Hi all.

A year of planning, and finally it is going. I have had many ideas what to swap, but now it is like this:
Current: 3.4 camaro engined manual 85 fiero.

Pulled the car off the engine 2 weeks ago and yesterday bought a 3800 series 1 with a 4t60e from pontiac trans sport minivan.
Today I removed the fiero cradle from the engine, removed minivan cradle from that engine and mated fiero cradle with minivan engine with no custom mounts at all.

What i did:
moved the front trans mount to the "other" holes(closer to pass.side)
dropped the engine in. Fitted like a glove in the front and rear trans mounts.
Next: engine mount. The minivan mount is large enough to be used with stock fiero engine rubber. Additionally, one hole is at the right place also, so all-in-all if you swap this motor (1993 minivan) then all you need to do to mount it, is drill one hole.
Unfortunately i did not have the large size drill bits with the cordless drill so only thing for me to do at this point, was to grind off rear bolt of the mount. So it is mounted with only one bolt right now. Will drill it later when i get my new mounts.

This was all done in one day between showering rain at the backyard. (garage floor is not poured yet.). Also no hoist.

Pics tomorrow, forgot to take them today.


Questions:
Does anyone have electric diagrams for this minivan? I would appreciate that. The connectors of interest are:
1. the one going to IP cluster or fuse box.
2. 3-4 at the drivers side close to trans connectors that should go to some body electrics.

Sorry, no pics. drag-and-dropped those to firefox instead of the folder i created and those are a goner.

Anyhow. Elevated the car using bricks and standard issue tire jack enough to pull the cradle in from drivers side wheel-well. 2 hours of rocking the car and cradle left-right-up-down-ahead-reverse and in it was.

So. At this point the engine is in, and the questions remain.

Axles: I'll go tomorrow to get the axles that was originally with the engine to try the lengths.

Electric: there are several connectors laying around. On the trans side there are few and on the battery side also. Will try to get in depht of it tomorrow.

Cable: original manual shifter cable is too short to use even short term with the box. will the auto fiero one do? (manual shift cable is 2in too short)

Pass-key: is there a pass-key thingie in the 1993 pontiac trans-sport?

Purge canister: fiero has 2 vac oses to the canister, minivan has only the one trough the solenoid. I think I need to connect one of the hoses to vac and other to the solenouid.

Thanks.

Pics:

Engine bay:


Engine mount:


front trans mount:


rear trans mount:


"working" area:

yay, another series 1! sweet!

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THANK YOU!!! I have been trying and trying to make the point that the minivan mounts let you put in a 90 degree V6 and/or 4T60e without fabrication, and you finally took the pics to prove it!

Good stuff, I hope it runs well for you!

Today's progress:

Started hacking the wiring:


Those are C203 and C500 pigtails.

Additionally drove around and acquired both minivan axles, minivan shifter cable and minivan exhaust down pipe.

Weather was not good all day, so nothing done IN the car.

I have pics here:

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/052684.html

plus more if you are interested.

Are you close to Ober-See?

[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 07-31-2007).]

If you still need the Pontiac Transport wiring diagrams, I have them in a PDF file. I'd be happy to e-mail them to you. I'll just need your e-mail address. I couldn't figure out how to attach them to a PM on this forum.

Thanks for the support.

Today's progress: (weather was good, only one shower).

Drivers side axle:
inside + shaft = minivan
outside = fiero


Pass side axle:
inside + shaft = minivan
outside = fiero


Minivan shifter cable worked with a little modding. Also grinded down the limiter nut on the shifter to gain additional front-back movement.


Pic of the trunk wiring from past days.

E-mailed you the files this morning. Hope they help, good luck.

Uhh.

Been a long day. Did not feel like turning nuts and bolts, so instead I worked on wiring.
All necessary wiring is done to get the engine going. So topped up the oil and tried...
*click* ... but no turning. Starter solenoid works and even starter draws power, but will not turn over.

Tried with a wrench to turn engine. Quite free. But starter dont work

Anyway, I still have to connect coolant hoses, look over gasoline ones(had a leak there) and tighten the pass.side bolts and nuts on the wheel and cradle.

Thanks for the wiring pdf-s. Did not help much since those I already had but I really appreciate the effort

Make sure your coil pack is grounded* Just lettin ya know so its not a problem later

Arrggh. And the fuel pump...

Turned ignition, fuel pump fired up... builded pressure... and then went slower and slower and slower until died. Like it has builded so much pressure that it cant move.

Going to try to disconnect fuel line and see is it dead or not.

Nice to see another N/A project. Mine is finally coming together and running. A little mod to the shifter and few lst minute things and it may even be road worthy soon.

88Ironduke

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Pilots with out maintainers are just pedestrians with a cool jacket and sunglasses.
I.Y.A.M.Y.A.S.

It's ALIVE!
First try: http://fiero.otsing.org/swap/Alive.wmv
(save link as and play ~500KB)

That seemed quick... Good job!

There are still ton of things to do.

1. fix the ignition lock - broke that in the process, now the whole column in in pieces.
2. add backup light relay to feed 2 different signals for ecm + the lights.
3. throttle cable.
4. relays on the bat side need a fixture
5. cruise wires need to get from air filter location/trunk to the column.
6. cruise needs to be added.
7. alt is dead, needs repair/replace
8. starter wire need new end at the starter nut.
9. C203 is all over the pass.seat. wires needs to be cutted to right length and center console fixed.
10. auto shifter needs to be found and installed.
11. cluch pedal needs removing, right now it is stuffed behind the carpet.
12 Brake pedal needs new lever. the large one of auto cars.
13. backup lights needs to be wired.
14 coilovers needs to be installed, I still have not received the top things from WCF. Their e-mail answering is also with a low grade.
15. inline filler to be made/installed
16. ...

Coil holder made from minivan dogbone mount.


Coil holder installed.


Dogbone at the place of PS pump. Again, cut out from minivan dogbone mount.

nicceeeee

No progress, just went shopping(minivan u-pull-it) and acquired:
fuel pressure reg. to fix the fuel pump thingie.
cruise diaphragm
some vac lines
vac canister
streering column fixing thingies. (Yes, the infamous ign.lock thing that is around the pivot pin broke)
lights(driving/half) switch
turn signal lever with all things. (+cruise from my current situation)

Also took 3.1 van distributor and fixed dad's '91 minivan on the roadside. rotor plastic had losen a piece of metal terminal on top and it had broke everything in there)

forget it me bad

[This message has been edited by ducattiman (edited 08-07-2007).]

Got the steering column back together. The pressure plate pusher tool consisted me in the drivers seat pushing the plate with my legs while having hands free for the snap-ring

Measured the brake pedal. Minivan one is the correct length but it needs a flange to push the brake switch.

Minivan cruise vacuum brake switch did not fit. And also I need aditional brake inputs for my ecm so in order to supply all the demand i'm gonna put 2 relays on the back to provide the inputs + one additional purge canister solenoid to act like the vacuum switch on the brake pedal.

Fitted throttle cable. Loop is still needed, right now I can push te pedal to the floor and have 25% throttle. Thinking about a piece of tube in the other end witch would make the cable the correct length + give me aditional inch of cable in the engine compartment.

Sold old engine and box for 600$

Started to think about exhaust. Fenno bends are too large diameter but the P8487 mufflers are the right size. Exhaust will be done as follows:
flange, 90 bend towards down, flex joint, T connector made from 2 90 bends, 2 mufflers towards right and left, 2 90 bends towards back, tips.
All piping will be 60mm(2 1/3 in).

figured out the location of the cruise servo - between original air filter and purge canster. That way the minivan cable was fine and also cruise connector was not stretched.

Since I acquired plastic vacuum can also, I need a place to put it. It is quite large, so I am thinking about putting it away from the engine compartment. Maybe in the stock air inlet area behind the wheel-well-covers.

Enough for now...

Do NOT let me near a welding machines EVER NEVER again.*

* - (finished my exhaust building and the welds look so ugly, that I need a thermal tape to cover it or serious mental injury could occur)

Huh. First time for everything.

lol,,,come on share the pics

quote Originally posted by ducattiman: lol,,,come on share the pics

Those are too ugly to share seriously. Did not take pictures on purpose. I'll at least have the layout and can have them re-welded by a pro.
Let's just say, that i had welded the first circle already, when I noticed the Argon gas bottle at the rear of the thing. After opening the tap, things got a little better:P
I dont have any welding equipment, just a friendly shop where I can do stuff if I don't mess up the equipment or get in the way.

Progress again.

Wired brake, reverse and cruise. Now I have 2 relays under the armpit witch provides the inputs for the engine, cruise and brake lights.
Brought a can of washing oil, can of oil and two filters.

Got my inline filler from radiator repair shop. If anyone is in the area, where delivery times are far and beyond normal, then here's the fix:
Radiator shops have new cap holders(copper) and all you need is a cap, this holder and a T of usual household brass from hardware store. Take those parts to radiator shop and they'll solder the cap holder to the T fitting. Mine was with hardware+labor ~35$.

So, when I get off work, going to wash the engine from inside.

Filled up the gbox. and tried to drive( ~1/8 mile ). Still not good. Engine just lacks power. I still blame the fuel pressure regulator.

Now I NEED to get it running ASAP, since my other car got smashed up today by a truck witch just did not see me and changed lanes and allmost drove over me. So my Magentis (Kia Optima in USA i think) will need to go to body shop in a week or two.

What kind of codes is the computer flashing at you? And where are the pictures lol!

quote Originally posted by Chris Hodson: What kind of codes is the computer flashing at you? And where are the pictures lol!

Computer will not flash anything, since this engine was from 1994(not 1993) trans-sport and this does not have the diagnostic pin to ground it. This one can only be read with a scanner. (I even located the exact wreck from where my engine came from and looked into the diagnostic connector. No test terminal there.)

I'll try to take some pics today.

Fixed the fuel pump issue, It only had 8 volts on the terminal. So I also had spare fuse(INJ2) for it, so I hotwired it there. Works fine.
Drove around a little more, one liter of ATF is needed more. Still under the add mark after driving.
Bled the rear brakes.

Now there is problem with engine running like crap. The problem can be:
Injectors frozen.
Spark plugs.
One coil.
Coil plate(ignition module)

Will buy a set of NGK TR55 plugs today so I can rule out the plugs.

NGK-s was not on the warehouse here, but our us car dealer had delco plugs. So changed and engine purrs like new*
* if we don't listen the ticking noise.
Bought new insurance and loaded old engine and exhaust to trailer to ship them to new owners tomorrow.

Old engine is sold and will go into this car: http://www.usaraud.ee/?id=5_5_20_40
Exhaust is sold and will go to this car(actually, this is my previous fiero that I sold to the current owner) http://www.usaraud.ee/?id=5_5_20_535

Will go to have the yearly inspection done on Sunday or Monday.

Our little Fiero community where everything is needed by somebody

Driving impressions:

Engine does not have power, limps on idle, does not change to 4th on highway.

Inspection failed.
CO 2.139 (max allowed 4.500%)
CH 3283 (max allowed 1000ppm) (unburned fuel)

So it runs way rich. If I add the limping part, then it seems like one or two cylinders do not fire.
Plugs and wires are good. I have a spare coil also, but firstly I need to know witch cylinders do not do the job they're required.

What else can cause this?
coil?, coil plate?, bleeding injector?

Engine problem pinpointed. TPS bad. New one is on the way.

Now the hard part, the noise from the engine. Shop told me(by listening it) that it is a rod bearing and I need to remove the crank for machining and then I need repair-size rod bearing. estimate ~1000$ if I take it to shop to be done. Now this is way too much. Can I just swap the rod bearing? how much is the crank damaged by 15 miles of light driving? (before that, the engine sat for a year and before that it rolled over with a van).

Help?

A diff engine is like 250 bucks right?

quote Originally posted by Chris Hodson: A diff engine is like 250 bucks right?

Wrong. I don't live in the states Diff engine is ~900$ and still in "unknown" state of wear. For 250 i could get european crap here, but not US Iron.

Edit: $ has gone cheaper, so recalculated 800->900$ (~10K EEK)

[This message has been edited by Fog (edited 08-30-2007).]

Oh i didn't notice you were out of the states! i guess with that sort of money you could rebuild the engine. This sucks i wish i could help you rip it out and fix it. My swap is finally working well aside from a few shift issues, the power is there its just not using it right, like the computer cant tell what gear the tranny is in. i think i know how to fix it i just need to get the part. Good luck my friend, keep on it!