Nolan, Where di you get your supplies, I'm going to embark on some body work aswell i was just curious as too where i could pick up supplies cheap.
Thanks, also how do you think you are going to apply your stage 2 mouldings?, i was thinking those self tapping screws along the top of the moulding, and the bottom i would clamp.
Nolan, Where di you get your supplies, I'm going to embark on some body work aswell i was just curious as too where i could pick up supplies cheap.
Thanks, also how do you think you are going to apply your stage 2 mouldings?, i was thinking those self tapping screws along the top of the moulding, and the bottom i would clamp.
Comealongway:
I purchased the body fillers and fiberglass from Partsource and the primer etc. from Calgary Autobody Supply which is by McKnight and 19th. Ave N.E.
It is my understanding that the stage two trim pieces can be attached using urethane adhesive (the stuff they use on windshields) as is bonds well and is flexible.
Fiero1Fan:
Sorry about the withdrawl, I'll see what I can do this week end.
Nolan
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BTW nolan what engineering firm do you work in, I just started at the beginning of May at Fluor in electrical engineering. I just got out of SAIT so im pretty happy, now i can really spend some money on my car
I'm an associate at Wiebe Forest Engineering, a consulting firm with Mechanical, Electrical and Structural disciplines. Here is a link to our website if you're interested:
Ok I have an update! Yes believe it or not it's a real live actual update. I have done some work on the fenders and the stage 2 scoops.
The stage 2 scoops come without any of the mounting holes drilled. You will have to use the stock pieces as a measuring template to mark out the locations on the stage 2 pieces.
Here is the upper edge of the stock panel:
And here is the new panel marked out:
Here is the lower edge of the stock panel:
And the new panel marked out:
I then used my drill press to drill out the holes:
The oval holes and the notches were then cut out using a dremmel tool with a cutoff disk:
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Some additional sanding and prep work was then done and the scoops and fenders were then cleaned for primering. Here are some shots after the primer was applied:
Nolan
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OK! Well I had a minor set back. While cleaning my garage ,as I couldn't stand the dust and the clutter anymore, I killed my cheap POS oiless compressor. See Nice and clean:
Nolan
Let me ask you this...how do you keep the garage so clean with all the sanding dust? My garage...whole house actually is covered in dust after I do any sanding. I can't stand it. How do you deal with it??
By the way the hood look awesome. I did my hood vent and it didn't come out that nice. I had to have it redone by a professional.
Thanks for the compliment! I know what you mean about the dust, it really does get everywhere. I'm sure that I will be finding it for years to come. I had to stop work and clean up as I just couldn't stand it anymore. It didn't get into the house though as the garage isn't attached.
Nolan
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10:25 PM
PFF
System Bot
Jun 1st, 2006
fiero-iwan Member
Posts: 352 From: Eindhoven,Netherlands,Europe Registered: Mar 2003
LOL i just attempted to put my stage 2 hood scoop on, and i don't think i used enough hardener, it was still tacky this morning. Providing it is dry does it matter how long the glass takes to cure, can i keep it. or even glass overtop of it?
Wait and see if it sets up by this evening. If it doesn't you will likely need to remove it and clean it all up with acetone. I don't think that I would just glass over it. How sticky is it?
Thanks for all your comments everyone. Now that the nice weather is here I have been busy building and planting in our dirt pile of a yard. (Have to keep the spousal unit happy )
Edit: Comealongway do you have any pictures to post? Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 06-02-2006).]
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04:14 PM
Jun 3rd, 2006
Comealongway Member
Posts: 586 From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2002
Well it took me longer to clean it up then it did to actuatlly glass the part in. It looks alright, PIP will not install on my computer i have no idea why, runtime error number 13, any ideas?
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07:12 PM
Jun 5th, 2006
Comealongway Member
Posts: 586 From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2002
What is the green stuff you are applying to fix the imprefections in the stage 2 side scoops, I have bondo glass that i plan to use to finish off my front hood vent, do you recommend using that?, also what product of urethane adhesive are you planning to use to adhere the fiberglass pieces from your stage 2 side scoops to your doors and fenders?
Thanks a lot and keep up the good work.
I'll try to provide pictures mayeb I'll use photobucket or something when i get home.
[This message has been edited by Comealongway (edited 06-05-2006).]
The "green stuff" is the Evercoat filler; I posted a picture on a previous page showing the can.
What ever product you decide to use make sure it’s SMC compatible for your hood. It should indicate it on the container or the manufacturer's web site,
I have not spent much time investigating the urethane adhesive, I was going to go to Calgary Autobody Supplies to see what they would recommend.
Nolan
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03:13 PM
Comealongway Member
Posts: 586 From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2002
I had a look at your pictures. If I may offer some advice, the fiberglass will not stick to the painted (black) surfaces. You will need to remove all the black so that it has the SMC to stick to.
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 06-08-2006).]
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02:17 AM
PFF
System Bot
Comealongway Member
Posts: 586 From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2002
In the picture it looks like it is bonded on the sides where the black is, but it is actually fed underneath, I'll take pictures later, I also glassed the top in some areas.
OK, I did a little investigation on the adhesive for the stage 2 door/fender strips.
The guys at the body shop supply store recommended that a urethane sealer/adhesive be used, the product that they have is Proform PF 224 and according to the tube it is:
- Recommended for applications that may be under stress and vibrations. - It's a high density urethane sealer that eliminates shrinking often found in solvent and rubber based sealers. It can also be used as an adhesive for metal, plastic and fiberglass. - Paintable in 30 minutes. - Also sandable.
Here's a picture:
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]
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03:27 PM
Jun 13th, 2006
Comealongway Member
Posts: 586 From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2002
Nolan I've done a lot in the last few days here is my progress, i have no progress on the side scoops however. My battery box was cut and placed in a 10 x 10 hole, this keeps the battery higher up, i plan to face the terminals towards the back of the car, this way i could clear my 1 1/4 sway bar and also clear for 2 steering dampers. The decklid was cut and shaped slightly different to clear my timing chain cover on my swap, and my hood scoop just needs to be smoothed out.
I'm going to start doing the door strips for the stage two scoops. In order to make sure the strips are properly aligned with the scoop I needed to temporarily install the scoops in their proper locations. I also wanted to try and visualize how the whole car is going to look once it is finished so I placed the various panels and facias in position just to have a look.
Here is a before shot of the car prior to doing any body modifications except for removing the wing:
Here are some various shots of the car now:
I think the changes are quite subtle but I like it. What do you all think?
One thing I realized is that I'm going to need to do the hinge pins on the doors. They have a slight sag and the door molding doesn't line up with the quarter panel molding groove. Pretty soon I'm going to be able to start putting some things back together, Yay!!!
I do think that I need to do something to the front facia, not quite sure what yet though. Any suggestions?
Nolan
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03:25 PM
RCR Member
Posts: 4409 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
this may have been asked before, but is it possible to use this vent on a notchback rear decklid?
thanks!
------------------ Brandon Edmonds
1996 Taurus SHO (my baby) 1986 Fiero (to be my street rocket) 1977 yamaha xs750-2D (in pieces right now, doesnt appear that it will be done for summer, unfortunately) 1987 Kawasaki Ninja 250R (learners bike)
I'm pretty sure you can. The two decklids are roughly the same width between the vents. I'm basing this off the fact that I took the recall weatherstrip off my notchback parts car and installed it on my GT driver and it all lined up the same.
Hey Nolan where did you purchase your power wire from for your battery, I found autovalue for 3 dollars a foot 1AWG (copper), and out of Visions 3 dollars a foot for 4AWG (silver). Did you find anywhere cheaper, i tried princess auto to see it they maybe had some welding cables, but they where out, not sure if they had what i wanted anyways.
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04:09 PM
fierosound Member
Posts: 15188 From: Calgary, Canada Registered: Nov 1999
I do think that I need to do something to the front facia, not quite sure what yet though. Any suggestions?
Leave the fascia alone. The changes you've made are subtle and will enhance the car's original lines. Because the fascia is essentially the "face of the car" anything major done to it may push it up one notch to that "just one thing too many" category. There's many car owners (especially ricers) who didn't know when to stop and wound up wrecking the looks of their car.
After some thought, I too have come to the conclusion that the front facia is fine as is. I also agree that it's quite easy to go too far. How was the car show by the way?
quote
Originally posted by Comealongway:
Hey Nolan where did you purchase your power wire from for your battery, I found autovalue for 3 dollars a foot 1AWG (copper), and out of Visions 3 dollars a foot for 4AWG (silver). Did you find anywhere cheaper, i tried princess auto to see it they maybe had some welding cables, but they where out, not sure if they had what i wanted anyways.
Comealongway:
I have not yet started the installation of the battery box so I have yet to do any research into the cables. It sounds like you have though, let me know what you decide to go with. Out of curiosity have you tried any of the welding supply shops in town to see what they carry?
Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]
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12:45 AM
Comealongway Member
Posts: 586 From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2002
I have been doing some work on my car as of late however, not on the body. I was thinking of starting a new thread but what the heck I will just continue to post in this one.
Lately i have been working on the suspension and I am finally at the point where I can start putting things back together for a change rather than just tearing stuff apart. Progress is being made!!!
You know, The only thing that was "wrong" with my car was that the clutch blew out. Here's the thread about it: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...041015-2-049172.html All I had to do was replace the clutch and I would have been good to go. But, NOOOO, maybe I'll do and engine swap once the cradle is out. But then I need to add some side scoops. Or change the deck lid, or the hood. Of course the suspension needs to be done, bigger brakes....
*Sigh* Anyways, here is the condition of the front suspension when I started. The right side:
And the left side:
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As you can see, lots of general clean up is required but over all the rust is minimal. In order to neutralize the rust I am using a product called Rust Mort (the green liquid). This product reacts with the rust rendering it inert and the color change from "rust" to "black" indicates that the process is complete. I clean the part off first and wire brush it to get rid of the really crusty chunks. After the Rust Mort is applied I usually let it sit overnight before I wash it off.
This stuff is an acid so make sure you wear eye protection and rubber gloves when using it.
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]
After the pieces are cleaned they are then given a prime coat.
And while all that was going on the wheel well itself was cleaned and painted.
And we of course had to have the ubiquitous "burning of the bushings" ritual/festival with great fire light and chanting in a circle as we burn the bejeebers out of the control arms. All this is necessarily done in secret to avoid angering the Eco-terrorists by producing great clouds of black acrid smoke which rise high into the sky as a blight upon the skyline of our fair city.
The control arms were then primed and painted with little ceremony:
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I did have one hitch though. When I was removing the sway bar one of the bolts on the left side chassis bearing broke off almost flush with the underside of the space frame. There was a little bit sticking out but not enough that any of my tools could grab onto it. I did try welding a nut onto it by placing a nut over the bolt shaft and welding the nut to the bolt shaft through the hole in the nut. After about a dozen or so attempts ( ) at that point I gave up on that method. Welding upside down is not nearly so easy as "normal" welding. I could get it welded but not strong enough, it would just spin off.
OK, so then I tried to drill it out and use an easy out. No luck there. These bolts are hard little suckers and even though I did manage to get a strait pilot hole that was more or less centered but when I went to a larger bit I totally messed it up. *sigh*
The third method was to cut open the side of the frame where the bolt and interior nut are. Using a thin cutting disk in the angle grinder I cut out three sides of a square leaving the bottom attached and bent it out to expose the culprit. The remaining bolt shaft was protruding through the nut and I was able to weld a nut on it and extract it though the top of the nut. Sorry no pictures, I was too busy looking for thing to throw around the shop, I didn't want the camera to be one of them.
Once the bolt was out I hammered the opening flap back into place and welded it shut, primed and painted. Voila:
Thats it for tonight. Nolan
[This message has been edited by Sourmug (edited 05-27-2007).]