Those doors look fantastic. Well done. I really like the way you incorporated all the existing dash and door handl elines into your final product. It looks factory.
I was wondering if I can drop by some time this week or next weekend if you don't mind to get a better look at how you bonded the new flat piece to the extisting interior door edges before you started doing all the work. That is my next part on the interior doors for me and I don't like the setup I have right now. Yours looks really good and uses the original xmas trees and locations.
Shaping that foam is messy but pretty easy isn't it? One of the best parts is that if you goof, you pour a bit more and shape again.
Again, well done on these doors. The interior is shaping up very nicely. I like it.
... I was wondering if I can drop by some time this week or next weekend if you don't mind to get a better look at how you bonded the new flat piece to the extisting interior door edges before you started doing all the work. That is my next part on the interior doors for me and I don't like the setup I have right now. Yours looks really good and uses the original xmas trees and locations. ... Cheers Don
Sure Don, when would you like to come over?
Nolan
IP: Logged
02:25 AM
May 29th, 2007
355Fiero Member
Posts: 548 From: Victoria, BC Canada Registered: Dec 2004
The panels have been sanded and re-coated with the primer. The next step is to apply multiple coats of the SEM texture coat. There is some difference in the appearance of the texture depending upon how you apply the spray such as distance, number of coats etc. you will have to experiment to see what works for you. Here is a panel after multiple coats have been applied:
The texture coat dries flat black and it is almost impossible to see the pattern once dry. You can't really see it in this close up:
Once the texture is dry I applied the first layer of the SEM color coat. I'm using the Landau Black which is a matte black. You can now begin to see the texture:
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 06-18-2007).]
IP: Logged
01:43 AM
Mister Member
Posts: 1975 From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Registered: Aug 2004
I'm now working on making some fill pieces for the gap at the console/dash as seen below:
The Stealth uses a contoured piece of plastic that is covered in carpet to fill in this area on both sides of the console. I can't use this because I have removed about 3/4" between where the top of the console butts up against the bottom of the dash. This was done to give me enough room to get the console to sit flat on top of the tunnel structure. On the Stealth the tunnel structure doesn't have to accommodate a gas tank and so it sits lower with respect to the dash. In any event this has changed the shape of the curve on the bottom of the console. I did use the Stealth dash piece as a template and through trial and error I was able to cut a piece of Masonite to match the new curve:
Another issue is that the console edge is not a strait line and is actually a compound curve. After a few test fits and a few nasty words a thought entered my head, yes believe it or not! I know that wood and drywall can be made to fit contours if they are soaked and allowed to dry in place so I figured what the heck and gave it a try. Here's the piece soaking in the tub:
I only let it sit in the warm water for a couple of minutes as I was worried that it would crumble if it sat too long. I dabbed it dry and placed it into position on the console and taped it in place:
I let it sit overnight to dry completely and after work had a look:
It held the curve exactly, and there was much rejoicing
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 06-18-2007).]
Before I took it off the car I traced the outside edge onto another piece of Masonite to make a bottom. You can see the curve marked out on the pics above. Here's the bottom cut out and ready to be attached to the filler:
it was then glued on using a glue gun, sanded and then both sides of the assembled piece were coated with fiberglass resin:
Once dry, a layer of fiberglass mat was added to the inside only as I wanted the outside nice and smooth for the vinyl:
The excess glass was trimmed and the edges sanded and did a test fit:
It looked good so the piece was covered with vinyl:
And here it sits:
The other side is in progress.
Thanks Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 06-18-2007).]
IP: Logged
11:49 PM
Jun 13th, 2007
Gokart Mozart Member
Posts: 12143 From: Metro Detroit Registered: Mar 2003
Wow Nolan, I have only skimmed through this thread. You do some pretty amazing work. Looks like it will take me a while this evening to read it all.
On a side note....are you a member of the Calgary Fieros club, or ever go to the A&W for there meets?I'd love to see your work first hand sometime.
Hi:
Thanks!
Yes I am and yes I do. Unfortunately the car is not on the road (it's in a million pieces) but you could always drop by and have a look sometime. Will you be at the A&W meeting on the 21st?
Nolan
IP: Logged
05:42 PM
SAFASTRO Member
Posts: 604 From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Registered: Nov 2006
I am going to try to get there and meet a few guys. (and to show my wife what Fiero's are all about) I am in the middle of a deal on a Fiero, so for now I have all these plans and questions in my head. Maybe I'll see you there!
IP: Logged
06:48 PM
Jun 16th, 2007
Mickey_Moose Member
Posts: 7549 From: Edmonton, AB, Canada Registered: May 2001
The door panels are now finished!! Here are the pics and information:
I wanted to use a vinyl on the flat portions of the panels that is similar in color to the center panels on the seats and other pieces. I went down to a local automotive upholsters shop and went through their sample books and found something that is awfully close but not exact. It will have to do. I also purchased some close cell dense foam that's about 1/8" thick for padding under the vinyl.
I started by making a template for each of the areas:
And using the templates I cut out 4 pieces of Masonite to use as the backing for the vinyl:
Then using the Masonite pieces as a template I traced out the shapes onto the foam and cut them out:
The foam was then attached to the corresponding Masonite piece using contact cement and final trimming was done:
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 06-18-2007).]
The vinyl was then laid out, marked and cut to rough shape. More contact cement was applied and then began the meticulous process of adhering the vinyl to the Masonite. Care has to be taken to ensure that the vinyl lies flat and even, in particular around corners.
Once the pieces were complete they were then attached to the panels using high quality construction panel adhesive and placed into my high tech clamping fixture:
And here is the final product:
Me likey!
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 06-18-2007).]
The color is slightly off in the pictures but I'm pretty darn happy. It seemed to me like I was never going to be able to figure out how to do them and I was actually quite concerned that they would look like crap. It's nice to be finally finishing things like the head liner, door panels, console infill pieces. I can actually start to see some progress and a big part of it is because of the input and encouragement you all have been giving me. Thanks to all! (Sounds corny I know but it's true.)
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 06-18-2007).]
IP: Logged
09:56 PM
Jun 18th, 2007
thismanyfieros Member
Posts: 3468 From: Red Deer, alberta,canada Registered: Dec 2002
While I have the dash out I did another quick modification to the HVAC plenum to get the center console vent outlet to line up with the Stealth dash vent. The stock Fiero outlet sits about 3/4" too low and 2" too far to the driver-side when compared to the Stealth. If you are doing this swap the position may vary depending upon how you Stealth dash sits in the car. Here's a picture to show what I mean:
The red box approximates the position I need to move the outlet to. I basically cut out two pieces from the plenum in such a fashion that they could be rotated to achieve the required offset:
They were reversed and placed back onto the plenum:
and then covered with a couple of layers of fiberglass, painted black and the modified assembly was reinstalled:
I also removed the flange and foam strip that was at the end of the outlet. The trimmed outlet is almost exactly the same size as the Stealth vent and a short sleeve with foam tape seals will be needed to interconnect the two together once the dash is back in place.
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 06-19-2007).]
I have now lined the back side of the door panels with the sound deadener that I used in the car interior:
The completed panels are somewhat heavier than when they were stock but I think it's a small price to pay to have the interior match and look like a stock install once it's done.
I also want to have some custom badging that will distinguish my car. I like the Pegasus theme so I have been looking for some distinctive items that bear this image. I actually found something on E-Bay that I like. To make the badge backing I had to make some small Masonite disks that are to be covered in black vinyl and have an aluminum outer ring. Where does one find an aluminum ring you ask? Well let me show you.
I used my dremell with a cut off wheel and got this:
I need two of these as they are going onto my new door panels. Once cut off and cleaned up a bit I traced out the inner diameter onto the Masonite:
I rough cut the disks and then used my disk sander to finish them off so that their outside diameter is slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the aluminum rings.
then using the ubiquitous contact cement I attached the vinyl:
The aluminum rings were then fitted over the vinyl and the excess trimmed. The back side had some super glue/crazy glue applied to the vinyl seam and the back of the ring to hold it in place and I then had two of these:
i gotta ask whatchoo smokin man??? i mean you come up with the damndest ideas,,, straight up cool azz stuff...i will never look at a pop can the same again... lol tim
i gotta ask whatchoo smokin man??? i mean you come up with the damndest ideas,,, straight up cool azz stuff...i will never look at a pop can the same again... lol tim
LOL, it's the caffine in all the Coke that I drink!
IP: Logged
11:56 PM
Jun 20th, 2007
RCR Member
Posts: 4416 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
i gotta ask whatchoo smokin man??? i mean you come up with the damndest ideas,,, straight up cool azz stuff...i will never look at a pop can the same again... lol tim
^^^ What he said...Damned..That's just crazy cool, Nolan.
I have been trying to figure out how to add some cup holders into the Stealth console. Try as I might however, there simply isn't enough room between the shifter and the face of the console to have something pop horizontally out of the console without interference from the shifter.
So on to plan "B"...
I found an nice billet cup holder bezel on E-Bay that fits into a console type application and I think it has some great potential:
I will need to fabricate some cups and do some cutting but I think it's going to work out great. The piece is actually meant for use a new style Mustang but no flames please!
Now for the second delivery, Cedric and my wife Barbara had to do a bit of work to get it into the garage:
Hmm.... I wonder what it could be?
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 07-02-2007).]
Well, I got the new heart unpacked. It is a rebuilt engine with apparently about 1000 miles on it. It looks to be nice and clean and nothing obvious:
It came up from the States and even with shipping and the purchase price it was considerably cheaper than rebuilding the 3.4 DOHC that I already had. The one I have is a high mileage unit but in good condition. I'll keep it around in case I blow this one up! I realize that I'm taking a bit of a chance but hey you gotta trust people sometimes. Actually the seller was really good about the whole thing, I just paid for the shipping up front to cover his cost and after I have a look if it's a good engine then I pay him the balance and if not then I keep the rest of the cash. Kinda made me feel more comfortable about purchasing an engine from Florida. Maybe I'm crazy??!!
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 07-02-2007).]
I finally took the 5-speed off the shelf for some much needed clean-up:
It's amazing what some elbow grease and paint can achieve:
I've ordered my Fidanza aluminum flywheel and it will arrive tomorrow. I checked locally on what it would cost for a Spec stage 2 clutch at Davenport Racing. They wanted to hose me $600.00 I don't think so. The Spec web site lists this as a $300 US item so I think I will see if I can purchase it directly from Spec. I'm going to get the bits and pieces that I need such as new flywheel bolts, dodge truck mounts etc. Who knows I may even start to mount the new engine and the transmission on the cradle in the next couple of weeks!
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 07-02-2007).]
IP: Logged
09:40 PM
Daredevil05 Member
Posts: 2345 From: South Jersey 08077 Registered: Oct 2006
I was very impressed with Steven Snyder's modified 3.4 DOHC intake (Nice job Steven, hope you don't mind me stealing the picture) and I have decided to make one for myself as well. If you haven't seen it, here's Stevens engine:
Sure looks nice eh?
So this is my progress so far. First I marked out the intake:
I then used a cutting disk on my angle grinder to start cutting along the marks:
The cutting wheel can't get right to the end of the cuts so I finished it off with a reciprocating saw:
And it seems like an opportune time to smooth out the runners :
That's it so far.
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 07-18-2007).]