacers so there is no gasket or RTV necessary. Nice feature.
Bryan B.
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06:34 AM
1MohrFiero Member
Posts: 4363 From: Paducah, Ky Registered: Apr 2003
Clear view coolant tube! I found this two weeks ago and ordered two. This seems like the perfect solution to the fiero "air in the coolant system" syndrome. Imagine place this in the highest point of the coolant system and you can actually see if you're running low on coolant! Even while it's running. Also if there are contaminents in the system; gasket material, oil (head gasket leak) or anything else is it visible. Plus it is extremely tough pyrex, they have a video of a truck running over one of these on their web site. All I can say is awesome. Ohh, they come in 1.25" and 1.5"
Bryan B.
So where does this come from and how much do they want for it?
------------------
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08:05 AM
Chris Hodson Member
Posts: 3099 From: Carpentersville Registered: Aug 2006
What if there was a piece of the fexible type tube long enough to span the distance under the car, or possibly use long sections of the flex tube? Then you wouldnt have to get anything custom made and fitting wouldnt be to hard to acomplish as long as you have a clever way to mout it all so it doesnt fall? maybe?
...actually nm, i just thought about the conditions those tubes would be exposed to...
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08:10 AM
4LB21HP Member
Posts: 58 From: Roseville, CA, USA Registered: Oct 2005
Sure I don't mind sharing. The website is http://www.killerglass.com/...info&products_id=194 Remember the tubing is hardened pyrex glass. So it can't flex at all. They do have the ability to make custom shapes and sizes though. When I talked to the guy that I ordered it from he told me it is the same material that they use for the space shuttle's windows. Nice... Costs about 50.00
I recognise that water pump but where did you get that Coolant Crossover? I have seen some that are marketed for drag racing but those are usually cast aluminum.
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10:56 PM
PFF
System Bot
Feb 25th, 2008
RCR Member
Posts: 4416 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
Another item that I ordered online. It's a radiator filter! I only thought that it made sense to look to see if one existed. There were three ones that I found; Golan, Gano and tefba. I went with the Golan. Since my whole coolant system is going to be new I want to keep it that way as long as possible. I still havn't recieved it yet but it looks promising, 68.00 with shipping. The guy that I ordered it from didn't speak english all that well so it took like 30 minutes to order. Hehe. Attached is a pitcure of the item and a picture of actual junk removed from a coolant system. Imagine all that junk ending up in your radiator!
Bryan B.
Interestimg project. I was curious how well the Stewart pump would work. I have not seen anyone use it yet. I do not think the filter is a good idea without a flow meter behind it. The filter will plug up much quicker than a radiator ever will and it will become quite a PITA to check the clear section to ensure you have flow.
Bob
[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 02-25-2008).]
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07:13 AM
ltlfrari Member
Posts: 5356 From: Wake Forest,NC,USA Registered: Jan 2002
Ok, now to answer the questions... The water pump is Stewart Warner and has a 13/4" inlet and outlet. It flows 55GPM and has a digital load regulator mounted to the pump and pleny of flow. As for the filter it needs to be mounted at the highest point in the system. For one really good reason, that way you have to drain as little fluid as possible to clean it. The only thing that is a bother to me. It is recommended that you clean the filter within the first 5 minuets of the first startup. After that it's cleaned most the junk out of the system and needs to be checked when you make any modifications to the system. If not for the filter the only place that the junk in the system can end up is in the radiator and with endless cycles it's going to end up there. I was worried about the filter plugging up easily too until I measured the filter screen. It's 2.5" in diameter and the stock tubes are 1.25". That's twice the size. You have to remember this is not a daily driver and I've put less than 1000 miles on it in the last 3 years. So I'm not concerned about the time it takes to clean it. It's nice to have 2 Fieros because I'm always working on one of them. About the coolant tubes. They are Aulminum and Stainless steel. Under the car is SS and anything in the engine bay it is Aluminum. I have a friend that does muffler work and he hooked me up with the SS bends. With the aluminum tubes, they're thin wall. So I got mandrel bent pieces and took them to the local machine shop to have them welded up. This guy does awesome aluminum welds. I need to post some pictures for you all of the aluminum tubes in, they look great. I just have to make room for my filter now. Thanks for the interest guys.
you could have easily saved some money going to a higher efficiency smaller radiator rather than mandrel bent tubes. I'm not convinced a high HP V8 engine needs such modification to the coolant system.
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09:01 PM
Steven Snyder Member
Posts: 3326 From: Los Angeles, CA Registered: Mar 2004
you could have easily saved some money going to a higher efficiency smaller radiator rather than mandrel bent tubes. I'm not convinced a high HP V8 engine needs such modification to the coolant system.
His old tubes were crushed..
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09:05 PM
Feb 29th, 2008
KOS Member
Posts: 461 From: Austin, Texas Registered: Feb 2008
not trying to hijack the thread just a question reagading all of this as it kind of seems fitting.
Has anyone put any inline coolers into their system? These were a couple I made for a guy some time ago for his ATV and dirt bike. Haven't ever seem them in cars but just wondering if they would help to reduce temps at all?
here is a pic of what i am talking about
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09:35 AM
Curlrup Member
Posts: 2590 From: Havre De Grace, MD Registered: Apr 2007
not trying to hijack the thread just a question reagading all of this as it kind of seems fitting.
Has anyone put any inline coolers into their system? These were a couple I made for a guy some time ago for his ATV and dirt bike. Haven't ever seem them in cars but just wondering if they would help to reduce temps at all?
here is a pic of what i am talking about
Wow that would be real easy to make on a lathe and might cool things down some. Very cool.
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01:46 PM
PFF
System Bot
KOS Member
Posts: 461 From: Austin, Texas Registered: Feb 2008
yeah I did make these on my lathe. Just after reading this thread and the thought about keeping temps down, it just popped into my head. Just wanted to see if anyone had ever seen them on cars or not??
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02:17 PM
p8ntman442 Member
Posts: 1747 From: portsmouth RI Registered: Sep 2003
Those coolant tubes look awesome! If they were a little smaller and longer they could be used as underbody coolant tubes. Which I'm sure you can do. Nice!!!
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08:59 PM
4LB21HP Member
Posts: 58 From: Roseville, CA, USA Registered: Oct 2005
The one that was listed earlier is... The posted one didn't work for me. https://www.shogunindustries.com/cgi-bin/ws400CS.cgi?cart_id=1080302080009820&page=products.htm&view_item=M0460
I actually like the one that was posted by fieroguru better Ohh well...
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09:10 PM
4LB21HP Member
Posts: 58 From: Roseville, CA, USA Registered: Oct 2005
To tell you the truth I don't really know if this kind (extreme) of coolant system modification is really required to keep the car cool. I'm big on overkill. I was already running an archie 4 core radiator and with the v8 it was overheating in 70 Deg. weather before I started this coolant system endeavor! I know it was probably due to the crunched pipes, but the way that I see it if you're going to build a motor that cost $6,000.00 in parts alone it is just comforting for me to know that it won't overheat regardless of the summer temps. In Sacramento, C.A. it gets to 110 Deg plus in the summer. As for recycled tubes or even fiero store tubes, I really wanted to see if it would make a difference to have 1.5" tubes. Also it is nice having the same sized tubing all the way through out the entire coolant system for future repairs and locating parts. 1.5" hose only. Knock on wood... Also with any used tubes I would encounter 20 years of rust and crud in the pipes. Now I know I could clean them but why not just buy new ones. Shiny new parts GOOD!!! I know I might be trying to re-invent the wheel in this project but it is something that has always bothered me and it's my way to get it out of the back of my mind.
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09:57 PM
Mar 4th, 2008
4LB21HP Member
Posts: 58 From: Roseville, CA, USA Registered: Oct 2005
Ok here are some more pics... This one is of the coolant tube installed. I had it modified by my local machine shop. The next is fitment of the tubes and just to see how things work together. Sorry about the bubbles... TS project... G-14 Classified. Just playing, it's for another topic. It does give you an idea of how the system is to be routed. The water pump is on the drivers side, down next to the tranny.
[This message has been edited by 4LB21HP (edited 03-04-2008).]
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07:49 AM
Saxman Member
Posts: 5151 From: Melbourne, FL Registered: May 2005
I love the idea of the marine inlet crossover! That's whats great about the Internet and this forum, cross pollination of ideas.
I currently have a homemade setup on my SBC Too many hoses, clamps and failure points. Your solution is elegant. I'm going to check with my local marinas.
Just wondering why the spacers were used. It looks like there may be sufficient clearance without.
I'm back on the project again and it should be complete within the month! I really miss hearing it run, loud as all heck. Pics to follow...
