OK, I finally worked up a quick proto-type for the lower half of the alternator mount in Billet. I initially designed this from steel but this looks much better and is stronger as well. There are still a few minor kinks that need to be worked out as this is my first proto-type. I received the first round of quotes today from the machine shop for a billet upper and steel lower and the price is very reasonable, however; for a billet upper and billet lower it will be more. I will also be polishing mine to a mirror finish then adding a clear powder coat.
I almost forgot. I also made another billet adapter to make the Bonneville/Park ave/ anything other than the GTP coil pack pulley bracket work in our cars. Notice the outside pulley barley extends past the valve cover. I got tired of fighting with the guys in the junk yard who wouldn't let me pull the GTP bracket off a complete motor.
[This message has been edited by anwalker (edited 06-06-2008).]
I haven't got the price on the coil bracket setup yet but I will send those out on Monday. To get the Alt. mount with the steel lower will probably run around $50.00 . I didn't have the billet lower section quoted yet. I am guessing the coil relo bracket will be between $40.00-$50.00 with the steel spacer for the head. Keep in mind its just a guess based on the other parts and could be cheaper but I doubt any more expensive.
The lower bracket is not machined but soft tooled from .125" CRS and will work on manual transaxles and automatics alike with no clearance issues
My manual transmission doesnt have a differential cover to bolt to over there.
[tinder for flames]
I really dont think that lower mount part will work the way you think it will, My friend that did the manual swap, was convinced that he knew more about mounting alternators than I do, so he mounted his 98 alternator in 2 places, much like you did, and the results involved throwing an alternator near through his decklid.
The side load that mount will see is much more than your mount is designed to handle... If anything the 3/4 inch thick stuff might save it...... but it seems like a bad bandaid for a bad design to begin with.
[/tinder for flames]
i will say that bonne bracket is a decent idea... I dont know if you know this or not, but it offers superior belt wrap compared to the w-body bracket. I honestly would suggest someone to buy them if you do end up making them, it is a good idea.
[This message has been edited by darkhorizon (edited 06-07-2008).]
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11:46 PM
Jun 7th, 2008
KEV Member
Posts: 2590 From: Green Isle, MN Registered: Dec 2000
My manual transmission doesnt have a differential cover to bolt to over there.
[tinder for flames]
I really dont think that lower mount part will work the way you think it will, My friend that did the manual swap, was convinced that he knew more about mounting alternators than I do, so he mounted his 98 alternator in 2 places, much like you did, and the results involved throwing an alternator near through his decklid.
The side load that mount will see is much more than your mount is designed to handle... If anything the 3/4 inch thick stuff might save it...... but it seems like a bad bandaid for a bad design to begin with.
[/tinder for flames]
i will say that bonne bracket is a decent idea... I dont know if you know this or not, but it offers superior belt wrap compared to the w-body bracket. I honestly would suggest someone to buy them if you do end up making them, it is a good idea.
[/QUOT
Don't you have something better to do but bag on this guys stuff. I get the feeling after reading what you post you think your the "3800 God" hate to tell you this your far from it.
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01:36 AM
Chris Hodson Member
Posts: 3093 From: Carpentersville Registered: Aug 2006
Don't you have something better to do but bag on this guys stuff. I get the feeling after reading what you post you think your the "3800 God" hate to tell you this your far from it.
I share Darks concern. Both his simple mounting technique and mine are very similar- they both firmly mount the alternator in the front and also at a dedicated rear point. With the setup shown here, one bracket is called upon to handle the front and rear stresses. While the alternator mount shown here is neat looking, I also say that it won't work long term and I'm not bagging on this guys work-just trying to make a point. Firm mounting points at the front , bottom and rear will make for a secure alternator mounting.
------------------ 87GT - 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles 87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H " I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Regarding the strength of the alt. bracket...my dad has the simple mount that you guys describe and I have had the opportunity to play with both and I can tell you that I have no conconcerns with my mount. I can pull my complete motor tranny around on the engine stand by pulling on the alternator with no slop. Just for giggles I can double the strength of the mount by sandwiching the top mounting hole between two plates using spacers back to the block...didnt see the need though.
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07:08 AM
darkhorizon Member
Posts: 12279 From: Flint Michigan Registered: Jan 2006
None of us ever said you had a weak mount, I am sure it will hold it in there without any issue. The problem is you are not mounting something in 2 dimentions, but 3, which means you have to hold the back side.
Without that, you will have the alternator vibrating, and eventually the cheapo alum they use to make the castings will just break and your alternator will go flying. I have seen it personally.
