quote Originally posted by DPWood: Hey KurtAKX. I seem to recall part of the superduty block prep work was to drill out the main studs for 1/2-13. That would give you virtually any length main stud you desire from ARP to mount a windage tray as well as a crank scraper. Lovin' the info you got on the 3.0 litre. I have 2 rotating assemblies myself but both cranks are the older 2pc seal so it looks like I'll be figuring out a block adapter for the oil seal. Looks like a an old 153 tooth flywheel will work....but I'll have to get a clutch assembly to see if it will fit within the confines of the fiero tranny. There is about 3/4" more length on the mercruiser crank that will probably create a headache David

True, 1/2-13 TPI is even part of the procedure for the head bolts too when it comes to the Super Duty build manual, but I want to stick with all metric fastners (call me crazy). ARP has a good selection of studs for Mitsubishi 4G63s and whatnot that should be useful to me, its just a matter of sorting out what I can get, what I need, and who supplies ARP cheapest.

To that end, I'm open to hearing suggestions on who supplies ARP cheap.

[This message has been edited by KurtAKX (edited 10-07-2008).]

i called the boat shops today about the SBC pistions and no one really had any thing there was a mercucer mechanic (hs specilty) but he was out all day and his secritary couldnt name a crank shaft if it feel outa the sky and landed.... never mind
i did get quoted on a whole 3.0l for $300 he wouldnt sell me just thecrank (the engine was minus heads) any one ever swaped on of those in?

The block has a SBC bolt pattern that won't hook to a Fiero tranny. For 300 you'd get the crank, rods, pistons, cam and lifters for a 120/140HP engine. Not bad....but you might be able get better with a few more calls though. Check that it has the 1 piece rear main seal crank as KurtAKX has. I think it will be less hassle to adapt than the 2cp rear seal cranks that I have.

David

yea i have also been offerd the whole drivetrain for an ecotech for $400...

quote Originally posted by Bremertonfiero: i called the boat shops today about the SBC pistions and no one really had any thing there was a mercucer mechanic (hs specilty) but he was out all day and his secritary couldnt name a crank shaft if it feel outa the sky and landed.... never mind i did get quoted on a whole 3.0l for $300 he wouldnt sell me just thecrank (the engine was minus heads) any one ever swaped on of those in?

The trick is going to the boat shop parts desk/repair shop and ask if they have any 3.0L engines that are broken and leftover when one was replaced. They tend not to send them back to the manufacturer due to transportation costs. The shop I stopped at had 2. One had a cracked block due to poor winterization. And the other had a holed piston.

ok ill try that next time

quote Originally posted by Blue Shift: On that note, I stumbled across something useful on E-Bay - a very late Mercruiser 3.0 crank that had rod journals set for SBC rods... I don't know any more details, but I think it was like 2006 or so.

The only rod bearing listed in the Clevite/Mahle catalog for the 3.0 is the CB663 (common large journal SBC bearing) I think they might all be able to use SBC rods.

any progress on the 3.0 duke?

.... would be really neat to see this run

Yeah, I finally went up north last weekend and retrieved my compressor and die grinder to clearance the block.

I have been taking my time since there are a lot of parts of a 2.5 that can be scrutinized when seeking increased performance....
There are some oiling modifications as well as the head porting I need to do before this can go together.
I also need to get a cam ground, but I've had problems with Isky, Cam Techniques, and Comp cams.

I think my plan at this point is to build the 3.0 short block and break it in with a ported stock iron head, then put on the SD head once I know the bottom end is robust.

hey Kurt ,
any fresh pics and specs ?


i want to do the same thing ur doing with my 87 duke when i rebuild it , ok without the SD head .
I was thinking of using an double TBI like in the 5.0 or 5.7 V8 to feed the lil monster .

Question is :
is there a 3.0 crank with the "wheel" needed for the DIS?

sweet. Check this thread for intake parts/heads.

Just had a quick crankshaft question.

Okay, here goes. So the original fiero duke crankshaft has only 4 counter weights. I was looking around for replacement stuff hoping someone sells a forged one for this app or something. Would this one work:
http://www.apmengineparts.c...-crankshaft-kit.html

I thought it would be at least a little better since it has more counterweights (as long as it fits)
So can anyone tell me if it will work

Doesn't even look close.
But you can get a nice crank here.

quote Originally posted by Fieromaniac: hey Kurt , any fresh pics and specs ? i want to do the same thing ur doing with my 87 duke when i rebuild it , ok without the SD head . I was thinking of using an double TBI like in the 5.0 or 5.7 V8 to feed the lil monster . Question is : is there a 3.0 crank with the "wheel" needed for the DIS?

unfortunately, there is not.

quote Originally posted by guitarjerry: Just had a quick crankshaft question. Okay, here goes. So the original fiero duke crankshaft has only 4 counter weights. I was looking around for replacement stuff hoping someone sells a forged one for this app or something. Would this one work: http://www.apmengineparts.c...-crankshaft-kit.html I thought it would be at least a little better since it has more counterweights (as long as it fits) So can anyone tell me if it will work

My question is why? What have you got in mind for the mighty Duke?

quote Originally posted by guitarjerry: Just had a quick crankshaft question. Okay, here goes. So the original fiero duke crankshaft has only 4 counter weights. I was looking around for replacement stuff hoping someone sells a forged one for this app or something. Would this one work: http://www.apmengineparts.c...-crankshaft-kit.html I thought it would be at least a little better since it has more counterweights (as long as it fits) So can anyone tell me if it will work

Sorry, the Q4 crank is pretty different.

Guy bumped your other thread up to

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...2/HTML/087194-2.html

quote Originally posted by TopNotch: Doesn't even look close. But you can get a nice crank here.

thanks. But I was kinda looking for a crank that didn't cost more than I can get a brand new stock engine for

quote Originally posted by KurtAKX: I don't anticipate the block "blowing up", but there is a propensity for rod/crank problems at elevated power levels. This resolves that at the same time as adding power potential though increased displacement. I'm building something mild I can drive on the street, so I'm only attempting to make about 200 orse power.

Yeah, isn't the problem with the Duke's giving it up, because of the crank anyway? So with this 3 liter crank (which is obviously meant to handle torque in a boat), it should be able to handle plenty of power. As long as you go the route with the forged connecting rods (which I assume you'll do), then there's very little left on the engine that's weak?

I guess you'll want to probably have additional bolts drilled for the main caps... (I dunno, just guessing)...

I mean, the block itself isn't weak, right???

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Todd,
2008 Jeep Patriot Limited 4x2
2002 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr 4x2
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter