What's involved in swapping out the positive battery cable?

My stock one has a loose connection by the rubber side post mount. I can't see how to take it further apart (other than pressing the bolt out) and I'm getting really frustrated with having to wiggle the cord to get current. Since part of the wire is exposed and oxidized more might be damaged anyways.

Should I get a factory replacement cable (I rather not)

Or is a generic side post cable from Autozone/Kragen/etc. good enough?

Does the wire just go to the starter and fuse box, or does is split somewhere where I can't see it.
Can I get to it with just jackstands, or is it easier to lift the car?

I replaced one on my 87 coupe. Had a hard time finding a pre-packaged one that was long enough. The large wire goes to the starter.
I had the car up on blocks so I could get underneath to access the starter motor.
------------------
86 GT
87 coupe restoration project.

[This message has been edited by nmw75 (edited 03-26-2009).]

I went to Autozone and now I'm confused.

What gauge do I need? what lenght? (I rather make a trip for the parts ahead of time, instead of having to take the harness out to be used as a sample.

I actually got mine at Wal-Mart. They were hanging on the battery shelf.
If I remember correctly it was around 3' long.

quote Originally posted by nmw75: I actually got mine at Wal-Mart. They were hanging on the battery shelf. If I remember correctly it was around 3' long.

yup, about that - with one pigtail
maybe a 2nd, if you have anything extra added

Where does the one pigtail disappear to?

[This message has been edited by JackS (edited 03-28-2009).]

quote Originally posted by JackS: Where does the one pigyail disappear to?

the (+) distribution block
its right under that body connector, near the battery
good time to replace all them fuseable links right there - that will brighten your headlights, make the windows move quicker, and other good stuff

Why not just cut the end off & put a NEW END on the one you have ??

If It's duke you can do it from above. You just won't be able to route it down behind the water pump and under the shield. I got one that was extra long and ran it along the firewall under the heat shield then back to the starter. Make sure it stays away from the exhaust pipes. You can reach the starter on the duke by taking the air filter assembly off and leaning over the top of the eng. On the V6 you have to do it from underneath.

[This message has been edited by 2farnorth (edited 03-28-2009).]

good time to replace all them fuseable links right there - that will brighten your headlights, make the windows move quicker, and other good stuff)

TELL ME MORE about this O wise one.

If the cable is wiggling where it connects to the battery, then the bolt and spacers are worn but are easy to replace. Autozone (and other parts stores) carry them for a couple bucks. The bolt just pulls out and the spacers can be pried out of their rubber surrounds.

quote Originally posted by Lou6t4gto: Why not just cut the end off & put a NEW END on the one you have ??

You can do that?
I didn't see the part for that. I guess I need to look again.

I've been asking different parts places for this wire. I can only find black. (not a problem - a drop of red nailpolish fixes that )

I do however get different answers as to thickness, etc. depending on where I go.*

I heard 2ga. and 4ga. (with the majority of places saying 4ga. (visually stock looks similar from the outside) )

and Fusible link (the thin wire) required, and other places a regular thin wire is ok. Which is it?
_____
* If I get a chance, I'll post pics. The design and built quality varies greatly. (I chose to limit myself to covered plastic/rubber boots (like factory) - since it's a positive lead, and I like the idea of avoiding accidental shorts to ground. )