When the stock hub is in place on the back of the wheel the nuts for the front cap would no longer have sufficient space. I cant just rotate the cap as there are two rods that tie into it from the bottom curve of the new wheel. However, the inside piece that holds the horn button can rotate but that meant that I would have to drill new holes for the machine screws that came with the wheel. Here is a picture showing the plastic center piece rotated and used as a template to punch the new hole locations. There are two existing holes that I will reuse (they are for 2 screws from the back that won't be installed) and they were used to hold the "template" in place:
The front aluminum piece was then drilled for the new holes and the whole assembly was but together to check the fit. Here's the backside:
What do you know... It all lined up! I then used JB weld to attach the nuts to the wheel as there is no way to access these once the wheel is on the column. I also covered the screw heads with tape first so that there would be no JB weld on them:
And here's the assembled wheel:
And the shroud in place.
Now I just have to figure out how to wire up the horn. Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 09-22-2007).]
Have you gone to the dark side of rice?? No, my freind; rice is a paint-job you did in your garage with a brush, rice is a muffler dangling off the end of a car because it's too big. No, you've gone to the light side of awesomeness.
This thread is great because it's everything most people will ever want to do with their fiero, keep it up!
I thought I would warn you. I'm running into all sorts of lq1 troubles on my end. I would like to thoroughly suggest you remake the thin 1/8 steel bracket that runs from the front transmission mount (under driver) to the transmission. Mine has folded in half ! Since you can already make parts at your shop, make another out of 1/4 steel. It may save you tons of headache down the road.
Everything else looks amazing. Keep up the good work!
I thought I would warn you. I'm running into all sorts of lq1 troubles on my end. I would like to thoroughly suggest you remake the thin 1/8 steel bracket that runs from the front transmission mount (under driver) to the transmission. Mine has folded in half ! Since you can already make parts at your shop, make another out of 1/4 steel. It may save you tons of headache down the road.
Everything else looks amazing. Keep up the good work!
I assume that this is the mount you are talking about?
I think that it should be fairly easy to rienforce this if it is.
Thanks For the compliment! Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 11-20-2007).]
I have read your entire thread and have to say that this is the most awesome thread with this kind of work being done. Being that you have never done this before it inspires me to tackle this kind of work. If only I had a garage. I really like the interior work on your fiero. I also have to ask where did you get the seat covers for your car? I really like them.
Sorry that I have not had an update for you. Life has interfered and I haven't really been able to work on the car.
I have been doing some home reno's (keeps the Wife happy ) Also our '96 Subaru Outback bit the dust so I have purchased a '05 Subaru Legacy GT Limited Wagon with the 2.5l turbo!! I'll post some pictures of it later. It's a great car and fun to drive.
Hopefully I'll be able to post an update on the Fiero soon.
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 01-15-2008).]
Nolan...I just took the time to actually read the whole thread from start to finish....and I am in awe!!!! What a wonderful, detailed account of a true labour of love!! And I am happy to have been able to contribute in a small way!! Hope you can get going again soon Best wishes Nick
[This message has been edited by fierofetish (edited 02-20-2008).]
Originally posted by Sourmug: And the assembly attached to the door:
Nolan
Wow, I don't know how I missed this thread up until now. I guess I should have realized a decklid vent couldn't take 16 pages!
I really wished I had seen this last year when I spent hours staring at my doors trying to figure out where to mount the actuator on my firebird door panel conversion. It ended up in the exact same place. I'd give you a "+" but you already have one.
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12:32 PM
Apr 8th, 2008
Riceburner98 Member
Posts: 2179 From: Natick, Ma, USA Registered: Apr 2002
Damn! I'd never read it either, because of the title.. Didn't know what I'd been missing out on! Kind of inspires me to do something with the 3KGT dash that's propped up in the corner... Good job man, some really cool stuff going on there! I like the heater controls...
I have been working on attaching the various bits and pieces for the doors and fenders that come with the stage 2 scoops. The adhesive that I'm using is the 3M Automix Panel Bonding Adhesive which comes in cartridges:
there is an applicator available that costs on the order of $150 to $200 but I didn't bother with it. I just squeezed out the two components using even pressure on the back and mixed then together and applied it to the parts. Don't bother with the applicator unless you really want one.
To start, I sanded off the paint and primer to expose the base material on the door panels and fenders:
Then did some test fits without the adhesive:
After marking out where I wanted the pieces to sit I then applied the adhesive and clamped the parts in place:
And here are the parts after the adhesive set but prior to filling:
There fiberglass pieces don't precisely follow all the contours but they are close. I added fiberglass to the bottom edge as seen above to help fill in the gaps.
To fill in the holes in the fender left by the GT ground FX I adhered pieces of the fender material to the back side. These holes will then be filled in with filler.
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 04-10-2008).]
Also, I purchased an older model Firebird wing. I like the rear diffuser that was made here in this Thread
Here are a couple of pictures of 3.8 SC's car:
As noted in the thread above, the wing stand locations need to be modified to suit the rear fascia. Here is the stock position with the cuts marked out:
To make the cuts I used my trusty Dremmel tool with a cutting wheel. Make sure you wear a mask while doing this:
First I cut the marks across the wing:
And then along the seams on the front and rear edges of the wing. Once the cuts were done I carefully pried the pieces loose. They are bonded to a pair of ribs running lengthwise down the inside of the wing:
I then flipped the pieces and switched the ends that they were attached to and did a trial fit. As you can see there were a few gaps as I had slightly the wrong angle on my cuts:
During the prying process, the top and bottom surfaces of the wing separated slightly at the cuts so using the 3M adhesive I reattached them. In the picture below you can see the ribs:
To add more bonding surface, I attached some SMC tabs on the inside surface of the wing. These were bonded with the 3M and clamped:
Once the tabs were set the stands were bonded into their new locations:
The tabs also provide backing for filler to be added into the gaps, and some quick sanding was done to smooth out the edges prior to filling:
I then used the reinforced "kitty hair" filler:
And then of course the sanding begins
OK, that's all for tonight. Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 04-10-2008).]
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10:46 PM
Apr 11th, 2008
thismanyfieros Member
Posts: 3468 From: Red Deer, alberta,canada Registered: Dec 2002
i am beginning to think it will never be done..this thread makes me scared for my own ideas...thats why i just drive my car...lol...tooo little time ....looks sweet man....tim
i am beginning to think it will never be done..this thread makes me scared for my own ideas...thats why i just drive my car...lol...tooo little time ....looks sweet man....tim
Me too!
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12:44 AM
thismanyfieros Member
Posts: 3468 From: Red Deer, alberta,canada Registered: Dec 2002
WOW Nolan.......you never cease to amaze me!! And I'm sure a few more members watching this thread. I hope to one day see this thing in person. Great work, and I'm sure I'll be asking you tonnes of questions this spring, as I'm just starting the tear-down of my 87 GT, for my mods. Hopefully the first thing will be the frame stretch. Any experience with that?? Or should I be asking Don that question??
WOW Nolan.......you never cease to amaze me!! And I'm sure a few more members watching this thread. I hope to one day see this thing in person. Great work, and I'm sure I'll be asking you tonnes of questions this spring, as I'm just starting the tear-down of my 87 GT, for my mods. Hopefully the first thing will be the frame stretch. Any experience with that?? Or should I be asking Don that question??
Thanks!
No I don't have any experience with stretches, Don's the local "authority" for that, I'm sure he could help you out.
quote
Originally posted by 85LAMB:
Thanks for this great tread, I can't believe I never read it before......
My Pleasure
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 04-13-2008).]
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08:23 PM
PFF
System Bot
Apr 26th, 2008
RCR Member
Posts: 4410 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
I have been working on attaching the various bits and pieces for the doors and fenders that come with the stage 2 scoops. The adhesive that I'm using is the 3M Automix Panel Bonding Adhesive which comes in cartridges:
there is an applicator available that costs on the order of $150 to $200 but I didn't bother with it. I just squeezed out the two components using even pressure on the back and mixed then together and applied it to the parts. Don't bother with the applicator unless you really want one.
Does this epoxy flex at all? I'm looking for good adhesive/epoxy to use on the chin spoiler on my car. I want to move my fog lights to the chin spoiler and add "bucket" section (like the front parking lights) to the chin spoiler. I want to try to find something that won't crack and can flex.
By the way, have been following this thread since the beginning, and everytime I see the work on your car I want to go out and work on my car. Thanks for giving me the motivation, your work is awesome.
fiero go fast: The 3M product that I used isn't intended for bumper repair. They do have another product which is 3M Automix 5895 Plastic repair. The description for this is:
"3M 5895 is a two-part epoxy used to repair most flexible plastic parts, including bumper covers and other plastic body panels. This product should NOT be used with SMC/Fiberglass. This product is easy sanding and formulated for excellent featheredge. Can be used to repair most plastic parts used on vehicles today. This product does not require a special applicator gun."
I have never used this but I think that it would be better suited for your application. **Note that this is NOT SUITABLE for SMC/Fiberglass**
Nolan
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02:34 PM
fiero go fast Member
Posts: 1728 From: Royersford, PA Registered: Apr 2002
fiero go fast: The 3M product that I used isn't intended for bumper repair. They do have another product which is 3M Automix 5895 Plastic repair. The description for this is:
"3M 5895 is a two-part epoxy used to repair most flexible plastic parts, including bumper covers and other plastic body panels. This product should NOT be used with SMC/Fiberglass. This product is easy sanding and formulated for excellent featheredge. Can be used to repair most plastic parts used on vehicles today. This product does not require a special applicator gun."
I have never used this but I think that it would be better suited for your application. **Note that this is NOT SUITABLE for SMC/Fiberglass**
Nolan
Well the chin spoiler is just the bottom urethane portion cut off and flipped upside down. The parts I will be using for the bucket portion came from another front fascia's parking light ports. I'm unsure if the parking light area of the front fascia is SMC or urethane or not. Any clue?
As I understand it, the panel materials are as follows:
"SMC Sheet Molded Compound was used for the hood, roof, rear upper quarter, and rear decklid.
RRIM Reinforced Reaction Injection Molded urethane was used for fenders, door panels, and lower rear quarters. The rear lowers were later changed to injection molded nylon.
RIM Reaction Injected Molded urethane was used for front and rear fascias.
TPO Thermoplastic Olefin was used for rocker panels."
So the front fascia is a urethane.
Nolan
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04:14 PM
May 7th, 2008
fiero go fast Member
Posts: 1728 From: Royersford, PA Registered: Apr 2002
DAMN! What a thread! You got a + from me, I'd have left you 5 if I could, lol!
What amazing work, and incredible documentation!!!
THANKS!!
------------------ ~Michael
Project IMSA Formula Coming Soon! '85 GT 4sp white - SOLD | | '85 2M6 Auto red - SOLD | | '84 2M4 bare chassis - SOLD Crap, I'm out of Fieros! Time to buy another!! - "Your mileage may vary."
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08:34 AM
May 15th, 2008
ALLTRBO Member
Posts: 2023 From: College Park, MD Registered: Mar 2006
Whoa. Nice deck lid build! :P I'm almost speechless - Where the heck do some of you guys find the time to build things like this? It looks like a full time job plus plenty of overtime.
That car is rolling art.
[This message has been edited by ALLTRBO (edited 05-15-2008).]