I forgot to mention, last night I noticed that fuel was coming out of the bottom O-ring on injector #3, after removing the rail and cleaning up the holes and lubing the rings and re-installing them. I had forgotten to plug in #3 and #5, and the car started. When I plugged them back in, the car went back to its no running streak that its had the past couple days..

The following is "from" a post from ClubGP about the schrader valve to connect a fuel pressure gauge with 1/8" male threads.

Information corrected see this link:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/094065.html

[This message has been edited by Bubbajuju (edited 08-13-2008).]

quote Originally posted by Bubbajuju: The following is a post from ClubGP about the schrader valve to connect a fuel pressure gauge with 1/4" male threads. http://www.summitracing.com/ # EAR-916104ERL (-4 Female to 1/8) http://store.summitracing.c...&Ntt=ear%2D916104erl # EAR-991001ERL (1/8 NPT Coupling) http://store.summitracing.c...&Ntt=EAR%2D991001ERL # SUM-800199 (Fuel Gauge) http://store.summitracing.c...rch&Ntt=SUM%2D800199

no thats a link to summit racing :P

I'll go fix that!
I just edited it to say 1/8" male threads as well.

what part on the car is -4 AN?

[This message has been edited by Matthew_Fiero (edited 08-11-2008).]

What fuel pump do you have installed?

EP375 Delco Vette pump

I don't know anything about that pump but I was told to use a 1989 Turbo Trans Am pump. I haven't had any fuel pressure problems with it.

Are you positive you have the plug wires in the right firing order?

I installed a 255LPH walbro high pressure pump

quote Originally posted by Matthew_Fiero: what part on the car is -4 AN?

The schrader valve.

Chances are pretty good it is the pump I only once used a Vette pump on a swap as the customer supplied it and the engine ran like crap couldn't keep it running half the time and when it did run it ran so lean it was scarry. Dan

quote Originally posted by doublec4: I installed a 255LPH walbro high pressure pump

did you? Or did you have someone else do it?

because your v6 use's more fuel under a load. you have to run a boosted car with a lower afr then a n/a car. i use a bosche 044 pump. 300+LPH@70psi. i think it's the best pump on the market. i'm not sure about your pump either. what year car was it supposed to go in?

quote Originally posted by Matthew_Fiero: I hear tons of people use the vette pump.. after all, if it can run a 350 under load, why can it not run a smaller motor under idle?

I run the Vette pump and have been for 4 years or so. I run a modded motor and have never ran into a lean condtion because of the pump. I actually run on the fat side with the tune I have now. Car has been to the track, ran all out and still no lean condition. Alot of problems people run into on swaps are human error but others things get the blame.

quote Originally posted by MstangsBware: I run the Vette pump and have been for 4 years or so. I run a modded motor and have never ran into a lean condtion because of the pump. I actually run on the fat side with the tune I have now. Car has been to the track, ran all out and still no lean condition. Alot of problems people run into on swaps are human error but others things get the blame.

thank you

You would have had this problem fixed if you would use the correct tools.

A fuel pressure gauge, and a scan tool that reads obd2 data would be an instant correct diagnosis.

Yes but as stated, OBDII scanners would only pick up data if a code is thrown, I can't keep the motor running long enough to throw a code

Can someone please tell me what fitting the valve is on the fuel rail so I can save up a couple hundred for a fuel pressure gauge?

[This message has been edited by Matthew_Fiero (edited 08-11-2008).]

quote Originally posted by darkhorizon: You would have had this problem fixed if you would use the correct tools. A fuel pressure gauge, and a scan tool that reads obd2 data would be an instant correct diagnosis.

I understand, but remember, with a new fuel pump, new lines, new rail, new regulator, I would NOT know how to increase fuel pressure.

You dont have your supply/return lines crossed by chance. I havent read all of this Thread but just a thought since you say you have everything new. Also have you pulled the tank to double check that the pump hasnt fallen off the sender?

harbor freight sells fuel pressure gauges for $10-15, I think autozone rents them for free.

autotap would be a perfect tool for you to have and those could be had for around 100.

Could someone please tell me what fitting the valve is on the fuel rail so I can save up for one? I want to permanently mount one on the fuel rail. Not sure exactly which ones will fit, but this one seems ok?
http://mustang.c-f-m.com/in...D=983&MMP=1014292753
Fuel lines crossed? Maybbbe.. I have the fuel from the tank going to one side while the return is directly after the regulator, as I understand it, the regulator bleeds off what it doesn't need.

[This message has been edited by Matthew_Fiero (edited 08-12-2008).]

I dont usually like the idea of making a full time fuel pressure gauge, but if you want to more power to ya.

Basically, the fuel rail setup you mentioned is right, large feed line goes to the rail, and the return goes to the small side of the regulator sorta.

Got it running for a bit today, chugged with a P0300 Multiple Cyl Misfire code. I downloaded the info and yet again.. no freeze frame data, I still get all the default data...

quote Originally posted by Matthew_Fiero: Got it running for a bit today, chugged with a P0300 Multiple Cyl Misfire code. I downloaded the info and yet again.. no freeze frame data, I still get all the default data...

Any chance your plug wires are scrambled on the coil pack? That is, are your plugs wired correctly?

quote Originally posted by D2inDFW: Any chance your plug wires are scrambled on the coil pack? That is, are your plugs wired correctly?

This is what it is sounding like. Double check your wires going to the coil and then check them again. The numbers on the coils will confuse you and make sure you have the coils in the correct order. I am willing to bet it is somthing simple.

I know it sounds stupid, but I literally double check it every single time I go to the garage.

First I check the wires, then I check all pcm connections

[This message has been edited by Matthew_Fiero (edited 08-12-2008).]

quote Originally posted by Matthew_Fiero: I know it sounds stupid, but I literally double check it every single time I go to the garage. First I check the wires, then I check all pcm connections

Use the picture on Page 2 of this Thread to check the order of your wires. I know you have looked over and over but one more time. Also do you have the ground on the ICM harness grounded to a good solid ground?

I have it grounded to the shorter (new bolt and starter) starter bolt, tight

quote Originally posted by Matthew_Fiero: I have it grounded to the shorter (new bolt and starter) starter bolt, tight

Not the best ground to be using but not saying that is the problem. When I had my coil pack low, I grounded it to the block.

quote Originally posted by MstangsBware: Not the best ground to be using but not saying that is the problem. When I had my coil pack low, I grounded it to the block.

The other starter bolt has a rather thick SS braided cable that is grounded to the chassis

I most likely have a buyer if you need to sell it fast.

I'll be parting it out, selling a car with a defective motor would lose me 1000's

what is the possibility that you plugged all the ignition wires in backwards? maybe you got thrown off due to looking at the engine from the "other" side than you would normally. i can't think of how many times i've done simple things like that backwards due to temporary dislexia.

Before you sell it, do your self a favor, get a professional mechanic to trouble shoot it for you. It is a small problem, I will bet.