Would someone please guide me through the removal and replacement of the wheel bearing assembly for an '87 GT. I just don't want any surprises. Thanks

Going from memory:

Remove wheel and support on jackstands
remove dust cover (large flat blade screwdriver, pry backwards, save for reuse)
remove cotter pin (needle nose pliers, discard and replace with new)
remove castle nut
remove keyed washer
outer bearing now exposed, should pretty much fall out, only held in by grease at this point
Pull rotor towards you. Inner whel bearing is held into rotor by rear wheel seal. If reusing rotors, pry out old seal and remove inner wheel bearing
Inspect inner and outer bearing races. Replace if neccessary.
Assembly is reverse of removal. Use new cotter pin.

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1984 Fiero SE

quote Originally posted by RWDPLZ: Going from memory: Remove wheel and support on jackstands remove dust cover (large flat blade screwdriver, pry backwards, save for reuse) remove cotter pin (needle nose pliers, discard and replace with new) remove castle nut remove keyed washer outer bearing now exposed, should pretty much fall out, only held in by grease at this point Pull rotor towards you. Inner whel bearing is held into rotor by rear wheel seal. If reusing rotors, pry out old seal and remove inner wheel bearing Inspect inner and outer bearing races. Replace if neccessary. Assembly is reverse of removal. Use new cotter pin.

Revision

1. Support car with jackstands then remove wheel.
1.5. Remove Caliper and hang with wire or something so its not hanging by the hose, dont disconnect the hose.

To remove the rear bearing seal, after you remove the outer bearing replace the spindle nut till its flush to the spindle, slide the rotor out against the nut a few times turning it 30 degrees or so each time. This works like a slide hammer and pulls it out easy.

Pack new bearings good with good grease. Place grease in hand and scrape it off with the bearing till it comes out the other side all the way around.

[This message has been edited by Mike Gonzalez (edited 07-29-2009).]

You MUST replace the races if you're going with a different brand bearing from what's already there. For example, if your old bearings are Timken, and the new ones are the Chinese kind some folks sell, the race angle is different, and you can't mix and match.

Pretty much the easiest job one can do to a vehicle. Always replace the races, knock them out from the opposite side of the rotor using a long punch, chisel, metal rod, etc. Seat the races and seal properly and fully grease the bearings. Tighten the spindle nut to 12 ft lbs while turning the rotor forward to seat the bearing, then back off to just being loose. Hand tighten the spindle nut then back it off just enough to put in the new cotter pin. Clean the old grease from inside the dust cap and tap it into place.
While at it inspect all the suspension components, check the shocks for oil leaks, lubricate the tie rod ends and and ball joints, inspect the rubber brake lines and think about replacing the brake pads while you have the calipers off. Inspect your work and be sure to tighten the lug nuts. Easy job but take your time and do it right.