What you people didn't see was the little square cut out in the baffle. It is the size of a screwdriver tip and lets water bypass the whole assembly right into the stock air canister. Look at this picture and imagine the opposite half having the same cutout.
the inclination of the baffle suggest that it is intended to reduce (retune) sound; if it were intended to hold watter the inclination would be backwards. here an example in a flowmaster. just thinking loud!!!! maybe im wrong
[This message has been edited by Chelo Fiero (edited 09-17-2009).]
I just did this mod yesterday. Meant to do it for awhile, and seeing all the posting pushed me to get it done. I have always been happy with Rodney products. Mod was pretty easy, although took a little longer due to hardware issues, rusted bolt here, spent fastener there. Instructions should be re-written and photos, like the one on the 1st page of this discussion added (sorry Rodney). As far as result, sounds great. Performance, jury out. Personally I like the cleaner designer. On performance, well I have a K&N in my Firebird, and an upgraded MAF, and recall a lot of writing on how the design creates better air flow. I would think the same would apply here, but agree it would be minor. If I had more time to spend on this, I would really thing about dropping a K&N cone in the side section near the intake. It would solve the hot air issue of being in the bay. Than again, what would I really gain. I vote thumbs up on Rodney, and think the True CAI claim is a fair description.
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09:42 AM
Bruce Member
Posts: 2189 From: Ventura, California, USA Registered: May 99
Faster air is no bonus, you need more volume and slower air to equal a lower pressure drop. if the air is rushing to get someplace it's because there is a pressure drop. In engines that is bad unless you are forcing the air in by using a turbo or Supercharger.
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11:53 PM
Nov 22nd, 2009
88GT.FASTBACK Member
Posts: 457 From: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada Registered: Dec 2007
Whats wrong with taking the outside air grill cover off and drilling a hole through the baffle. Should take about 2 minutes….
The problem is the air tube still causes turbulance when hanging off to the side, and can be replaced by a 3" air tube, allowing better flow. There is also the cross at the bottom of the air can to be improved upon, using either: - Rodney's base or - An air can from an 80's gm car which requires . - modifying the base of the new air can I also built a new lower elbow, however the stock one could be used . - as well as relocating the fuel vapor can, or a different intake between the air can and the tb.
For the sound the base restriction being removed mada a big difference. I had the cold air tube at first for a year, then did the other air box, and it was a louder change than the cold air tube. The cross in the bottom was a large restriction, 3* 1/4+" slits and the centre was a 1"or larger restriction, mostly the turbulance from the blockage more than anything else.
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07:07 PM
Nov 23rd, 2009
88GT.FASTBACK Member
Posts: 457 From: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada Registered: Dec 2007
I went ahead and drilled a 2 3/4" hole through the baffle. There is definitely a difference in sound, Kind of like sucking on a slurpy. The problem is my exhaust system is so loud you can not hear the air suction unless you put your ear by the air intake. This cost me nothing, took no time at all, and can be restored with a blank to cover the hole.
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09:11 PM
Jan 14th, 2010
masospaghetti Member
Posts: 2477 From: Charlotte, NC USA Registered: Dec 2009
I think the "water separator" works by forcing water-laden air around that 180 degree bend, "flinging" any entrained water to the outside of the device. Where it would go at that point, I don't know - but I know air conditioning packs on commercial airplanes use a similiar principle to dry incoming air, although airplanes actually use a spiral-shaped enclosure to separate the air and water.
Not saying it works, but I find it more than coincidential that the shape of this thing forces the air to take a big turn and GM also happens to call the thing a "water separator". Just my 2 cents.
EDIT: Actually, I bet that this thing is designed to fling entrained water to the outside of the bend and have it drip down to the bottom. The engine will not suck up liquid (non-aerated) water if there's space for air to pass through, so water will accumulate in this device until it runs out through that little notch at the bottom and out through the intake.
[This message has been edited by masospaghetti (edited 01-14-2010).]
