Here's how I did my belt. I wanted to use what I had, and my idler pulley was too small to put on top, so I used the bracket I made to mount the tensioner up high. It doesn't show in the pic, but I backed the mounting bolt with a nut.
And the coolant tube I made for the front of the cradle:
Bob
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07:40 AM
Oct 31st, 2007
cptsnoopy Member
Posts: 2585 From: phoenix, AZ, USA Registered: Jul 2003
I have been working an extra job on the side to pay bills. We are still matching record temps out here but very soon (usually by Halloween which is in 17 minutes) it cools off nicely... (I hope)
RCR, nice fabbing. Looks simple and effective.
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01:44 AM
RCR Member
Posts: 4410 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
I decided it was time to finish up the sub frame so I welded on a brace to hold up the original piece of the front cross member to the new cross member. I guess I should have looked closer at the old pics or at least had the tranny sitting on the sub frame before welding on the brace. I now appears that it may interfere with the tranny starter mount housing. Next thing, set the trans on there to see how close it is...
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01:01 AM
cptsnoopy Member
Posts: 2585 From: phoenix, AZ, USA Registered: Jul 2003
I am using the old 1/2 ton dodge engine mounts. I don't remember the year but I would not recommend them anyway as there is no safety catch if the rubber separates from either side of the mount. I put three more mounts in place (some what like dog bone mounts) to keep the engine from moving far enough to let the main mounts tear apart. I don't plan on driving this car very hard so I hope it holds together.
charlie
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07:56 PM
Erik Member
Posts: 5625 From: Des Moines, Iowa Registered: Jul 2002
I am using the old 1/2 ton dodge engine mounts. I don't remember the year but I would not recommend them anyway as there is no safety catch if the rubber separates from either side of the mount. I put three more mounts in place (some what like dog bone mounts) to keep the engine from moving far enough to let the main mounts tear apart. I don't plan on driving this car very hard so I hope it holds together.
charlie
Im using them on my swap ..Darth Fiero is confident enough using them that he uses them on customers cars he swaps engines into so I guess I will give them a go...I am concidering drilling through them and putting a bolt and nut for a safety catch
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08:27 PM
Apr 24th, 2008
cptsnoopy Member
Posts: 2585 From: phoenix, AZ, USA Registered: Jul 2003
Im using them on my swap ..Darth Fiero is confident enough using them that he uses them on customers cars he swaps engines into so I guess I will give them a go...I am concidering drilling through them and putting a bolt and nut for a safety catch
I think they will work ok if you don't run at the track. That is were Darth Fiero said that he tore a couple apart on his car. (IIRC)
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01:30 AM
Erik Member
Posts: 5625 From: Des Moines, Iowa Registered: Jul 2002
I think they will work ok if you don't run at the track. That is were Darth Fiero said that he tore a couple apart on his car. (IIRC)
they do make some dodge mounts that have the interlocking setup if you don't already know ..I almost went with them but didn tlike the way the interlocking tabs stuck out the side of the mount. At 2 bucks a pop if I manage to break on I will just try one with a bolt through it and see what happens. I like the low profile of the mount
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03:34 AM
Russ544 Member
Posts: 2136 From: S.W. Oregon Registered: Jun 2003
as long as you use a good dogbone system you'll be fine. I'm using 4 stock type (very soft) Fiero trans mounts to support my assy without issues, but I also have 2 dogbones to limit torque twist.
Some pictures of the Aurora mounted on the subframe. I need to weld another O2 bung on the rear exhaust. The egr bung will be welded where you see it sitting. I will try to make an exhaust brace from the rear head to the rear exhaust to support the weight of the cat. Then the clutch slave will be setup. After all of that, the water system will get figured out and last will be the electrical.
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03:23 AM
May 9th, 2008
cptsnoopy Member
Posts: 2585 From: phoenix, AZ, USA Registered: Jul 2003
Love the mounts ..that sucker aint going anywhere I really like the dual purpose skidplate/front-back motor mount shared plate. My pan is about a 1/4 of an inch below the bottom of the frame so I just might have to make something like that to protect it ..that's one big azz alternator ..I'm using a fiero alt for mine so that in case it breaks down away from home..I could actually change it without much trouble ..it looks like you cut off the front dog bone mount ..did it interfere with anything? BTW what AC compressor is that?
[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 05-09-2008).]
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01:39 AM
cptsnoopy Member
Posts: 2585 From: phoenix, AZ, USA Registered: Jul 2003
Your right, the dog bone mount was cut out. I don't remember why right now. The A/C compressor is a new OEM Harrison V-5 to replace the older one that was originally in the car. I just needed to make a mounting setup that kept it real close to the motor so that alternator would fit. The alt is from a mid 90's caddy IIRC.
It looks like I will need to extend the A/C flex lines about an inch or so to connect up correctly. I will be measuring that up shortly.
Charlie
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01:51 AM
May 15th, 2008
cptsnoopy Member
Posts: 2585 From: phoenix, AZ, USA Registered: Jul 2003
It's time to make the clutch work. I cut the angled part of the clutch arm off and left only the part that mounts to the trans. I plan to use a direct pull so I will need to fab a new arm with no offset that is fixed perpendicular to the clamping bolt on the arm mount. Once I manage to mount it to the cast arm mount I will provide more pictures. The first three pictures are of the clutch arm (the last is showing the little bit of relief that I needed to get the mount on the trans because the N* water log bolt is just a tad too close.) The last picture is the pull type slave that I will use. This is normally used on a VW clutch setup. I will need to swap the bleed valve with the hydraulic fitting to make it so the bleed valve will be the highest point in the system while the hydraulic fitting is nearest the left side of the car.
I just shaved a little off the top of the clutch arm to miss the log....Drove it tuesday for the first time.
As for A/C I had a hydrulic hose company make me new lines....Ditched the connection on the drivers side frame and tapped into the lines right beside the gas tank...Much cleaner looking.
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10:20 PM
cptsnoopy Member
Posts: 2585 From: phoenix, AZ, USA Registered: Jul 2003
I just shaved a little off the top of the clutch arm to miss the log....Drove it tuesday for the first time.
As for A/C I had a hydrulic hose company make me new lines....Ditched the connection on the drivers side frame and tapped into the lines right beside the gas tank...Much cleaner looking.
Hi buds,
I think that the getrag clutch arm will clear ok with that mod but the Isuzu apparently needs more work so I just decided to set it up differently. Thanks for the idea concerning the A/C lines. I am going to have a shop make up a new set of lines. I will go with whatever is easier, using the stock connectors on the left side or cutting and running direct like you did.
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10:54 PM
May 16th, 2008
SpeedWorksAutoTuning Member
Posts: 380 From: Washington State Registered: Oct 2007
I noticed you said you drove yours recently, how did it go?
Better then expected. Its actually silly fast, think I stretched my face from the hugh grin I had. Idle hunts a little when coming to a stop but settles down after a few seconds.
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07:03 AM
cptsnoopy Member
Posts: 2585 From: phoenix, AZ, USA Registered: Jul 2003
Better then expected. Its actually silly fast, think I stretched my face from the hugh grin I had. Idle hunts a little when coming to a stop but settles down after a few seconds.
Here are a couple of pictures showing the progress of the modified clutch arm. The original piece fits (press fit) into the new arm until the keyed hole is 1/2 covered. I still need to grind out the area on the new arm that now covers the hole. Then 3 bolts will go through the little holes you see in both arms and that should hold it together fine. The distance from the center of the keyed hole and the center of the slave bolt was 5" on the original arm, this one turned out to be 4-15/16". It should be close enough. If everything clears at the trans end of the arm, I will make the bracket that will hold the other end of the slave. It will be bolted to the original slave mount on the trans.
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01:43 AM
Erik Member
Posts: 5625 From: Des Moines, Iowa Registered: Jul 2002
