the only thing that makes any sense is: the hex shaft is not long enough to engage the socket in the bottom of the dist gear. OR the dist is not seated all the way down to the block ! & It CAN be pulled out through the dist hole to check the length. Be very interested to see what it was when you finally get it.

quote Originally posted by Lou6t4gto: the only thing that makes any sense is: the hex shaft is not long enough to engage the socket in the bottom of the dist gear. OR the dist is not seated all the way down to the block ! & It CAN be pulled out through the dist hole to check the length. Be very interested to see what it was when you finally get it.

The distributer is defineatly seated all the way down. I've been chatting with jetman and he also believes it's something to do with the shaft so I'm going to try and remove it now. When I re-check for pressure with the ecm and fuel pump fuses removed why do I remove the spark plugs as well? Is there any other way besides removing the plugs like disconnecting one of the coil wires? While I had the plugs out yesterday I replaced them with new ones and I'd rather not remove them again.
Marc

Removing spark plugs allows the engine to spin freely, no compression for the starter to fight against, it saves your starter.

Okay! I got the distributer out again and I may have found the problem! After posting the first pic of the hole on page 1 I thought I may have noticed something down in there but it was dark and I assumed it may be part of the pump. This time I took the pic with a flashlight down in there and take a look


I used my grabby four finger tool and got it out!

Where the heck did this come from and how long has it been there Could it have kept the distributer from seating properly on the new oil pump? It's been down there for sometime because I hadn't removed the distributer for over a year before yesterday so it didn't keep the previous pump from working. So maybe that metal wasn't causing any problems and the prob lies on the shaft? Here's a pic of three different shafts.


The first one on the left is the one that was installed. The one in the middle is the oem pump shaft and the third is to a different HV pump I had for a back-up. Notice they are all the same length. Maybe the HV shafts are a 32nd of an inch longer but I doubt that would matter. What the big difference to me is the rounded grooves in the HV shafts. The one I had installed has the largest amount of rounded groove and it was installed the way it is in the pic. Is it upside down? Does the groove relate to anything?
Marc

[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 08-25-2008).]

Ok, what is it? Was that enough to prevent the distributor from seating all the way down? If your distributor didn't seat all the way down, will we need re-time the engine from scratch?

I'm home today, couldn't make it into work, I'll keep watching this thread.

For clarification,,,,, I usually pull the ECM fuse and fuel pump fuse so there is no chance that the engine will start when I am spinning it to pre-oil an engine.

Edit, fixed picture tags.

[This message has been edited by jetman (edited 08-25-2008).]

quote Originally posted by jetman: Ok, what is it? Was that enough to prevent the distributor from seating all the way down? If your distributor didn't seat all the way down, will we need re-time the engine from scratch? I'm home today, couldn't make it into work, I'll keep watching this thread. For clarification,,,,, I usually pull the ECM fuse and fuel pump fuse so there is no chance that the engine will start when I am spinning it to pre-oil an engine. Edit, fixed picture tags.

The distributer was defineatly seated all the way down. I want to believe that the piece of metal didn't cause an issue because it was seated on the bottom of the hole.
Any clues on these different shafts or should this not be an issue?

[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 08-25-2008).]

quote Originally posted by Gokart: The distributer was defineatly seated all the way down. I want to believe that the piece of metal didn't cause an issue because it was seated on the bottom of the hole. Any clues on these different shafts or should this not be an issue?

It really shouldn't matter but you may wish to go with the hex shaft that was in there as you know it was working. Did you fill your oil filter with oil before you installed it on the engine?

Keeping fingers crossed for you.

quote Originally posted by jetman: It really shouldn't matter but you may wish to go with the hex shaft that was in there as you know it was working. Did you fill your oil filter with oil before you installed it on the engine? Keeping fingers crossed for you.

Yes, it was filled at least 3/4. I'll go with the original shaft and see what happens.
Marc

Curly Howard,,,,"If at first you don't succeed, keep on sucking until you do suck seed."

Happy to help out, we're like a team here, everyone helps each other out on the forum.

Glad that it worked out!

If the shaft was worn "ROUNDED", I'd be taking a good look at the dist gear where it goes into, to see if it too may be worn ! it may do it again to your new shaft ! check it out.

quote Originally posted by Lou6t4gto: If the shaft was worn "ROUNDED", I'd be taking a good look at the dist gear where it goes into, to see if it too may be worn ! it may do it again to your new shaft ! check it out.

No no! The shaft the pump came with is brand new and came that way! For some odd reason?

quote Originally posted by gpchris: hmm how would you do this on a dohc where the head covers the oil drive? Also oil pump primers ads are on the page..

The last three 4age's (which are DOHC) I have built I just pulled the plugs and fuel fuse. No plugs relieves compression and pulling the fuse removes fuel from the chambers. After about 15-20 seconds the oil pressure gauge shows low pressure. Hook everything back up and fire the car up. Packing a thick substance into the oil pump seems a bit counter productive to me. If you have built your engine right you should have lubed all the parts prior, and if you have just replaced the oil pump then the oil passages, journals, bearings, and other little areas will still have oil in them. Oh and for those that explain priming the pump because it has no oil in it, oil pumps work on suction, if they didn't you would have to prime your pump with every oil change.