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SD4 Valve Cover on a Stock Duke (with pictures) by TopNotch
Started on: 07-20-2009 03:50 PM
Replies: 11
Last post by: LitebulbwithaFiero on 12-20-2009 09:32 PM
TopNotch
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Report this Post07-20-2009 03:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TopNotchClick Here to visit TopNotch's HomePageSend a Private Message to TopNotchDirect Link to This Post
This write-up will explain how I changed my duke from this:

to this:

Getting a Super Duty Valve cover on a stock duke takes a bit of doing -- especially if you want all sensors and emission controls in tact after the change.
The most obvious thing you can tell from the picture above is that you need to change the air cleaner. Basically, what you need to do is remove the snout, invert it, and mount on the side. My first attempt is not as good as I'd like it to be, so I think I'm going to do it again, and perhaps write that part up then.

The stock valve cover has a depression in it that the EGR valve leans into. Since I wanted my engine to still have an EGR valve after the change, I had to do two things to make it fit with the super duty cover. The first was to make an adapter plate to move the intake manifold back a little. To do this, I started with a chunk of aluminum 18" by 3" by 3/4", which I purchased from speedymetals.com:

(I had already started working on it when I took the picture.) When I was done, it looked like this:

To cut it out, I drilled holes at the corners of the large openings, then drilled a lot of little holes between, then cut with a saber saw, and then smoothed it with a rotary rasp on a drill press. I had to do a little tweaking after taking the picture, but that's basically the finished product. I used this piece between the head and intake manifold, with two intake manifold gaskets, and 50mm long bolts instead of the original ones.

When test-fitting the valve cover, I found two things in the way, indicated in this picture:

There is a temperature sensor that is too close, and a stud on top of one of the head bolts that is too high. The stud holds down a vacuum line and two ground wires. I had to cut a notch in the side of the valve cover to clear the sensor:

(You can see where my rasp slipped while I was cutting, but it doesn't show. And I cut the notch a little too deep and nicked a small hole in the cover, so I put JB Weld on the other side.)

I filed down the stud, and moved the ground wires to another position, as shown in this picture:

I screwed the sensor down a little farther than it was, because the bottom flange of it also hit the cover. And, after I filed down the stud, I used it to hold the vacuum line only.

Moving the intake manifold back alone isn't enough to allow room for the EGR valve. The way it mounts on the manifold, it leans towards the valve cover, so I had to cut off the base of another EGR valve to make a wedge that would allow the EGR valve to sit upright. The wedge looks like this:

When the manifold is mounted with the spacer, wedge, EGR, and throttle body, it looks like this:

I have to use an after-market EGR valve only with this setup, because the stock ones sit too low, and hit the throttle body. But I have been using an after-market one anyway for a couple of years, and the car passes emissions with flying colors with it. Notice how the intake manifold shines -- I wire brushed it.

I had to cut a small nick in the bottom of the air cleaner can to allow for the vacuum nipple on the EGR valve. This cut is outside the air filter, and the only detrimental effect of it is that it allows a little warm air from the engine compartment to be pulled in.

A problem with moving the manifold back is that there is a brace between the manifold and alternator. I solved that by attaching a small piece of metal to the brace to move it's attachment to the alternator over by 3/4". The modified brace looks like this:


One other problem I had to solve with this setup is that one of the deck support springs would hit the cover if I tried to close the deck. I solved this by drilling a new hole in the spring link to move it up a bit, as in this picture:

You have to be careful working with these springs -- they're under tension. I wedged a piece of wood between the spring and deck while making the modification.

Because the air cleaner sits closer to the trunk wall after this mod, you probably should have poly dog bone bushings to keep the engine from moving too much. That's what I have, and there's no indication that my air cleaner has so much as tapped the trunk wall since doing the mod. And the spacer on the manifold seems to have no detrimental effect on performance. If anything, the engine seems to run a little better with it.

[This message has been edited by TopNotch (edited 07-20-2009).]

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SpideR W
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Report this Post07-20-2009 09:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SpideR WSend a Private Message to SpideR WDirect Link to This Post
Looks good man! It gives the duke a bit of class
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Tony Kania
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Report this Post07-20-2009 11:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tony KaniaSend a Private Message to Tony KaniaDirect Link to This Post
Very nice looking mod. It is nice to see folks giving the 4 banger some love.

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Twilight Fenrir
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Report this Post07-21-2009 12:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Twilight FenrirSend a Private Message to Twilight FenrirDirect Link to This Post
When I read the topic, I thought to myself... why would anyone want to do that?

But, I gotta admit... that's sexy. Nice work
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TopNotch
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Report this Post07-21-2009 09:41 AM Click Here to See the Profile for TopNotchClick Here to visit TopNotch's HomePageSend a Private Message to TopNotchDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Tony Kania:

It is nice to see folks giving the 4 banger some love.



Mine is like the Energizer Bunny -- it keeps going and going (close to 200k miles). I drove it hard last Saturday (with the mod) on a trial for Run For The Hills, and it didn't complain a bit. So yes, I give it some love.
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TopNotch
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Report this Post07-28-2009 04:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TopNotchClick Here to visit TopNotch's HomePageSend a Private Message to TopNotchDirect Link to This Post
Update: I forget to explain what I did with the PCV valve and breather tube. You can see the breather tube in the "after" picture above. This picture shows how I did the PCV valve:

I may do it differently when I re-do the air cleaner (but using the same holes, of course). The holes are 1", and were done with an ordinary hole saw. The grommets are from the Help peg board in a parts store, and are just ones that looked like they would fit. They happen to be for some kind of Ford application. The only GM application grommets they had were for a thin stamped metal valve cover, and didn't have a wide enough groove for the thick cast SD4 valve cover.
Another thing I forgot to mention: The holes for screwing on the access cover of the SD4 cover weren't threaded when I got it. I had to tap them with a M6x1.0 tap, so the supplied screws would fit.
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gtxbullet
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Report this Post12-20-2009 07:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gtxbulletSend a Private Message to gtxbulletDirect Link to This Post
where did you buy that valve cover from?
I've been looking all over for the last 8 months trying to find a seller.

PM me if you can.
Thanks!!
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LitebulbwithaFiero
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Report this Post12-20-2009 08:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LitebulbwithaFieroSend a Private Message to LitebulbwithaFieroDirect Link to This Post
Did a little searching.

GMPartsDirect- PN 10031327

[This message has been edited by LitebulbwithaFiero (edited 12-20-2009).]

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jetman
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Report this Post12-20-2009 08:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jetmanClick Here to visit jetman's HomePageSend a Private Message to jetmanDirect Link to This Post
That is so sweet, excellent write up too.
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TopNotch
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Report this Post12-20-2009 08:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TopNotchClick Here to visit TopNotch's HomePageSend a Private Message to TopNotchDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by gtxbullet:

where did you buy that valve cover from?


I got it from monsterpartsonline. They're a little cheaper than gmpartsdirect.
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TopNotch
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Report this Post12-20-2009 09:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TopNotchClick Here to visit TopNotch's HomePageSend a Private Message to TopNotchDirect Link to This Post

TopNotch

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Member since Feb 2009
Below is the latest incarnation of my SD4 valve cover installation. I made a new air cleaner housing. The snout is positioned a little differently to allow the PCV valve to stand upright (as I think it should), with tubing for it routed neatly over the snout. I did a better job building this one, and painted it silver.

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LitebulbwithaFiero
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Report this Post12-20-2009 09:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LitebulbwithaFieroSend a Private Message to LitebulbwithaFieroDirect Link to This Post
Looks very nice.

Best part is it looks as if it could have came factory.
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