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Bench bleed clutch master cylinder? by trevorjay71
Started on: 01-27-2008 01:08 PM
Replies: 8
Last post by: trevorjay71 on 01-28-2008 11:21 PM
trevorjay71
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Report this Post01-27-2008 01:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for trevorjay71Send a Private Message to trevorjay71Direct Link to This Post
I just purchased a new clutch master cylinder for my 87 GT, because I pulled back the carpet on the driver side and could see where fluid had leaked down the floor board. The part came with no instructions, so I was wondering if they are supposed to be bench bled just like a brake master cylinder. Brake master cylinders I have purchased in the past came with plastic nipples and instructions on how to bench bleed them, so I was suprised when this came with nothing. Any help would be appreciated.
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Report this Post01-27-2008 06:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Direct Link to This Post
I thought the slave cylinder (clutch master cylinder) had a bleader valve on it,I thought you sort of blead it like you would the brakes,except you would pump the clutch pedal (and remove the cover on the master cylinder,so the fluid will flow).Two people are needed.I did have an 84 stick,but Ive never done that befor.
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trevorjay71
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Report this Post01-27-2008 10:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for trevorjay71Send a Private Message to trevorjay71Direct Link to This Post
The one I have doesn't have a bleeder screw on it, just a resevoir, the rod that connects to the clutch pedal and a threaded hole for the fluid line that goes back to the trans. I've had brake master cylinders that I've had to bench bleed for 5 minutes or more to get all the air out, I don't see why the clutch master cylinder wouldn't have a lot of air in it as well. I'm wondering if it was supposed to come with some kind of instructions.
Has anyone replaced their's and if so did you bench bleed it? Did it work ok if not?
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Blacktree
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Report this Post01-27-2008 11:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeDirect Link to This Post
When I did my auto to manual swap, I had to install the entire clutch hydraulic system. I didn't bench bleed the master cylinder. Instead, I attached a one-man bleeder kit to the slave cylinder (basically just a cup with a hose), and bled the system until the air bubbles stopped.

Hey, it worked. And my clutch works perfectly. I'm not sure if that's the official method, though. So I'm going to add the "your mileage may vary" disclaimer, just in case.
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ray b
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Report this Post01-27-2008 11:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ray bSend a Private Message to ray bDirect Link to This Post
no brake master cyl has a bleeder on it [that I have seen]
you just use a fitting on the normal out line and short clear hose
to loop back to the rez
and pump intill no bubbles are seen

I would next fill the clutch master to slave line then attach the slave
that will require a finger tip on the line to prevent the fluid from getting out
and a quick hook up
then bleed the slave it's self
start with less air to bleed by filling the master and line
and make the whole job a little eazyer

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NickD3.4
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Report this Post01-28-2008 04:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NickD3.4Send a Private Message to NickD3.4Direct Link to This Post
It's pretty easy. The nipple is on the Slave cylinder, you need to get a piece of CLEAR hose for the nipple that fits. Open the master clutch cylinder resevoure to release the pressure. Then have some one push the clutch pedal in and hold it. While they hold it, turn the nipple releasing the fluid into a cup or something. Once the fluid slows, close the nipple and have them release the clutch. Make sure to check the resevoure fluid level and keep it topped off, if you let it go too low, it will suck air into the system. repeat this until NO air bubbles can be seen coming out of the nipple, and the fluid is clean looking. Tighten the nipple Top off the resevoure. Your done!
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Steven Snyder
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Report this Post01-28-2008 05:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Steven SnyderClick Here to visit Steven Snyder's HomePageSend a Private Message to Steven SnyderDirect Link to This Post
This is very important: do NOT use the full stroke of the master cylinder when bench bleeding. They say it in the directions for bench bleeding and installation, but its not apparent why until you do it... you will invert and ruin the seal. I'm not sure why it happens; it must have something to do with the bore design. I didn't heed the warning in the instructions once and the seal got inverted but I was able to flip it back after taking it apart. It worked fine, but on another one I did it again and the seal was destroyed; it wouldn't hold its shape anymore.
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Francis T
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Report this Post01-28-2008 10:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Francis TClick Here to visit Francis T's HomePageSend a Private Message to Francis TDirect Link to This Post
Since its a clutch bleeding post, I thought Id throw this out there, jsut did it a few days ago:

I thought I my clutch bled good with the 'lift the front gravity method', alas nit. So I made this pressure system and it worked great. I can now disenage fully the clutch way before it gets near the floor board and still have maybe a 1/2" of free-play at the top. With the slave bleeder open and a hose from it into a jar of fluid I then filled the aux resevoir [plastic bottle] and let it fill the main resivoir venting that one with the extra fitting on the cap and then plugged with that tool of many uses a golf T. Added about 10lbs of air [presure to the top of bottle and flashed out the system along with the air. Over-kill, Rub Goldberg, perhaps but it works great and is quick to do.

[imgtp://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s16/writerfrank/000_0433.jpg[/img]

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trevorjay71
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Report this Post01-28-2008 11:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for trevorjay71Send a Private Message to trevorjay71Direct Link to This Post
Thanks for all the responses.
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