have any of you used dupli-color paint shop candy color paints ? how hard was it to use ? what was the quality of it

Are you an "Experienced Painter" ? shooting "Transparent paint " is hard enough for someone who is "used to it." (STRIPES)

My understanding is that all of those paints are lacquer. Lacquer is very forgiving. You can build it up in light coats and if you make a mistake it is easy to remedy it, not at all like working with acrylic or enamel type paints.

I have used lacquer on custom guitars for years and I can tell you it is a dream to work with. No special masks required, just the usual mask (if you use one). On small jobs or "cutting in" the lacquer is hard to beat. Hope this helps

Arn

It is easy to work with but the durability is questionable if you leave the car out in the sun alot. If I'm not mistaken lacquer never stops shrinking and uv rays are hell on it.

Vinny

Some early lacquers had sun exposure problems but the modern versions do not.

BTW, look at any 50-60 year old Gibson or Martin guitar. The finishes are still good and they are lacquer.

Arn

I used it to paint flames on a pedal car I got my nephew but I wouldn't use it on a real car personally, it's not really what I'd call a very high-quality paint.

has any one used Eastwoods paint

Two points:
1) Laquer is an out-dated technology. Modern base/clear is far superior. I wouldn't use laquer on a go-cart, much less a car - UNLESS you're doing a restoration on a car from the 50's or earlier that came with laquer originally.
2) True CANDY (which I doubt is what Duplicolor is) is not practical AT ALL for a street-driven car. It CANNOT be touched up OR spotted in for repairs. You HAVE to shoot the whole panel, & HOPE you get the EXACT same coverage to get the color to match.

Forget Eastwood. Go to your local autobody/paint supply & buy some good quality paint. I recommend Sikkens & PPG (ditzler), and for a budget paintjob Dupont Nason. Stick with base/clear. The base is as easy to shoot as laquer; the clear is a little trickier but you can sand & buff imperfections.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Carpe' kitty!

Ok i am not a pro body man if i where then i wouldnt be asking . Pleas do not take offence but are any of you pro auto body and paint people or highly skilled diy painters just trying to weigh the advice i am getting thanks

i am a collision shop manger /painter for 25 yrs any paint in a can isnt going to hold up to long !! if ur gonna do candy u need house of colors or ppg vibrance but it is very expensive!!!and if u dont know how to spray it it"ll be very zebra striped and look very bad what exactly are you trying to paint?

want to paint a GT FIero i am going to paint it with the bodie off the car

The paint he is talking about comes premixed in quarts.
It is lacquer based and it is actually pretty decent lacquer paint.

It is pricey though compared to high batch enamel fleet style paint.

[This message has been edited by deezil (edited 04-01-2010).]

i personally have never used duplicolor but if it were me i would bite the bullet and get either house of colors or ppg vibrance they are both very awsome products!!! also if u paint all the panels off the car ur going to have a very hard time making the panels match! when u do candy jobs u need to walk the sides while spraying for nice even coats! absolutly cannot panel paint candy.i personally have shot a ton of candy jobs and there not fun very time consuming but great results when done but if u dont know what ur doing you will end up with blotchy spots and tiger stripes !!

ok then i will do it with the car all togethere and i am told with candy you need like 50 precent overlap on the paint

i do at least 50 percent over lap! i try for 75% and once u get it to were it looks all covered equally i then reduce the candy 20 to 25% more and put on a couple more coats !! make sure u walk the sides and then rght over the hood and deck lid to other side walking the whole disrance of the car and youll be alright just make sure u cover it ! it will seem darker when u finally have it all covered evenly but candy works when the sun is hitting it! so when u pull it outside itll be the color u want !!! when u have it were u think its covered put three more coats on as described above!!!! just remember with candy the more color u put on the more depth u get!!!!

Ok thanks for the info

no problem let me know how it works out

quote Originally posted by engine man: Ok i am not a pro body man if i where then i wouldnt be asking . Pleas do not take offence but are any of you pro auto body and paint people or highly skilled diy painters just trying to weigh the advice i am getting thanks

I've been doing custom paint & body/fiberglass work for ~40 years.
Do NOT put true candy on a street car! See above post.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

That's not meth! That's Professor Cuyler's liquid miracle wake up claificational get thin & steal sterio equipment stay up for four days & lose your teeth juice tonic!

i put true candy on cars all the time here in michigan! why wouldnt you?? if u want the look of candy u need to use the real deal other wise it looks fake!

I see cars painted in candy every day in west palm beach FL and there out there driving them

What is candy anyway? Any photos?

and my credentials to be in this thread, I took a quarter of autobody repair at a tech school in high school one summer...

Laquer holds up "IF" you take care of it. Lots of cleaning, polishing and waxing. I know lots of people with 50s-60s cars with ORIGINAL paint. These dont just set out in the sun and weather and are kept clean and polished. It is also more forgiving to amature painters....anything from dirt, bugs or runs can be fixed in just a few minutes. Its dry in 15 mins. The myth about it never drying is absolutely the opposite. It dries, but takes a month or two to fully cure and when it does its hard and brittle....dont take bending like on a plastic bumper or nicks from things like stones. It will 'break' and chip very easily where base/clears stay soft even when fully dried. I get people all the time bringing new cars to me to get scratches buffed off that they put on the hood, roof, ect just laying bags, coats or purses on it. Laquer without care fades fast and oxidizes on the surface to where it even looks like flat paint. BUT it will rub right back up to glass if theres enough paint to buff. Newer paint when it does fade (silver and gold especially) is pretty much done. Ive spent hours trying to polish up just a hood on an older basecoat paint job with very little difference. The nice thing about basecoat is it does look nicer for longer with even minimal care and it more resistant to chips just because they dont dry as hard.. The only reasons laquer isnt used now except rarely is 1/ its not good like I said on flexible parts like bumper...it will crack......and 2/ EPA decided components in it were harmful to the ecology. And thats even an oxymoron, basecoat paints are lethal and deadly even in small doses...much more than laquer ever was. They dont even have room for anything on the label now except safety warnings and dangers. Laquer was nice for repair work because getting it wet with thinner would soften it back up so you could spot in areas instead of whole panels. All the manufacturers of current paint SAY they have a solvent that will soften up the original paint to blend in...but none of them actually work. Might get it 'good enough to get by' is whats heard commonly in body shops. I do whole panels so they are done right and are undetectable. Ive yet to see anyone, shops or paint manufacturers demo guys, do a blended job I cant spot from 10 feet away.

Anyway on your specific question, ANY candy color is extremely difficult for an amature. The base color usually silver, white or gold, has to be flawless before the candy goes on. Any mistake like even a bug getting on it and you have to start over from scratch with the base color. Every coat you put on makes it a tinge darker. You CANT paint a fender, then door and quarter....because where you overlap becomes doubly darker at edges with each coat. You have to start at one side bottom and go from front to rear in one long pass, then move up to make the next pass. You keep going up, then to hood roof and trunk still going with same front to rear passes, then down the other side where you end at the other rocker panel. Having a candy paint job done will cost you 3-4 times or more than any other paint job. When I was doing restoration jobs on older cars, just the paint job was $1500-2500. A candy job on same car would run you $6000 and up.

______________________________________________


Owner / Operator Custom Paint and Body...
specializing in Corvette & Higher End Autos for 40+ years
Ferrari, Mercedes and Porsche Body Repair Approved
____________________________________________

toys: '66 custom Dodge 'Super Bee'
'92 rare Firebird T/A conv of 1325..FOR SALE

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 04-01-2010).]

quote Originally posted by topsportsmanta1: i put true candy on cars all the time here in michigan! why wouldnt you?? if u want the look of candy u need to use the real deal other wise it looks fake!

TRUE candy? With a base coat, TRANSPARENT candy color, & clear? I doubt it. You're probably shooting paint the manufacturers CALL "candy".
Like I said it CANNOT be spotted back in (or touched up) without being seen.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

So...have you looked into the summit base/clear stuff? Not candy but they have some pretty sweet looking colors for what seems like a low price, and it looks like its pretty straight forward with how to mix n spray. I'm not trying to be a jerk, but it sounds like you just aren't up to doing a real candy job. I know I'm sure not gonna try

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: Laquer was nice for repair work because getting it wet with thinner would soften it back up so you could spot in areas instead of whole panels. All the manufacturers of current paint SAY they have a solvent that will soften up the original paint to blend in...but none of them actually work. Might get it 'good enough to get by' is whats heard commonly in body shops. I do whole panels so they are done right and are undetectable. Ive yet to see anyone, shops or paint manufacturers demo guys, do a blended job I cant spot from 10 feet away. _____________________________________________ Owner / Operator Custom Paint and Body... specializing in Corvette & Higher End Autos for 40+ years Ferrari, Mercedes and Porsche Body Repair Approved ____________________________________________ toys: '66 custom Dodge 'Super Bee' '92 rare Firebird T/A conv of 1325..FOR SALE

GOOD GRIEF!!! You're STILL making that claim after ALL we've been through. I wish to HELL you'd come by so I can SHOW you how to do it right!
Maybe you could stop ripping off the insurance companies (& therefore ALL of us) by painting the WHOLE panels (both 1/4s & the roof) for a TINY dent in one 1/4 panel.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

When I got my first fiero and built it, I knew next to nothing about living with flexible body panels.. First thing I did after the swap was run down to the shop that did all the show cars, and tell him I wanted a true candy-apple red paintjob. He priced it at about $3900 for strip, block, paint, cut, and polish. It took him 3 weeks, and came out perfect. It looked so nice, until I bumped a garbage can with my rear bumper. That many coats of paint, it spidered instantly, and turned my fiero into a fragile beauty. It also rock-chipped really easily, and in general was a pain in the a$$ to keep looking nice. I believe it was lacquer, but it's been 10 years and I can't remember anymore. Nobody had one that looked like my color, and it looked a mile deep, but it really was a complete pain worrying about anything touching my car. I'll never do anything other than a base/clear urethane on a fiero again. Do what you want, but just know the drawbacks of putting that many layers (I think he said it took almost 17 layers with the pinks, reds, metallic, and semitransparents, along with the clear coats) on a plastic car. I'll chalk it up to youthful fancy on my part, but since I like driving my cars, I'll keep my next one a bit more practical...

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Currently in the middle of my 88 + 3800NA swap

Ok so who make some thing that looks realy close to candy but is not ? would pearl paint be the next best thing and it is hard to paint to isnt it ? how about this House of Kolor Kandy Shimrin Base Coat, it looks like it isnt 3 stage like the silver than the color then clear

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-01-2010).]

dupont has awsome colors and ppg has there vibrance but what u should really check in to if u want something really cool is sherwin williams has paint called glass beads very easy to spray and looks freakin awsome i did a couple its priced rght and they have colors that look candy (depth) base coat clear coat! u just put down ur base and then the glass beads over it which is transparent so u dont get light and dark spots and then clear it check in to it

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: GOOD GRIEF!!! You're STILL making that claim after ALL we've been through. I wish to HELL you'd come by so I can SHOW you how to do it right! Maybe you could stop ripping off the insurance companies (& therefore ALL of us) by painting the WHOLE panels (both 1/4s & the roof) for a TINY dent in one 1/4 panel. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"

If the paint companies OWN demo techs cant do it, I hardly think you can. I dont rip off the insurance company....they write the estimate that I follow. I never write an estimate to an insurance job. They also know you cant spot it in correctly to please a picky customer. Thats why they pay to have it done right. For the average person, spotting it in may be acceptable...most never even wash or wax their car so they will never see it. Ill not go the cheap way out and spot a place on a guys $150,000 car. Ill do it for the buy here, pay here used car lots. You do it your way and Ill do it mine. My way actually takes less time and effort because I KNOW it will be perfect first time and I dont have to keep retrying to hillbilly it.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: If the paint companies OWN demo techs cant do it, I hardly think you can. I dont rip off the insurance company....they write the estimate that I follow. I never write an estimate to an insurance job. They also know you cant spot it in correctly to please a picky customer. Thats why they pay to have it done right. For the average person, spotting it in may be acceptable...most never even wash or wax their car so they will never see it. Ill not go the cheap way out and spot a place on a guys $150,000 car. Ill do it for the buy here, pay here used car lots. You do it your way and Ill do it mine. My way actually takes less time and effort because I KNOW it will be perfect first time and I dont have to keep retrying to hillbilly it.

There you go again calling me a liar! You CANNOT see any spot where I blend in the clear urethane, EVEN ON BLACK. Just because you can't do it & "have never seen anyone who could" doesn't mean I'm a freakin' "hillbilly" that don't know what I'm doing! If you would just TRY my method you'd find that it works WELL, & you'll never see the blend. It melts in just as well as laquer. So, I can properly use the "new" urethanes & you can't - & you call ME a hillbilly?
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Pardon my driving; I'm reloading.

Ok i tried the dupli-color candy red and this is my end results


Not this again with the pics

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-02-2010).]

well i found a ford color i like it is candy red metallic it is a 3 stage paint it's a candy right from the factory and from what you guys have told me it's gona be a b1tch to match

quote Originally posted by engine man: well i found a ford color i like it is candy red metallic it is a 3 stage paint it's a candy right from the factory and from what you guys have told me it's gona be a b1tch to match

If you're talking about E9, ford laser red (from a 98ish mustang color), that is the exact color I was referring to in my earlier post, and it was not possible for a shop to match after a certain gravel incident. The whole car required repainting before I was happy.

It's too bad it was impossible to keep from spidering, it was a beautiful paint job.


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Currently in the middle of my 88 + 3800NA swap

[This message has been edited by aaronkoch (edited 04-03-2010).]

No the new ford's candy red metallic is U6 you can get it on the new fords it has a base then tinted clear then a clear . I will say your cars paint looks awsome

quote Originally posted by aaronkoch: If you're talking about E9, ford laser red (from a 98ish mustang color), that is the exact color I was referring to in my earlier post, and it was not possible for a shop to match after a certain gravel incident. The whole car required repainting before I was happy. It's too bad it was impossible to keep from spidering, it was a beautiful paint job.

Yeah it's just not practical for a street car. If you drive it, it WILL get chips & scratches in it. Now you have a car that will chip even easier (unless they stripped all that pretty candy off of it). Did you get it re-painted in the same color (that you can't blend in)?
There are sooooo many gorgeous colors out there I don't know why anyone would paint a street car with something you can't repair.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

I love the duplicolor. Check out my black car on my Site. www.exoticmotorsports.com I painted that car using Duplicolor Paint. You really can't go wrong as long as you take your time and most importantly take your time when masking. I have pictures on my site polishing the black duplicolor paint. You can see the fine perfect results. I normally paint in a booth but My buddies shop closed so painting in the garage was the only option. And there's no flash time. You can layer everyday for the next month if you wanted to just make sure it's at least 70+ degrees in your shop. The possibilities are endless and its affordable. You can also color sand for an even perfect paint job. My current Stinger Project car will be painted in duplicolor. I'm mixing duplicolor effects clear with high density candy over pearl glow paint.

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customwheels@exoticmotorsports.com" TARGET=_blank>www.ExoticMotorSports.com

quote Originally posted by Tha Driver: Did you get it re-painted in the same color (that you can't blend in)?

Hey, I never claimed to be smart.. When it was in for the repair, I told Mr. Bodyman about my problems with the paint, and he assured me he could keep it from doing that again. He added some flex agent, and it was ok for about a week, then the paint literally SLID off the hood, like an old lady's skin. I screamed, cried, then took it back to him, and he called up his PPG rep, who came out, looked at the car, and proceeded to pay for a complete stripdown and repaint (which was fine by me, since the colors didn't really match perfectly when they did the front repaint and blended it.)

So, yeah, same paint, but I didn't have to pay for it.

This time, now that I'm married with children and a mortgage payment, it's tcpglobal and a harbor freight gun. Funny how priorities change..

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Currently in the middle of my 88 + 3800NA swap

well the dupli-color was easy to use and produced a great looking panle now if i could only post some pics of it

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 04-04-2010).]