As the title says, I am painting the nose of my Fiero GT, with it off the car. It loses all rigidity, of course, and I have some 'flex' additive for the paint. I am advised to add 10% volume of the flex to the paint. I didnīt add any to the primer, and it seems to be sticking ok....Anybody have an opinion? I have never painted a flexible plastic panel before, and donīt want to ruin the whole job for the sake of not doing it properly!!
Thanks for any advice, which will be appreciated!!
Nick

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Hey nick I think I read a while back where Roger said the additive was for protection during the install of the part.I also heard of guys not usining the additive and never having any problems.

Jim

Let us know how it turns out. I used straight automotive urethane with no problems.

Arn

The flex agent is needed in certain types of paint. If you were told to add it to the type of paint you are using, then I'd add it. I use PPG Deltron Urethane paints and I do not use any flex in the paint as the paint itself is very flexible. Follow the instructions for your type of paint.

Mark

quote Originally posted by Arns85GT: Let us know how it turns out. I used straight automotive urethane with no problems. Arn

This is the way I went also. I use the laquier primer under the Urethane

Thanks everybody! I am using Sikkens 2 pack..the Vendor told me that I donīt need the flex additive in the base colour, or primer,but I should use it in the clear lacquer. Well, it has been too windy today to attempt any spraying proper, so I have experimented with two test parts..an old nose!! Sprayed the most flexible parts one each...one with flex, and one without. I will give it 24 hours to dry at around 65 degrees, and then give it a good ol' flexing!! We shall see, what we shall see
Nick
Nice finish with these paints this is done in my dirty ol' workshop :

quote Originally posted by fierofetish: Thanks everybody! I am using Sikkens 2 pack..the Vendor told me that I donīt need the flex additive in the base colour, or primer,but I should use it in the clear lacquer. Well, it has been too windy today to attempt any spraying proper, so I have experimented with two test parts..an old nose!! Sprayed the most flexible parts one each...one with flex, and one without. I will give it 24 hours to dry at around 65 degrees, and then give it a good ol' flexing!! We shall see, what we shall see Nick Nice finish with these paints this is done in my dirty ol' workshop :

Sikkens is the best IMO. Paint takes about a month to fully cure. I hope you're not using clear laquer, though. I also hope you are using epoxy primer. The job is not worth doing without it, as it won't last near as long.
As for the flex: It's not needed in most of todays urethanes, but it dosen't hurt & in fact can make the nose more chip resistent. Go ahead & use it.
BTW I've been doing custom paint for nearly 40 years...
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: Sikkens is the best IMO. Paint takes about a month to fully cure. I hope you're not using clear laquer, though. I also hope you are using epoxy primer. The job is not worth doing without it, as it won't last near as long. As for the flex: It's not needed in most of todays urethanes, but it dosen't hurt & in fact can make the nose more chip resistent. Go ahead & use it. BTW I've been doing custom paint for nearly 40 years... ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"

Thanks for the tips Paul!! great stuff. Yes, I am using epoxy primer Found out the hard way years ago, when I sprayed my 79 Camaro...on the biggest hood I could ever pick to mess up !! Hehe!! Sprayed the whole thing perfectly..pleased as anything!! Until the morning I left the heaters on to prevent blooming...but I neednīt have bothered!! The whole of one side of
the hood was wrinkled.....just like that 'crackle-finish' you could put on the old steel dashboards! . Took hours and hours to just get back to square ONE!!!
Nick

OK, sprayed the nose, without flex additive. Looks OK so far!! I tried it on an old nose first, and it didnīt crack or flake even when I bent it really hard..so here's hoping !

Nick

Nice job Nick some bright almost got me blinded
I can see some of you on that bumper reflecting away a bit I think

[This message has been edited by Newbfiero (edited 01-23-2008).]

Hahahahaaaaaaaaaaaaa!! Thanks Rob!! Wow!! LUUURVE THOSE GLASSES!!!
Nick

quote Originally posted by fierofetish: I tried it on an old nose first, and it didnīt crack or flake even when I bent it really hard..so here's hoping ! Nick

But did you give it 30 days to fully cure? Not a real test if you don't. I'm sure you'll be OK, though.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

obviously not !! But I did leave the 1000 watt infra.reds on it over night to 'cook it' Joking apart , I think the Sikkens did the job..I donīt intend bending any of my panels enough whilst driving her to prove that or not!!
Nick

[This message has been edited by fierofetish (edited 01-24-2008).]

Just don't bump anything. Like I said, I'm sure you'll be OK. Sikkens is hard to beat. 'Spensive, though. I usually spend $1,000 to $1,200 on primer & paint for a paintjob.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Flex Additive is actually not needed anymore due to most (except low cost) paint companies have reformulated their products to be flexible a few years ago. This, simply is due to the multiple plastic parts on vehicles now days. Also Flex Add only stays in the paint for a short time, then evaporates. It was only designed to allow the paint to flex (a small amount) long enough for the part to be installed. This information came to me straight from the PPG Company in KS.

quote Originally posted by Stratplayer: Flex Additive is actually not needed anymore due to most (except low cost) paint companies have reformulated their products to be flexible a few years ago. This, simply is due to the multiple plastic parts on vehicles now days. Also Flex Add only stays in the paint for a short time, then evaporates. It was only designed to allow the paint to flex (a small amount) long enough for the part to be installed. This information came to me straight from the PPG Company in KS.

What he said. The flex was primarily made for old style laquer paint like GM used on everything. Since I prefer installing panels before painting (after trimming the edges in), i really didnt have much use for it anyway. I had many a GTO crack after a bump no matter what you did to it. Now if I read your other thread right, you are using laquer clear and it might be a good idea. I use laquer primer myself under everything.

JFI, I did a car panel with red oxide laquer and another with gray laquer primer for a test. I used basecoat color and urathane clear. After a month exposed outside the panel with red oxide is fine with absolutely no problem. The other panel, shot at the same time together with red one, could have the base color and clear shaved right off with a single edge razor, right to the primer surface again. Paint companies have argued with me about the diff between red and gray primer that they are the same, but obviously something in its adhesion properties IS different. Id guess ships using red oxide paint below the water line has some basis for the same reason.

adding flex to the paint isn't a problem, in fact every car i paint i add fles to the paint, it will make the paint flow even smoother. IMO sikkens is the best paint, it costs a little more but actually goes furthur. I've used Dupont befor and to me our only paying for the name.

as for the primer use the proper prep and primer for the panels, on my '04 ford 1/2 ton i addena a stillen body kit and used a special primer for the bare urathanne pieces. Been running that for about 8 months now and holding out excepionally well. i just finished an 85 200x 3wheeler panels and they have flex in the paint, plain ole acrylic enamel at that.

later
jimmyb.

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You may or may not need the flex depending on your paint, but if you have it, use it. Everybody does something stupid once in a while, or lets their wife drive the car. Having flex wont hurt the paint, but it will give you a little insurance for those mishaps. I would feel more comfortable knowing that I had flex than worrying everytime your car is in a parking lot, or at the shop, or just generally around people. Now I wish the person that painted my car put flex on it.

-JOE

Thanks everybody...and welcome joesfiero!! I have painted the nose without the flex..the Sikkens Rep said I donīt need it..because if the nose flexes that much, nothing would stop it coming off and cracking! I have mounted it to the car, and it is still perfect.The lacquer is better than clearcoat..but I have only enough left for this car...and then it is all gone!! Will have to find something as good..I know there is a place in the UK that still sells it.
Nick