I called them yesterday to find out how much heat this paint can tolerate and they said around 600F. I obviously wouldn't paint the manifolds or other exhaust parts with it but I was going to try some on the heat sheilds that surround the ignition coil. Did anyone else try some in high heat areas? If anyone has painted their battery tray with some I suppose that gets pretty hot as well.
Marc

[This message has been edited by Gokart (edited 11-26-2008).]

I used POR-15 on brackets mounted to the engine/heads and the heat shields on my 3.4L swap. Never had any problem. The only heat shield I painted was the one on the crossover pipe near the EGR. The finish did dull a bit (more like a satin finish) but never softened or burnt off. It should be noted that I used the POR-20 paint on the crossover and other exhaust pipes which has a similar effect (but not nearly as good) as ceramic coating by keeping the radiant heat temps down. So the temp of the heat shield was most likely slightly cooler than stock. Personally if I were to do another car, I would use the POR-20 for all the heat shields as it stays glossy and isn't as thick of a coating as the POR-15.

I did paint the battery tray, trunk (inside and out), cradle, mounts, control arms, etc. and all are fine. Just the heat shields dulled.

[This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 11-26-2008).]

There are some excellent Ceramic/Silicone based paints made for direct application to the exhaust. If the area is that hot then this is the solution. POR-15 is a Cyanoacrylate Ester based coating with similar properties to Crazy Glue. I've found it great for rust preventative applications under the vehicle facias and its tough stuff but it is UV sensitive and will deteriorate under direct sunlight exposure or in high heat areas. You probably know this by now but you must also wear gloves when working with POR-15. Once POR gets on your skin , it is difficult to remove, so much so that you may be "wearing" the stuff for months.

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87GT - 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H
" I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

POR-15 is a rust converter. It should be used where rust is present, a clean surface defeats the purpose. It uses the rust chemically, turning it into iron oxide, a very hard metal, and heat should not be any problem.

quote Originally posted by weaselbeak: POR-15 is a rust converter. It should be used where rust is present, a clean surface defeats the purpose. It uses the rust chemically, turning it into iron oxide, a very hard metal, and heat should not be any problem.

No it is not a "rust converter" like Loctite's "Extend". It is an actual coating that chemically bonds to rust and blocks moisture. Using POR15 on a clean surface (properly prep'd) does not defeat it's purpose, It does what it is intended to do and that is prevent the part from rusting/oxidizing by blocking out moisture.

Please read their FAQ: http://www.por15.com/faq.asp

Really? I thought they were the same stuff. Live and learn.

quote Originally posted by Gokart: I called them yesterday to find out how much heat this paint can tolerate and they said around 600F. I obviously wouldn't paint the manifolds or other exhaust parts with it but I was going to try some on the heat sheilds that surround the ignition coil. Did anyone else try some in high heat areas? If anyone has painted their battery tray with some I suppose that gets pretty hot as well. Marc

There are two -likely more- better ways to keep the coil cool; best one -and easy- is to simply turn the coil 180 deg and bolt it back down on standoffs of about 1"-2". You will need to extend a few wires but doing such the will get it away from the EGR by a lot. Another way, is to put reflective self-stick heat shielding on the heat shield. I would recommend adding a few pop rivits to make sure the stuff stays on long term.

In the photo below you can see the bigger gap between the EGR/coil the 180 turn-around provides and also just make out the refective shielding on the black coil shield.

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Trueleo.com/fiero.htm
RSpiderII@aol.com

quote Originally posted by Gokart: ... I was going to try some on the heat sheilds that surround the ignition coil.

I painted mine with the POR-15 silver paint; it seems to have withstood the heat with no problems but it has discolored to a bronzeish color.

I've painted a number of other items in the engine compartment with POR-15 black and they still look 100% fine, no deterioration or anything.

I have used it in areas that was keep at 300 deg F and it held up for about a year. We just made it a maintenance job every year to clean out the old stuff and repaint that area out again.

Jack

I've used POR-15 on a number of street rods that i've built. I find that it stays vary well on rough or rust surfaces, but does not stay on smooth bare metal vary well. (tends to peel after a year or so)

quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: There are some excellent Ceramic/Silicone based paints made for direct application to the exhaust. If the area is that hot then this is the solution. POR-15 is a Cyanoacrylate Ester based coating with similar properties to Crazy Glue. I've found it great for rust preventative applications under the vehicle facias and its tough stuff but it is UV sensitive and will deteriorate under direct sunlight exposure or in high heat areas. You probably know this by now but you must also wear gloves when working with POR-15. Once POR gets on your skin , it is difficult to remove, so much so that you may be "wearing" the stuff for months.

No kidding,,Cyanoacrylate, well I learned something today. Thanks.

I too used POR20, I used it on 1972 350 V8 steel headers, its great stuff. I used a torch to heat the pipes first in order to get any moisture out, then while they are warm but not hot, paint them. Then keep in a room above 70 degrees until dry. I just cured the paint on the car by running it, its toxic fumes I am sure so don't do it indoors. Lasted me a year so far still looks new.

quote Originally posted by RONT4.9: I've used POR-15 on a number of street rods that i've built. I find that it stays vary well on rough or rust surfaces, but does not stay on smooth bare metal vary well. (tends to peel after a year or so)

You need to use their zinc primer on smooth bare metal. I painted a bunch of brackets and suspension parts and they have held up for many years now.

I used the silver on my tail pipes after the muffler..It peeled up real bad. Used the 1500* ceramic paint this time. Looks great all the back to the manifold.

Bob