I'm getting ready to buy some intake cams for my N*. I just need to know who else makes them besides CHRfab? Just in case I'm using stock 300hp (266) intake cams on the exhaust side).

Thanks!
JG

I don't think anyone besides CHRF has credible experience regrinding Northstar cams.

The further you change the cams from stock, the worse it's going to run on a stock tune.

Get it running FIRST and then mod it. If you try to mod it first, you'll never get it running. You'll get frustrated with it and then sell it, not running, for a fraction of what you have into it.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 10-21-2008).]

I'll second that. I have not figured out mine yet. It does run, and will go like a scared cat if it does not stall from the stumble it has first or from other running issues. Not to mention the quart of oil per tank of gas it pukes out after the "warm over" a local shop gave me. Frustration - yes.
Dave.

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Daviero - 88 N* GT

I too am planning on getting cams from CHRFAB sometime over the winter... I have looked and looked but found no one else who makes or grinds cams for northstars. Judging from what I have heard they are certainly the go to guys for northstar. Only major disappointment is they don't list full specs for their cams on the site... I posted a question on the CHRFAB forum http://chrfab.topic-board.com/ but am still waiting for an answer.

Daviero what are you using for a controller on yours?

-Jay

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87 GT Stock 2.8L 5spd
86 GT Northstar 5spd

I'm also contemplating about getting some reground cams for mine, but I think i'll probably just end up sticking with stock ones. I'd love to have the extra power, and it would sound awesome at 8000 rpm but all of the racing that i do is autocross and i would have to sacrifice low range power for top end power which i will never use. I only get up to 6700rpm for maybe 2-3 seconds in an entire season, most of the time its around 4000-5000 which works great because thats where the peak torque currently is. CHRFab is definatly the place to get the performance goodies for the northstar but be carefull what you select for your application because it's tempting to go overboard and might not work as well as something milder. I'm going back to the dyno tomorrow night to see where my power is sitting now after the ported heads and rebuild. It'll be interesting to see what the outcome is.

quote Originally posted by Zac88GT: I'm also contemplating about getting some reground cams for mine, but I think i'll probably just end up sticking with stock ones. I'd love to have the extra power, and it would sound awesome at 8000 rpm but all of the racing that i do is autocross and i would have to sacrifice low range power for top end power which i will never use. I only get up to 6700rpm for maybe 2-3 seconds in an entire season, most of the time its around 4000-5000 which works great because thats where the peak torque currently is. CHRFab is definatly the place to get the performance goodies for the northstar but be carefull what you select for your application because it's tempting to go overboard and might not work as well as something milder. I'm going back to the dyno tomorrow night to see where my power is sitting now after the ported heads and rebuild. It'll be interesting to see what the outcome is.

Zac please keep us posted on your next dyno runs, I will like to see what is there to gain after a ported heads/rebuilt engine and a long header set up is done on a N*. And you're right the bottom end being compromised when running larger duration cams. Although Allan does offers modified or re-drill cam gears (which I have) to help keep some of that lower end alive, and the close the gap a little. He said otherwise the engine feels almost as if it had an on/off switch at about 3000rmp. On the same talking using the re-drill cam gears does hurts the full potential of the 288 cams... So I guess you got to keep it balance and make the best of the two high and low ends meet somewhere in the middle....


JG

quote Originally posted by THE BEAST: time is also everything for me now and I'm running very low on it, when it comes to using the garage I'm using... I have to get this done! JG

Which means you just need to get it RUNNING. Forget the new cams until you get the engine running with the stockers and get used to the car that way.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 10-22-2008).]

Well the dyno was a little dissapointing because i couldn't do any tuning due to a strange EMF ECM issue that occurs only on the dyno. At 5500 rpm, even though the throttle is wide open, the tps signal drops from 99% to 33% which pulls it out of power enrich mode. I had this issue before on the dyno so i tried shielding the emulator and ecm with tin foil but it didn't work. It's not the sensor and it never happens on the street. It's something that is related to dynoing it because it's very consistant. I managed to get one run, where i had the current chip installed and the lid on the ecm bolted down, that didn't do it so that's the only graph I have. The afr is around 13.0 which will need some richening up, probably to around 12.5, and i could probably add a bit more timing to the top end. I have a feeling I could probably tune another 10-15whp out of it if i was able to actually tune it on the dyno without this stupid ecm issue. We compared my graph to my buddies (2000 N* with 288* cams and headers) and my power is much more broad. The cams really make his power peaky and it only makes more power than mine above 5500. Right now he's putting down 315whp and i'm at 305whp. His torque is at 300ft lbs and mine is 310ft lbs. The stock cams are much better for mid range so i'm going to stick with them. I've got about 30 more ft lbs of torque through the entire mid range than the cammed motor. Anyway here are the graphs.

Zac,
Sorry to hear about your recurrent problem with the EMF ECM issue. If it makes you feel good you still making great power up until 5500rpms, however I was more interested to see how much Hp was there to be made with a set of ported heads on the N*… Since is then (pass 5500) when the airflow will be the limiting factor. Although I’ve not seen pictures of your porting job, so still is hard to make a judgment of how they will compare to mine. For what is worth often the main problem of porting the heads is the same one of that getting bigger cams (loosing midrange power) and your dyno graph shows none or very little lost.

So congrats again and hopefully soon you will resolve this EMF problem and get your engine tuned beyond the 5500rpm mark.

JG

Comp Cams
Give them a call

quote Originally posted by AJxtcman: Comp Cams Give them a call

Right on! & Thanks,

JG

Unless they've gotten interested in this engine in the last couple of years (which I doubt because the market is non-existent), they don't know anything.

Blanks DO NOT EXIST. The only way to have a different profile than stock is to regrind the stockers.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 10-28-2008).]

Comp Cams
99-999-3


http://www.compperformanceg...999-3&Category_Code=

[This message has been edited by AJxtcman (edited 10-28-2008).]

They regrind cams... so what? Got better specs than CHRF's to give them? They have zero idea about how to get power out of the engine.

When you buy cams from CHRF, you buy a chunk of Alan's development time.