- let me know when you can do mine...

Man am i glad this guy lives just up the road from me.

I am going to be picking his brain for pointers when it comes time to do my bodywork.

Amazed everytime i check in on this thread.

I'm afraid there isn't much grey matter left to pick. But you're welcome to try!

I've been fixing some minor damage on the hood and fenders, little cracks and chips and stuff. It's not exactly exiting, but has to be done.

I got bored waiting for the resin to cure, so went off on a bit of a tangent. Since the fenders and rocker panels were removed, a sizeable portion of the frame was exposed. I decided to pull the quarterpanels as well, and hit the exposed parts of the frame with POR-15. I then filled all the rivet holes with threaded rivets. Now the rocker panels are attached with #10 machine bolts. Same goes for the bottom edges of the fenders and quarterpanels. No more drilling out rivets for me!

Can you post a picture of the threaded rivets and supply some more info on them? It sounds like a great idea and I would like to do the same once I get around to putting the panels back on. Great job by the way.

Nolan

No problem! Actually, we were talking about it in this thread.

I took a couple photos of it, too. Here is a shot of the barenaked frame on the passenger side, where the front fender goes. The red arrows point out the threaded rivets.



And here's the rocker panel installed on the driver's side, using #10 x 3/4" machine bolts with washers.

Those are some times called Rivnuts. I bought a MAC tools kit that comes with the rivet gun and a assortment of vivnuts. Very handy.

quote Originally posted by Sourmug: Can you post a picture of the threaded rivets and supply some more info on them? It sounds like a great idea and I would like to do the same once I get around to putting the panels back on. Great job by the way. Nolan

I bought a kit from jcwhitney - works great - can get a supply of the rivnuts from mcmaster.com also

Thanks for the info guys!

(+'s to those who didn't have em)

Nolan

WOOHOO!!! All of the fabrication work on the hood, scoop, and fenders is done! It's all over but the shouting, now.

I spent the last week or so doing finish work, plus some more repairs on this beat-up old hood. Here's an example:





Those little ledges that the headlight doors used to rest on were FUBAR. I had to replicate them in fiberglass. It was tedious work. But it had to be done, because the lenses for the flushmount headlights need them.

Today I wetsanded the whole thing with 320 grit. Tomorrow I get to play with my new paint gun!

I'm seriously thinking of installing gas springs, too. Should I continue with that in this thread, or start a new one?

Gas springs where? I think if you are keeping it to the hood keep it in the thread and tell me what you want for the whole setup :-D

But that is just my lowly opinion, if nothing else just tell me how much for the hood and I'll be happy :-D Thanks for the awesome thread

WHOA! Back from the dead!

I'm going to replace the sliding metal prop rod on the hood with a gas spring. The gas spring won't install in the same place. It'll be closer to the hood hinge (driver's side).

Actually, I might be able to start work on the bracketry for it tomorrow. I'll post part numbers and stuff once I'm sure that it actually works.

As promised, here's the info on the hood strut project.

The idea is to replace that sliding prop rod thing with a gas spring. The gas spring does not mount in the same place. One end is attached to the driver's side frame rail, just in front of the spare tire boot. The other end attaches to the driver's side hood hinge, using a homemade bracket.

The gas spring that I used is McMaster-Carr part #4138T569, rated for 90lb.

I made a cardboard template of the hinge bracket, so I could make sure it would work before chopping up some metal. Below is a scan of the final design. You can print it and use it as a template.



This is what the bracket looks like installed on the hood. It's made of 1/8" thick aluminum.



The next task is to make the bottom bracket. I bought a normal steel L-bracket at the local hardware store, and modified it. The photo below shows where it was drilled and cut.



And here it is installed on the driver's side frame rail. I had to remove the spare tire boot in order to gain access to the spot where the bracket is mounted, to drill the holes and install the mounting screws. Below, you see the bracket installed with the gas spring attached.



Let's zoom out a little bit...



And a little bit more...



Notice how far open the hood is. The gas strut opens the hood a little bit further than the old prop rod did. That helps to keep the fenders out of my way while I'm working in there. No complaints here!

That's a damn good idea.

I wishI had thought of it (actually, I did but you got your in befor I did). I am using one on each side though. Do you have a pic of the hood closed? Does the gas strut push up on it?

Very nice job (I will be coping your hood/fender mod).

I love clam shell hoods, but I'm used to seeing an engine under one. How about doing the back end? OBTW---Great Job!

Thanks for the compliments. To answer some questions...

One of my main concerns was that the gas spring would push up on the one side of the hood and knock it out of whack. I took care to make sure that didn't happen. Luckily, I succeeded.

BTW, imitation is the best form of flattery. And just for the record, I'm not the first person to do the fender mod. I'm imitating someone else. He should be flattered.

I actually have plans to attach the rear fenders to the decklid, similar to the hood mod. But that's off in the future.

Alot of words could describe that hood mod but all I can say is WOW and my hat is off to you ! I am just now starting to read up on glassing due to all the mods going on here ! You guys are bad influences ! ha ha

After reading this i wish i hadnt of painted my car just yet. Now I have to sand it all off so i can do something like this. This is such a cool idea! I think if i do do it ill put the BMW fin venty thingys on the fenders and id prolly "dress it up" with some fancy sheet aluminum and rivet work on the inside. I got a few electric motors i can use to make the hood open & close via button. I think id mount my mirrors on the fender too, close to the door jam. Would that look wierd?

quote Originally posted by Chris Hodson: After reading this i wish i hadnt of painted my car just yet. Now I have to sand it all off so i can do something like this. This is such a cool idea! I think if i do do it ill put the BMW fin venty thingys on the fenders and id prolly "dress it up" with some fancy sheet aluminum and rivet work on the inside. I got a few electric motors i can use to make the hood open & close via button. I think id mount my mirrors on the fender too, close to the door jam. Would that look wierd?

actually the farther forward your mirrors are the smaller your blind spot gets.. you'd have to mount them far enough forward that you could see them clearly through the windshield , otherwise the pillar would block your view. use some power mirrors so that you can still adjust them and your good to go.

quote Originally posted by Blacktree: The topside of the hood/scoop/fender mod is done, except for some minor detail stuff. So that allowed me to spray on some primer... so it can be one solid color again. Pictures like these are what keep me going.

Are you planning to do this on the back? That is where our cars actually need it, I've always thought of doing this for mine, and I will like to see what your plans were?

Looking good!
JG

Or longer mirror mounts? Im sure something like that would look cool, or at least..different. Im interested in how someone would do the back like this?

When I start work on the decklid/fender mod, I'll start a new thread about it. I don't want to reveal anything until I'm sure it'll work.

i have been working on this mod in my mind for years, even to the point of cutting up my fenders, but alas i have yet to apply the 'glass. i have also been working on a rear tilt thing as well, but that will be for later.

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1987 Pontiac Fiero GT, 148,000 miles! decklid window, silver guages. rear ended someone, and now the rebuilding starts! More pics of my 87 GT can be found here
1985 Pontiac Fiero 2m4 auto, 222K miles and counting <-my first car, and i still cant get rid of her!
2002 Toyota Celica GT, 5-speed, 47K miles <-FOR SALE!
A 4 year olds knowledge of science: No matter how much jello you put into a swimming pool you still can't walk on water.

bump to keep it fresh and to see any new ideas

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/073244.html

Have you done anything else lately.

Let's see....

I built a rear "diffuser fascia" (which involved modding the trunk and building a custom exhaust), installed a new set of wheels, installed an '84 decklid, and did a bunch of maintenance work on the engine.

So yeah, I've done a couple things lately.

Looks fantastic!!! Looks like you're going to have some copycats regarding that hood....including me!

Wait till you see what this guy does next !!

Blacktree is really doing some creative stuff !

quote Originally posted by Joe Torma: Looks fantastic!!! Looks like you're going to have some copycats regarding that hood....including me!

Took the words right out of my mouth... I mean the letters right out of my fingers!

Blacktree, Great work! I have one question. How the heck do you get fibergalss to stick to our plastic cars? Obviously, you must first rough up the area to be fiberglassed. I was intending to use a wire wheel mounted to a angle grinder. 10,000 RPM of wire wheel action should do the job

Anyways, after roughing it up, what kind of resin do you use? I see your using plain ol fiberglass mat.

I tried fiberglassing a section of my door, using Polyester resin. It just kinda peeled off after it had dried. I tried roughing it up, but maybe I diddnt rough it up enough, or perhaps the wrong kind of resin.

Anyways, how do you manage to get your fiberglass to stick? A quick detailed explanation would be awesome.

Mike

quote Originally posted by Blacktree: As promised, here's the info on the hood strut project. The idea is to replace that sliding prop rod thing with a gas spring. The gas spring does not mount in the same place. One end is attached to the driver's side frame rail, just in front of the spare tire boot. The other end attaches to the driver's side hood hinge, using a homemade bracket. The gas spring that I used is McMaster-Carr part #4138T569, rated for 90lb. I made a cardboard template of the hinge bracket, so I could make sure it would work before chopping up some metal. Below is a scan of the final design. You can print it and use it as a template. This is what the bracket looks like installed on the hood. It's made of 1/8" thick aluminum. The next task is to make the bottom bracket. I bought a normal steel L-bracket at the local hardware store, and modified it. The photo below shows where it was drilled and cut. And here it is installed on the driver's side frame rail. I had to remove the spare tire boot in order to gain access to the spot where the bracket is mounted, to drill the holes and install the mounting screws. Below, you see the bracket installed with the gas spring attached. Let's zoom out a little bit... And a little bit more... Notice how far open the hood is. The gas strut opens the hood a little bit further than the old prop rod did. That helps to keep the fenders out of my way while I'm working in there. No complaints here!

has anyone used 2 struts with a lower rating ?
awsum idea btw im already making the hood plate and will also make the lower mount out of alum as well

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87 Fiero GT 5sp with Vortec L35 4300 Turbocharged V6
Bully Stage 2 clutch
Syclone intake manifold and engine management with Moates adapter and chip burner
Air/water intercooler and Devil's Own progressive water/alky injection
50lb injectors, 3 bar map sensor, Walboro fuel pump and Jabasco Intercooler pump
LM1 wideband on custom manifolds and 3" stainless exhaust system
T31/T04B S4 turbo with a Super T61 in the box
S10 caliper conversion.
Murphy's Constant Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value
Murphy's Law of Thermodynamics Things get worse under pressure.
Arthur C. Clarke "Any significantly advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"

Your scoop looks good, I also like the fender/trunk lid unit. Your scoop ia about the same size as mine and I discovered allthought I made it quite strong, I was getting some cracks in the init do to twesting. So I welded two plates to either end of a steel bar and then bolted/epoxied it to the underside (i can take a picture if you want) and now its plenty stiff enough and no more cracks. Glad it happened beofre I painted the car.

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[IMG]



Trueleo.com/fiero.htm
RSpiderII@aol.com

yes, pics please..

I have made my own using 2 struts. I would post pics but I cant get PIP to work (its not getting a profile).

quote pheonix97031 said: A quick detailed explanation would be awesome.

Quick + detailed = oxymoron?

On a more serious note, I believe I explained earlier in the thread how I managed to make the resin stick to the plastic. It involves using wide overlaps (at least an inch) and feathering the edges with rough sandpaper to increase surface area as much as possible. I also use epoxy resin (West System brand) and glass fiber cloth. I didn't use any of the random mat on this project. In addition, the filling/glazing putty that I use (Elmers brand) is also epoxy-based.

To make sure the fenders stay attached to the hood, I feathered the fender plastic on top and bottom, and applied fiberglass to both sides. So the fender is sandwiched between two layers of fiberglass.

So far, the fenders and hood scoop are holding up well. There are a couple cracks, one where I filled the antenna hole, and one where I repaired a large chip in the front edge of the hood. But those happened because I got impatient. There's also some glass fiber "read-through" on the hood scoop. But that's because I left some glass fiber exposed. I guess I can chalk that up to inexperience.

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 05-25-2007).]

any updates on this? hows it holding up?

The hood is holding up alright. It's developed a couple small stress cracks near the edges, but nothing that can't be fixed.

Oh, and FYI the rest of the build project is being covered HERE. I decided to conglomerate all the work on the car into a single thread. Everything I do to the car will be posted in that thread. So this thread is basically finished.

quote Originally posted by Blacktree: The hood is holding up alright. It's developed a couple small stress cracks near the edges, but nothing that can't be fixed. Oh, and FYI the rest of the build project is being covered HERE. I decided to conglomerate all the work on the car into a single thread. Everything I do to the car will be posted in that thread. So this thread is basically finished.

OIC, my bad!

Alot of hard work here, would hate to see it archived.