Looking at your dyno and mods, something is way off? Post the wideband readout from that run, I suspect it may be running to rich. Or perhaps there is an issue with your cam timming. Something is just not right at all. The dif with our headers and intake should be very noticable even just driving the car nevermind on the dyno! Send us the wideband data.

There is no wideband data. I wasn't doing any tuning. Keep in mind that the stock intake and Trueleo intake were both tested under the same conditions. So if the engine was running rich, or if the timing was off, it would have affected both dyno runs.

quote Originally posted by Blacktree: There is no wideband data. I wasn't doing any tuning. Keep in mind that the stock intake and Trueleo intake were both tested under the same conditions. So if the engine was running rich, or if the timing was off, it would have affected both dyno runs.

I still think something is not right. Can you get some wideband data? Also; did you remove the distributor when did the intake installation? You're not using a Hypertec chip are you? The stock chip works much better with our intakes and headers.

quote Originally posted by Francis T: I still think something is not right.

I knew you wouldn't like the dyno chart... LOL.

On a more serious note, it occurred to me that I may be maxing out my fuel injectors ( 17 lb/hr ). I'll have to check into it.

Well, according to this website's injector size calculator, my 17 lb/hr injectors are maxed out. Their max HP capability is almost the same HP I'm getting from my engine. I also took a drive around the block, and the BLM is in the low 140s.

I think it may be time for some 19 lb/hr injectors.

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 10-02-2008).]

blacktree check your pm

On my 87 NA 2.8 with intake and headers only, the stock injectors work fine. And it's not question of not likeing your dyno numbers as it is understanding them. If you any help with the problem just give us yell.

Today, I started the work on the rear clip and quarterpanels. Below, you see my half-naked Fiero.



I'm going to bond the rear clip and quarterpanels together, using fiberglass. Then I'll fill in the molding channel, just like I did with the doors.

Did you have to remove the lower rocker panels (under the door) to remove the quarter panels?

It kinda looks like your front fender is starting to stick out. may be the angle though. other than that the car looks amazing good job. I will soon be doing the hood/fender mod thanks to your detailed process, but with my own twist. keep it up. and a + to as well.

quote Originally posted by doublec4: Did you have to remove the lower rocker panels (under the door) to remove the quarter panels?

Yes, I did. The rocker panels interlock with the ground effects on the fenders and quarterpanels. I had previously replaced the rivets with nut rivets and machine screws. So removing the rocker panels is easy.

What epoxy are you using? I was going to get some fusor body adhesive but haven't seen any local so I will have to order it.

I use West System epoxy resin with my fiberglass. So that's what I used to bond the panels. It's just a personal preference. To be honest, SMC resin (or the Lord Fusor product you mentioned) would probably be better.

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 10-04-2008).]

More on the rear clip. After the epoxy hardened, I sanded the molding grooves to remove the paint, and filled them with fiberglass. In the photo below, the new fiberglass has already been sanded.



While I was waiting for the fiberglass to harden, I inspected the exposed frame sections for rust. I did find some minor rust along the back edge of the roof. So I cleaned it up and painted it with POR-15. I also painted the rest of the exposed frame parts with POR-15, just for good measure. And I replaced the old, cracked-up weather stripping with new stuff from the hardware store.



The rear clip has been re-installed. But unfortunately, the Fiero's water pump failed. So the body work has been temporarily put on hold.

quote Originally posted by Blacktree: Here's another update. Over the last few days, I shaved the door trim. When I removed the door trim, I noticed there were a couple screws underneath that attach the door skin to the door frame. If I left the screws in place and covered them up, the door skin would be permanently attached. I decided to remove the door skins from the car, to see if these screws were really necessary. They didn't appear to be very important, so I deleted them. The rest of the door fasteners could be re-used, because they aren't in the area that's going to be filled. In the photo below, you see the door frame with the outer skin removed. I've marked all the fasteners (except for the 4 rivets on the bottom) with arrows. The blue arrows are the fasteners that can be re-used. The red arrows are the two screws under the door trim that I decided to delete. I decided to do the fiberglass / filler work with the door panels removed. Removing the door skins (and re-installing them) was a PITA, but it made the body work easier. I sanded all the paint from the door trim groove, plus about 1.5" on either side. Then I filled the groove with fiberglass. It took 6 layers of glass fiber mat to fill it. Below, you see the raw fiberglass. Then I sanded it flat, and filled the low spots with epoxy-based putty. In the photo below, the putty has been applied, and then sanded. I used a marker to circle spots that needed another coat of putty. After that, I sanded it smooth and sprayed on some primer. Below, you see the door skins ready to be re-installed. Notice the holes for the door locks. Also notice that I left a crease along the top edge of the trim channel, instead of rounding it off. That crease coincides with the seam between the hood and fenders. I plan to carry that crease all the way back to the rear fascia, where it will meet the seam between the decklid and fascia. My next task will be to shave the trim from the rear quarterpanels. That will involve removing the rear clip and quarterpanels. So it ought to be fun.

Looks great!! May I suggest you find a way to smooth out or flatten the outer surface of the door handle? The stock handle matches the ribbed trim but will look out of place with the trim removed.

bump! its been too long! lol

they say imitation is the highest form of flattery. I would bet you have inspired many Fiero owners with your projects, I know i have been.

most definitely. if i had the money/time id be doin this 2 my car. great thread here, one of the few that i can sit here and read straight thru. btw watever happened? been a month or 2 since there was an update.

It's prob. too cold for any updates but a little bump anyway

He lives in Florida, no excuses about being cold

updates please a few of us are still watching this project!

Sorry for the delays, guys. But I've been busy with other things. I might not be able to play around with the Fiero again for at least a few weeks.

Alright times up whats the news.

The news is not good. My clutch is slipping.

Lately, I've been driving more conservatively, to avoid slipping the clutch. But it's getting worse.

The clutch is a Spec Stage 2. It's only about 2 years old, with about 20K miles on it. I haven't had a chance to take a good look at it yet (i.e. separate the engine/tranny). But I'll have to do that soon. I'm not going to make any statements or draw any conclusions until then.

Come to think of it, the clutch has probably been slipping (although a lot less obviously) for quite some time. When I went drag racing last summer, what I thought was wheelspin was more likely clutch slippage. I didn't believe it at the time, because the clutch showed no other symptoms of slippage. It only happened when I revved up the engine and launched hard. Come to think of it, this might have also affected my last dyno run.

So after I fix the car, I need to do more dyno runs and drag races to get accurate data.

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 01-25-2009).]

I just got a deal on an Addco 1" front sway bar that I couldn't pass up. So now my Fiero has a new front sway bar.

I bought some greaseable center bushings, made by Energy Suspension. I got 'em at AutoZone for about $20. Below is a shot of the sway bar just before installation.



At first, I was concerned that the larger bar might require drilling new mounting holes. I didn't think the mounting bolts were spaced far enough apart on the Fiero. But luckily, the bigger brackets just barely fit. In order to make it fit, I had to grind some material from the washers. Below is a close-up of the bushings, brackets, and washers.



And last but not least, a shot of the sway bar installed. Here you can see just how tight the fit was.



BTW, the mounting bolts are SAE Grade 8, 3/8" diameter. When I overhauled the suspension several years ago, I drilled out the bolt holes in the chassis and tapped them for 3/8" threads. These bolts are MUCH stronger than the dinky original mounting bolts. I don't have to worry about the heads snapping off any more.

Next on the "hit list" is the clutch. I should be addressing that issue soon.