Parts america or Advance auto lists the Turbo TA pump as part# E3270 and the Grand National Turbo part# E3211. Same engine different pump?????
Just got of the phone with the Airtex tech. Max Output E3270 80-90psi 50-60 gallon/hr E3211 65-95psi 40 gallon/hr
So the TA pump is way better.
That's aftermarket stuff, I'm using the part numbers from the Delphi site for OE parts and it shows the same part number for both, and that would make a lot of sense given both cars are using the same engine and turbo design. I don't want anything that will not equal or exceed original equipment, I have a pump from Advance in the car now; Mastercraft I believe it is and it's noisy.
Those numbers are tested ranges so you will not know for sure unless both pumps are tested at the same pressure. As I mentioned before, Delphi shows the same pump for both cars but they have specs listed for each at different pressures in the same manner that horsepower numbers for the Fiero are listed at different RPM given the impression one year model is more powerful than the other although the engines are the same.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 08-22-2007).]
hey folks i just glanced thru this thread, my L67 fiero is having pump issues i beleive, it goes way lean at WOT i the swap has about 4K miles on it and when the swap was done the pump is suposidly a grand dational one, i dont know what brand it is, but im going to be replacing it and was thinking of the walbro 255?? where should i buy it and what else is needed for it to work in the fiero? will it come with a plug that i can splice into the fiero wores if needed? who has the best prices and what should i buy?
my mods are : cam, 3.0 pully ported heads, larger valves, ( i think the heads are stage 2 or 3 from intense,) still running stock injectors, but i have a stage 2 intercooler thats a start for the mods
I got the setup that LFiero67 describes earlier in this thread. www.racetronics.com . It was an easy plug and play install. But for your setup i'd look into bigger injectors also.
hey folks i just glanced thru this thread, my L67 fiero is having pump issues i beleive, it goes way lean at WOT i the swap has about 4K miles on it and when the swap was done the pump is suposidly a grand dational one, i dont know what brand it is, but im going to be replacing it and was thinking of the walbro 255?? where should i buy it and what else is needed for it to work in the fiero? will it come with a plug that i can splice into the fiero wores if needed? who has the best prices and what should i buy?
my mods are : cam, 3.0 pully ported heads, larger valves, ( i think the heads are stage 2 or 3 from intense,) still running stock injectors, but i have a stage 2 intercooler thats a start for the mods
any help is appreaciated
I dont think your problem is in the fuel pump but maybe the injectors or your tune. I would lean more torward the tune that the car is running. What do your LTFTs/O2s look like when running WOT. You need to scan the car to find out and maybe hit a dyno with a wideband to get a true reading.
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12:20 AM
$Rich$ Member
Posts: 14575 From: Sioux Falls SD Registered: Dec 2002
That scan does not say much of anything.... The narrowband was reading LEANER THAN 14.7 for most the run, didnt know that was even possible. Knock was random, and didnt really seem to be a huge problem. You didnt have IPW's on there, so we have no clue what your injectors are doing. you didnt have LTFT's on so we cant make dumb guesses as to what is going on there. I would talk to Jcon about obd1 tuning, he seems to have that on lockdown right now.
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10:13 AM
$Rich$ Member
Posts: 14575 From: Sioux Falls SD Registered: Dec 2002
That scan does not say much of anything.... The narrowband was reading LEANER THAN 14.7 for most the run, didnt know that was even possible. Knock was random, and didnt really seem to be a huge problem. You didnt have IPW's on there, so we have no clue what your injectors are doing. you didnt have LTFT's on so we cant make dumb guesses as to what is going on there. I would talk to Jcon about obd1 tuning, he seems to have that on lockdown right now.
I am going to check fuel pressure this weekend hopfully
that is a good price, but you need to take into account piece of mind knowing you put a quality product in your car ive never heard of that brand, you figure, it would be worth your time and effort down the road to NOT to have to buy another pump and swap it out again, just because you try'd to save a few $$ and went with a no-name brand
where are you getting the Turbo Trans Am pump for 75 dollars? I got mine from GM and it was 120? I'll sell it with the screen for 80 bucks. Never used.
I said I would post after fixing my fuel delivery problem with Car 1 from my previous post so here goes.
Removed Vette pump and installed Walbro 255LPH pump. Started car and fuel pressure was running at 80psi. Way too high. Took car for a ride and at WOT pressure would drop to a low of approximately 65psi. This is still too high, but at least I now knew that this pump is more than capable of meeting the demands of a 3800SC motor (Vette pump could only maintain 48-50psi at WOT). But wait, there's more! Why is the pressure so ridiculously high? I applied vacuum and positive pressure to the fuel pressure regulator and neither made any difference in fuel pressure (vacuum should decrease pressure and boost should increase fuel pressure). So, I pulled the rail out of the car and removed the fuel pressure regulator only to find a clogged return line (pump was basically "dead-heading"). Removed clog, blew out all lines, and reinstalled rail assembly. Pressure is now 43psi at idle and will increase to a maximum of 56-58psi at WOT. This is totally normal. Car now runs smooth and pulls harder than before all the way to redline. And, I know that the pump has plenty of capacity in reserve. One thing to note, replacing the pump didn't cure my breaking-up issues. That was resolved after swapping in the ZZP1.0 PCM. Either there was something wrong with the computer I received with my engine, or the CAM needs computer reprogramming. Replacing the fuel pump in my case was, however, necessary as the Vette pump was not adequate. This is only my experience with one Vette pump. Others have had success and I wish I had to as it would have saved me $110 plus the time to swap it out. But, now I know I'm safe. Oh yeah, and as far as noise. When the pump was "dead-heading" it was whisper quiet. Now that it is operating normal, I can hear the pump running. But, it's not that bad at all. 99% of the time I think I just zone it out due to other noises. I mean I don't even remember if I heard it running when I raced the car on the weekend.
Hope this helps out a little.
[This message has been edited by L.I. Fieros (edited 08-29-2007).]
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04:24 PM
Dennis LaGrua Member
Posts: 15528 From: Hillsborough, NJ U.S.A. Registered: May 2000
The 255GPH high pressure version? That's the pump that I decided to use on my 3800SC. Figured that more reserve fuel pressure and capacity would be a good foundation for future modifications. I used the Vette EP376 Delco pump on my turbo 3.4L and it did keep up with all the fuel demands of that engine. Loyde at FastFieros claims that he's used this pump many times for 3800SC installs without problems and posts evidence to suggest that it is entirely adequate for the 3800SC. Having not tried the Vette pump on a 3800SC I cannot attest to it's value for that engine but the data on Loydes website seems convincing.
------------------ 87GT 3.4 Turbo- 0-60 5.2 seconds 2006 3800SC Series III swap in progress Engine Controls, PCM goodies, re-programming & odd electronics stuff " I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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05:02 PM
darkhorizon Member
Posts: 12279 From: Flint Michigan Registered: Jan 2006
The 255GPH high pressure version? That's the pump that I decided to use on my 3800SC. Figured that more reserve fuel pressure and capacity would be a good foundation for future modifications. I used the Vette EP376 Delco pump on my turbo 3.4L and it did keep up with all the fuel demands of that engine. Loyde at FastFieros claims that he's used this pump many times for 3800SC installs without problems and posts evidence to suggest that it is entirely adequate for the 3800SC. Having not tried the Vette pump on a 3800SC I cannot attest to it's value for that engine but the data on Loydes website seems convincing.
Loyde also neglects to mention failures he has, I imagine it has somthing to do with trying to keep a reputation, when his reviews from most anyone that has dealt with him was bad.
The pump I like is the TRE pump, its cheap, simple to install, comes with everything, and made in china! (not kid friendly, use caution)
How can you say its not proven? I run the pump and have been for over a year in my modded 3800 car. I never go lean even at 6200 WOT shifts. So how have you proven that it doesnt work? Have any data sheets, dyno runs showing it runs lean, anything?
I said I would post after fixing my fuel delivery problem with Car 1 from my previous post so here goes.
Removed Vette pump and installed Walbro 255LPH pump. Started car and fuel pressure was running at 80psi. Way too high. Took car for a ride and at WOT pressure would drop to a low of approximately 65psi. This is still too high, but at least I now knew that this pump is more than capable of meeting the demands of a 3800SC motor (Vette pump could only maintain 48-50psi at WOT). But wait, there's more! Why is the pressure so ridiculously high? I applied vacuum and positive pressure to the fuel pressure regulator and neither made any difference in fuel pressure (vacuum should decrease pressure and boost should increase fuel pressure). So, I pulled the rail out of the car and removed the fuel pressure regulator only to find a clogged return line (pump was basically "dead-heading"). Removed clog, blew out all lines, and reinstalled rail assembly. Pressure is now 43psi at idle and will increase to a maximum of 56-58psi at WOT. This is totally normal. Car now runs smooth and pulls harder than before all the way to redline. And, I know that the pump has plenty of capacity in reserve. One thing to note, replacing the pump didn't cure my breaking-up issues. That was resolved after swapping in the ZZP1.0 PCM. Either there was something wrong with the computer I received with my engine, or the CAM needs computer reprogramming. Replacing the fuel pump in my case was, however, necessary as the Vette pump was not adequate. This is only my experience with one Vette pump. Others have had success and I wish I had to as it would have saved me $110 plus the time to swap it out. But, now I know I'm safe. Oh yeah, and as far as noise. When the pump was "dead-heading" it was whisper quiet. Now that it is operating normal, I can hear the pump running. But, it's not that bad at all. 99% of the time I think I just zone it out due to other noises. I mean I don't even remember if I heard it running when I raced the car on the weekend.
Hope this helps out a little.
Not calling you out or anything--But I dont see how anything can be taken from the results you got being the fuel system was not functioning correctly. To really get accurate results from both fuel pumps, you would need to install the other pump back in and see what it does.
On another note--You wanna sell that Vette pump cheap?
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11:21 PM
Aug 30th, 2007
L.I. Fieros Member
Posts: 575 From: Long Island, N.Y. Registered: Feb 2000
I wouldn't take that as calling me out. It's a perfectly valid point. From a scientific data point of view I should start over and only change one variable. But there's no way I'm pulling the tank and doing that. Was the pump operating optimally under the clogged return line condition? Who knows? I'll just have to live with my data and take from it what I can as the final result is good. I would have loved to have been able to test it properly from the get go and post those results, but it turned out I was chasing multiple issues and I was up against a deadline to have the car at the track, which I made and had a blast, but that's a story for another thread.
As for the Vette pump, PM me with what you'd be looking to pay for it. It still has the GM strainer attached as I was able to remove it undamaged. Although I do still have a Fiero here with a stock 2.8 liter. Let me know.
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02:18 PM
darkhorizon Member
Posts: 12279 From: Flint Michigan Registered: Jan 2006
The vette pump has been proven to flow significantly less than walbro's AND gtp pumps...
Thats not what you stated above--You said:
vette pump = not proven to work, >$70
It does work and it has been proven to work in many of swaps out there. Are there better pumps out there, some say there are but everyone has there opinions.
Thats for a w-body, and no its not a HUGE deal in a fiero considering the wiring is much shorter than on the GTP's. Darthfiero has a rewire schematic around here somewhere, and its not hard to figure out with a diagram.
Lucky for us the stock wiring is very large also, its almost like a 12 gauge wire, compared to the 16 or whatever is on the w-body.
