Do the front brackets need modification in order to support Grand Am brake calipers? I know the fiero rotors need be cut down to accept the rotors, but do the GA calipers fit on with modding anything?

TIA
sparx22

[This message has been edited by sparx22 (edited 09-03-2008).]

No modifications to the caliper brackets are needed. You will need to either trim, or remove, the dust shield behind the rotors (or at least I did or they would rub).

John Stricker

quote Originally posted by sparx22: Do the front brackets need modification in order to support Grand Am brake calipers? I know the fiero rotors need be cut down to accept the rotors, but do the GA calipers fit on with modding anything? TIA sparx22

Ok that's it, I knew there was something.
1992 G A calipers and rotors I believe are the ones.
TY
jim

Yes, you have to mod the front brake caliper brackets. You need to grind down two spots on the bracket, so it doesn't interfere with the rotor. See this thread for details. About 2/3 of the way down the page, I have the technical data you need.

Blacktree is right. With a small 4" grinder, it takes so little time I had forgotten about that. It just takes a minute or two per side. Sorry for the mis-information.

John Stricker

quote Originally posted by Blacktree: Yes, you have to mod the front brake caliper brackets. You need to grind down two spots on the bracket, so it doesn't interfere with the rotor. See this thread for details. About 2/3 of the way down the page, I have the technical data you need.

Very good thread link thanks. Taking .150" off is not a big deal, I think I would opt to grind the caliper where it contacts the bracket- or maybe not!

Funny with all my searches and reading about brake mods I did not come across that very clear illustration from 2004.

I have my brakes redone on the car, and properly bleed but those brakes just are not enough for me. I don't have plates or reg yet but I took her up to 55mph and she stops straight and solid but it takes time, as you know. Tic-tic-tic! We are spoiled with the newer cars having ABS and all. I cannot do anything else to really impove my brake job, I have a very firm pedal, but the stopping distance is not very good. If I slam down on the pedal I can lock them, but it takes some effort- lots of effort.

I would like to do only the fronts (grand am) and replace my booster with the Pirate Jack 7" dual universal booster. Hopefully this will improve things. Better to install the booter first is my guess.

as already stated yes grind them down. ive done just the fronts on my 84 daily. having tried the blazer mc and the fiero mc and swapping lines in the mc. id have to say keep the fiero mc and swap the lines on the prop valve. its some work and making adapting lines but the pedal feels better than original and i can lock all four with normal effort (unfortunatly i had to test it). good luck with your upgrade ive done all four on my 84 gt conversion and LOVE it wouldnt go back. and as stated have done just the fronts on my daily 84 dang ebrake lol. good luck and enjoy skoon

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84 gt project
86 gt project
84 daily
The junk yard is my zen garden
Future build "Ghost of Indy" i hope

Skoon
Not sure what you mean by changing lines on the proportioning valve. Do you mean from the master cylinder to the prop valve?

Sparx22

[This message has been edited by sparx22 (edited 09-03-2008).]

sorry for being vague. by swapping the lines yes from the mc to the prop block. under braking imho it helps it from not locking up, but still providing a very firm pedal. this i only did on my 84 daily with only the fronts done. my 84 gt i did not swap these lines as it works great set up as it was with the fiero mc. and let me state im no expert do your own testing and find what feels right to you. and to add to above im also running ss brake lines on all four corners on both cars.

------------------
84 gt project
86 gt project
84 daily
The junk yard is my zen garden
Future build "Ghost of Indy" i hope

I am still unclear on this. Are we removing something from the master cylinder, or larger diameter lines? Exactly what are we changing? Sorry for my ingornace.

no there is no removing anything. i tried looking for the thread again to no avail i did this upgrade close to a yr ago.on my 84gt i used the four beretta calipers with rotors, ss brake lines, blazer mc. all this was bolt in with the already noted mods to hubs and brackets. on my 84 daily i used the calipers and rotors on the front using the fiero mc with adapter lines (made with specs from thread i can not find) that swapped the lines mc and prop valve. so now the line comming from the (standing at driver fender looking at mc) front of the mc now instead of going to the front inlet on the prop valve now goes to the rear. then the rear outlet of mc goes to front inlet of prop valve. in the thread this was done to reduce the locking up and pedal travel that doing only the fronts people were experiancing. id take a pic and send it to someone to post but i havent a working camera at this moment. hope this helps like i stated before i am by no means an expert or would claim to be. hopefully someone else can chime in that has more technical info to help clear the confusion i have created sorry. skoon

------------------
84 gt project
86 gt project
84 daily
The junk yard is my zen garden
Future build "Ghost of Indy" i hope

Where did you get the cut down hubs to fit inside the Grand Am calipers?
s

Maybe these pictures will help you for grinding the bracket... I bought my hubs pre-done from West Coast Fieros...





-Brian

If you want an ebrake (handy for safety certifications) you can use the 85 Seville Caddy calipers on the rear w/ Pontiac 6000 driverside cable and the conversion brackets from DPWood. Balances perfectly and has the bleeder on top where it should be.

Arn

Arn
Does this work with Grand Am rotors on the rear?
Is this cable the cable from the e brake level back?
What are DPwood brackets?
jim

Jim the Grand Am rotors and calipers work on the rear without modification. The modification to have an ebrake with the Grand Am rotors is to use the bracket designed by me, with assistance from Rubyredfiero which is made by DPWood. You then use Cadillac calipers with a Pontiac 6000 driver side cable to have an ebrake.

Here is the thread

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/083566.html

Hope this helps.

Arn

Thank you Arns, as always you are very helpful.
Jim

Hey Jim,just remember after grinding,(but befor putting on the caliper),but while the bracket and rotar is on the car.Look at the back side in the area where you just ground off and see if its rubbing on the rotar (grind a little more off if you need to).Otherwise when you get everything back together,you will hear a grinding noise and wonder whats rubbing and have to dismantle the whole thing again.If you do hear a grinding noise it's probuble the C shaped bracket rubbing on the rotar,in the location where you did the grinding.so check both spots where your did your grinding while the rotar is on the car (caliper doesnt need to be installed yet,after you verify that it's not going to rubing).This is for the front only.Allso buy a mini greaser and grease the front end while you have the car in the air and if you got the bucks $$ and have the energy, you might want to change the shocks while your at it.

[This message has been edited by James Bond 007 (edited 09-07-2008).]