Hey guys,

I have a 2.8 that I've converted into a 3.2. It originally came with ARI Racing's "Phase 2" cam. I believe the cam has totally worn itself out due to maybe an improper break-in period by me.

I've ordered a new camshaft, and a new set of lifters. I'd like to do it right this time... and wanted to know what I should do.

The new cam I have is an H272 with a set of matched Crane lifters. The springs I currently have on the cyl heads are still good, and the machine shop that built my motor many years ago installed shims underneath. That said... the motor only has 3,000 miles on it... really so the springs should still be good. If they're not... I know it's not going to HURT the cam by having springs that are too soft (at least in the break-in period).

The rocker arms I have are 1.52:1 crane roller rockers.


I guess my question is... once I get the motor out of the car and on a stand... what do I do?

I know obviously I need to remove the balancer, pulley, timing cover and cam gear... but other than that, is there really anything to installing the cam? Is there a cam retainer? I know I need to pull the distributor out of course... and then once I remove the cam retainer (if there is one), I should be able to pull it out pretty easily, correct?

The new cam just slides right in, I put the cam gear back on, line up the dots, and bolt everything back up? (I forgot to mention, but of course I would remove the pushrods and lifters too).


Is it that easy?


What about "degreeing" the cam... is that something I would need to consider doing?


When the motor is back in the car, and ready to go... what is my break-in procedure?


When I attempted to break it in the first time (the old cam), I started the car, let it idle at 2,000-2,200 rpms for 20 minutes.

Then I changed the oil with regular Castrol 5W-30. I continued to drive it around for about 100 miles... and changed the oil again to regular Castrol 5W-30. When I hit 500 miles, I then changed to full synthetic.

After about 2,000 miles... the cam totally wore itself down.


What did I do wrong?


Thanks!!!

------------------
Todd,
2006 Pontiac Solstice
2004 Volkswagen Beetle Convt. (Wife's)
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1981 EZ-GO Xi875-A "Miami Dolphins" Medical Cart
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 350

I'm not familiar with the exact workings of the 2.8 but there are some general things that should be done. Degreeing the cam is probably not worth much, you will be fine if you just align the timing marks. The most important thing is to use cam break-in lube when you install the cam. Generally cam manufacturers will supply the lube with the cam kit. You didn't mention that you used it on the cam that was destroyed, did you use it?

quote Originally posted by TONY_C: I'm not familiar with the exact workings of the 2.8 but there are some general things that should be done. Degreeing the cam is probably not worth much, you will be fine if you just align the timing marks. The most important thing is to use cam break-in lube when you install the cam. Generally cam manufacturers will supply the lube with the cam kit. You didn't mention that you used it on the cam that was destroyed, did you use it?

No, becuase the motor was rebuilt by a machine shop, I just took it out, gave it to them in pieces, they assembled it, and I dropped it in the car.

So I don't know, although I assume they did?


Do you put cam break-in lube on it as you install it? Or after? (or both?)

I assume I don't need to change out the cam bearings either, right?

------------------
Todd,
2006 Pontiac Solstice
2004 Volkswagen Beetle Convt. (Wife's)
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1981 EZ-GO Xi875-A "Miami Dolphins" Medical Cart
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 350

I would take a good look at the cam bearings. if there was a failure like you describe, there could possibly be bearing damage from metal filings. I would assume the engine shop would use cam lube but you know what happens when you assume...
The cam lube is put on all the lobes of the camshaft before you install it into the block. do not put it on the cam journals. Also put some on the bottom of each lifter. Cam manufacturers also have a recommended break-in, holding the engine at certain RPMs for certain periods of time. I would check with the maker for their recommendation.

I would first check into the springs. some fiero heads need some minor machining to get a little extra room for the spring, to prevent binding - which can quickly wreck a cam. the spec is called "spring install height" and it is usually 1.710"

the toughest part will be setting the rocker lash. its not actually all that hard - it is just fussy.

to "degree" the cam, you will need a timing gear which allows timing adjustment. the stock gear does not.

break in procedure is: after assembly - start the motor QUICKLY, and hold 2000-2500 RPM for 20 mins. which means you better hope you put it together right, timing close - and no leaks.

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: I would first check into the springs. some fiero heads need some minor machining to get a little extra room for the spring, to prevent binding - which can quickly wreck a cam. the spec is called "spring install height" and it is usually 1.710" the toughest part will be setting the rocker lash. its not actually all that hard - it is just fussy. to "degree" the cam, you will need a timing gear which allows timing adjustment. the stock gear does not. break in procedure is: after assembly - start the motor QUICKLY, and hold 2000-2500 RPM for 20 mins. which means you better hope you put it together right, timing close - and no leaks.

Thanks Pyrthian, I've actually done the valve lash a few times on this motor, since I installed the 1.52:1 rocker arms originally anyway, not really a big deal for me. But yeah, I'm definitely worried about the initial startup.

Is there a way that I can test / check spring installed height?


Thanks!!!

------------------
Todd,
2006 Pontiac Solstice
2004 Volkswagen Beetle Convt. (Wife's)
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1981 EZ-GO Xi875-A "Miami Dolphins" Medical Cart
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 350

quote Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: .... Is there a way that I can test / check spring installed height?

the ideal way is to get a steel dowel or block machined to that exact hieght, and see if it fits between the spring perch and the spring retainer.
and, being you mentioned shims under the springs - you probably are already fine.
measuring with a digital caliper is another approach, but it is tough to get it in there, and to easy get have it lopsided, so it will measure long.