I bought a full factory subwoofer kit off ebay some time ago. It was complete with amp, subwoofer, and original wire harness. I was pretty happy with the thoroughness of the instructions. Everything went together just it was meant to be there, but it sounds funny. Like a bad speaker.



I would say the "made in China" sticker is a dead give away that it is not original. At least not back then anayway.

Speaker looks new, but I do not think it is original. The moving of the slider control does nothing. Niether does the fader or balance controls.

Here is a video/audio file of the sound. Pretty nastsy sounding.

http://s12.photobucket.com/...current=MVI_1913.flv

Can someone help me troubleshoot this thing?

[This message has been edited by sjmaye (edited 05-28-2007).]

Check out this thread. I forgot the slider needs to go to ground through the maplights ground. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/083091.html
whats wrong with my factory sub? - Pennock's Fiero Forum
One of those 'Doh' moments.
------------------
Ol' Paint, 88 Base coupe auto.
Turning white on top, like owner.
Leaks a little, like owner.
Doesn't smoke, unlike owner

[This message has been edited by DtheC (edited 05-28-2007).]

quote Originally posted by DtheC: Check out this thread. I forgot the slider needs to go to ground through the maplights ground. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/083091.html whats wrong with my factory sub? - Pennock's Fiero Forum One of those 'Doh' moments.

I am pretty sure mine is grounded fine. I the wring was the entire factory wire harness. At the dome light the slider switch ground runs over to one of the mounting bolts. I test it with the dome light mounted. I will try disconnecting the slider and see what I get.

Thanks for the thought.

Do you have a fiero factory or aftermarket or later GM radio? If its not a factory fiero radio you have to take the two pink wires on the performance sound harness and splice them into a new power source.

Jason

quote Originally posted by BrewCheese: Do you have a fiero factory or aftermarket or later GM radio? If its not a factory fiero radio you have to take the two pink wires on the performance sound harness and splice them into a new power source. Jason

I am using a 2001 Pontiac Monsoon CD player.

I have fixed the ground. At least I think. I looked as best I could and determined the solid core wire in the picture above did attach to the point noted on the slider. Nowe attached, the sub DOES respond to the slider, however, the sound isn't really much better. Play the attachment in the original post and you will see what I mean.

Is there a way to verify the sub speaker is or us not any good?

I am testing this without any front speakers connected. Can this cause the problem?

Another thing- Where is the crossover for this unit? In the little "amp" box on the side of the console tunnel?

[This message has been edited by sjmaye (edited 05-28-2007).]

Yes, hopefully you've got the corect wire hooked up. The lights and the slider control both go to ground via those black wires to the frame of the car. One quick check is to turn on the map lights either of the 2 push switches will do. No lights, probably no ground to the slider control.

Just a wild azz guess, the subamp is feed from both the front and rear chanels, so yes not having front speakers connected may cause more power than necessary going into the subamp. Overdriven amp = Amplifier clipping = bad sounds & blown speakers!

A down and dirty check of the speeker, use a 9V radio battery, 1 polarity the speeker will jump to full excursion in 1 direction, the oposite polarity will send the cone to full excursion in the oposite direction. It should sound like a clean tick, if it sounds like a rasp, something is not aligned and the coil is scraping on something.

I'm looking for a schematic for the subamp, I'll try to post it when I find it, I lost a lot of bookmarks last month in a system crash. You could try a search in TD&Q yourself. The schematic usualy gets posted every couple of months around here

[This message has been edited by DtheC (edited 05-28-2007).]

With the exception of confirming I connected the slider ground correctly I am not sure what the schematic will do for me. I am using the entire OEM wire harness with all the molded plugs for connectors. Anything is possible, but I don't know how it could be wired incorrectly.

I am trying to think of different troubleshooting ideas to narrow down which component may be bad. The other post who was testing without the slider being grounded said the audio sounded fine without the slider connected. Mine did too, but i got no sound at all out of the subwoofer system.

As I see it it has to be one of the 3 components; slider, amp, speaker.

I will keep looking...

Thanks for all the help eveyone!

I managed to confirm the speaker I have is not factory. It may be fine, but just not OEM. Even though the speak i have may be fine I found a new OEM speaker so cheap I bought it. I will get it in a week or so.

I now have all the speakers mounted, but still have the same performance. I think it actually sounds worse than before the subwoofer system was installed. I have little or no bass. Is this because the amp has routed all the lower frequencies to the subwoofer that is not working correctly?

I too have a 87GT with the original performance sound system. It worked fine with the original equalizer radio, but when I hooked in the Grand Am radio and later an aftermarket deck, the slider did not seem to have a function. No different sound, like it was not present. So I did not bother chasing it anymore cuz it sounds good with the new deck.

quote Originally posted by rubyredfiero: I too have a 87GT with the original performance sound system. It worked fine with the original equalizer radio, but when I hooked in the Grand Am radio and later an aftermarket deck, the slider did not seem to have a function. No different sound, like it was not present. So I did not bother chasing it anymore cuz it sounds good with the new deck.

Thanks for that Ruby Red. Interesting. My radio is the later model factory Firebird cd player. It sounded great before I put in the subwoofer. Now with the sub not working it seems to have little or no base.

I sure would like to fix it after going to all this trouble.

...wiring...

The original deck for the car normally powers the sub amp via the power antenna output, the newer GM decks will NOT power the sub amp this way.

1) you have to connect the subs amp power to an ignition source (amp on when key is on).

or...

2) apply power to the amp via a relay system that uses the antenna output on the new deck to trigger the relay to turn on (amp is on when the deck is on).

quote Originally posted by Mickey_Moose: ...wiring... The original deck for the car normally powers the sub amp via the power antenna output, the newer GM decks will NOT power the sub amp this way. 1) you have to connect the subs amp power to an ignition source (amp on when key is on). or... 2) apply power to the amp via a relay system that uses the antenna output on the new deck to trigger the relay to turn on (amp is on when the deck is on).

Now isn't that interesting. That makes sense. There is a thread here detailing all the wiring. So I take the power IN for the amp and just connect it to a switched 12V DC?

Thanks. I will give it a try.

you need to supply power to both pink wires to turn on the amp. pin 13 and 3. they were the normal voltage feed form the stock radio, but you cannot supply the required power to them with an aftermarket amps turnon line that they use for aftermarket amps.
most people use a relay on that line to switch 12v to the amp from another source.

quote Originally posted by tjm4fun: you need to supply power to both pink wires to turn on the amp. pin 13 and 3. they were the normal voltage feed form the stock radio, but you cannot supply the required power to them with an aftermarket amps turnon line that they use for aftermarket amps. most people use a relay on that line to switch 12v to the amp from another source.

I am guessing you use a relay and source the 12v from another circuit due to pulling too many amps on a single circuit?

Try this on for size- I tried applying 12 volts to the pink (?) wires individually while playing the radio. No change. I then got frustrated and pulled the wireed connector o from the amp fully expecting to lose all sound. To my surprise there was no change in sound at all. How do you explain that?

Ahh the good old sub-woofer, I have a stock one. It's been replaced 3 times. I find that I have to replace it every year or so (bought off archie). Anyone have a more long lasting subwoofer speaker?

well, if the radio itself is not a stock unit (from a fiero or smae year car that used that factory sub amp) it has a turn on lead meant to turn on an amp , not supply power to it. what you can do is use that lead to pick a relay, and then feed that relay with a good 12v source, the same feed for the main power to the radio should suffice. that 12v should go to both the power and mute lines, they should be pink from the subamp. they must both have 12v to them for the amp to turn on.
If you search I think there is a thread somewhere with a diagram of setting up a relay.
the amp does not feed the main speakers, so if it is not running or even if it is, it does not output any sound to the other speakers. be sure you have the polarity correct for each speaker lead, it does require all 4 speaker inputs to achieve maximum output. it adds them all together internally,each input increases the volume, so if you only feed it with 2 speaker outputs it will be roughly half the volume of using all 4.

here is a rough ascii schematic of a relay setup:

code:

---

radio amp turn on __________        _____________ Radio fuse
                            |       |
                       relay coil   \
                            |       |
ground______________________|       |____________ to subamp pin 13 &3

---

quote Originally posted by tjm4fun: well, if the radio itself is not a stock unit (from a fiero or smae year car that used that factory sub amp) it has a turn on lead meant to turn on an amp , not supply power to it. what you can do is use that lead to pick a relay, and then feed that relay with a good 12v source, the same feed for the main power to the radio should suffice. that 12v should go to both the power and mute lines, they should be pink from the subamp. they must both have 12v to them for the amp to turn on. If you search I think there is a thread somewhere with a diagram of setting up a relay. the amp does not feed the main speakers, so if it is not running or even if it is, it does not output any sound to the other speakers. be sure you have the polarity correct for each speaker lead, it does require all 4 speaker inputs to achieve maximum output. it adds them all together internally,each input increases the volume, so if you only feed it with 2 speaker outputs it will be roughly half the volume of using all 4. here is a rough ascii schematic of a relay setup: code: radio amp turn on __________ _____________ Radio fuse | | relay coil \ | | ground______________________| |____________ to subamp pin 13 &3

Super Information! Thanks. It will be my challenge next Saturday. Maybe I can actually hear this thing work for once. The relays mentioned... sourced from radio shack?

[This message has been edited by sjmaye (edited 06-04-2007).]

you can do a r/s relay or any of the std relays from an auto store. jus be sure the contacts are good for at leat 15 amps at 12v.

if youg et one of those typical block type automotive relay units, here is a ref to how to wire it:
http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm

you would use pin 86 from the amp turnon from the deck, pin 30 to your 12v radio fuse to feed the amp, and 87 to your amp

[This message has been edited by tjm4fun (edited 06-03-2007).]

quote Originally posted by tjm4fun: be sure you have the polarity correct for each speaker lead, it does require all 4 speaker inputs to achieve maximum output. it adds them all together internally,each input increases the volume, so if you only feed it with 2 speaker outputs it will be roughly half the volume of using all 4.

I had the front speakers out and checked this during reinstallation. They are after market speakers. They have no red dot or "+" symbol on or near the terminals to indicate polarity. They are scheduled to be replaced. As far as me getting this thing up and running. Is this polarity paramount to getting a feel for what a system sounds like with a subwoofer?

yes you should have the polarity correct for all the speakers. if it is still using the factory wiring, the diagram a few posts back will show what is + at the speaker, and if they deck is aftermarket and you used an adapter to the gm harness, be sure you got that right also. if you have speakers out of phase, you system will sound any where from poor to crap.
ok, I just re-read your original post, and it is not a stock fiero radio. so when you attached it, did it use the same connector?

for testing your basic sound tho, just unplug the connector from the sub amp. it only amps the subwoofer and does nothing for the other speakers. it has a high resistance input that sums all 4 channels, then filters just the low frequency and amps that only to the sub speaker. I have the schematic for the factory sub amp, if you should need it. its already posted in one or another thread, but I'll send ya the link if ya need it.

for testing the sub amp, any speaker will work at low volume, most will pop if given any power, but at low levels it should just sound smooth, and not too deep. the enclosure is required for it to sound good. Do a search on more bass, I think it was Bigfieroman who did an aftermarket speaker. I also posted a link to a 9$ speaker that with the proper mods to the case sounds pretty good, but it's driven with an aftermarket 75w rms 150w peak sub amp.

quote Originally posted by tjm4fun: I have the schematic for the factory sub amp, if you should need it. its already posted in one or another thread, but I'll send ya the link if ya need it.

Could you please send the schematic? If nothing else I can have it on file.

quote Originally posted by tjm4fun: yes you should have the polarity correct for all the speakers. if it is still using the factory wiring, the diagram a few posts back will show what is + at the speaker, and if they deck is aftermarket and you used an adapter to the gm harness, be sure you got that right also. if you have speakers out of phase, you system will sound any where from poor to crap. ok, I just re-read your original post, and it is not a stock fiero radio. so when you attached it, did it use the same connector?

The head unit is a 2001 Firebird CD player just like many people here have installed. I bought the adapter harness already wired up froma seller on ebay. It has one connector to plug in to my factory wire harness radio conector (1988) and another connector to plug in to the back of this newer style radio I put in. I installed the radio and this harness BEFORE attempting the subwoofer system and it worked great. So, I am thinking it is all OK.

quote Originally posted by tjm4fun: yes you should have the polarity correct for all the speakers. if it is still using the factory wiring, the diagram a few posts back will show what is + at the speaker,

The wiring to all the speakers is factory. When replacing the speakers the previous owner saved the speaker connectors and wired to the new speakers. Only problem is those cheapo speakers have no indication on them as to polarity. I will look closer.

examine them closely, aftermarket usually have 2 differrent size connectors. a red dot would be +, sometimes it is stamped in the spade, pull the connector and look. or use a 1.5 v battery, when the cone moves out, that is the + to the tip of the battery.

here is the sub amp schematic:
http://img228.imageshack.us...8/9255/subamp1ly.gif

Well, let me share with you what I said when I opened your attachment...."Holy SH#!@T". God man, are you a rocket scientist or something? I am curious, though. On the left most portion of the diagram it shows what appears to be the positive and negative plug connector contacts for all the speakers. I am assuming these are the signals for these speakers coming IN so that the low frequencies will be filtered out and forwarded to the subwoofer. None of the connectors are going OUT to the speakers, except to the sub?

Have I said how much I am glad I did not go in to Electrical Engineering?

quote Originally posted by tjm4fun: examine them closely, aftermarket usually have 2 differrent size connectors. a red dot would be +, sometimes it is stamped in the spade, pull the connector and look. or use a 1.5 v battery, when the cone moves out, that is the + to the tip of the battery. here is the sub amp schematic: http://img228.imageshack.us...8/9255/subamp1ly.gif

hehe, yea, it is busy. I have an EE, and been doing electronics since grade school. so it's not that bad for me. I forget that sometimes.
to answer your question:

yes on the left the 4 + speaker inputs and 4 - inputs come in thru some 470 ohm resistors (this came from Germany, and their nomenclature is slightly differrent than ours, hard for me to read too). that is so they don;t load the decks output. they do not leave the amp, they are soley the input source. that is why if you only use 2 speaker inputs, the volume will be lower.
they go to a limiting amp, then to the band pass filter. the sub speaker is driven byt the integrated circuit amp called DM A33 on the right side. on the top center, you see the mute input, with 0v on it, the amp is essentially turned off. that is why you need to put the voltage on both the pink lines.

now one thing to file away, that amp is not very powerfull, around 30w peak I think. some after market radios and maybe even yours may have more output power than the original radio that came in the fiero. this can overload the amp at high volume and cause distortion, but you have issues at low volume. the workaround for the overdriven input would be to remove a pair of speaker input connections. but we have to sort out why it sounds bad at low volume.

first make sure all your speakers are wired right. then be sure ehn you try the sub the speaker is in the enclosure, it will sound like absolute crap (popping, buzzing) if not installed int he enclosure. the enclosure dampens and tunes the speaker (simplified) so it creates smooth bass without popping. keep in mind that is not a stock speaker, so it may not be sized correctly in that enclosure. there are some things you can try to tune it tho. one thing you should do regardless, the metal ring that the speaker bolts to in the case, seal it tot he outer case all the way around. I suffed some hard foam rubber strips in mine and siliconed them in place. after that there are some other tircks that may help, get some acoustic filler material and stuff the enclosure, try covering the port etc, biut that is for later...

I think I understand reasonably well, now. Thanks for the explanation. As I stated (I think) above I am out of town until this weekend, so I won't be able to do the troubleshooting until then.

By now I may not have ever powered up the amp which explains a lot. When the slider is turned up I do get some burping etc sounding like a bad speaker, but it is very quiet. So if it is possible to feed enough signal to the sub and get some sound even without the amp powered up it may help me narrow it down to me just not getting the amp powered up.

As far as the speaker, I did find a new OEM here in the Mall. It should be delievered before I get home on Friday night.

quote Originally posted by sjmaye: I bought the adapter harness already wired up froma seller on ebay.

All you need to do is connect both pink wires to switched 12v (doing 1 wire at a time will not work).

If you just plugged in the adaptor harness without any other connections, it will NOT drive the sub amp. You HAVE to disconnect the pink wires (car harness) from the factory plug and connect them both to switched 12v.

If you are not sure about the wire colors, here are the radio pinouts:

this is the outputs of the back of the Monsoon player - harness disconnected, looking at the plug:

The wire (blue) that connect to pin 8 (ant) on the adaptor, should connect to the 2 pink wires on the car's original harness - those wires connect power - remove them from the harness and connect them to switch 12v (or cut the blue wire in the harness and feed switch 12v into the non-radio side).

this is the pinouts for the original deck (would be the same pins looking at the connections on the female end of the adaptor harness):

The 2 wires (pink) that connect to ANT are the ones you connect to power.

There is NO need to look at the sub-amp schematic (at this point) since you never said that you have power applied to both wires (you only said you tried them 1 at a time, not both at the same time), the Monsoon deck or any other non-Fiero deck provide enough power from the antenna output to power the sub amp. There will be NO sound from the sub until you connect power up, period. When you supply power to both pin 3 and 13 and it still does not work, then we will talk.

The adaptor harness is NOT plug and play on the Fiero, you have to make the change to the amps power feed - no way around this, don't know how many more ways I can say that.

quote Originally posted by Mickey_Moose: "You HAVE to disconnect the pink wires (car harness) from the factory plug and connect them both to switched 12v. " "connect to the 2 pink wires on the car's original harness - those wires connect power - remove them from the harness and connect them to switch 12v (or cut the blue wire in the harness and feed switch 12v into the non-radio side)."

From all color challenged people around the World, God bless you, son. I was afraid I would blow the unit poking around not being able to decern the colors. Let me recap:

1- cut/rmove from the ebay pruchased harness the wire going to the ANT. The wire in question should be at pin 8 on the Monsoon plug and go to the ANT pin in the diagram of the factory harness plug you have here. Should be blue. This will be the 12V supply to power the sub amp.

2- The two pink wires. I know there is supposed to be 2 pink wires on the factory sub amp connector. These wires must be connected to the 12V supply we have from #1 above. The question is where to disconnect these from the harness. Do I cut them there at the sub amp and connect to the 12V supply from above? Or can these wires also accessed in the harness up at the radio connector plugs?


[QUOTE]Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:

quote Originally posted by sjmaye: 1- cut/rmove from the ebay pruchased harness the wire going to the ANT. The wire in question should be at pin 8 on the Monsoon plug and go to the ANT pin in the diagram of the factory harness plug you have here. Should be blue. This will be the 12V supply to power the sub amp. 2- The two pink wires. I know there is supposed to be 2 pink wires on the factory sub amp connector. These wires must be connected to the 12V supply we have from #1 above. The question is where to disconnect these from the harness. Do I cut them there at the sub amp and connect to the 12V supply from above? Or can these wires also accessed in the harness up at the radio connector plugs?

You do not have to cut/remove/move the pink wires in step 2, you only have to modify the adaptor harness, all you do is remove the blue wire (step 1) from the radio's plug (the plug that actually fits inside of the radio) - take this wire that has now been disconnected at the one end and connect it to switch 12v and you are done.

Another other method is to use a relay to turn the amp on, but it is more complicated, the way I posted works just fine, the only issue is that the amp is on anytime the key is on (however you usually have your radio on anyways and it should not be a problem anyways). My 88 has been setup like that for over 5 years, and my 86 3 years, with no problems.

try here.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...040710-2-047222.html

------------------

" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"

I don't know if it was mentioned, but it looks like that speaker has a sealed back. As in a sealed back midrange for a 3 way speaker box of sorts. There's no way it will work as a sub. The speaker will sound the same with or without that box. I'd replace that speaker also.

Edit to say this is probably your main problem. That speaker IS a sealed back midrange, only responds down to 800 hz, sold at parts express. Dump that speaker and purchase a replacement. http://www.partsexpress.com...7&Partnumber=280-105


------------------
'87 2.8v6 5spd
Fiero

[This message has been edited by cjgable (edited 06-06-2007).]

Well I just gave it a try. I disconnected the blue wire from the plug going in to the back of the Pontiac Monsoon radio. I connected it the 12V supply wire leading to the same radio. it was right next to the blue one in the plug. I verified the ignition switch turned the 12V supply on and off and confirmed that the blue wire now had 12V when the ignition is on.

Let's fire it up! Sounds OK. I could not tell if the sub was working or not, so I confirmed the 2 pink wires in the connector on the sub amp had 12V on them. yes they did. I played with the slider from 0 to pegged and could not tell much. Put my ear to the sub and could hear little or nothing. The only time I got a hint the sub was working was in a particularly bassy part of a song and it put out it's usual nasty tone like a blown speaker again.

There was a troubleshooting section on the factory service manual for this thing. I will give it a shot.

quote Originally posted by sjmaye: Well I just gave it a try. I disconnected the blue wire from the plug going in to the back of the Pontiac Monsoon radio. I connected it the 12V supply wire leading to the same radio. it was right next to the blue one in the plug. I verified the ignition switch turned the 12V supply on and off and confirmed that the blue wire now had 12V when the ignition is on. Let's fire it up! Sounds OK. I could not tell if the sub was working or not, so I confirmed the 2 pink wires in the connector on the sub amp had 12V on them. yes they did. I played with the slider from 0 to pegged and could not tell much. Put my ear to the sub and could hear little or nothing. The only time I got a hint the sub was working was in a particularly bassy part of a song and it put out it's usual nasty tone like a blown speaker again. There was a troubleshooting section on the factory service manual for this thing. I will give it a shot.

I would almost guarantee that the factory sub is not getting the need power that it needs to operate as it did with the Fiero radio. With the setup I have the needed amount of power will be sent to the sub amp by the way of the relay. When I turn on my radio/cd it sends a voltage to the relay and then the relay forwards the voltage from the two pink wires(as mentioned a number of time earlier in previous postings) to the factory sub amp. With this setup the amp only gets power when padio/cd is powered up.

https://images.fiero.nl/p...ctory_sub_wiring.jpg

------------------

" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"

quote Originally posted by sjmaye: Put my ear to the sub and could hear little or nothing. The only time I got a hint the sub was working was in a particularly bassy part of a song and it put out it's usual nasty tone like a blown speaker again.

That is not a sub. You need to buy a replacement speaker. It makes those nasty tones because it is not designed to reproduce any frequency under 800 hz. Bass is approx. 120 hz down.

edit: here is an example of a replacement subwoofer that WILL work from Rodney Dickman http://www.rodneydickman.com/n60.html

[This message has been edited by cjgable (edited 06-08-2007).]

Out of curiosity, install the factory deck back in and see if that makes a difference. You should notice a big difference when the slider is full left and full right. If it now works, you have just verified the amp and the speaker are ok and you have a problem with the wiring when you hook up the monsoon deck.

If it does not work correctly with the factory deck, you will have to figure out if it is the speaker or the amp (maybe even the slider has a problem).

The troubleshooting guide in the FSM will probably help you out.

quote Originally posted by ohio86se: I would almost guarantee that the factory sub is not getting the need power that it needs to operate as it did with the Fiero radio. With the setup I have the needed amount of power will be sent to the sub amp by the way of the relay. When I turn on my radio/cd it sends a voltage to the relay and then the relay forwards the voltage from the two pink wires(as mentioned a number of time earlier in previous postings) to the factory sub amp. With this setup the amp only gets power when padio/cd is powered up. https://images.fiero.nl/p...ctory_sub_wiring.jpg

Just to verify it was not a amperage supply problem I ran a wire direct from the battery to feed the 2 pink wires that power up the sub amp. No difference.

The troubleshooting section of the manual did yield some information. The power and ground to the amp show fine, the voltages from the slider show fine. The only thing that did not check out was the voltage readings from the speaker inputs at the sub amp connector. They are supposed to read about 1 volt at loud volume. I am getting about 15mv on all the connections.

That seems really strange. If I understand the subwoofer wire harness it splits the speakers wires so a pair of speaker wires splits; one set to the speakers and the other set to the sub amp. If that is true it seems odd that the speakers play fine, but I get virtually no voltage at the sub amp connector.

The speaker appears to have similar construction as the one pictured at Rodney's, but just in case I have am OEM sub speaker coming. Hopefully will be here today.


In the mean time I will keep hunting and pecking.

quote Originally posted by sjmaye: The speaker appears to have similar construction as the one pictured at Rodney's, but just in case I have am OEM sub speaker coming. Hopefully will be here today.

The speaker pictured from Rodney does not have a sealed back. It is designed to play lower frequencies. The speaker you have has a sealed back so when it is in an enclosure with a woofer, the woofer cone displacement doesn't blow out the mid speaker.

Make sure the "OEM" speaker you are getting is a woofer or subwoofer. If it is designed as a midrange it will not work. I know Parts Express carries others that WILL work also. Can you link to the speaker you are getting?

quote Originally posted by cjgable: The speaker pictured from Rodney does not have a sealed back. It is designed to play lower frequencies. The speaker you have has a sealed back so when it is in an enclosure with a woofer, the woofer cone displacement doesn't blow out the mid speaker. Make sure the "OEM" speaker you are getting is a woofer or subwoofer. If it is designed as a midrange it will not work. I know Parts Express carries others that WILL work also. Can you link to the speaker you are getting?

I bought it from RossT here on Pennock's. It is supposed to be the original sub speaker.


It is new, but was dropped. i have to straighten the rim.