Originally posted by AutoTech: .... I actually did the bondo work for the hood scoop, rear widebody, doors and wing on your car as well as fitting the rear bumper. It was the first time I did all the body work by myself, ...
... No wonder it looks crooked, I had to pay extra for Kris to fix it... Just joking , looks good!
[This message has been edited by FierociousGT (edited 01-24-2008).]
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09:57 PM
Archie Member
Posts: 9436 From: Las Vegas, NV Registered: Dec 1999
Just a few pics of some of the surfaces & edges on the front clip that Kris is trying to get all fitting perfect with each other. In additon he filled in the molding areas on the front fenders, reshaped the wheel well opening lip & is finishing off the flush mounting of the front emblem.
Anyone who says that getting all these surfaces to come out just right & fit perfectly is easy, needs to be shot.
I have 4 chops in the shop right now that can be measured. (Troy's car is on jack stands right now & can't be measured.
All of our chops are 3"
With an eyeball a level & a tape measure, I measured a few cars here.......
Curley's #20 nothing has been done to this car to lower it yet is 44" tall. #4 Chopper has obviously been lowered by the previous owner is 41.5" tall #25 which has also been lowered by the owner is 43" tall #1 The Great Blue Chop Top was only lowered in the front is 43.5" tall.
Archie
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07:05 PM
Jan 27th, 2008
madcurl Member
Posts: 21401 From: In a Van down by the Kern River Registered: Jul 2003
Once it gets back to Orlando, I will remove the original turn signals and relocate them to the headlight compartment. Thats what the opening is for in the HL... and in the old compartment I'll add some Hella driving lights.
[This message has been edited by FierociousGT (edited 02-05-2008).]
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03:49 PM
madcurl Member
Posts: 21401 From: In a Van down by the Kern River Registered: Jul 2003
Either one of those photoshop vents will work and will separate #025 from #015. I think that particular style would be the first on a Fiero or at least on a choptop. For option B, try reducing the center trail ends to match the outers. Remember, your front scoops trailing ends aren't elongated beyond a certain point. There isn't a "general" rule written in stones so you do have options. So far, you're on track.
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 02-06-2008).]
How about extending the elevated part of the scoop all the way back to the spoiler and actually have it exit on the back side of the spoiler. Then you could vent the decklid further back (over the rear manifold) and possibly improve rear engine compartment cooling. You could even float a thin line third brake light in the opening on the back side of the spoiler for a dual function mod. I would love to see a photoshop of this!
Originally posted by troyboy: so far I like this one, but just for fun do the center in a "V" like the nose center.
Interesting point about VERSION B.... It would match the nose scoop better then VERSION C. LEt me tweek them some more.
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Originally posted by fieroguru:
How about extending the elevated part of the scoop all the way back to the spoiler and actually have it exit on the back side of the spoiler. Then you could vent the decklid further back (over the rear manifold) and possibly improve rear engine compartment cooling. You could even float a thin line third brake light in the opening on the back side of the spoiler for a dual function mod. I would love to see a photoshop of this!
I know what you are talking about. I saw a picture somewhere, where the vent exit was thru the wing tail on the end... It would require modifying the wing, which I want to avoid and it would not match the hood scoop.
[This message has been edited by FierociousGT (edited 02-06-2008).]
... No wonder it looks crooked, I had to pay extra for Kris to fix it... Just joking 
, looks good! 
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