Ouch, this bracket relocation thing is uglier than I thought it would be. Anyone have pics and ideas of how they overcame this problem? I have read ohio86se relocation post: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/087761.html But I would appreciate some pics from a bit farther out or any other ideas. Thanks.
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05:07 AM
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Stubby79 Member
Posts: 7064 From: GFY county, FY. Registered: Aug 2008
I am looking for ideas too, for my 3400 swap. My throttle body isn't in the way of the one, like yours, but my crossover pipe is in the way of the other just the same. I'm thinking of makign a bracket to mount it an inch higher and adding a slight curve to those last 3" of rigid cable casing so the cable comes out in the same place as it use to.
Edit: Looking closer at the pics you found a link to, it looks like its a solid bar coming through the end of the cable casing, not just flexable cabling. Looks like I have to re-think that idea...his way doesnt look too terribly complicated, though.
For swaps using the 4 speeed manual tranny I either redo the crossover pipe to swing lower and clear the linkages or I use a 3.8l Mustang manifold and eliminate the cross over under the throttle body all together. There is a few photos in the link below my sig, the photos are all mixed up so you may have to look for them. Dan
First I found a guy that could weld cast aluminum. then I had him cut off the things that you actually attach both cables to. Next separate the 2. Now move the select cable attachment thingy to where the shift cable attachment thingy was. Turn it slightly so that it still points to where the select lever on the trans is and weld it back on. as you can see in this pic
Next I had him just make me a new shift cable attachment thingy a weld it on to the bracket off to the side of where we just placed the select cable attachment thingy, welding it on at a slight angle that hopefully you can see in this pic or this pic Welding it at an angle tipped down like that is what allowed it to clear my intake tube
This is a pic of my wife sitting in a 2008 Challenger at a local car show. Turns out the owner is an acquaintance of ours. Gorgeous car
Hope this helps and I hope you don't find language like cable attachment thingy too technical I didn't get it right the first time or the second time and maybe not even the third. Fortunately the machine shop that does these little jobs for me only charged me twenty bucks but once you know what works it's easy. I was able to duplicate this easily to use on a N* swap I have been working on.
[This message has been edited by Dave E Bouy (edited 08-17-2008).]
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09:59 PM
hookdonspeed Member
Posts: 7980 From: baltimore, md Registered: May 2008
For swaps using the 4 speeed manual tranny I either redo the crossover pipe to swing lower and clear the linkages or I use a 3.8l Mustang manifold and eliminate the cross over under the throttle body all together. There is a few photos in the link below my sig, the photos are all mixed up so you may have to look for them. Dan
intresting, the mustang manifolds just bolt right up?? what about port shapes and stuff?
Alright, Thanks All. I went with ohio86se idea. So thank you, ohio86se, wherever you are! When Stubby79 sent me to ohio's main thread I saw the farther away pic that made it all make sense. Thanks, Stubby.
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Originally posted by FIEROFLYER: ...There is a few photos in the link below my sig, the photos are all mixed up so you may have to look for them. Dan
Dan, I am always looking at those photos! Now, Dave E Bouy, that was my problem no way to weld cast aluminum. I tried once and it was it a mess. But I sure wish we were neighbors because for some reason I think we would really get along. So here's the results. I took ohio86se's method and ran with it. I flattened down my gate bracket to reach over more. The old gate bracket is now unused. I chopped in half a coupler (2" all thread nut) and welded it together to offset the gate's new distance. (actually I chopped it into 1/3 and 2/3 and kept the 2/3 for attaching the the shifter to and the 1/3 to attach to the gate bracket. (sorry it's late- let me know if this is nonsensical) I will post final pics with the cables attached. And anyway, to make a short story long, I re-invented the wheel. Line of site tells me everything will flow well. Here's the results. Thanks all. I was overwhelmed last night but with some help from the forum, it's all good. Let me know if anyone has questions or if this post just really doesn't make sense.
[This message has been edited by Bubbajuju (edited 08-18-2008).]
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04:49 AM
Aug 21st, 2008
Dave E Bouy Member
Posts: 1465 From: Kettle Point Ontario Canada Registered: Sep 2004
Alright, Thanks All. I went with ohio86se idea. So thank you, ohio86se, wherever you are! When Stubby79 sent me to ohio's main thread I saw the farther away pic that made it all make sense. Thanks, Stubby. Dan, I am always looking at those photos! Now, Dave E Bouy, that was my problem no way to weld cast aluminum. I tried once and it was it a mess. But I sure wish we were neighbors because for some reason I think we would really get along. So here's the results. I took ohio86se's method and ran with it. I flattened down my gate bracket to reach over more. The old gate bracket is now unused. I chopped in half a coupler (2" all thread nut) and welded it together to offset the gate's new distance. (actually I chopped it into 1/3 and 2/3 and kept the 2/3 for attaching the the shifter to and the 1/3 to attach to the gate bracket. (sorry it's late- let me know if this is nonsensical) I will post final pics with the cables attached. And anyway, to make a short story long, I re-invented the wheel. Line of site tells me everything will flow well. Here's the results. Thanks all. I was overwhelmed last night but with some help from the forum, it's all good. Let me know if anyone has questions or if this post just really doesn't make sense.
Here I am in Akron Ohio. I hope everything worked out for you.
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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"
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10:08 PM
ohio86se Member
Posts: 1308 From: akron, ohio, summit Registered: Mar 2002
For swaps using the 4 speeed manual tranny I either redo the crossover pipe to swing lower and clear the linkages or I use a 3.8l Mustang manifold and eliminate the cross over under the throttle body all together. There is a few photos in the link below my sig, the photos are all mixed up so you may have to look for them. Dan
You are correct and exactly what I have going on in my head. There are at least two good reasons to eliminate the crossover from under the TB. 1) Stop the heating up of the TB. 2) Clean up the engine compartment 3) Revert back to the standard linkage/cable routing. 4) Come up with a two in to two out for the muffler exhaust set up.
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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"
[This message has been edited by ohio86se (edited 08-22-2008).]
You might want to add a piece of plate on top overlapping the lever on the transmission to prevent the bracket from rocking and loosening the adjusting nut. I added that piece to the design after a couple of test shifts. Also adding a lock washer and/or loctite or a locking nut is a good idea. Being that the angle is not as direct to the shift linkage as the stock setup was it could cause things to come loose.
Looking GOOD!!!!!!
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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"
[This message has been edited by ohio86se (edited 08-23-2008).]
I'm using the 3.8 mustang headers on my 5 spd swap. There are some things you will have to do to make them bolt up. 1st theres a cast in the block for a bolt on both sides that will have to be trimmed to clear the right by the collector, the center flange needs cut and turned to line bolt holes up, and the 2 outside flanges need the bolt holes egged out. All the ports do line up. IMO none of them seem as difficult as making brackets to clear and you can run duals. I believe when I measured them they had 1 5/8 primaries with a 2 1/2 collector and both have the bungs for 02 sensor. Heres a pic of one of dan's engines as I dont have mine done yet.
[This message has been edited by Dementia (edited 08-23-2008).]
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08:20 AM
ohio86se Member
Posts: 1308 From: akron, ohio, summit Registered: Mar 2002
dan used the mustang manifolds on my swap....no complaints and very pleased with the results...plus they have the ability to support mods and still breath efficiently....tim
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I didn't get it right the first time or the second time and maybe not even the third. Fortunately the machine shop that does these little jobs for me only charged me twenty bucks but once you know what works it's easy. I was able to duplicate this easily to use on a N* swap I have been working on.
