ok so im replacing the water pump on the 87 4cyl with ac fiero and i have the batt out coolant drained and belt off but im really cant figure out how to go about taking it off

Need pulley puller/install kit. (Same one that the power steering pump pulley.)
Autozone, etc, has loaner tool. (My favorite...)

May need to unbolt the engine mount and jack engine up to give you some room for puller/install kit. (Need battery out...)

See cave, serpent belt. you need to read when you install the pulley.

or Some people say some bolt can be "walk" out... One bolt give 1 turn. Next bolt give 1 turn. etc and etc until it's out.

or still other say you can the whole thing off the block..

Need pulley kit anyway... See cave. Serpent belt. Or you'll eat belt. May need to tweak the pulley.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 01-28-2010).]

so dont use the after market pulley that comes on the new ones? and should i take it off at the block or at the pump which is easier?

I changed the water pump on an '84 duke when I had the cradle swung down at the back for a tranny swap, and taking the pump off the housing (as opposed to taking the housing off the block) was pretty easy. I imagine though it's more difficult when the engine and cradle are up in their proper location.

If the replacement water pump has exactly the same pulley on it as your original one, go ahead and use it. Saves the hassle of getting the proper pulley puller. (Say those last three words quickly five times.)

quote Originally posted by Patrick: I changed the water pump on an '84 duke when I had the cradle swung down at the back for a tranny swap, and taking the pump off the housing (as opposed to taking the housing off the block) was pretty easy. I imagine though it's more difficult when the engine and cradle are up in their proper location. If the replacement water pump has exactly the same pulley on it as your original one, go ahead and use it. Saves the hassle of getting the proper pulley puller. (Say those last three words quickly five times.)

I think some of the later model 2.5's used a different water pump, other accessories, and a serpentine belt. I had a cracked housing on my '84-a real witch to find, and worse to fix, engine in place, in the driveway. I still haven't reinstalled the compressor, as I had to start using her for a D.D. again.

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'84 Sport Coupe (third time's a charm?)

yup the 87's use a serpentine belt

I cut out, And Installed a "unboltable Battery Box" with the battery box out, you can get right at the waterpump ! In My oppinion, a great "upgrade"

I unbolted the pump from the housing by getting behind the pulley with a wrench. After the pump was off, I swapped pulleys. It was pretty quick. I wouldn't try to take off the pulley with the pump in the car. This was on an '88 coupe (same engine).

J.

so since the pulley is in the way of the bolts i cant use a ratchet and with the norm wrench i cant get enough torque to break the bolts loose what can i do now?

box ended wrench, extra long? Not sure, I really never had a problem with taking bolts off a water pump with a wrench, but I have strong hands/arms. I have used a small hammer to tap the wrench to get bolts free, try that. Just make sure you are using "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey".

J.

[This message has been edited by jaskispyder (edited 01-29-2010).]

Like theogre mentioned, you may need to rent a wheel /pulley puller but the space is so tight on the Duke. If not, can you get a long breaker bar on those stubborn bolts? Maybe a hunk of pipe over the end of your wrench for torque? The problem is that you haven't any room to work with, even if you pop a dogbone bolt out and pull the engine back towards the trunk, you'll only gain 2-inches or so.

I don't know if this will be of much value to you but here is a link to the dissassembly pictures on my 88 Duke with air. Feel free to click around, save them to your computer too if you like, that's why I posted them, to help my forum friends.

http://jetman.smugmug.com/C...KwbE#310980886_ynESJ

I guess that half the battle is "seeing" which bolts to remove to get the housing off. Man alive, I know your pain, keep at it, you'll get it, everyone in this thread is pulling for you.

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jetman
Silver 86 SE 2M6 4-speed, with "check wallet light"
Now fortified with 8 essential slices of bacon goodness

Yup, we want you to succeed! I have changed two 2.5l water pumps (84 and 88), both without taking the pulley off. You can do it!

so i actually dont have the shield between my exhaust manifold and the engine block that being said would it just be easier to just take the whole housing off instead of the housing off the pump?

Found it, here is the thread that I had bookmarked....

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090219-2-084336.html

[This message has been edited by jetman (edited 01-29-2010).]

well i got it off today but seams like the pump is fine... thought it had a plastic propeler but it doesnt and it spins freely but there really isnt anything else i can check is there?

I'll offer this advice, you may wish to consider replacing the pump now rather than later since they're such a bear to get at.
The usual items here, make sure that everything is absolutely clean, chase the thread holes, fresh gaskets, Permatex "Right Stuff", fresh hoses and clamps too. You know that we're saying to take your time to do the job right, don't want any headaches later after all this much work you've put in.

quote Originally posted by drebinpk: well i got it off today but seams like the pump is fine... thought it had a plastic propeler but it doesnt and it spins freely but there really isnt anything else i can check is there?

Only V6 Fieros have the plastic impeller problem. All duke water pumps have a cast iron impeller. I don't think you ever said what the problem is, that caused you to take it off. So what was the problem?

Now that you already "have it out", Change the pump. Otherwise, the Seal will surely go bad 3 days after you put the old one back in !

Was there an original symptom you were trying to diagnose or fix? Run it past us, if so. I agree on the pump. Since everything is apart already, and the new one doesn't cost much, do it now, enjoy carefree driving later.

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'84 Sport Coupe (third time's a charm?)

so he was the problem when i run the car and let it warm up it climbs to 250-260 really fast and the radiator will be cold but when you change the rmps allot it will cool down to norm temp for maybe 10sec so i did some test tried it without thermo and same thing just took longer to warm up. then i took the thermostat houseing cap off and rad cap off and put some coolant in the thermo housing to see if it would come out the rad and it did this tells me there isnt any clogs between the 2 and i checked all the pipes to make sure they were free of bends and they were

2 things: have you checked the Temp with a Mechanical Gauge ? Have you put a gauge on the radiator cap opening to check for head gasket leak ? with all the caps ON & the system Full, after it reads 260, does it pike out coolant anywhere ? drain ? cap hose ?

there deff isnt a head gasket leak it has a brand new head and gasket on it and you cant smell any coolant in the air no leaks in the system

Remember that he's got an 87 Duke, the temperature sending unit is up on the thermostat fill cap assembly, it's tough to keep the sender in the coolant without a thorough burping procedure.

ok so i installed the new pump but cant get the alternator on now... have the belt right but just not enough slack to bolt the alt down

bump

Install the alternator first *then* put the belt on. You'll never get the alternator bolted up with the belt on, there's usually too much force behind the tensioner. BE CAREFULL on the tensioner, over time they get weak and you may crack it so go easy on it.

Edit.... found a picture for you just in case the diagram is missing from the deck lid.

[This message has been edited by jetman (edited 02-01-2010).]

also the pulley on the new water pump doesnt look 100% even with the rest of the pulleys

quote Originally posted by drebinpk: also the pulley on the new water pump doesnt look 100% even with the rest of the pulleys

That was a good catch finding that out before your final assembly.

Take a straight edge and check it against the other pulleys, that's the most accurate way of measuring. All the pulleys need to be true to each other otherwise you'll toss and shred belts all day long. Is it possible that the water pump pulley isn't on all the way?

A cracked shaft in the water pump, or air in the system, would seem the most likely caused of the problem. Fieros are funny about air in the system. Check out proper, "burping," procedure at Ogre's cave, or there are instructions somewhere on V8 Archie's site.

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'84 Sport Coupe (third time's a charm?)

well i have the whole thing back together and it isn't running hot anyomore! but it is leaking at the housing and block...

Are you sure it is the block/housing? Is the hose clamp tight? Did you do anything to the block/housing connection?

well i took it off at the block and housing but put a new gasket there only thing i can think is maybe i didnt get all the old gasket off? it felt like i did but could really see to tell it was all just based of feel

When I had my cracked housing, this is how it all started. I supported the car on jacks stands, got underneath with the car running, to finally find it. it as cracked near the inlet assembly, and just sort of seeped out, bounced around, and ended up dripping off the cradle. I thought it was the inlet to housing o-ring at first, and it was hard to see with the compressor in place (not sure if comp. is same location on your car). Then, I was sure I'd lost my touch with gaskets, tore it apart, cleaned it up, painstakingly seal/assemble-still leaking. Had never heard of a cracked housing, so never bothered to check.

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'84 Sport Coupe (third time's a charm?)

quote Originally posted by drebinpk: well i took it off at the block and housing but put a new gasket there

When I replaced my water pump, I didn't use a new gasket between it and the housing. Instead, I left the old gasket on and sealed it with 35 year old Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket. (Yes, I've had this stuff for awhile!)

Might not be the recommended procedure, but it worked for me.

My 35 year old bottle does not look quite as clean as this one...

I used the gasket and a product called "high tack sealant" from permatex. It is a product you brush on both surfaces and stick them together. This will seal up the small areas. You can also use the product mentioned above. You may have to take everything apart again to check for the problem. I would check the simple things like hoses/clamps first. Is there a reason you took of the housing?

J.

i took it off at the housing cause its about 8x easier to do it that way when you have stuck bolts on the pump