I painted my car using the Omni mtk line and need some help in sanding/polishing methods and supplies. I used 1000 grit wet, then 1500 grit wet and then 3m foam polishing pad glaze. I still have some fine scratches and some gloss but not as much as the untouched paint. Do I need to use 2000 grit wet before the glaze? Or do I need some compound applied before the glaze?
Forgive my ignorance, this is my first time painting in about 30 years ( and I only did one car back then with lacquer).
Also do I need to get the 3m backing pad, foam pad and polishing machine? I am using a Sears buffer/polisher.

Thanks

I also need help spelling!

I rubbed my PPG Delron with 1500 grit then 2000 grit before I used 3M's foam buffer to polish my car. The 2000 grit will polish the paint to a mirror finish that you can then polish it with the foam buffer.

Joe Sokol

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85 SE Daily driver with a 3.4 DOHC build underway
88 Formula/GT 4.9 Allante Intake (My Baby)

What did you use with the foam pad - what glaze or compound?

How long has the paint cured. Did you use hardener. Most single stage paint needs a couple of months to fully cure enough for buffing.

Roger knows. Worth careful consideration.

I have used 2000 grit, however, I have most recently finished with 1500 and followed up with Meguiar's compound with a buffer.

I don't go to the foam applicator until I am using the polish.

I have used their Heavy Cut Cleaner, then the Swirl Remover, followed by the Fine Cleaner, then the polish.

Arn

quote Originally posted by peterh: I painted my car using the Omni mtk line and need some help in sanding/polishing methods and supplies. I used 1000 grit wet, then 1500 grit wet and then 3m foam polishing pad glaze. I still have some fine scratches and some gloss but not as much as the untouched paint. Do I need to use 2000 grit wet before the glaze? Or do I need some compound applied before the glaze? Forgive my ignorance, this is my first time painting in about 30 years ( and I only did one car back then with lacquer). Also do I need to get the 3m backing pad, foam pad and polishing machine? I am using a Sears buffer/polisher. Thanks

You need to use 3M Perfect-It III Rubbing Compound (#05937) - using a *foam* pad made for buffing (then go over it with the glaze). It's made to buff out after using 1500, but it's eaiser to buff if you use 2000. You should be able to get a velcro backing plate to use a foam pad on the sears buffer.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Thanks for the replies
Some more info:
I painted the car last tuesday - October 21. so how long should I wait? I will probable wet sand the few drips I haveas time permits and I can wait for the buffing.
I used the recommended activator and reducer for the Omni mtk line, did not use hardener.
I do not know if the Sears buffer can be modified, it has a black colored foam pad that you slip over the various wool or cloth pads/covers. I will look at it when I get home.

Dont make much difference what pad you use. Omni is a very slow drying synthetic enamel. If you just painted it, let it alone until February. Not a joke. Since its colder it takes even longer. Your trying to buff wet paint, even though the surface seems to be dry.

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Owner / Operator Custom Paint and Body...
specializing in Corvette & Higher End Autos for 40+ years
Ferrari, Mercedes and Porsche Approved
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88 Corvette convertible
05 Dodge Magnum Hemi R/T
66 Dodge Killer Bee Coronet

quote Originally posted by peterh: Thanks for the replies Some more info: I painted the car last tuesday - October 21. so how long should I wait?

It's OK to go ahead & buff it out - in fact it's eaiser when it's still fresh. Like Roger says, it will be a while before it completely hardens - true of any paint (usually it's about a month as a general rule). After a couple months you'll probably see it's "dried down", & you'll have to re-buff it.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Is the waiting the same with BC/CC paints?

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'88 Fiero Formula

quote Originally posted by 725franky: Is the waiting the same with BC/CC paints?

Most clears will buff out the next day, & will dry down very little. It still takes about a month for them to dry *completely*. (Don't WAX for a month)
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Probably easier repainting the panel and maybe fogging whats next to it?

I sand and buff hardened bsct/clearcoat the next day with no prob at all. I sometimes have to go back over it lightly a week or two later. Like drivers says Urathane clearcoat is easier to sand and buff as soon as you can. Its fully cured in about a month and a real pain to buff out then. Single stage stays wet so long, its almost impossible to repaint over it without it bubbling up for months. Ive had Omni painted Maaco jobs bubble years after they were painted. Major brands like Sherwin Williams makes a recoat sealer that you have to use to repaint a freshly painted panel over again. Its basicly shellac and seals over the paint so it wont bubble up.

Thanks for the all of the updates. I checked my little sears polisher and it is not setup for attaching a foam pad. I will get the perfect III compound and try the mentioned steps.

Wish you luck. Im guessing before you get any gloss in it, you going to smear ruts into the finish with the buffer on that fresh paint.

Again, I agree with Roger, if it's just an enamel, not a 2 part urathane. it's too soft to wet sand & buff out. enamel takes a long time to get hard enough to (MONTHS) Been 25 years in the bodyshop.

This is from the omni info page:
MTK is a fast drying, two component, acrylic urethane

My own limited experiences confirm what Roger has said that it takes a while to harden, especially in these colder temperatures.
(I definitely appreciate what a professional painter does, I am not going to quite my day job which is in the computer field.)

We use this evercoat product at school. It works well with the 3m pads.

http://yhst-13811118617756....fogl&channelid=FROOG