Anyone every use one of those store bought cylinder honing tools that you attach to your drill? My block, 3.4, has around 60K miles, and I am installing new rings.

I did, and the results weren't pretty. I think I didn't get enough lubricant on the cylinders. The machine shop said they could fix it.

Was it a good three stone long hone.
A cheapy and especially a two stone will never do it..
Sorry to hear it messed up the cyl.s

Plain and simply,,dont go cheap on things like that..

Take to a GOOD machine shop,,,

Been using a 3 stone hone for 40 years, spin 1 direction while moving up & down, then put the drill in reverse & do the same thing (for crosshatch) hardly rocket science. just make sure the stones don't run dry & get "gummy", keep them lubed while honing.

quote Originally posted by Lou6t4gto: Been using a 3 stone hone for 40 years, spin 1 direction while moving up & down, then put the drill in reverse & do the same thing (for crosshatch) hardly rocket science. just make sure the stones don't run dry & get "gummy", keep them lubed while honing.

Ya, they sell these tools for a reason

I hear the Lyle 3 hone version is pretty damn good, we sell them at my work and never once got one back

I've seen the tool, typically sales anywhere from $15 to $35 dollars. So what is the consensus here, some say its easy others say dont do it.?

quote Originally posted by RotrexFiero: So what is the consensus here, some say its easy others say dont do it.?

Honing cylinders (actually it is really glaze breaking, true honing is not something that can be done at home) is a thing of the past. Historicly, you would remove the shiney glaze off aof the bore before reinstalling the pistons with new rings. Modern metals and more precise machining have changed a lot in recent years. Currently, you should not de-glaze cylinders. You do far more damage than good.

Old beliefs die hard though, and many people do not understand modern engines. Many still do this and usually never know that they are damaging the engine. The damage is not severe, just shortens the life of the rebuild.

The secrete to honing a cylinder is the ring ridge if you have a pronounced one it is machine shop time.if you research this you will be able to create a nice cross hatch pattern.. the old cylinders were harder to work with because the carb washed the top lube off ..the injectors are FAR superior to the carb engine,, the cylinder is not concentric any more but you can do a good cross hatch hone job with little experience .. I have cross hatched cylinders with sandpaper..with a digleberry hone.. the important thing is that there is not excess clearence between the piston and bore,, and extra special cleaning of the residue from the piston bore walls.. If your present engine has remnants of the cross hatch hone leave it alone,check for ring ridge you can remove a slight ring ridge with sand paper ,, This post is based on my many years as a motorcycle mechanic,service manager and posing as an auto mechanic
you must clean the cylinder bore untill ,not, none, nada ,residue is left on a clean white rag with just a little oil on it
Use a ring compressor to install ringed piston in bore.. press in from the top each piston will have about the same resistence as it is pulled down,,use the piston to press rings equally in bore so you can check and gap install piston pins exactly as recommended in manual clean block as good as you can clean clean you can heat the garden hose in the sun for hot water ,,a few seconds then heat again use tooth brush and gun bore brushes (clean youe wifes toothbrush carefully so she does not know you used it)
you can make a ring compressor from a piece of sheet metal and a worm clamp.. I used a plastic soda bottle once..(do not do this) when install rings on piston ,,do one piston and then let fingers rest so you do not break rings install piston in original holes

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 08-09-2008).]

I have been rebuilding SBC's for 30 years. The wear of the cylinder will dictate how much "machine" work will be requierd. I have used the "ball" style glaze breaker in conjunction with a 3 stone "hone". You can also purchase from snap on, matco, etc a "ridge" reamer that work very well.

I have seen engines with 150K need a simple glaze break ( you need to break the glaze and have a good cross hatch for new ring sealing) and I have seen engines with 20K require a bore job. First things first, mic the bores and determine the "out of round". Not sure of the specs for your specific engine but a good motor manual will give you all the numbers you need from min to max and will help you determine what you will need. If you have a local machine shop that you can trust, they will most likely do a check with mics for you and give you honest suggestions.

I have rebuilt multiple SBC's for normal street use all the way to full tilt drag motors simply breaking the glaze and putting a clean cross hatch hone in the cylinders and have had very good luck with them. On the other hand, I have also spent big dollars on "go fast" machine work and smoked the motor in the first pass. You do not always have to go the modern way. Many times, the "old school" way works as well or better.

Here's an example:

When I was 15, I bought my first truck - 1953 Chevy with a straight six and 3 spun rod bearings. The first thing I did was take it to my Dad's house (Dad is an old school model T, Whippet Coupe, type of Mech.) We pulled the pan, in the truck. Pulled all the rod caps, pushed the pistons up into the cylinders, wedged them to the side with blocks of wood. Dad, took some "emory" cloth and wrapped around the rod journal. I sat in the truck and held my foot on the foot starter and spun the motor till the battery went dead. Recharged the battery and did it again and agian till it was where my Dad wanted it. Turned all 6 this way. Back then you could get one thousandth under bearings and I think you still can today. Anyway, we put it back together and long story short, had 50 psi oil pressure and I drove this truck for 7 years with no engine trouble at all. Sold it to a friend and he ran it for 3 more years until he swapped it for a V8. So yes, old school works. Especially if you are on a budget and have the time to do the work yourself. I apologize for rambling but I have a soft spot for those that tackle issues on thier own.

Pat

Edit to add.... Use a good quality hone oil. I use Marvel Mystery Oil in the red can.

[This message has been edited by katatak (edited 08-09-2008).]