I drove one with the aluminum cradle bushings once, it gave out a peculiar *doink* sound, similar to an aluminum bat hitting a ball when the suspension hit on steep speed bumps or pot holes and the like. The Urethane bushings, in my opinion, are a very acceptable choice for street use (or even track use).
I have Rodney's aluminum bushings and they are great!! No funny noises or any of that, and you would never realize how much your rear end moves around until you ride in one with solid bushings.
Use a torch to heat up the metal sleeve around the bushing. As the metal sleeve expands, it will loosen its grip on the rubber bushing. While the sleeve is hot, push the bushing out with a screwdriver or something similar. It's safer than burning away the rubber. Whichever method you decide to use, be sure to keep a fire extinguisher handy just in case.
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01:16 AM
hklvette Member
Posts: 1439 From: Roanoke, VA Registered: Nov 2007
All three of my Fieros are solid mounted and the fourth will be too. No regrets. I used a drill to get the rubber out and then a wire brush on a drill to clean the sleeve. No torch because I didn't feel like smelling burnt rubber all day. Dave
------------------ 1987 GT (my toy-see above), 1987 GT (daily driver), 1986 SE with a VW VR6, certified master technician/shop owner www.njautobahn.com
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03:43 PM
hookdonspeed Member
Posts: 7980 From: baltimore, md Registered: May 2008
Have had good luck with poly cradle bushings. They are far less expensive than all aluminum bushings, look good and they do the job. To remove the old bushings from the sleeves, I heat up the shells then hit the bushings out with a hammer. One shot and they are out.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. 87GT - 3.4L Turbocharged engine, modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
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10:49 PM
Jan 3rd, 2009
Will Member
Posts: 14274 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
Heating the shell actually vaporizes the adhesive and melts a layer of rubber on the outside of the bushing. Once that happens, the bushing can be pushed out, whole and intact, with a piece of pipe. The inside of the sleeve should be cleaned with a rotary wire brush on a drill, and the whole sleeve painted inside and out before the bushings are installed.
I'm not sure if Rodney's bushings go inside the sleeve or not, but any aluminum-steel interface should be anti-seized.
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09:59 AM
Dave E Bouy Member
Posts: 1465 From: Kettle Point Ontario Canada Registered: Sep 2004
To install the aluminum bushings, I kept the bushings overnight in the freezer. They went right in the next day with a light hit from a soft faced dead blow. Dave
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10:08 AM
Tanlrat Member
Posts: 154 From: Buckeye, AZ, USA Registered: May 2008
For replacement use poly, poly is 100% better than rubber on all applications, but you pay for it in more vibration and ride smoothness when used to replace all the rubber bushings in the suspension.
For the driving enthusiast use the aluminum bushings, stops the drivetrain from affecting the rear suspension. poly and rubber allow the cradle to twist and roll during corning, acceleration and deceleration. That is why GM got rid of the rubber cradle bushings on the 88.
quote
Originally posted by 85GT3.4Track4spdCar:
I drove one with the aluminum cradle bushings once, it gave out a peculiar *doink* sound, similar to an aluminum bat hitting a ball when the suspension hit on steep speed bumps or pot holes and the like. The Urethane bushings, in my opinion, are a very acceptable choice for street use (or even track use).
Mine makes that sound but it is from the engine, tranny mounts and the dogbone being worn out. Not replacing mine since I'm saving up for an engine swap.
