One more thing, I think you'll find you dont need to go with NOS. The car should be a heck of a lot more fun with these mods and still be reliable.

I have a buddy who runs a shop, they have a 4 gas analyser... I may be able to snag some time on that.

I guess I'll make the blockoff out of something thicker then. I have some cardboard sitting around here... lol

As far as the nitrous goes... You may be right Plans are to drive it down to the exhaust guys on Thursday, then tune it as best I can... Hopefully it drives nice

Steve

I just looked at the fuel rail for my 87GT and low and behold it too has the knob on it. So i see your problem and now mine also clearly. Since you can't relocate the thing with another fitting (it wont work then) I think I'll just cut one of my fuel lines, put flare fittings on it and a T fitting to the gauge. Just have to figure out which line would be best to cut. Probably the return (whichever that is?) so I can see the presure after the adjuster.

I think you want to tap into the larger tubing (inlet) side for the pressure reading you care about.

But with a fuel pressure adjuster, the only thing that a gauge off of the feed line is gonna read is the pump pressure. We want to know what the pressure after the adjustable regulator is... So the gauge has to be off of the rail. Somehow.

Funkmaster; Are you trying to hook up a fuel pressure gauge. Why not screw out the entire scrader valve assembly and put in a 90* fitting. That's what I did. Think I used Earl's brand.

------------------

85 GT 3.4
14.9 @ 90 1.9 60' Old TH125/3.06
Unknown New 4T60/3.42

I have tried that, but the only fitting I could find is way too tall... Do you have a part number for the fitting you used? If you could get that for me, I would really appreciate it - thanks!

Steve

Funkmaster: The one that I used came with my WCF intake. If you was to call them, I'm sure they would point you in the right direction.

------------------

85 GT 3.4
14.9 @ 90 1.9 60' Old TH125/3.06
Unknown New 4T60/3.42

ooooooh thanks!!!!!

Mad 'plus' action from me to you, arr!!!

On those fittings, I've made a few by turning down the male side of a M-F npt adapter and then taping it for 5/16-18. I used a lath but yoy can do it with a drill press also.

quote Originally posted by The Funkmaster: But with a fuel pressure adjuster, the only thing that a gauge off of the feed line is gonna read is the pump pressure. We want to know what the pressure after the adjustable regulator is... So the gauge has to be off of the rail. Somehow.

I could easily be wrong but.... I thought the regulator adjusted the pressure at the far end of the injectors. Another words, it sets the fuel pump side of the system pressure and after the regulator the fuel is returned to the tank? Hmmm, must go look at my aurora injector manifold...

Ok, this won't help too much...

The early N* injector manifold is what I said, the regulator is placed after all the injectors and dumps the extra fuel back to the tank. The new recall stainless injector manifold has a slightly different design, the regulator is before all the injectors but the line to the injectors has no exit other than going through the injectors and is common (no regulation or restriction) to the inlet line from the pump. The return line comes off the bottom of the regulator housing. either system uses the regulator to regulate pressure from the farthest injector all the way back upstream to the pump. the excess is return fuel.

Your system could be different but I doubt it. Make sure you feel comfortable about which is correct before you start cutting.

[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 11-07-2006).]

You can put those pics up of the cold start injector line mod if you want Funkie.

Can do sir:

Components apart...

Components together...


Should be easy enough to do I'm going to see if I can find a flexible braided steel line to run off the 'T', should make it nice'n sharp

Props to Francis, he heard the the idea of putting the gauge on the CSI line and within a single day actually fabricated the whole setup. The man's pro!

-Steve

thanks funkie. BTW: I still have to pickup the right T fitting, I just used that one to give you and idea. I need get one with two 1/8" males and one 1/16" male to match up the gauge line. That would make it look much smaller and less complicated. You could also use one with 3 male 1/8" and just change one end of the line going to the gauge. And those compresson fittings worked great on the line, so much so that i had to grind the one off that I put on the end to see how tight it would fit! I painted the lines (not the fittings) black (engine will be black with near chrome intake) and the whole thing looks good and won't be all that noticable either.

I have a quick Q for ya mate: I got everything working, but I haven't installed a chip (I'm leaning towards the M06 chip), and my fuel pressure is near 47psi. However, when I tap the throttle quickly, the engine stumbles and sometimes dies. However, when giving it gas gradually, it runs up nicely.

Is that because of the stock chip?

Thanks!

[This message has been edited by The Funkmaster (edited 11-09-2006).]

Help! I gotta get it running properly today... Hope I can limp it to the exhaust shop. Maybe I will switch out the chip first.

I sent that question on to Troy. Does it do with the stock chip?

Well, it seems the computer tried to fix the problem... after about 30 seconds of *terrible* engine sputtering and bucking, it smoothed out to 'driveable' status. There's a little bit less power below 4000 RPM, but it breathes well up to and past 6000. That's with the stock chip, so once I swap the chip to the new one, I guess the power issue will be resolved. Of course, some proper tuning will be good. I'll be doing that this saturday.

The EGR never has been a problem... I've run the car without it every time I've driven it.

Soooo... A little bit of tuning and I think we'll have a winner!

You should have more power below 4k rpm too, checkout the dyno sheet on Matts car. May not be noticable but it should not feel like you have less. Dont forget to drive it some to reset everything when you chnage chips. Tuning should do it.

The "less power at low RPM" might be an illusion.
I noticed that when I did my mods (1.6 rockers and power pulley, on top of the Trueleo) it felt like there was less power at lower RPM.
In reality, there was more, but there was a lot more in the upper RPM.

Good point Raydar... I guess you could get that impression

quote Originally posted by Raydar: The "less power at low RPM" might be an illusion. I noticed that when I did my mods (1.6 rockers and power pulley, on top of the Trueleo) it felt like there was less power at lower RPM. In reality, there was more, but there was a lot more in the upper RPM.

Oh, I have no doubt that there's more power waiting for me... But right now, the car's in a bad state of tune, with fuel pressure not optimal and the wrong chip in there. The ass-dyno says I definitely have way more power up high, that's for sure... So far I really, really dig the intake and headers. Good job guys!

Steve

quote Originally posted by Raydar: The "less power at low RPM" might be an illusion. I noticed that when I did my mods (1.6 rockers and power pulley, on top of the Trueleo) it felt like there was less power at lower RPM. In reality, there was more, but there was a lot more in the upper RPM.

Less "power" is what? HP or TQ? Torque is what you easily feel. Maybe you may have lost some. Only a dyno chart will tell the truth in this case.

quote Originally posted by Alex4mula: Less "power" is what? HP or TQ? Torque is what you easily feel. Maybe you may have lost some. Only a dyno chart will tell the truth in this case.

That was the dyno chart I posted elsewhere, here. Admittedly, I wasn't able to dyno the Trueleo by itself. Only after I added the rockers, pulley, and chip that was tuned to accommodate.

There *is* a possibility that the rockers lost me some bottom end, all by themselves, as compared to the Trueleo with no other mods.
Taken as a package, the increased area under the curve was huge, even at lower RPM.

I can dig for the chart again if anyone wants me to post it again.

Be gentle with it while you're driving on the stock chip. Its way too lean up top for the amount of air you're flowing now, and your 2.8 doesn't have a knock sensor. If you hear anything that you think might even sound like pinging, back off it. I couldn't get on the gas hard at all with mine after I installed the Trueleo, ported lower and rockers until I got the chip tuned. Don't want to burn up a piston on your way to the shop to get it tuned!

The dyno sheet is on page 18 of this thread under a response from Raydar. That was done on a stock 3.4 without and then with our intake. I think the only other mod was a DM bored out TB. As you can on the chat, bottom end torque looks fine ! BTW: the green area is all power gained. ANd yes drive it nice until you get to read those exhaust gas temps.

Yeah, I turned up the fuel pressure a little bit so it wouldn't lean out too much on me. And I have forged pistons in there so I'm sure it's OK.

I've gotta get this thing tuned up soon, I am hoping to get a buddy's 4 gas analyser from his shop so I can see what it's doing... Get the fuel pressure gauge hooked up... and throw the new chip in there. Might have to go to a local high performance shop to give it the last 'tweaks' though.

I can't believe I killed a 25pg thread!

ttt.

we're you at with getting it tuned funky?

Still haven't had time to do anything with it... So busy with moving and looking for work.

I'm planning on getting the chip in by tomorrow, and hopefully finding some fittings I can use for the FPG. I'll definitely keep you up to date

Cheers

Steve

quote Originally posted by The Funkmaster: hopefully finding some fittings I can use for the FPG. Steve

Here is how I solved my "vacuum port blocking FPG" problem. I couldn't come up with any fittings that would work so I did this.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/077969.html

thanks!

I made a change on the headers. Instead of using box stock for the flange support bar, I used 3/16 x 1 flat steel. It looks better and does not need to be notched for the dipstick and also has the same if not more mass to it. I'll probably take some pictures of it before it gets shipped.

I figured 'er out.

I'm going to remove the fuel rail bolts, pull the rail up and pop the injectors free of the lower intake manifold, and then slide the rail to the side - Just far enough to get the gauge on. Then I'll pressurise the system, set the pressure and replace the rail after removing the FPG again. Foolproof!

Francis, did you have any recommendations as to the proper pressure? I was thinking of shooting for 48, but I'm sure you will have some info for me... Thanks!

Steve

try 44lbs and see how it runs

I will try that. Here's those pics of the flat bar stock between the ports:




Looks nice!

With the bar stock, we dont have to step the brace so the dipstick will clear. Overall it also makes it look better and there's probably more mass to the bar than the hollow box stock so it should be stronger too. Headed out to buy more of that bar stock now. In addition, where Funky had to pry his in place, I dont think that we be a problem anymore. I made a few changes to fix it. The last I set I welded up and will probably ship sat or monday, I put back on the engine to make sure they fit easy with the jig not in place. They did and I'll do that with each set just to be sure. Dont know if you guys really care to hear about little things like that, but were not GM, just Fiero nuts like the rest of you and I figured maybe a few would be interested.
The site email is still acting up so send your emails to me also at rspiderii@aol.com