Mostly honeymooning. I have taken a few measurements and realized that the armrest on the Fiero sits lower than the GA armrest. In all likelyhood I won't be able to use the GA panels but they are helpfull from an overall appearance concept. I will probably use just the armrests, mounts, door release and the plastic surrounds but that's about it. I will be installing speakers into the door panels and have bought some 6" speakers that are only 1.5" deep.
Thanks for asking!
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 08-21-2006).]
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03:41 PM
Aug 22nd, 2006
Chris Hodson Member
Posts: 3093 From: Carpentersville Registered: Aug 2006
I have really liked reading this thread! very nice work on your fiberglassing! Its Its addictive! I wish I would have used a scoop more like yours. I think mine was a bit over kill for my car. Mine is the grey car. Your dash is really sweet. Ive always wanted to do that, its looks so sharp. It really brings the car together! I used seats out of a newer pontiac sunfire. Its like they hug you everytime you sit in them and the brackets match up perfectly with your stock ones. And for taller people, it actually sits lower than the fiero seat! If your interested ill get a picture.
Thanks Chris! What color is you car painted? I'm thinking of using a similar color. I have already purchased and installed a set of Mr. Mike's leathers on my seat so I won't be looking for a different set but you could post some pictures of your seats if you would like. I'd be interested in seeing how they look.
Nolan
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12:29 AM
Chris Hodson Member
Posts: 3093 From: Carpentersville Registered: Aug 2006
I have finished the "blank palette" door panels and they look like this:
Pretty boring as is but that will change.
I have also started to play around with the console but there are no real progress pictures for that yet. I have removed the carpets to facilitate the fabrication work and I am really happy with the condition of the floor pan:
I also discovered that the rear speakers were replaced by a previous owner. I assume that Kenwood speakers are not stock:
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]
I attached the passenger armrest and temporarily installed the panel to see how it looks:
The black outlines are where the components were going to sit but that would be too high compared to the stock armrest height. The armrest was mounted lower and the red outline is where the door release will now sit once installed.
The next picture shows how the "circle" now sits further out when the door is closed than what it did using the unmodified Fiero panel:
Here is the picture before the modification:
Here's how it looks with one of the refinished seats:
Looking at it I think I need to go with black carpets. The dash color and the lighter seat colors are close but not close enough so I will be coloring the dash black once I'm done.
Thoughts?
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]
That floorboard is in great condition! Are you the original owner, or was the previous owner(s) intelligent enough to close the roof when it rained? Rusted out floors is one of the killers that took my t-top car down.
What do you have sticking off of the doorsills in those pictures?
[This message has been edited by Toaster_Man (edited 08-25-2006).]
No I'm not the original owner, I'm think I'm the second owner but possibly the third. The little wings sticking out on the door sills are stock pieces for the GT ground effects.
Here's a few more pictures with the other seat and the gauge pod inplace. Mostly for my personal inspiration:
If I do say so myself.
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]
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09:06 PM
Aug 26th, 2006
Chris Hodson Member
Posts: 3093 From: Carpentersville Registered: Aug 2006
That dash just brings the car together so well. I want one. You should make a price list for meterials! It looks so nice. And congradulations on your floor pan lol. I had to cut mine out and rebuild it out of sheet aluminum. Also do you think the wireing for a 93 bonneville w/ a 3800 would differ much from yours in having to do with wiring up the speedometer?
I have yet to look into how all this is going to be wired. I'm in the process of educating my self from an electrical stand point. So I can't answer your question yet.
Nolan
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12:27 AM
RCR Member
Posts: 4410 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
Looking good Nolan. You're going to pass me in no time. I have my dash back together, though, and I'm working diligently on my doors. I'll have an update soon...
Thanks Timo! Stripping out the carpet and seeing the black pan with everything really made up my mind for me.
I have a wee tiny update. I did a little work on the passenger door panel today. I cut in the surround for the door latch handle and attached a piece off of the GA panel that helps support the front of the armrest, this piece was cut off the GA panel and trimmed down to the size that I wanted. Once that was done I mounted the door panel:
You can see how the opening through the surround (where the insert goes) exposes a porting of the inner door structure. The horizontal silver rod that you can see in the opening is the rod for the door lock. Using a piece of soapstone I traced the outline of the opening onto the inner panel. I also put the insert in place and traced the small hole for the latch handle. Here's the outline once the panel was removed:
The small "square" outline inside the larger outline is the hole for the handle. Using this small hole as a guide I traced out where the handle and its bracket would sit. You will have to cut a hole into the inner door steel panel for the handle arm that attaches to the latch rod. This is how it looks attached:
The latch rod will now be cut to the new length needed and the end bent at a 90 deg. angle to fit into the socket on the back of the latch handle. And how it looks with the panel and insert in place:
And believe it or not it actually works! How did that happen! I still have to shorten the lock rod yet though.
That's it, I'm off to bed.
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]
Nope, nothing new at this point. We are actually on holidays out at the cabin on the lake working hard. You know, sitting on the deck, going for walks, swimming, boating...
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 09-06-2006).]
Well, we just got home tonight, but I'm afraid that you may have to twitch for a bit more. I'm not sure when I'm going to be able to get started on this again, I may just have time for bits and pieces.
I have ordered some goodies from Rodney Dickman and the Fiero Store so I'm not at a complete standstill. I have also been thinking about the console and I have started to work on it. I'll post some pictures once I have made more progress and the parts arrive.
My parts from Rodney arrived on Friday. I bought the ball joints for the rear control arms and the competition short shifter c/w leather boot. Great looking products from Rodney as usual:
The shifter is a really easy mod to do. Here is a picture of my shifter before removal:
All that has to be done is removal of the small cotter pin that attaches the shift cable to the bottom of the shifter as well as removing the "C" retainer on the main shaft. Here is how the well looks without the shifter:
Here is a comparison of the new short shifter with the other shifter. I had previously replaced my stock 87 shifter for an 84 unit. You can also see the cotter pin and the retainer:
And how the new shifter looks in the well:
As I said, if you haven't done this before it is really simple to do.
As indicated earlier I have been thinking about the console. Trying to decide what to do and how to do it has been a little frustrating. So after some more thought I decided to have another look at the stock console. I trimmed it to length just to get a better idea of how it might look and set it in place.
Not as bad as I had previously thought but certainly not just a drop in place piece either. But I think there is some potential.
Somewhere in my thought process I came to the conclusion that I was over thinking the problem. I was thinking that I would have to make a console from scratch. But looking at the stock piece I realized that I don't have to reinvent the wheel but only adapt it.
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]
Part of the issue with the stock console is, in my mind, that it is too bulky. Yet in the pictures above it does taper down in width and is close to the width of the Stealth console. So I began to wonder what the skeleton of the console looks like with all the foam and vinyl stripped off and proceeded to remove it.
There is a pile of foam on the skeleton and removing it slimmed the console down considerably. In the process I discovered that it was badly cracked, missing a few broken pieces and quite soft as a result. I suspect that there are a lot of cars out there with damaged consoles.
To repair it I applied two layers of fiberglass to the underside:
In this picture you can see how some pieces are missing. They were patched later on using fiberglass reinforced filler:
After a little more trimming I did another test fit. Previously the console was still sloping up to the Stealth console but not it was laying much more level and was surprising close to the top of the Stealth console:
I find the stripped console to be a much closer match and not so bulky. To make a filler piece for the gap between the two consoles I used the skeleton as a mold for a single layer of fiberglass by covering it with packing tape:
Because the console tapers this piece was too wide so when I trimmed it I also cut it in half lengthwise so that it could be place on the console and adjusted to suit.
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]
Here are some pictures of the test fit, as you can see I overlapped the two pieces so that they would match the Stealth console:
Once I was satisfied with the fit I attached the pieces using Corvette panel adhesive:
By the way, the Stealth console was protected with packing tape so that the adhesive would not stick to the console. Once set I applied more fiberglass to the piece:
I also added a small extension to the driver-side to cover the indent in the Stealth console that is meant for the Stealth e-brake:
It's a long ways from being finished but it's a start!
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]
Well, you did it. One of my sticking points whenever I think about this swap is that I don't want to lose the stock armrest storage, but also couldn't think of a way to make the stock armrest look good. I can't believe the solution was that obvious. Thanks again.
Just out of curiousity, did you have a plan yet for when it comes time to recover that armrest? Are you going to get it revinylized or are you just going to fiberglass over it and paint it?
I knew you could use wax paper but I had the packing tape handy.
***UPDATE**
I received my goodies from the Fiero Store. They didn't send one item, my new shift knob but the were very apologetic and are sending it out to me right away. Here is the carpet kit:
It looks to be like a good kit but one thing I noticed is that it does not have all the anti-wear pads that the stock carpet has. It only had one at the driver's feet. I also ordered the black Fiero emblem floor mats:
These come with hardware that will prevent the mats from moving around. I also got the dew wipes, sunroof/headliner molding, shifter boot and one engine grille screw with the flap. The screw is a little pricey but they are as scarce as hens teeth up here.
I have also purchased 100 sq. ft. of sound deadener from the group buy that is currently going on in the mall.
I have also done some more work on the console. When the foam and vinyl was removed it revealed a recess in both side of the console at the "elbow" I want to have a strait edge so these were filled in using some sheet styrene and fiberglass reinforced filler:
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]
To get a smoother and more uniform finish I have stretched some flexible polyester fabric over the front portion of the console. This was then covered with resin:
I used double sided tape to temporarily fasten the fabric to the backside until the resin kicks.
In this picture I have placed the stripped console door in place.
You can see that it protrudes quite a bit from the console skeleton. There was a lot of molded foam in this area that concealed the edge of the door and made it flush. I don't particularly like how this looks and so for the moment I have decided to fill in over the door opening. To do fill it in I again stretched fabric and applied resin. This creates the first layer and mat layers are added later.
And after additional mat has been applied:
That's it so far.
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]
IDLE THOUGHT: I would have molded some type of tray on the top the the console (where it covers the ecm) so I could put my cell phone up there. That way my cell phone would be right next to my ear and I could hear it ring with the windows down and the tops out.
SECOND IDLE THOUGHT: ...Or I could just get angry at my shortsightedness the first time it falls off and goes under the seat and I have to remove the seat to get it back.
IDLE THOUGHT: I would have molded some type of tray on the top the the console (where it covers the ecm) so I could put my cell phone up there. That way my cell phone would be right next to my ear and I could hear it ring with the windows down and the tops out.
SECOND IDLE THOUGHT: ...Or I could just get angry at my shortsightedness the first time it falls off and goes under the seat and I have to remove the seat to get it back.
The tray isn't a bad idea, I just find it difficult to access that area on the console while driving. No thoughts are idle!
I actually managed to get the driver-side door panel in and working, now for the hard part - sculpting and contouring the panel to fit all the components as well as adding door speakers. I like the how the curve of the console bottom lip echos the door armrest:
Now for a question, if you are looking at this thread please post your opinion of the wing in the next two pictures. Is it too much? What do you think?
My wife and I are having a discussion She thinks I need the opinion of some "car guys" and I agree. She also thinks it's too "muscle car". Personally to me the Fiero smacks of European sports car rather than North American muscle.
I am also considering deleting the wing and going with Sage's spoiler below:
(I borrowed your pics Sage, hope you don't mind)
Is this too understated? Opinions????? Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-29-2007).]
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11:23 PM
Oct 11th, 2006
exoticse Member
Posts: 8654 From: Orlando, Fl Registered: Jun 2003
I think you should go with the wing, but that it should move back some. If the wing came back as far as the edge of the bumper, you would then have a perfect "C" shape to the tail section.Or should I say "backward C" shape. Right now the line stops at the deck lid and then continues down to the bumper... Grrr! If I weren't at work, I'd draw a picture of what I'm talking about.
------------------ Kendall (Icelander) Whitlatch '85 Fiero 2M4 - 5spd Isuzu '67 LeMans/GTO clone 6.5 litre TH400 All the rest aren't Pontiacs, so what does it matter?
I think that the raised wing fits the lines of the car much better. The changes you have made to the car have pushed it closer the "exotic sports car" and further away from "American muscle car." The drift spoiler would just look out of place.
As far as moving the wing back on the decklid, I'm not sure. I have seen cars that ended up looking really nice like that, but with the height of the spoiler stands I think moving it too far back would seperate the wing from the rest of the car. It would look more tacked on there instead of looking like it belonged. Tip extensions could end up the same way. I've seen some that look really stylish, but you also run the risk of making the wing look too big and heavy.
If it was me, I would definitly have to spend some time with the search function looking for examples of these two mods to decide if they would work on my car or not.