Hey guys, I want to do some simple performance upgrades to my 87' Fiero GT, however I don't have much to spend because I am only 16 and I am already putting money into my daily driver and don't have to much to spend for my Fiero to upgrade performance. I was also wondering about horsepower ratings, I have heard the stock rating is 140 but I want to be sure, I was also wondering about the throttle body flow ratings and the MAF ability. I am not sure if anyone will be able to help me with those but I am sure there is someone out there who knows. I am in the process of putting an Accel super coil on with 7.5mm wires along with ACDelco plugs. Any suggestions will be appreciated and welcomed. My car is 100% stock and I just want to be able to beat all the other kids with VW's and Honda's around town. I don't beat my cars but I do appreciate being able to take a ricer right off the line. Its a great feeling.

Thanks,
Jeff

haha im in the same boat man. I have an 86 SE and my dad paid for most of it but i got to pay him back. i put a 3.1 stroker kit in the stock motor and painted it and stuff. ya the stock hp rating is 140. I heard that the air flow for this car isnt really that good so they have big bore throttle bodys and stuff for them. also to gain 10 hp or so is to port the exhaust manifolds which is an easy job and the y pipe which is a little more involved in welding and cutting. now im gonna be looking at around 170hp with my upgrade that i did. good luck.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/098395.html

Don't bother... Save your money for a swap or put it into suspension upgrades.

A stock GT won't be a good drag car. If you want to piss them off, go for the curvy roads and interstate off ramps.

Its the corners that let the Fiero truly shine

The stock rating is 135 HP.
Don't think the Fiero is any faster than a VW, Honda, or any grocery getter.
Fieros don't have a MAF.

If you want to know THE bottleneck, it's the stock exhaust manifolds. You can port the stock exhaust manifolds. This is documented in the forum - you can search for it...

You won't gain anything from aftermarket ignition parts, unless the stock parts are in poor condition.

Otherwise, cheap (free) weight reduction can start with A/C related components, spare tire, jack... how radical are you willing you go?

If you don't beat on your car (that is, 5000 RPM clutch drops) you're going to find it tough to take "ricers" off the line. Welcome to the world of high-traction low-powered cars. Otherwise, a modern 1.6L DOHC might teach you a lesson...

You bought the wrong car if you bought it to beat other kids and ricers.
That's not what a Fiero is for.

It is a great handling mid-engined car.

I hope you're not racing kids on the street. I really don't want to see Fieros die from a 16 year old street racing kid. Please take care of your Fiero. It's a pretty rare and valued (among enthusiasts) car, and not a generic cheap car.

I also suggest enrolling in Skip Barber, or similar racing schools. You'll learn more about your Fiero, avoiding accidents, and becoming a faster driver, than any performance mods.

Remember, driving a slow car fast is more fun than driving a fast car slow..

Happy modding.

(btw.: I suggest first putting money into restoring the car. example: Ball joints, tie rods, bushings, front exhaust manifold (usually cracks), interior restoration, etc.)

I'll keep an eye on this thread, I too am 16, and not satisfied with the performance... especially 4th gear.

I suggest suspension, brakes and other handling mods. Why? They increase the safety of your vehicle (although ultimately it's up to the driver to keep things safe and not exceed the limits of the vehicle). They also transfer quite well to engine swaps or even 2.8 upgrades.

You bought the wrong car for drag racing. As previously stated, this car is meant to be used in the twisties. If I want to bruise a ricer's ass at the stoplights, my supercharged boat Regal GS takes care of that.

BTW, I don't want to come off as condescending, but you should be worried more about becoming a more experienced driver before you have any illusions about being Mr. Billy Badass racer. Keep it safe out there.

nothing beats NO2 for "bang for the buck" performance enhancement
but - this is also a path to blown motor for most

anyways - porting the exhaust manifolds & y-pipe is the #1 FREE (except the work) performance item.
replacing the stock 1.5 stamped rockers with 1.6 roller tips
ye 'ol underdrive pulley
MSD coil (or the likes) - MSD boxes or the likes wont do squat tho, except maybe a rev limiter

the single biggest hinderance - and also one of the more costly item to replace: The Intake Manifold
particularly - the upper plenum. specificly - the neck - where is crunchs down to about 2 Square Inches cross sectional area (equiv of roughly a 40-45mm Throttle body)

RARELY does a 2.8/3.1/3.4 get past 160 HPs using the stock intake manifold
there are 200-230 HP builds using either Carburators or TrueLeo intake

there are also turbos - but - these aint cheap - and - a waste of $$$ on a worn motor.

+1 for porting the manifolds!

Its the ONLY afordable mod you can do the the 2.8 that you can actually feel the performance gain... There are a tun of little things that will all add up to a decent perfarmance increase; but now your getting inside the block/heads...

I would also stay away from nitros, not a good thing for a 20+ yro motor...

If you want a decent performance gain on a budget, do the below (order of most performance):
-make sure what is supposed to work, actually works
-port exhaust manifolds
-port cylinder heads
-gasket match all 3 intake plenums
-port y-pipe

All the above should get you about 10-15hp

If you want to get inside the block; now your looking at some money & not worth it unless you want a stock-looking Fiero:
-3.1 stroker
-cam, lifters & springs

Good for another 10-15hp and now your reaching the limits of your stock intakes airflow capabilities...

Don't forget the upper intake plenum being restrictive. Might as well upgrade that (bolt on) before trying to remove cylinder heads to port them.

quote Originally posted by Austrian Import: You bought the wrong car if you bought it to beat other kids and ricers. That's not what a Fiero is for. It is a great handling mid-engined car... (btw.: I suggest first putting money into restoring the car. example: Ball joints, tie rods, bushings, front exhaust manifold (usually cracks), interior restoration, etc.)

Agreed. He's already stated he doesn't have a lot of money. So depending on his priorities (going fast??) chances are it will go for a NOS kit before those things.

------------------

World of Wheels Winners
My 3.4L S/C 87 GT
& Super Duty 4 Indy #163

Someone here, (awhile ago) posted that they cut apart & rewelded the upper intake making the neck alot larger. It was Posted WITH Pictures as I remember. Does anyone remember that one ? re post it on this link ?

You don't really want to start into modding if you are short of money. As stated above your porting of exhaust manifold and Y pipe is the place to start. You want to replace or remove your CAT. IF you have the tools, the next step is to port match your heads. You don't to hog out too much. When I ported mine, I went just a little large and now the engine revs clean at full power right past 6000 rpm, but the low end suffers a bit. That said, the porting should be done but not overdone and this thread will help

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...060811-2-060677.html

Don't get big tires. That reduces your final gear ratio. Get low profile tires. I use 195/55/15's. They help. Also, you'll have new rubber, always a good idea.

The stock 4 speed Fiero GT is about a 15.5 sec. car if it is tuned right and in good shape.

Much more than what I've mentioned and you'll be into more money.

Good luck with it

Arn

quote Originally posted by FieroGTFan: Hey guys, I want to do some simple performance upgrades to my 87' Fiero GT, however I don't have much to spend because I am only 16 and I am already putting money into my daily driver and don't have to much to spend for my Fiero to upgrade performance. I was also wondering about horsepower ratings, I have heard the stock rating is 140 but I want to be sure, I was also wondering about the throttle body flow ratings and the MAF ability. I am not sure if anyone will be able to help me with those but I am sure there is someone out there who knows. I am in the process of putting an Accel super coil on with 7.5mm wires along with ACDelco plugs. Any suggestions will be appreciated and welcomed. My car is 100% stock and I just want to be able to beat all the other kids with VW's and Honda's around town. I don't beat my cars but I do appreciate being able to take a ricer right off the line. Its a great feeling. Thanks, Jeff

We've all been here before. For me, it was 14 years ago... and it was on the Fiero List (e-mail list).

Basically, the Fiero was quick for a car during the mid 80s and the early to mid 90s. The Fiero by today's standards though is pretty slow compared to even the most sedate of commuter cars. It's not horribly slow, but a good acceleration time for a V6 stick shift Fiero is low to mid 15s in the quarter. An automatic V6 GT would probably run low 16s.

There are a few things you can do with very little money and not a lot of experience:

1 - Ignition coil helps maintain spark in the upper rpms (you will feel less of a "drop" in the upper rpms). $50
2 - Remove the water seperator in the intake. Makes a negligible difference, but it does help. FREE
3 - K&N air filter will improve air flow slightly, but not a huge difference. $45
4 - Synthetic oil will help with engine friction and give you a bit more power and fuel economy. Use 5W-30 or 10W-30 Synthetic. $40
5 - Maintaining good tire pressure also reduces rolling resistance and improves acceleration (as well as fuel economy and wet adhesion)

All of these can be done with simple hand tools.

Getting a little bit more difficult here:
1 - Underdrive pulleys. Helps off-the line performance. $80
2 - Replace the cat converter with a high-flow unit from the Fiero Store $120 (makes a significant difference ~5 peak hp)
3 - Have the exhaust manifolds "hogged out". Anywhere from a 5 to 8hp increase. FREE
4 - 1.6:1 Crane Cams Roller Rockers, $119 (requires you to pull the valve covers and set the valve lash. Expect about an 8-10hp gain from these).
5 - Intake port matching / port / polish. Port-matching the intake manifold to the runners and then to the plenum helps a LOT in the upper rpms. FREE
6 - Ported throttle body with a port-match to the intake plenum. Helps in the upper rpms. FREE
There are some other things you can do too.... a decent aftermarket exhaust system (do this after you've done everything else), an improved Y-pipe, a higher stall torque converter will REALLY help off the line (only if you have an automatic obviously).

------------------
Todd,
2008 Jeep Patriot Limited 4x2
2002 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr 4x2
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter

Thanks guys, I appreciate all of your help. I do not street race, I think it is stupid and I know to many people who have lost their lives doing it... I race at the track, however alot of people at my school try to force me to race them on the streets, but I always tell them I will race them anytime, as long as its at the track. I respect my Fiero for what it is, I have wanted one since I went to a car show on my 13 birthday, and saw one for the first time. I realize it is a highly valued car. I promise you all I will respect this car for what it is. Thanks for all your help. Honestly, I think I have decided to get my suspension back in good shape and get the car painted before focusing on anything else.

-Jeff

Definitely port the exhaust logs and the y pipe. Be sure to gasket match the flange to a new exhaust gasket,

You want it to look something like this"


Also the Y pipe but that requires cutting the pipe and then welding it back together - if you have a welder and skills, it's cheap. Aftermarket ignition parts will do nothing for you unless your stock parts are shot. Good quality AC Delco parts will get you the same performance as anything else on the Fiero. Check out the inside of the Dizzy. Many are full of rust and debris. Make sure there are 0 vacuum leaks.

Intake problem is the top plenum then work your way down to the middle and the bottom. No matter how much porting you do to the bottom and mid, the top will still be an issue. Best thing is to get the exhaust opened up - even a high flow cat helps and make sure it is tuned correctly, all sensors are working, etc. Remember that the Fule is controlled by the ECM If your sensors are old, it will run OK but not perfect. Check for codes even if the SES light is not on. Make sure the timing is correct. Do not expect a firebreathing animal as they simply are not. They have fair power but they were designed for economy and handling. A stock higher mileage 2.8 that has not been well cared for will not take too much "hot rodding" before issues will start to arise. Good quality Oil and Oil filter is another place to look for - well maybe not performance but for reliability. Good luck!

Pat

I agree, save your money and wait for a swap........ You dont live to far from me me and BOH are lookin for a dude to replace brian in our little posse.

quote Originally posted by FieroGTFan: Thanks guys, I appreciate all of your help. I do not street race, I think it is stupid and I know to many people who have lost their lives doing it... I race at the track, however alot of people at my school try to force me to race them on the streets, but I always tell them I will race them anytime, as long as its at the track. I respect my Fiero for what it is, I have wanted one since I went to a car show on my 13 birthday, and saw one for the first time. I realize it is a highly valued car. I promise you all I will respect this car for what it is. Thanks for all your help. Honestly, I think I have decided to get my suspension back in good shape and get the car painted before focusing on anything else. -Jeff

That's a pretty mature attitude to have. I won't argue with it at all. However, I would still encourage you to go through your car and do all of the maintenance. If it's an automatic, have the fluid flushed and the filter changed. Switch to synthetic oil, replace your spark plugs, change your belts if they're needed, fix any oil leaks if you see them, replace your air filter, make sure all your sensors are good. Regardless of whether your looking for more power or not... having the car in a really good state of tune will make the car more enjoyable to drive whether that's powering through a turn, or just casually driving your girfriend to Sonic.

Mmm... Sonic...

quote Originally posted by katatak: Definitely port the exhaust logs and the y pipe. Be sure to gasket match the flange to a new exhaust gasket, You want it to look something like this"

Wow, you did a REALLY good job with that porting work. I bought a ported set MANY years ago when I didn't have the proper tools and was far less comfortable working on cars and experimenting. I was told that anything past what I have (now) would weaken the manifold. Obviously, In the past 8-9 years (or 10?) I've learned to weld, rebuild engines, and restored a couple of cars so maybe when I take my engine out this Spring I'll give them a second look. Did you have any issues with grinding out the inside of the exhaust flange? Did you re-weld the inside of the flange or support it with additional metal on the outside?
Thanks,

------------------
Todd,
2008 Jeep Patriot Limited 4x2
2002 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr 4x2
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter

quote Originally posted by katatak: ....... Aftermarket ignition parts will do nothing for you unless your stock parts are shot. .....

the stock ignition coil begins to lose power at 3000 RPM, and can barely create spark by 5000 RPM
obviously doesnt matter all that much, being the stock intake chokes & the valves float at 4500

I agree ignition boxes dont help, but replacing the stock coil with a better coil DOES help at 3000+ RPMs

the spark plug gap is a clue to this as well
the DIS 4-cyl & V6 Fiero use the same plug. the V6 gapped at 0.045", the DIS 4 cyl at 0.060"
why the difference? because the V6 coil is to weak.
with a decent coil, you can in fact open the gap to 0.060" with no problems.

but - overall - this really isnt a huge difference anyways - as mentioned - the only noticable thing in this whole thread is the ported exhaust manifolds

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: the stock ignition coil begins to lose power at 3000 RPM, and can barely create spark by 5000 RPM obviously doesnt matter all that much, being the stock intake chokes & the valves float at 4500 I agree ignition boxes dont help, but replacing the stock coil with a better coil DOES help at 3000+ RPMs the spark plug gap is a clue to this as well the DIS 4-cyl & V6 Fiero use the same plug. the V6 gapped at 0.045", the DIS 4 cyl at 0.060" why the difference? because the V6 coil is to weak. with a decent coil, you can in fact open the gap to 0.060" with no problems. but - overall - this really isnt a huge difference anyways - as mentioned - the only noticable thing in this whole thread is the ported exhaust manifolds

I just wanted to mention though that porting the intake "runners" (if you can call them that) makes an appreciable difference in intake flow. Appreciable is subjective since I really have no idea. But everything else being the same, I was sure that I noticed a substantial difference after putting it all back together.

EDIT: sorry... "port-matching". Not porting...

Where the intake meets the "runners", there is at least a 1/8th inch difference between each side for a combined restriction of up to 3/8ths of an inch restriction between some of the ports when bolted together. I could tell this based off of the "staining" that the EGR system causes on the exposed metal of the aluminum intake pieces.

I simply ground them down.

When I take everything apart this Spring... I'll probably bolt them together and figure some way to sand it all smooth rather than just grind down the offending area...


------------------
Todd,
2008 Jeep Patriot Limited 4x2
2002 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr 4x2
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter

[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 01-06-2010).]

quote Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: Wow, you did a REALLY good job with that porting work. I bought a ported set MANY years ago when I didn't have the proper tools and was far less comfortable working on cars and experimenting. I was told that anything past what I have (now) would weaken the manifold. Obviously, In the past 8-9 years (or 10?) I've learned to weld, rebuild engines, and restored a couple of cars so maybe when I take my engine out this Spring I'll give them a second look. Did you have any issues with grinding out the inside of the exhaust flange? Did you re-weld the inside of the flange or support it with additional metal on the outside? Thanks,

Hey Todd,

I've done about 10 sets this way with no issues so far. I bolt the manifold to an old head I have and weld the outside of the flange to the pipe. The pipe is a mild stainless and the flange is steel but I use regular old carbon mig wire in my welder with shield gas. Sometimes I will get the "gas" bubbling on the inside of the stainless pipe but those come right out when I go to porting the inside. After I weld, I let them sit bolted to cool. Once cool, I go to porting.

I use a dremel with the flexible cable whip and a carbide cutter to take out most of the extra material inside the manifold then switch to a die grinder with a medium 1" diamater stone to smooth it out. Then I use a "cone" stone in my bench top drill press to bevel - gasket match - the flange. Final step is a medium grit "flapper" wheel on the dremel to polish it up.

On a few sets, I used a "1-1/8" hole saw in my drill press to take out the extra material inside then the stone to finish. It works and is faster but I prefer to use the carbide cutter and the dremel. If you use the crbide cutter, where heavy rubber gloves and long sleeves as the nasty little shards of stainless steel will bury them selves in any exposed skin.

quote Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: I just wanted to mention though that porting the intake "runners" (if you can call them that) makes an appreciable difference in intake flow. Appreciable is subjective since I really have no idea. But everything else being the same, I was sure that I noticed a substantial difference after putting it all back together. EDIT: sorry... "port-matching". Not porting... Where the intake meets the "runners", there is at least a 1/8th inch difference between each side for a combined restriction of up to 3/8ths of an inch restriction between some of the ports when bolted together. I could tell this based off of the "staining" that the EGR system causes on the exposed metal of the aluminum intake pieces. I simply ground them down. When I take everything apart this Spring... I'll probably bolt them together and figure some way to sand it all smooth rather than just grind down the offending area...

I would agree that "Port Matching" is a good idea and helps what air you can get in there flow better. I have not done it on a V6 but I have a few V8's where it makes a difference.

Well, no matter what I do I have to get my wires replaced. I took the car out tonight for a quick spin in the dark, and I decided to stop and check the engine while the car was running. I was plesantly surprised to see some arching going on from the wires. Not good. So I was looking into wires and I was wondering about the Sti wires on the FieroStore. Has anyone used them, and are they any good? Any suggestions on a good set of wires for a V6?

-Jeff

quote Originally posted by FieroGTFan: Well, no matter what I do I have to get my wires replaced. I took the car out tonight for a quick spin in the dark, and I decided to stop and check the engine while the car was running. I was plesantly surprised to see some arching going on from the wires. Not good. So I was looking into wires and I was wondering about the Sti wires on the FieroStore. Has anyone used them, and are they any good? Any suggestions on a good set of wires for a V6? -Jeff

Any new set of wires will work, even the cheapo auto parts store brands... Myself, I used MSD 8.8 wires; there red and of very high quality. But your paying for quality (I think they were $90 or $100)...

quote Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: I just wanted to mention though that porting the intake "runners" (if you can call them that) makes an appreciable difference in intake flow. Appreciable is subjective since I really have no idea. But everything else being the same, I was sure that I noticed a substantial difference after putting it all back together. EDIT: sorry... "port-matching". Not porting... Where the intake meets the "runners", there is at least a 1/8th inch difference between each side for a combined restriction of up to 3/8ths of an inch restriction between some of the ports when bolted together. I could tell this based off of the "staining" that the EGR system causes on the exposed metal of the aluminum intake pieces. I simply ground them down. When I take everything apart this Spring... I'll probably bolt them together and figure some way to sand it all smooth rather than just grind down the offending area...

yup - I used that same "staining" as a guide when I port matched my plenums & intake
tho, when I did mine, it was during a rebuild - so - there was no way for me to tell what affect it had, since it went onto a fresh build.
but, yes - that one area where the lower plenum mates with the intake manifold - there is MUCH work needed there to smooth flow.
and, where the intake manifold mates to the heads - another wicked restriction there - almost 1/8 of the port is obstructed

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: yup - I used that same "staining" as a guide when I port matched my plenums & intake tho, when I did mine, it was during a rebuild - so - there was no way for me to tell what affect it had, since it went onto a fresh build. but, yes - that one area where the lower plenum mates with the intake manifold - there is MUCH work needed there to smooth flow. and, where the intake manifold mates to the heads - another wicked restriction there - almost 1/8 of the port is obstructed

You know... I get "excited" when I spend time in the "Technical" section, and only get angry when I go to the "O/T"... why do I even spend my time in the O/T anymore???

------------------
Todd,
2008 Jeep Patriot Limited 4x2
2002 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr 4x2
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter

quote Originally posted by pontiackid86: I agree, save your money and wait for a swap........ You dont live to far from me me and BOH are lookin for a dude to replace brian in our little posse.

How come you have all the people around our age near you, its not fair

AS they have said , save your money and do a swap. Personally I would find a low milage 3500 ,swap the cam , add some trueleo headers have to change the flange, change the TB, change the fuel rail, add a 5 speed or 4sp auto and your set. And the hole shoot issue, only been one ricer get me off the line, and Evo turbo all wheel drive. But that's another story. Save your money you'll get there.

------------------

85 GT 3.4
14.9 @ 90 1.9 60' Old TH125/3.06
Unknown New 4T60/3.42

quote Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: You know... I get "excited" when I spend time in the "Technical" section, and only get angry when I go to the "O/T"... why do I even spend my time in the O/T anymore???

lol - not enough action in Tech

learn to enjoy the bickering in O/T. but - yes - when people get personal it can get ugly. we've seen more than enough people run away crying, and never coming back.....
Jazzman was probably our greatest loss here on PFF. his knowledge & his photo collection of every last detail of his stock rebuild - where every little thing looked brand new.

and, for me - I just love argueing....must be the jewish heritage...

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: lol - not enough action in Tech learn to enjoy the bickering in O/T. but - yes - when people get personal it can get ugly. we've seen more than enough people run away crying, and never coming back..... Jazzman was probably our greatest loss here on PFF. his knowledge & his photo collection of every last detail of his stock rebuild - where every little thing looked brand new. and, for me - I just love argueing....must be the jewish heritage...

My wife is Jewish... you don't have to tell me. Even when I think I've won an argument... I somehow haven't???

------------------
Todd,
2008 Jeep Patriot Limited 4x2
2002 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr 4x2
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter

Almost any quality set of wires will do,, the Fiero store STI will be fine,,have then send you a catalog..

The MSD coil is superior to accel coil

A swap is not the Keg party and date with Scarlette Johansen it may seem ..
work with what you have ,,do the easier less expensive modifications ,,younger owners normally want big power do modifications to improve efficientcy ,,do the tune up stuff ,,make sure there are no vacuum leaks .If you are young use mobile one oil,not cheap but it will keep youth full vigor from frying engine..

Porting the stock exhaust manifolds is a great introduction to engine modifications,,This is not easy,, a pain in the Big toe,, if manifold bolts snap or break!! PORTING the stock exhaust manifolds is the BEST modification you can make to a 2.8 fiero V 6,,the bestest by far,,,performance ,,mpg,,cooler running ,Idle ,efficientcy,,this modification makes it possible for other mods to give peak performance ..a dremel moto tool works great here ..it can be done with just a drill..
curb the enthusiasm and learn the car ,,unless you have unlimited budget ,or compliant wealthy girlfriend.
Do mods that require no engine internal work,,make it run great and as you proceed ,,you can firm up your Ideas of engine swaps,, or 13 second !/4 mile runs in the 2.8..
do stuff like make sure your distributor oil seal does not leak..all vacuum lines are secure,, the clutch slave works perfectly,,the brakes are all free and not dragging on one wheel..
possibly install a free flowing muffler ,or a performance cat...

Uhlanstan is right here. I use Taylor 8.8 mm wires, ACDelco plugs(NGK are also good) and an MSD coil.

Port matching intake side is really important. Porting the exhaust port to get rid of the hump is a big help, and goes with the ported manifolds and Y.

If you have the tools, you can port your heads. That is a good gain. It is all a matter of what tools and skills you have.

Arn

You have been getting some well balanced advice.
Be aware that porting the exhaust manifold solves only part of the problem - the crossover pipe needs work too.

If you don't want to spend quite awhile at a grinder, you can get the exhausts done fairly cheaply by taking them to a machine shop - anywhere from $50 to a case of beer will probably do it. They can set them up on a milling machine and simply bore each hole in about 2 seconds, just leaving you with the final cleanup and poilish if you want to bother.

This pic shows untouched port below (except that the gaskey line has been scribed on it). See the silly assed metal the factory left in there?
The one above has been bored on a miling machine. See how much thinner the ring of carbon is? and the sheet metal that stuck out in the path of the flow is now gone. Just needs a final clean up and bolt on the engine - biggest gain you'll get from a simple mod - around 8 BHP boost.



Don't bother with bigger throttle bodies - the restrictions are elsewhere (as some have indicated, in the upper plenum). A waste of money unless you change the upper plenum. Second pic is the upper plenum on my other car, using a Camaro plenum, bored out to 62 mm from 52 mm. Works because there is no elbow restriction as on the Fiero plenum.

quote Originally posted by BillS:

thats going in a Fiero, is it? are them "MG" Decals on the intake?
what TB are you using for the 62mm bore?

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: thats going in a Fiero, is it? are them "MG" Decals on the intake? what TB are you using for the 62mm bore?

No, it is a Camaro 3.4 that I use in an old MG with a fibreglass body. The TB is a bored and sleeved Camaro TB. A lot more fun given that it is only 2000 lbs.!
The MG on the plenum was scanned and then computer engraved on the plenum after I removed all the stock lettering.

This is the car and the install:

[This message has been edited by BillS (edited 01-08-2010).]

quote Originally posted by BillS: This is the car and the install:

Very Nice!

At the moment I don't have anywhere near the money I am sure. However, I was wondering if anyone could give me a 3800 series II swap price range. Maybe even if it is supercharged.

-Jeff

Now your talking. The 3.8L turns the fiero into a very full car. I was in your exact situation about 5 yrs ago. I was in my senior yr of high school, my first car broke down, i had no money but wanted a cool looknig car so i bought a fiero for next to nothing. 84 2m4 with out alot of power a neighbor who knew alot about cars turned me on to an 3.8 engine swap. He found me a smashed up police impala cruiser for a few hundred bucks with limited miles on it (25000 at the time) He knew a guy that would do the swap for me and before i new it that slow fiero turned into my favorite car. When all said and done i had spent about $4000 on the fiero the impala the engine swap and transmission swap total. It can keep up with anyone i know's car. Becareful though these cars are so easy to fall in love with

hey skuzzboomer where exactly u from in nashville im down here for college.
anyways. you could tear the motor down to scratch and rebuild it into a 400 hp built machine
complete with titanium rods and super stiff valve springs and a 10k rpm redline with roller timing
chain, roller rockers, mechanical lifters, titanium valves, yada yada yada. 15k dollars but id do a 327 v8 for that
like said before the fiero was a better handler than a speedster. but they still didnt have too great of a sway bar.
and pre 88 needs a rear sway bar add on kit to really shine.
you should look at brake kits too. the grand am swap is really easy and neat. you should try it. there should be a link somewhere on pennocks

If you want to try and port things check out fieromaniacs thread in the construction zone. He did some really great work on his stock rebuild.

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85 GT 4 speed 2.8L auto X'er

www.freewebs.com/saskatoonfieros/