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Hood ajar light switch repair by 30+mpg
Started on: 12-11-2009 12:42 PM
Replies: 6
Last post by: ALJR on 01-16-2010 02:54 PM
30+mpg
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Report this Post12-11-2009 12:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 30+mpgSend a Private Message to 30+mpgDirect Link to This Post
The switch is super easy to remove. The plunger & wire connections rotate separately from the switch body.

Use an 11mm wrench to turn the nut while holding the plastic top to keep it from turning.



The top of the switch acts as a plunger and causes the contact to open.



Corrosion can build up at the contact points.

Grab the plastic button top and rotate back and forth to clean the contacts.

[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 12-11-2009).]

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theogre
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Report this Post12-11-2009 03:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
That's fine... If you can clean them...

Usually they are dead or out of adjustment. Yes... The switch needs Adjustment. It's a one shot item. When new, first time you shut the door/lid squashes the nut on the switch.

If jam switch uses a weather guard then keep it. Even if look like a washer now, you have to keep it until you get a new switch. With out washer/guard, the switch can be too short to made the connect with the door/lid.

New switches cost $3-4 (ACDelco runs $9-10)

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


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30+mpg
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Report this Post12-11-2009 05:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 30+mpgSend a Private Message to 30+mpgDirect Link to This Post
Actually the plastic top goes down into the recess on top of the nut. The hood doesn't touch the nut.

Stubborn corrosion can be removed by running some 320 grin sandpaper over the inside of the contact spades.

Or hold the switch open and apply a little toothpaste between the spades and the center contact.

Close the switch, rotate the center contact back and forth, open, rinse and dry.
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theogre
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Report this Post12-12-2009 01:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
Correct... Nut doesn't contact door/lid/hood.
Door or whatever drives the switch thru the nut when it's installed.



Switch is from door and it uses a Weather Guard so Nut is all the way down the switch body.

And your images is a used switch too but not as must as above.


Weather Guard must be save... Or use washer instead... Or jam switch is replace with new switch and throw out the guard.


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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


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[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 12-12-2009).]

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ALJR
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Report this Post01-16-2010 02:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ALJRSend a Private Message to ALJRDirect Link to This Post
Where is the hood switch located? I looked around under the hood and can't seem to locate it... I have an "ajar" light lit on my dash and this is the only switch I haven't trouble-shooted yet...
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theogre
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Report this Post01-16-2010 02:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
under hood next to latch on left.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)

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ALJR
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Report this Post01-16-2010 02:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ALJRSend a Private Message to ALJRDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:

under hood next to latch on left.



Either I am blind, an idiot or my Fiero does not have one. Because I can not see it... Do the 88gt's not have one??

This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

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