Well got up the will to start sanding. I'm changing the color to GM Bright White mono with the usual black trim so stripped the car of panels. Also thought I would have to worry less about runs painting the panel off the car. Just need to finish sanding the roof and rear fenders. Then give everything a once over. I have hand wet sanded all the car. I've sanded most of it with lot of new 400 wet except where the clear needed to be removed more. Going to use Nisson paint.
Well planned doing all the painting on Saturday. Put on the primer and even after all the carefull sanding had a couple spider cracks show on the fonrt and rear bumpers. So paint day was moved to Sunday. Had to do church since I play in a bell choir but before I even made it there the phone rings. It's work! Sever down! The guy with the oncall phone didn't answer but he could not have have fixed it anyway. So run to work. Crud it not going to just be a reboot. Looks like a couple drive failed in a Raid array. Very bad news. Knew it was going to be a long day. No painting today. 20 hours later got to bed at 4 AM Monday morning. Anyway stayed home today and finished the piant. Didn't turn out to bad. But Nebraska has one thing and that is bugs. If you paint very late into the day they love to find clear coat. But sanding will take care of them.. So here are the currnet pics. And I'll never paint another one taking all the panel off. Takes way to much room to lay them out. Anyway the red car is now white!
Don't have time to post much need to get to bed so I can leave for CO. Anyway here are a few pics of the final results. Have a few touch ups to do but didn't come out to bad for a lat min. job.
[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 01-20-2011).]
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11:31 PM
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Aug 11th, 2009
sjmaye Member
Posts: 2468 From: Hendersonville, TN USA Registered: Jun 2003
Your right about less possibility of runs with panels laying flat...you can really pour it on.
Ive done this for many years though and cant even remember the last run I got. Im a full believer in painting a car as one unit with a few parts (ie/ spoilers, etc) as an exemption. Fieros only get the mouldings, tail lights, wing/rack and headlight covers taken off. Im doing one for a friend in the next week or two. Its going to be white also.
I figured since I'm changing color I will be able to get all the places better with them off. Plus I don't have to mask in the doors to get the rear sides. Sure is a lot of work though.
[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 08-29-2009).]
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10:18 PM
02greens10 Member
Posts: 813 From: Ashland, Ohio Registered: Feb 2008
I figured since I'm changing color I will be able to get all the places better with them off. Plus I don't have to mask in the goors to get the rear sides. Sure is a lot of work though.
I did the panel off thing and do not regret it at all. Those panels come off far too easily and it makes for a great paint job. Good Luck and look forward to you posting pics of your work.
I always found it strange a person could spend 100's of hours and tens of thousands of dollars under a hood, but there is nothing that matches the impact and excitement of a new paint job!
I figured since I'm changing color I will be able to get all the places better with them off. Plus I don't have to mask in the goors to get the rear sides. Sure is a lot of work though.
Yeah, no sense in taking shortcuts after you've spent so much time on the prep. Take a little extra time to do it right. Plus like you said you save a lot of time & money (& aggrevation) on the masking. If there is any metallic in that white (I don't believe there is IIRC), you should hang the vertical parts so that everything will match. Also, be sure to seal the parts with PPG epoxy primer before you paint. Better adhesion, less swelling,etc.etc. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
All that is nessasary for the triumph of evil, is that good men do nothing. ~ Edmond Burke
No it's straight GM Bright White. I'm using Nason paint for the first time. The paint place claims many that use Omni and try the Nason say they will not switch back. Will see how it comes out. I got 2 Qts of paint and wonder if I should have more since I'm painting the panels of the car and will have a little more loss from overage.
I also got a lesson in air chucks. I had never seen the higher volume chucks that are available with the larger opening. The one he showed me will take any of the different fittings long or short. That would be handy at times.
[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 12-27-2009).]
No it's straight GM Bright White. I'm using Nason paint for the first time. The paint place claims many that use Omni and try the Nason say they will not switch back. Will see how it comes out. I got 2 Qts of paint and wonder if I should have more since I'm painting the panels of the car and will have a little more loss from overage.
I also go a lesson in air chucks. I had never seen the higher volumn chucks that are available with the larger opening. The one he showed me will take any of the different fittings long or short. That would be handy at times.
What kind of gun are you using? If it's a siphon feed, you'll definately need more paint. You should plan to sand & buff, so allow extra paint for that too. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
That's not meth! That's Professor Cuyler's liquid miracle wake up claificational get thin & steal sterio equipment stay up for four days & lose your teeth juice tonic!
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12:51 PM
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rogergarrison Member
Posts: 49601 From: A Western Caribbean Island/ Columbus, Ohio Registered: Apr 99
** < still thinks Driver must have stock or sell PPG Epoxy primer....lol. I wont even let someone bring me a car they used it on in the building. Everytime I did, I regretted it and lost my ass. Either I primer it...with my primer...or get it the hell out of my door. I bet he even thinks it will cure cancer.
** < still thinks Driver must have stock or sell PPG Epoxy primer....lol. I wont even let someone bring me a car they used it on in the building. Everytime I did, I regretted it and lost my ass. Either I primer it...with my primer...or get it the hell out of my door. I bet he even thinks it will cure cancer.
Gee, I suppose I should recomend something of lesser quality, just to satisfy you.... This coming from someone that still uses LAQUER primer for pete's sake. I wish you could just leave it alone, Roger. The problems you've had were probably due to bad prep & you know it. Truth is, I've used just about every kind of paint & primer ever made. I've found that NOTHING compares to PPG epoxy primer for adhesion, sealing, hiding, holdout, & every other thing a primer is supposed to do. Hell folks even use it instead of semi-flat paint on their hotrods, it holds up so well to the weather (unlike ANY other primer). Dodgerunner, I suggest you go with PPG. I've used other epoxies & they don't compare. The extra cost is worth it: I use it on my cars, & I can promise you I don't make as much money as 99.99999% of the folks here. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
The day after tomorrow is the third day of the rest of your life.
[This message has been edited by Tha Driver (edited 08-13-2009).]
Yeah, as soon as I saw Roger and Driver in the same thread that dealt with paint, I knew it was on
Before I get blasted, let me say my step-dad used to paint cars. He, like every other painter, had his preferences to type, brand and equipment to be used when it came to painting. Y'all just make it more fun to read at times...
Yeah roger just can't leave it alone when I recomend PPG epoxy. Actually I wish I DID hold stock in PPG... Holdout refers to the primer's ability to eliminate sand scratch swelling. With any non-catalyzed primer, the reducers in the paint soak into the primer & soften it. Any scratches it's filling will then swell up (or shrink as the case may be). It can happen with catalized primer to some extent, depending on the type of primer & type of reducer in the paint, but the PPG epoxy is about the best when it comes to sealing the panels & not soaking up reducers in the paint. Laquer primer is the worst. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
Which do you most can't the least? What I most can't the least, would be do not a bad job but always a good.
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02:38 AM
Toms88 Member
Posts: 149 From: Terre Haute, IN, USA Registered: Feb 2006
Dodgerunner, When I painted my 85gt last year/this Spring I made a couple of errors. One is that I should have sanded a tiny radius into the top inside upper corner on the front bumper cover. The factory edge is so sharp there is no good way to build paint on it, or maybe I just don't know how. So even though I stayed away from this edge when color sanding and buffing I went through the red and got gray primer. So my theory is to knock down that edge.
The second was not putting enough paint on the upper edge of the door panels. Same issue as in the first paragraph.
Yeah roger just can't leave it alone when I recomend PPG epoxy. Actually I wish I DID hold stock in PPG... Holdout refers to the primer's ability to eliminate sand scratch swelling. With any non-catalyzed primer, the reducers in the paint soak into the primer & soften it. Any scratches it's filling will then swell up (or shrink as the case may be). It can happen with catalized primer to some extent, depending on the type of primer & type of reducer in the paint, but the PPG epoxy is about the best when it comes to sealing the panels & not soaking up reducers in the paint. Laquer primer is the worst. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
Yeah, that is what the paint sniffer at Finishmaster's told me and thus recommended 2K primer, which I did use. I still cannot believe how well that stuff wet sanded. TY sparx22
[This message has been edited by sparx22 (edited 08-13-2009).]
Yeah roger just can't leave it alone when I recomend PPG epoxy. Actually I wish I DID hold stock in PPG... Holdout refers to the primer's ability to eliminate sand scratch swelling. With any non-catalyzed primer, the reducers in the paint soak into the primer & soften it. Any scratches it's filling will then swell up (or shrink as the case may be). It can happen with catalized primer to some extent, depending on the type of primer & type of reducer in the paint, but the PPG epoxy is about the best when it comes to sealing the panels & not soaking up reducers in the paint. Laquer primer is the worst. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
.
Which number ppg primer was that. The old number or the newer L one.
[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 08-13-2009).]
Which number ppg primer was that. The old number or the newer L one.
DP 50 LF. They keep changing it 'cause of government regulations (so I'm told). They no longer make DP 50. Use the DP 401 LF catalyst, since you're painting flexible parts (the bumper covers). You'll have to give it an induction period after mixing (I think it's 20 minites) before shooting. You can shoot paint over it 30 minites later (at 70 degrees F. IIRC), or do like I do on high-end cars & let it dry for several days & wet sand it with 400. HTH, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
A government big enough to give you everything you want, is big enough to take away everything you have. - Thomas Jefferson.
Yeah, that is what the paint sniffer at Finishmaster's told me and thus recommended 2K primer, which I did use. I still cannot believe how well that stuff wet sanded. TY sparx22
The 2K & other high-build primers are great if you have major imperfections or wavy panels you need to block out (but not the waves on RRIM - it's too flexible). I use it after a coat of epoxy, & once I get the panel flat I then seal it with epoxy before painting. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
America - made in China!
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12:09 AM
sjmaye Member
Posts: 2468 From: Hendersonville, TN USA Registered: Jun 2003
Funny, but I rarely ever have a 'holdout' problem. Must be because I let the primer dry before I paint over it. Ive tried your catylized primer. First you cant leave it in a gun for more than an hour or you throw the gun away. I use primer all day long blocking and reprimering panels to get them perfect. I might reprime and sand a panel 10 times in a day. Another thing is if its catylized it hardens on everything in the building. I dont have time to move a car in and out of a booth 10 times a day just to primer it. Another shop by me quit using hardened primer also because of problems they were having...getting on other customer cars (sanding and buffing them back out) and scratch/ bodywork swelling...same as I had. Everyones entitled to use whatever they see fit. Laquer Primer/Surfacer has worked excellent for me for 40 years...see no reason to change. I did Ferrari, Mercedes, Porsche, Jag, BMW and most top end cars with never a single come back. One of the guys in my Corvette club wrecked his 73 454 car last year. He had a Corvette shop here in Ohio repair and repaint it. They use 2K primer. Its covered with bodywork scratches and splits. In dark red it looks like crap....prob get away with it on white. I dont talk about what ' manufacturers claims ' are on products. I look at the results in real life. Last year I had to strip and repaint a C4 that was primered in 2K and it all bumbled up and split over the body work after I painted it the first time. With the redo, it still looks great.
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Owner / Operator Custom Paint and Body... specializing in Corvette & Higher End Autos for 40+ years Ferrari, Mercedes and Porsche Approved ____________________________________________
Hey it looks great, just don't f^ck it up like I did scratching my clip near the gas cap installing a pop rivet! Now color sanding out the bugs are you? Thats all I did, with 1000 and 1500, then medium grit compound and swirl removal buffing.
Roger You are still using red primer right? sparx22
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11:57 AM
PFF
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dsnover Member
Posts: 1668 From: Cherryville, PA USA Registered: Apr 2006
Just to add a bit more fuel to this discussion, I've really had nice results using Martin Senour TEC/Base paint system. Not cheap stuff, but I'm very satisfied with the results and durability. And I'm really liking the Harbor Freight HVLP gun: http://www.harborfreight.co...taf?itemnumber=66222 Although I would like different size nozzles for it...(has a 1.4mm)
Got a few pics off the one camera. Will have a few show pics tomorrow.
The Gunisson car show was next to the airport. A v22 Ospray was practicing hovers. I had never seen one fly before. He kept hovering up and down the runway. Cool!
The new paint at Black Canyon of the Gunisson.
My son, Above the tree line top of Trail Ridge Road Estes Park. You can see the road we hit next just in front of the headlight. Parking lot shot. Ears where getting cold.
The car loved the mountains. Put in some premium gas before we started up so it would not knock. I have never driven the mountains where I could accel going up and pass everyone. Very fun! Total trip 1649 miles. averaged 31.52 mpg. Would get 37-38 up in the mountains and 30+ on the flat land. Think the car like to go 50-60 better than 65+ for mileage... Going down one pass there was a vet behind me. Pushed it a little and he didn't keep up, or didn't want to. But he was up to that point....
[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 08-25-2009).]
Body tip #2. As you know the bumpers on the GT's like to sag along the top line where they fasten along the hood. This is prevented by the egg crate inside the bumper supporting the nose. The crate is usually held on with christmas tree fasteners or the like. They tend to be loose or broken so the crate lays inside and does not hold up the nose. I always replace the fasteners with the large plastic screws that are used to hold toilet seats on. You can get the bolts and nuts at hardware stores. (about $1 for each part) That way you can get the crate to stay high and really tight for years.
The crate is usually held on with christmas tree fasteners or the like. They tend to be loose or broken so the crate lays inside and does not hold up the nose. I always replace the fasteners with the large plastic screws that are used to hold toilet seats on. You can get the bolts and nuts at hardware stores. (about $1 for each part)
Rory, what's the advantage of using those large plastic screws over just a regular nut and bolt?
It's not like they need to be corrosion resistant for taking on and off easily multiple times (unless you're constantly banging up the front of the Fiero).
