Is that plastic plumbing from Home Depot (or such) that you are using with your intercooler?
Great job on the build bro, keep it up
lol why yes i got it at home depot why spend $20 on a sillicone elbo when you can use rubber up to 20+psi for $5. and aluminum transmits heat veary well and Black PVC has tinny air pockets throughout the tube "like insulation" next time your at home depot go look at the end of a black PVC pipe, and if it gets hot enuf to melt.... well you dont want your intercooling piping that hot any way so add a heat shield. the way i have it setup there is only 2ft from the outlet of the intercooler and the intake 7in of PVC cut in 2to3in sections and 4 rubber elbos.
oh another good thing, the elbos and straits come WITH hoseclamps lol
[This message has been edited by 3.6lvvt6spdgt (edited 09-11-2008).]
lol why yes i got it at home depot why spend $20 on a sillicone elbo when you can use rubber up to 20+psi for $5. and aluminum transmits heat veary well and Black PVC has tinny air pockets throughout the tube "like insulation" next time your at home depot go look at the end of a black PVC pipe, and if it gets hot enuf to melt.... well you dont want your intercooling piping that hot any way so add a heat shield. the way i have it setup there is only 2ft from the outlet of the intercooler and the intake 7in of PVC cut in 2to3in sections and 4 rubber elbos.
oh another good thing, the elbos and straits come WITH hoseclamps lol
The melting point for PVC is not very high so the combination of the heat and pressure from the air charge may cause it to fail, just use some mandrel bent pipe and a couple of 3" long connectors, you did such a nice job on the rest of it why stop there. I used radiator hose on my first boosted project (why pay all that money for silicone) with about 7 psi and still split the hose after moderate use right in the middle of handing a pick-up owner his butt nearly resulting in a return of the favor.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 09-11-2008).]
The melting point for PVC is not very high so the combination of the heat and pressure from the air charge may cause it to fail, just use some mandrel bent pipe and a couple of 3" long connectors, you did such a nice job on the rest of it why stop there. I used radiator hose on my first boosted project (why pay all that money for silicone) with about 7 psi and still split the hose after moderate use right in the middle of handing a pick-up owner his butt nearly resulting in a return of the favor.
i worked on a construction site and we used to put the PVC pipe in a heater to make it flexable and there where a cupple of time it was left in the oven to long and i have to say this is some tuff sh*t. ive used pvc for quit a few projects and never had a problem. if i do i will post pictures and eat my own words lol. if any thing its good to know what you will need when it comes to buying sillicone maybe someday i will go to a fully welded aluminum piping but not today.
[This message has been edited by 3.6lvvt6spdgt (edited 09-12-2008).]
well ive been working on heat shields and trying to get my engine to start and for some unknown reason my starter just gave out on me brand new starter to. good thing i had the recept. well i got the fans in and there not 7in fans like the guy told me they were they are 8in the intercooler is only 5.5in across leving 1.25in of fan sticking past the intercooler. no big deal they still pull the air throught like none other i used my battery charger to test them out and wow. i will be adding some sheet metal though. i have the heat shields made for the intake piping but they will need to be painted red i used 3" exhaust pipe to make the shield and its not stainles. i only have to make the decklid shield and the intercooler fan shrouds and i should be done with the sheet metal. i keep forgetting to take pictures but next time i have the shields off i will take pictures.
as far as the starting goes, we are still working on the fuel.
[This message has been edited by 3.6lvvt6spdgt (edited 09-16-2008).]
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05:04 AM
sardonyx247 Member
Posts: 5032 From: Nevada, USA Registered: Jun 2003
got some pictures for ya first i'd like to show you how much air the intercooler fans pull. the pack of camels has 6 smokes in it at seven smokes the pack slid off. and this in not a parlor trick the only thing holding the pack there is the vacume created by the fans nice here are the fans becaus i relized that every leaf i drive over has a potental of blocking my intercooler i made this. it will help keeping rock damage to a minimum to. here are the heat shields for the charg pipe from the intercooler to the intake.
[This message has been edited by 3.6lvvt6spdgt (edited 09-17-2008).]
You may want to attempt to fabricate a shroud and use one fan centrally located on your intercooler because the buisness area of the blades are so widely spaced on your fans you're going to have a large area of poor airflow beneath the hubs.
hey as yopu see above i have grate ait circulation the fans have a 1/2 inch gap between the hubs and the intercooler if there is a pressure drop i cant find it. also no room for a large shroud in fact the transmission mount gets in the way preventing me from adding a 3rd fan FYI just thought you might want to know.
i think i found the problem pin BC12 had a brake in it where it was spliced into BC11 i think this might have been causing my fuel issues. BC 11-12 are injector wires. i will be trying to start it agin latter today im waiting for a oil pressure sending unit tube in the mail mine was damaged. so i cant start the car till i got the oil leak fixed. cross your fingers lol
Loose that thick rigid wire mesh and use 1/4 to 3/8" square chicken wire for a guard if you're that concerned. You shouldn't have any greater risk of a rock hitting the intercooler than you do a rock impacting the condenser for the A/C where it is more likely to occur, especially considering the upward turn necessary to hit the intercooler.
Loose that thick rigid wire mesh and use 1/4 to 3/8" square chicken wire for a guard if you're that concerned. You shouldn't have any greater risk of a rock hitting the intercooler than you do a rock impacting the condenser for the A/C where it is more likely to occur, especially considering the upward turn necessary to hit the intercooler.
i agree but i would also need to buy a water tank, pump. radiator. and hoses. i dident want to spend $500 on an intercooler. there is a new intercooler out that uses your AC pump for cooling that would be best if you have AC unit. and i like my expanded steel. yes chicken wire would work
[This message has been edited by 3.6lvvt6spdgt (edited 09-19-2008).]
Originally posted by 3.6lvvt6spdgt: and i like my expanded steel. yes chicken wire would work
Okay keep the Frankenstein wire. I believe you can make that small water to air intercooler work for much less than $500 using more readily available parts. It certainly is tempting given its compact size.
Originally posted by Joseph Upson: Okay keep the Frankenstein wire. I believe you can make that small water to air intercooler work for much less than $500 using more readily available parts. It certainly is tempting given its compact size.
yeah prob, but this one cost me $120 including the expanded steal. i got the frankin wire installed i have pics will post veary soon
lol why yes i got it at home depot why spend $20 on a sillicone elbo when you can use rubber up to 20+psi for $5. and aluminum transmits heat veary well and Black PVC has tinny air pockets throughout the tube "like insulation" next time your at home depot go look at the end of a black PVC pipe, and if it gets hot enuf to melt.... well you dont want your intercooling piping that hot any way so add a heat shield. the way i have it setup there is only 2ft from the outlet of the intercooler and the intake 7in of PVC cut in 2to3in sections and 4 rubber elbos.
oh another good thing, the elbos and straits come WITH hoseclamps lol
Are you using Turbo GP 8F code, or code59? I'm currently running 8F code but since it limits you to 10 psi max in the chip programming due to there being no current software available able to accesses that constant, I'm going to start a new harness to switch to code59 for 3 bar MAP use and much higher boost levels.
You need to add some heat wrap to the shift cable closest to the exhaust pipe, the heat will certainly affect shifting ability if it gets hot enough. I have used a good layer of aluminum foil in a hot spot that worked well since it can be crimped by hand around the cable.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 09-21-2008).]
Are you using Turbo GP 8F code, or code59? I'm currently running 8F code but since it limits you to 10 psi max in the chip programming due to there being no current software available able to accesses that constant, I'm going to start a new harness to switch to code59 for 3 bar MAP use and much higher boost levels.
You need to add some heat wrap to the shift cable closest to the exhaust pipe, the heat will certainly affect shifting ability if it gets hot enough. I have used a good layer of aluminum foil in a hot spot that worked well since it can be crimped by hand around the cable.
How is it limited to 10 psi? yeah the stock code is, But how do you say it is not changable, as in what constant? Is your chip programed at all or is it just the stock code?
How is it limited to 10 psi? yeah the stock code is, But how do you say it is not changable, as in what constant? Is your chip programed at all or is it just the stock code?
There is a limit in the unhacked portion of the code itself, if you check the constants you'll see that maximum boost only goes as high as a little over 10 psi, anything above that and fuel or spark is cut.
i have used the black plumbing pipe (it is ABS up here anyway , not PVC ) and rubber elbows and connectors on my turbo setup for over a year now .originally i used them because they were cheap and because i knew i was going to try different routing as i slowly got the plumbing the way i wanted it .they have held up really well .the only failure has been the odd elbow popping off .easy to fix , just loosen the clamp and pop it back on .just keep a nutdriver in the car . this winter i am going with silicone elbows and some steel piping , but this is mostly for looks ,as i am not planning on more than 12 psi boost .i enjoy your thread , keep the updates coming .
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10:53 PM
sardonyx247 Member
Posts: 5032 From: Nevada, USA Registered: Jun 2003
There is a limit in the unhacked portion of the code itself, if you check the constants you'll see that maximum boost only goes as high as a little over 10 psi, anything above that and fuel or spark is cut.
I saw that but why not just change it to go above 10psi? if the constants show up they can be changed.
I saw that but why not just change it to go above 10psi? if the constants show up they can be changed.
The maximum setting is just over 10 psi you can't set it any higher than what the constant will allow. Tunercat shows 189 kpa maximum, Tunerpro I believe is just over 10 psi. One member running the code whose name I do not recall was not able to reach 11 psi with the code limits set at the maximum setting.
oh save your valve cover gaskets i dont know how hard they are to find but they dont give u new ones and the fiero valve covers a fiero only part. everything else was a direct swap.
you can get these from any parts store if you just order the fiero specific ones i can get you the fel pro number here monday or tuesday
Are you using Turbo GP 8F code, or code59? I'm currently running 8F code but since it limits you to 10 psi max in the chip programming due to there being no current software available able to accesses that constant, I'm going to start a new harness to switch to code59 for 3 bar MAP use and much higher boost levels.
You need to add some heat wrap to the shift cable closest to the exhaust pipe, the heat will certainly affect shifting ability if it gets hot enough. I have used a good layer of aluminum foil in a hot spot that worked well since it can be crimped by hand around the cable.
i like the aluminum foil idea maybe some exta heavy duty aluminum foil. Im useing the old $58 code i have been thinking about swithching to the 59 for better tunabillaty. what was wrong was i did not soider the socket booster into the memcal i just pluged it in and it was causing problems + i musta bumped the ostrich from 28pin to 24pin oops. its all fixed now. i highly recomend soidering any thing you attach to the memcal for any one that does this. now that its running i found i need better exaust gaskets the one that came with the turbo kinda sucks.
im got a plan rolling in my head rite now to elimanate turbo lag. you know that point where you put the pedal to the metel and the engine is pulling more air than the turbo is putting out and it creates a vacume frome the turbo to the intake. im thinking about adding a check valve to the elbow attached to the TB to alow air into the charge pipe under low vacume. the BOV does not do this it might if you have it next to the TB but it will only open at -8psi i want it to let air in at -0.15 lbs
[This message has been edited by 3.6lvvt6spdgt (edited 09-22-2008).]
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12:56 AM
sardonyx247 Member
Posts: 5032 From: Nevada, USA Registered: Jun 2003
With a properly designed system and the right size turbo setup and you don't have lag. I hit full boost around 1800rpm.
But that is an interesting idea, and I have some thoughts on it. You could probably use a BOV valve for it,(you need a BOV that works off of vac and not boost) hook up the vac lead from the BOV and put in right in front of the TB in the charge pipe, and put some kinda filter on it so you dont get unfiltered air. so when you go WOT, I'm thinking there would be vac in front of the TB and thus open that BOV. I don't know if any of it would work, but again an interesting idea.
i veary sure my turbo lag is due to a bad gasket that came with the turbo not the size of turbo i have a new better one comming that won't leak. lol but if the lag continues i will be moding my charge pipe.
Sardonyx247, I'm using a synapse BOV and it seems that it works just like that. The BOV sucks in unfiltered air at idle and light cruise (vac situations). The instructions even say to add a filter to the inlet/outlet of the BOV. Since it is a piston type, it reacts very fast and seems to work very well so far.
Fixed
[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 09-22-2008).]
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06:48 PM
sardonyx247 Member
Posts: 5032 From: Nevada, USA Registered: Jun 2003
Sardony, I'm using a synapse BOV and it seems that it works just like that. The BOV sucks in unfiltered air at idle and light cruise (vac situations). The instructions even say to add a filter to the inlet/outlet of the BOV. Since it is a piston type, it reacts very fast and seems to work very well so far.
my name on here is Sardonyx, I don't know why everyone leaves off the x. anyway, thinking about it, yeah a vac operated BOV would do just that, it is the boost activated ones that wouldn't. So I guess it is allready done.
ok well i got the gasket installed today."arived yesterday" turbo responds veary well now lol. and spent most of the day cleaning the car "the inside" as soon as i get a good ALDL recording i will shoot it over to darth and as soon as we get it to a point that its ok to rev the engine past 2k i will post a link for a video i dont want to post a video for an idleing car thats boring. i will always be doing something to my fiero so check back and see whats up.
my name on here is Sardonyx, I don't know why everyone leaves off the x. anyway, thinking about it, yeah a vac operated BOV would do just that, it is the boost activated ones that wouldn't. So I guess it is allready done.
so i removed the down pipe today to add a WB bung so i can tune the car better now all i need is to barrow a WB. also i relized that i never posted pics of the down pipe so... here are the exhaust tips from a corvette i think.
[This message has been edited by 3.6lvvt6spdgt (edited 10-04-2008).]
Your WB bung is to close to the turbo, they don't stand up to high temps very well and are advised to be installed further down the exhaust stream. My Zeitronix instructions state at least 16" from the turbo and before the catalytic converter and should be standing nearly straight up or between 10 and 12 position to avoid damage from condensation. You can use one of those bungs for an exhaust temp gauge. I purchased an O2 bung plug and drilled and tapped it for my EGT sensor.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 10-04-2008).]
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06:18 AM
sardonyx247 Member
Posts: 5032 From: Nevada, USA Registered: Jun 2003
No smog there I take it, (no cat) I have a cat where your muffler is and no muffler. It is quiter than a stock FieroV6 at idle, I do have 4 glass pack tips though.
Your WB bung is to close to the turbo, they don't stand up to high temps very well and are advised to be installed further down the exhaust stream. My Zeitronix instructions state at least 16" from the turbo and before the catalytic converter and should be standing nearly straight up or between 10 and 12 position to avoid damage from condensation. You can use one of those bungs for an exhaust temp gauge. I purchased an O2 bung plug and drilled and tapped it for my EGT sensor.
i dont think it matters O2 sensors needs to get to 600degrees befoer they work, and WB have a heated coil in them the heat them up. i will look into it.
no big deal they still pull the air throught like none other i used my battery charger to test them out and wow. 
i will be adding some sheet metal though.
for affordable inginuity!
