The injector is leaking when you turn the car off so it floods the cylinder?

$.02

Update

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Well with the noid light installed, I was able to prove that the injectors are getting a signal to fire while the engine is warm. However the light is quite faint, like 1/3 the brightness when compared to the brightness flashes while the engine is running - is this normal? I was expecting it to be dimmer while cranking but not that faint. It still starts on quik start, so I'll back to suspecting the Optispark, Optispark harness or the charging system.
Next I'm going to try a new battery with a much higher CCA rating or maybe even a deep cycle type. The reason I am thinking this is because if I shut it off warm it is now restarting if I try it immediately. I can do this about 3-4 times in a row before it goes back to a no start condition. After the next 3-4 tries with no success, the cranking speed drops dramatically. Keep in mind that I still don't believe it's a heat soaked starter as mine isn't in the stock location and I'm using hugger shorty headers that don't pass near the starter.

Any further suggestion or questions would be appreciated.

Ryan

WOW Nice Build

How is the Por15 working you. I am thinking about using it for my project when i refinish the birdcage top and bottom. but i am still looking around for other stuff to use

quote Originally posted by ProjectPb: WOW Nice Build How is the Por15 working you. I am thinking about using it for my project when i refinish the birdcage top and bottom. but i am still looking around for other stuff to use

Thanks, welcome to the forum...
So far the front suspension in POR15 is holding up well - it doesn't work well unless you prep well - I would use it again in the future probably on the cradle since the cheap truck bed liner spray didn't hold up as good as I had hoped.

Some good news:

"I'm not sure if I've found the root cause yet, but after installing a 875 CCA battery today and removing the 650 CCA unit, I haven't been able to get it to not start when hot. So for now the problem seems to bandaided as I was able to restart the engine a dozen times with no issues from normal temp all the way up to hot on the guage. The new battery definately cranks the Powermaster 9004 starter quicker than the Optimax Red Top did."

With that problem disappearing, I decided to clean the Beretta rims I got from Bubbajoe to install on the Roadster.
I had the Toyo tires installed on them - hmmm, since the SHREK colour doesn't match, I plan to repaint them black or graphite before installation.
Here they are cleaned up:




If anyone wants my stock rims and tires, send me a PM.
They are good for storing your Fiero on and I'm asking $50 for the set with trim rings and centre caps:




Of course I got more Fiero goodies while visiting Bubbajoe to go towards the Roadster project:

Heavy duty sway bars front and rear:




Accel Super Coil:




Blower motor to keep my engine bay cooler:




And a "Trick or Treat" box of other good stuff:




Bubba - hoping to bring the stretch up to your place Friday to go for a ride, return your noid lights, and complete the hood swap.
Just bracing the battery tray first and then I'll be good to go.
Ryan

This afternoon (after the Formula 1 qualifying of course) I worked on my new rims for the Roadster.

After a good cleaning, they were sanded with 80-220 grit to promote adhesion and recleaned to remove any grease:




Next I masked the tires, the aluminum rings are pretty marked up so I decided to paint everything but the rubber:




I chose Graphic Metallic as I think it will compliment a black exterior:




I think they came out pretty good for free rims - I'll mount them soon to see what they look like in the daylight on the car.

Fiero2m8

Sunday I swapped the rims and tires, refilled/burped the cooling system and changed a leaky I/B axle boot.

I am gaining about an inch of ride height ground clearance to the K-frame with this setup:




Northstar stretch is supervising the work...




Like many of you, I'm getting good at R/R of an axle - it's out in a matter of minutes:




New axle boot kit installed and rear suspension back together:




I should have some pics of the rims on the car by tomorrow.

Looking good!

Thanks GM!

Here he is with the new rims (without new lugs and centre caps yet).




I added 3/4" ground clearance...


but REALLY filled the wheelwells as (suggested above)




Unfortunately at full lock turning or under hard braking, (if there is such a thing with stock brakes ) the tires do rub the fender flares.
The last time I had these tires on was prior to lowering springs and they didn't rub.
So I prepped a pair of 84 Indy springs I had taken out of the Northstar Stretch.
Next, I painted them to colout match the HT Motorsports rear adjustable coilovers:




Here they are ready for the spring swap - should be a relatively quick job since the front suspension was rebuilt last winter:




The rears will be easier because I will adjust the spring seats until the car sits level:




The last time I had the rear ride height higher, I damaged an axle boot on the short drivers side:




Since I don't want to repeat that - before I proceed, I'm going to lower the transmission.
The mod will be a shorter solid trans mount to replace the taller Caddy rubber one.
Here's a pic of the mount I'm referring to:




If I can't find something suitable I'll make one, although it looks like I can't go much lower without creating a clearance issue between the axle boot and the cradle:




I've been meaning to replace the trans mount anyways because I don't like the idea of mixed mounts (the front engine mount is an Archie solid mount).

Ride height adjustments complete.
Front springs installed:




Didn't lower trans as upon closer inspection, it is already dropped as far as possible and new CV boots are holding up well and not leaking:




Rear coilovers were raised 10 rotations each side (approx 1 inch):



Here are a few shots of the finished ride height - there is now one finger space from the top of tire to fender flare at all four corners.
Tires are tucked inside flares enough that clearance issues are now solved:

Today I uncovered the Roadster and fired it up and after a warm up period went for a cruise!
I covered about 20 miles with a mixture of city/highway driving.
Yes it was only just above freezing out but very sunny.
I've never had an issue staying warm as the heater and LT1 kept me so warm I didn't need a coat.
I just wore a Michigan University hoodie but I did keep the windows up for once.

The test drive went well, as no tire clearance issue, engine ran smooth with no stalling - I think it likes the cold weather!
Then I worked on the no start when warm condition.
I was able to get the no start condition to happen idling the car for 10-15 minutes then letting it sit in its own heat for 5 minutes with the decklid closed.
With the theory of vaporizing fuel being the cause, I pulled the intake off and gave one shot of fuel in each side of the throttle body using a spray bottle.
Turning the key after that and it fired to life instantly and kept idling fine.
A repeatedly the test a few more times to make sure it wasn't a fluke and it solved the problem each time.

Next I'm going to reroute the fuel lines so they don't pass above the wrapped header (maybe through the insulated trunk instead).
Then I'm going to install this electric blower to suck the heat out of the engine compartment and exhaust out the back of the lower trunk.




My plan is to complete this Roadster project by the spring and use as my driving Fiero this year.
Then I can focus on the planned mods for the Northstar Stretch Hatchback project.
Fiero2m8

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Indy Northstar-Stretch ~ LT1-NOS Roadster

The fuel system was rerouted and new filter installed and although that was a good idea anyways, it didn't solve the problem.
I really should have known because the fuel lines always were fine before the engine developed this condition about 6 months ago.

The problem is still there when warm and it also stalls by itself unless kept at a high idle. (1000-1100 rpm vs. 700-800)

I hooked up fuel pressure guage and vacuum guage.
The fuel pressure is always reading 47-48 while cranking and idling.
When it won't start two squirts of fuel in the TB always works to start it.

I spent some time watching the vacuum guage while idling.
The guage moves from 12-15 Hg (just in the green section) right after you start it warm but as soon as the ECM tries to settle the idle down, the vacuum drops to 5Hg and it stalls.
When I raise the idle to 1000-1100 by adjusting the throttle plate it doesn't
stall, but when the throttle plates are closed and the engine is drops below 900 rpm it stalls everytime once the engine is at operating temp.

I might be having problems with the PROM tune or perhaps a vacuum leak?
The engine rebuilder told me that the cam he chose would affect my vacuum but I submitted a new data sheet to have a new PROM made and it worked for almost a year.
Maybe the 48mm TB is too small?

I really am stuck on the diagnosis and don't know what to check next.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Ryan