I pondered this idea a long time ago but never got to it till recently.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...040223-1-029716.html

TO


SAFETY WARNING
Gasoline is flameable
The fiero fuel tank usually has gasoline in it which needs to be evacuated in some form or fashion prior to the application of any open flame, lighers, matches, etc. products which may cause sparks such as electric motors, hand held vibrators electric drills, etc. I also discourage anyone from rubbing sticks together rapidly as this has been known (for a few million years) to cause fire and sparks to occure. Please be aware of static discharge, saint elmos fire and thunderstorms where lightning is present. Wear the appropriate saftey equipment at all times. steel toed boot, long pants, chemical gloves, resperator, socks and underoos. Fuel vapors (gasoline vapors) are very bad in a variety of ways.. and they are flameable.
This has been a safety warning.. You may now read on.

Last week I (while using a static ground wrist strap attached my person, the car and an earth ground)removed the tank from my 88 to replace the fuel pump and noticed quite a bit of fuel left behind after I drained it out (almost 2 gallons into a DOT approved container making sure to clean up any over spill while still wearing all my safety equipment and grounding strap) I found this excess unuseable fuel (which is very flameable) to be unacceptable. It makes sense because even when completely out of gas.. sputt sputt.. gas station now! It only took 10 gallons max. So much for having a 12 gallon tank.

The process..

First thing I did was lower the pump until it touched the bottom.
I did this by removing the lower pump bracket and moved it down about 1/2 inch and reattached it with a good solder, test fitted it / moved it until the FP was on the bottom. I'm not worried about contaminants or water because A TBI with return blasting at the end of the FP intake will remedy that problem.. Actually ALL FP's run for a few seconds, the return tube is the one the PF sits on anyway.. :shruggs: works for me.

The next thing I did was fill the tank with water to remove any fuel then drilled a hole (while the tank still had water in it) just near the top of the tank where it bends over the top.

I inserted a new Stainless vent tube of the same dia into the tank making sure it extended about 8 inches into the tank and slopes downward at roughly the same angle as the OEM. It ends up about 3.5 inches higher than the OEM which is where I drilled the hole in the baffle. That was easy to accomplish because the baffle slides forward. There is about an inch from the top of the filler vent to the top of the tank..

I then soldered the tube in place (with water still in the tank) then crimped the old filler vent tube closed and soldered (with water still in the tank)the end completely.

The three hard lines that ran into the top of the cap leaked like a sieve so I sealed them with heavy solder. (on a bench away from flameable products)

I replaced the rotted hard vapor lines that run to the vapor tank on the right side of the car and replaced the vapor canister.

I put the tank back in and shot a few psi of compressed air into the system. Using soapy water I checked for leaks. None were found I then waited a few hrs then opened the cap.. Swwwwwiiiissshhhhhhhhhhhh... Passed!


I now have about 14 useable gallons... I wont know for sure until the next time I completely fill it. Expansion isn’t much of an issue because I rarely can afford to fill it to that capacity and there is always room for the fuel to back up the filler pipe. By the time I get to where I'm going the level has gone down sufficiently.

No more klicky klicky for me, just one does the trick and 300 miles + till the next fill, that has already been confirmed by my trip odometer.
Example

[This message has been edited by 84Bill (edited 05-12-2007).]

I've wondered about the internal baffles. As I understand it, they're there to keep an ammount of gas around the pump during hard turns/acceleration/braking. Considering that it keeps even more fuel from reaching the pump under normal situations, it seems as though it would benefit from a small hole drilled near the bottom of the baffles to allow fuel to slowly equalize between the sections of the tank.

quote Originally posted by Jax184: I've wondered about the internal baffles. As I understand it, they're there to keep an ammount of gas around the pump during hard turns/acceleration/braking. Considering that it keeps even more fuel from reaching the pump under normal situations, it seems as though it would benefit from a small hole drilled near the bottom of the baffles to allow fuel to slowly equalize between the sections of the tank.

It appears to have ramps... atleast thats what they look like on either side of the baffle. It acts as a well of sorts.. to keep a small amount of the fuel in the center of the tank. The baffle also does as you mentioned by keeping the fuel from sloshing around alot.

I like what you have done. Very nice work.

I have an '86 and do not know how the '87-'88 vent tank works. You have a schematic or pic of that? One day I would like to add the bigger tank (modded like yours) and any info would be appreciated.

[This message has been edited by Hudini (edited 05-09-2007).]

quote Originally posted by Hudini: I like what you have done. Very nice work. I have an '86 and do not know how the '87-'88 vent tank works. You have a schematic or pic of that? One day I would like to add the bigger tank (modded like yours) and any info would be appreciated.

I'm sure it will work the same in the earlier tanks. Capacity wont be as much (as the 87/88 moded) but you will definatly be able to get more into it.

I realize it has ramps. Still seems like it would be good to add a tiny hole near the bottom so that you can squeeze the very last of the gas out of the bottom of the tank. It would only make a difference when the tank is very nearly empty, but that's exactly when you would want that difference the most.

[This message has been edited by Jax184 (edited 05-09-2007).]

quote Originally posted by Jax184:

Hummm...... You might have a point there since I lowered the pump to it's max. There is a tab on the inside of the screen that keeps it about 1/4 inch from the bottom and the 88 tank I have does have a stamped depression in that area... hummmm...

nice work, but keep in mind that the gasoline acts as a coolent to cool the fuel pump
when the fuel gauge is empty on a stock tank and there is truley 2 gal left(or whatever amt it is) the fuel left in the tank is cooling the pump

if you run the tank to full empty i think its gonna shorten the life of your fuel pump, they do get hot

Believe it or not I was thinking about lowering the pump as far as possible over the passed few days since when my gauge is reading empty or close to it I usually have nearly 2 gal left and when I fill my tank up for long drives which I do regularly now I fill it as far as it will go so expansion is something I would have to keep in mind.

I purchased a late model fuel assembly a while back and noted the new design shroud incorporated around the pump that uses a one-way gate entrance for the fuel, when it enters the gated enclosure the only way out is through the pump so there is very little shifting of fuel away from the pump on hard cornering, one of these could possibly be adapted in place of the old baffle attached to the tank to make the modification even better. One of my long term goals is to make my car a 300 plus mile per tank fill car.

The fuel pump is NOT cooled by the fuel around it. Well, it is some of the time, but it's main form of cooling is the gasoline being pumped THROUGH it. This mod should make the pump last Longer, since the car is less likely to run out of pumpable fuel as often.

quote Originally posted by Joseph Upson: I purchased a late model fuel assembly a while back and noted the new design shroud incorporated around the pump that uses a one-way gate entrance for the fuel, when it enters the gated enclosure the only way out is through the pump so there is very little shifting of fuel away from the pump on hard cornering, one of these could possibly be adapted in place of the old baffle attached to the tank to make the modification even better. One of my long term goals is to make my car a 300 plus mile per tank fill car.

The baffle supports the vent and filler tubes so removing it completely would mean fabricating something to hold them up. I DO like that fuel trap idea..

Where did you get it from.. it may be worth removing my tank and making the necessary mods / removing the baffle all together.

I'm at 316 mile since my last fill.. mostly highway driving... the guage is showing 1/4 and is moving when I stop and start meaning there is still plenty there. I wouldnt go more than 50 miles with it at this point but it looks like it may just get there.

I'll keep everyone posted on the top off gallons.. but first.. gainful employment is in order.

While I was working with the baffle I noticed it shouldnt be too hard to break it up and pull it out thru the bung hole.

[This message has been edited by 84Bill (edited 05-09-2007).]

I found a good deal on an GM 8100 V8 fuel rail and intank fuel pump assembly which I believe GM started on nearly all of its cars in the late 90s to where you have to replace the pump as an assembly now which means the fuel level sending unit gets replaced to, much more expensive than just buying a pump by itself. This is also part of the newer returnless fuel system which I'll be converting to with my swop by removing the 3 tube regulator from the 8100 rail and setting it up down stream from the engine away from heat.

Hummm.. might take me a few more years of plotting but that sounds like a plan.

quote Originally posted by 84Bill: The next thing I did was fill the tank with water to remove any fuel then drilled a hole just near the top of the tank where it bends over the top.

Just to clarify for others; water does NOT wash out any gas that may remain in the tank. It could have blown if you introduced an open flame or too much heat.
Whenever I have to work (weld) on a tank, I wash it out with laquer thinner, & run an air line in for a while to dry out everything. Then, I always introduce an open flame from around a corner of the building to make sure it's OK. :-) I have rarely had them "poof" on me...
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Of all the things I've lost over the years, I miss my mind the most!

The way I understood it was that he was filling the tank up with water to displace the air. I've known a few people that work on tanks this way. You leave the water in, thus no air, thus no boom.

------------------
-Chris
'85 V6 SE 4sp (SOLD)
'88 GT Auto (fun car)
'03 Sentra SE-R Spec V (Daily driver)

And gas is lighter than water. Any gas rises to the top and leaves the tank once its overflowing with water. I've filled and welded gas tanks before with no problem.

You're drawing that you made only applies if the tank was sealed. However, being that its not, that drawing doesn't apply. If you notice out of the top of the gas tank, theres 3 lines? Fuel Out, Return line, and vent line. The vent line lets the pressure escape so you can fill that bad boy to the top.

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: Just to clarify for others; water does NOT wash out any gas that may remain in the tank.

Incorrect. It does flush out the remaining fuel and in particular THE VAPOR which is the #1 potential problem.

quote It could have blown if you introduced an open flame or too much heat.

Well thats funny because that is EXACTLY what I did. MAPP gas torch blasting an open flame right into a hole.

[This message has been edited by 84Bill (edited 05-10-2007).]

quote Originally posted by RandomTask: You're drawing that you made only applies if the tank was sealed. However, being that its not, that drawing doesn't apply. If you notice out of the top of the gas tank, theres 3 lines? Fuel Out, Return line, and vent line. The vent line lets the pressure escape so you can fill that bad boy to the top.

yes, another part of the mod was raising the vent line, so you can fill the tank more before the vent gets blocked by fuel & causes backpressure in the fill neck, making the gas pump handle click off.

quote Originally posted by RandomTask: If you notice out of the top of the gas tank, theres 3 lines? Fuel Out, Return line, and vent line. The vent line lets the pressure escape so you can fill that bad boy to the top.

The vent line is too small to allow for displacement of air while fueling. It is also closed (at the vapor cannister) when the engine is off. You will have to go through many klicks of the filler nozzle to fill it to the top.


On a side note when I pressure tested the tank I did so thru the vapor recovery vent on the tank. All other connections were made. fuel supply and return, filler and filler vent.

[This message has been edited by 84Bill (edited 05-10-2007).]

This might be a stupid question. Don't you have to relocate the filler tube higher in the side of the tank also? Wouldn't the level of the fuel try to equalize between the tank and the filler neck and only go that high? This is the same principle as a water-level used during home / deck construction. Maybe I am way off here.

quote Originally posted by rjblaze: This might be a stupid question. Don't you have to relocate the filler tube higher in the side of the tank also? Wouldn't the level of the fuel try to equalize between the tank and the filler neck and only go that high? This is the same principle as a water-level used during home / deck construction. Maybe I am way off here.

No..not really because the filler tube is lower than the filler vent anyway. Whats another couple of inches going to do? There is another foot to a foot and a half before gets close enough to the filler cap to cause a problem. The real problem is fuel in the cannister on the left. Fuel in the cannister will destroy the charcoal and that is the purpose of that tank on the right side, it acts as an accumulator. Getting fuel up high enough to fill it is highly unlikely.


It will cause the fuel to back up into the filler another couple of inches but again thats just more fuel in the system that can be used.


I got this idea because I was tired of the restricted range and unuseable fuel and thats just dead weight in my eyes.

At 27 MPG max highway I could range about 270 miles (more like 250) before I absolutly had to stop. Now I'm getting well over that, at present my range to date is 316 on a tank and thats not 100% highway driving.

My philosophy is you can never have too much fuel unless you are on fire..

[This message has been edited by 84Bill (edited 05-10-2007).]

GEEZ!!!!! It looks like another great mod I am going to need to make to "Thunder". I got an '88 tank from someone a while ago and it's been sitting in my garage for quite a while so the "fumes" should all be gone....real easy to mod. Thanks for the great idea......You are right you can never have too much!

Just a thought here about problems with over filling the tank, the 87 and 88's had an extra tank in the vent line to allow for expansion so raw fuel would not end up in the charcoal canister causing possible engine bay fires. With this mod the tank would be completely filled with fuel not allowing for any expansion due to changes in temperature causing the fuel to end up in the charcoal canister. This is one problem that caused GM to add in fuel tank pressure sensors in 98 and newer cars so that extra pressure could be vented off by the evap vent solenoid. Dan

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nice mod.
2 points for the others:
you can;t do this if you don;t have the 87/88 expansion tank in the fender well, if you do, you risk getting raw gass leaking thru the charcoal canister. that is the reason this mod does work for Bill, he will never get gas into that tank and out the top then to the charcoal canister.

next, a word of caution on tank welding, while many get away with doing things half-assed, many more get hurt.
water will not remove all gas from the tank, it is in the metal pores fo the tank, and will come out as vapor when heated. the best way to weld a tank is to use a steam genny to keep the tank filled with water vapor it will sweat out the gas and carry it out with the water vapor. after that there are other methods, as in filling the tank with nitrogen or other inert gas to displace oxygen.
using plain water you can fill the tank to displace the air, but there is always some exposure to sweating the gas fumes out and igniting them, you;re just minimizing the potential explosive mix. thoroughly washing the tank with a baffle safe solvent, then washing it out agian with a degreasing soap and water. an aged tank sotred open and in a warm area for a few years tho is pretty safe.

quote Originally posted by 84Bill: Incorrect. It does flush out the remaining fuel and in particular THE VAPOR which is the #1 potential problem. Well thats funny because that is EXACTLY what I did. MAPP gas torch blasting an open flame right into a hole.

I'm going to say this again & I DON'T LIE: Water does NOT wash fuel out of a gas tank. I had a friend that ran water through a Harley tank for two hours + one day (overflowing it, & shaking it, etc...), & then he (like an idiot) checked it with a lighter. It WOOSHED out a flame for about three seconds(!), & burnt the hair from his hand & a little on his face.
It *is* OK to completely fill it with water as long as you don't have air pockets, but make *sure* you don't have any air pockets as they can still hold vapor (& that's what burns).
If you had open areas/air pockets you're *damn* lucky you didn't get burned.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Scientists say we only use 20% of our brains. But if they're only using 20%, how would they know?

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: I'm going to say this again & I DON'T LIE: Water does NOT wash fuel out of a gas tank. I had a friend that ran water through a Harley tank for two hours + one day (overflowing it, & shaking it, etc...), & then he (like an idiot) checked it with a lighter. It WOOSHED out a flame for about three seconds(!), & burnt the hair from his hand & a little on his face. It *is* OK to completely fill it with water as long as you don't have air pockets, but make *sure* you don't have any air pockets as they can still hold vapor (& that's what burns). If you had open areas/air pockets you're *damn* lucky you didn't get burned. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Scientists say we only use 20% of our brains. But if they're only using 20%, how would they know?

water DOES wash fuel out. just not all of it. quite obvious proof right here in the fact that it was done. water & gas dont mix. so this means the water will NOT dissolve the gas & carry it away. but it WILL displace it. this means any gas caught somewhere that the gas cant get displaced will remain. seams, cracks, pores, etc. may not be gas free. and, as your silly bud found out - dont think it'll be gas free instantly. when the water is dry - the remaining gas will have evap'd too.

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: water DOES wash fuel out. just not all of it. quite obvious proof right here in the fact that it was done. water & gas dont mix. so this means the water will NOT dissolve the gas & carry it away. but it WILL displace it. this means any gas caught somewhere that the gas cant get displaced will remain. seams, cracks, pores, etc. may not be gas free. and, as your silly bud found out - dont think it'll be gas free instantly. when the water is dry - the remaining gas will have evap'd too.

Well I guess I really don't know that much about it: I've only been welding on gas tanks for about 40 years. I've heard of them exploding after some one washed them out with water. Not something I'm going to take a chance with.
I've given fair warning. Anyone that chooses to ignore it is not my problem. Just do it before you breed - we don't need more stupid kids running around! LOL! ( - it's a JOKE!)
Really the *best* way to clean them for welding (or any work that creates heat) is to wash them with laquer thinner (to remove/dissolve the gas), & then dry them out completely with an air hose. The laquer thinner with evaporate very quickly.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

I'd love to help you out - which way did you come in?

[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 05-11-2007).]

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: Well I guess I really don't know that much about it: I've only been welding on gas tanks for about 40 years. I've heard of them exploding after some one washed them out with water. Not something I'm going to take a chance with. I've given fair warning. Anyone that chooses to ignore it is not my problem. Just do it before you breed - we don't need more stupid kids running around! LOL! ( - it's a JOKE!) Really the *best* way to clean them for welding (or any work that creates heat) is to wash them with laquer thinner (to remove/dissolve the gas), & then dry them out completely with an air hose. The laquer thinner with evaporate very quickly. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" I'd love to help you out - which way did you come in?

I am not disagreeing with you. you are correct.

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: I'm going to say this again & I DON'T LIE: Water does NOT wash fuel out of a gas tank. I had a friend that ran water through a Harley tank for two hours + one day (overflowing it, & shaking it, etc...), & then he (like an idiot) checked it with a lighter.

Oh jesus


I DISPLACED the fuel and vaopr that remained in the tank with water. Fuel floats ON water.. Water gets into nooks and crannies and displaces the fuel IE forcing it out.

I failed to mention that the tank was nearly full of water as I worked on it however it was not completely full as you suggest because that would make it impossible to heet the metal up to braze or in my case solder so an "air pocket" must exist.
In any case I flushed the tank with water, left it nearly full,

took it ouside into an open area and tried to set it on fire. No kaboom, no singed hair, no fire at all.

I'm not going to say that the possibility of flashover doesnt exist but it is significantly reduced if one FLUSHES the tank with water or something of similar innert ilk before sticking an open flame inside.... To not do so is just plain stupid.


NOTE:
Lacquer thinner poses inhalation risks and can be absorbed into the skin.
Please take the necessary precautions and recomendation on the container.
Use it in a well venalated area and wear chemical gloves to minimize contact with exposed skin.

I think those guys are just watching out for some of the "slower" members here, who wouldn't think of the BOOM possibility before putting an open flame near an empty tank---- "it was empty doc, honest!"
while there are alot of decent mechanics here, there are a few that hold the wrong end of a screwdriver and whose mantra while wrenching is lefty loosy righty tighty. whenever writing up something, assume an idiot is reading it, cause he/she probably is.

quote Originally posted by 84Bill: Oh jesus I DISPLACED the fuel and vaopr that remained in the tank with water. Fuel floats ON water.. Water gets into nooks and crannies and displaces the fuel IE forcing it out. I failed to mention that the tank was nearly full of water as I worked on it however it was not completely full as you suggest because that would make it impossible to heet the metal up to braze or in my case solder so an "air pocket" must exist. I'm not going to say that the possibility of flashover doesnt exist but it is significantly reduced if one FLUSHES the tank with water or something of similar innert ilk before sticking an open flame inside.... To not do so is just plain stupid. NOTE: Lacquer thinner poses inhalation risks and can be absorbed into the skin. Please take the necessary precautions and recomendation on the container. Use it in a well venalated area and wear chemical gloves to minimize contact with exposed skin.

Like tjm4fun said I was trying to look out for the less experienced folks here. Remember when I said in my first post "Just to clarify for others"?
BTW I wash my hands with laquer thinner several times a day & it do do dosen't bo bo bother me at all at all. :-p
Most folks *do* have to be careful with it as it's very aggressive & highly flamible. Funny how you felt a need to mention that but took offense when I posted a caution about using water to "wash out" a gas tank... ;-)
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Pardon my driving; I'm reloading.

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: Like tjm4fun said I was trying to look out for the less experienced folks here. Remember when I said in my first post "Just to clarify for others"? BTW I wash my hands with laquer thinner several times a day & it do do dosen't bo bo bother me at all at all. :-p Most folks *do* have to be careful with it as it's very aggressive & highly flamible. Funny how you felt a need to mention that but took offense when I posted a caution about using water to "wash out" a gas tank... ;-) ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Pardon my driving; I'm reloading.

I thank you for your attempts at protecting others from their own stupidity however.... If the reason for your sounding off was for safety reasons you need to be alittle more careful because what you feel is safe isnt necessarily safe.

I did amend my first post with a safety warning.. thank you for your contribution.

quote Acrylic Lacquer Thinner. WARNING USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. THESE PRODUCTS ARE FLAMEABLE, KEEP AWAY FROM HEAT, SPARKS, AND OPEN FLAMES. AVOID PROLONGED BREATHING OF VAPOR OR SPRAY MIST. USE ONLY WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION. IN CASE OF SKIN CONTACT, FLUSH WITH WATER, FOR EYES FLUSH WITH PLENTY OF WATER FOR 15 MINUTES AND GET MEDICAL ATTENTION. IF AFFECTED BY INHALATION OF VAPOR, REMOVE TO FRESH AIR. WEAR PROPER RESPIRATOR. IF SWALLOWED CALL A PHYSICAN IMMEDIATELY. DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING. CONTAINS KETONE, ACETATES, AND TOLUENE SOLVENTS. AIRBORNE PEARL IS A LUNG AND EYE IRRITANT.

Does that say FLAMEABLE and IN CASE OF SKIN CONTACT?

quote Warning from Product Label: Warning: Use of this product will expose you to benzene which is known to cause cancer and to toluol which is known to cause birth defects or other reproductive harm. Hazards: Danger! Poison! Vapor Harmful. May affect the brain or nervous system causing dizziness, headaches or nausea. Causes eye, skin, nose and throat irritation. May be harmful if absorbed through skin. Cannot be made non poisonous. Precautions: Vapor may cause flash fire and ignite explosively. Keep away from heat, sparks and flame. Do not smoke. Prevent build up of vapor by opening all windows and doors to achieve cross ventilation. If you can smell even a weak solvent odor, there is a real fire risk. Vapors may spread long distances. Do not use this product for any use that requires quantities of product to be spread over large surfaces (more than 4 square feet). The potential for fire and health effects increases dramatically. For any use that requires spreading over a large surface, use a non-flammable product. Use only with adequate ventilation. Do not breath vapor or spray mist. Ensure fresh air entry during application and drying. If you experience eye watering, headaches or dizziness or if air monitoring demonstrates vapor/mist levels are above applicable limits, wear appropriate, properly fitted respirator (NIOSH/MSHA approved) during and after application. Follow respirator manufacturer's directions for respirator use. Close container after each use. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. Wash thoroughly after handling. First Aid: If you experience difficulty breathing, leave the area to obtain fresh air. If continued difficulty is experienced, get medical assistance immediately. Remove contaminated clothing and shoes. Get medical attention immediately. Wash clothes before reuse. Thoroughly clean contaminated shoes. If swallowed, get medical attention, immediately. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling the contents may be harmful or fatal. In case of eye contact, immediately flush with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes and get medical attention immediately. For skin, wash thoroughly with soap and water.. Call a physician immediately. Notice: Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational over exposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling the contents may be harmful or fatal. If spilled, contain spilled material and remove with inert absorbent. Dispose of contaminated absorbent, container and unused contents in accordance with local, state and federal regulations. Keep out of reach of children. (#2215, metal container) Acute Health Effects: From MSDS Inhalation: While this material has a low degree of toxicity, breathing high concentrations of vapors or mists may cause irritation of the nose and throat, signs of nervous system depression (e.g., headaches, drowsiness, dizziness, loss of coordination and fatigue), nausea and vomiting. Eye Contact: One or more components of this material is an eye irritant. Direct contact with the liquid or exposure to vapors or mists may cause stinging, tearing, redness, and swelling. Skin Contact: One or more components of this material is a skin irritant. Direct contact with the liquid or exposure to vapors or mists may cause redness and burning, drying and cracking of the skin and skin damage. Contact may result in skin absorption but symptoms of toxicity are not anticipated by this route alone under normal conditions of use. Ingestion: One or more components of this material is toxic and may be harmful if swallowed. Effects of overexposure may include irritation of the digestive tract, signs of nervous system depression (e.g., headache, drowsiness, dizziness, loss of coordination and fatigue), visual disturbances (including blindness), convulsions, coma, death and diarrhea. Medical Conditions Generally Aggravated by Exposure: Respiratory symptoms associated with pre existing lung disorders (e.g., asthma-like conditions) may be aggravated by exposure to this material. Persons with preexisting skin disorders may be more susceptible to the effects of this material. Preexisting blood and liver disorders may be aggravated by exposure to this material. Persons with preexisting heart disorders may be more susceptible to irregular heartbeats (arrhythmias) if exposed to high concentrations of this material. Chronic Health Effects: MSDS: Use of this product will expose you to benzene which is known to cause cancer and to toluene which is known to cause birth defects or other reproductive harm. Carcinogenicity: MSDS: Exposure to benzene is known to cause cancer. (California Prop 65). Health Rating: 2 Flammability Rating: 3 Reactivity Rating: 0 HMIS Rating Scale: 0 = Minimal; 1 = Slight; 2 = Moderate; 3 = Serious; 4 = Severe; N = No information provided by manufacturer; * = Chronic Health Hazard MSDS Date: 1994-05-16

I'd advise you to not wash your hands with Lacquer Thinner.. Better to use water.

[This message has been edited by 84Bill (edited 05-12-2007).]

oh i gotta get on this ,great mod

quote Originally posted by 87SEV6Reborn05: oh i gotta get on this ,great mod

It is a great mod.. I had to put in about 5 bux in fuel today (just in case) and my odo was at 345... I'm extatic!

Oh be sure to read the safety warning about fuel (gasoline) vapors

Now that the safety issues have been addressed, does it hold more fuel?

quote Originally posted by carnut122: Now that the safety issues have been addressed, does it hold more fuel?

Yes it definatly holds more gas. My previous max range before the utterance of prayer was 250 miles.

Exactly how much it holdswill not be known until I fill it up again.. which wont be happening soon since my income is a tad strained at the moment.. unemployed. :/

But the first fill did take in the area of 14 gallons and it is definatly pulling more out of the tank.

[This message has been edited by 84Bill (edited 05-13-2007).]

quote Originally posted by 84Bill: I'd advise you to not wash your hands with Lacquer Thinner.. Better to use water.

Too late: been doing that for nearly 40 years too (most people can't). Water dosen't wash off paint or even grease as well & I have to keep grease off the things I'm working on to paint. It DOES help you find any new cuts IMMEDIATLY (!), & if I use it on my arms after any irritant like fiberglass it burns like hell. (so I don't do that :-)
The cuts don't hurt at all after cleaning them with thinner, though... and they seem to heal quickly...
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Easy on the Giggle Cream!

[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 05-13-2007).]

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver:

Jesus man.....

Any updates. I think you are the first person on this forum to figure out how to actually get more gas into the tank by modification.

And this forum has been around for years. MY CONGRATULATIONS to you. A lot of members are too Raphly (as in Nader) to mod the gas tank.

Meanwhile, I hope you are obtaining good results with your job search.