AJ,
Is your trans offset back any from the centerline of the wheels? With my engine as far forward as I can, it looks like I'm an inch or so behind the centerline of the wheel well. How far back can you go without messing with the axles and tri-pots?

Bob

I will take a look at how much off it is. I looked at it in a different manner. The most important concern is appearance the second is functionality. The appearance and quality of workmanship needs to be #1 to get top dollar. The CV axles will do the job. Most rear ends or off set to one side and are not in a straight line side to side. I used a 4T80E trans.

I'm using the the same trans...Thanx AJ

Bob

My motor in the race car got claimed. This was to be my motor for my Beretta. Not good. The engine is not done for the 99 car and This means this week will be all for the 99 car and no Fiero. Time is running out to get it done.

quote Originally posted by AJxtcman: Built a nice shifter from a combination of a Fiero, Seville, and an SRX.

Do you have any pics of the shifter? I'd like to see that.

I bought a second Fiero auto shifter because I picked up the DTS shifter.
I will take a picture soon. Big storm outside and I am scared of the rain. Oh yeah I forgot I grew up in SW Washington

quote Originally posted by RCR: Thanx AJ, this is the part I'm missing: Is that bracket and mount available on all FWD Cadillacs? Bob

The '97 and earlier engines do NOT have the mounting hole next to the balancer and can not use that bracket.

I see that you have issue thinking today Will!
First thing The block problem. I have never seen a block without the 1 hole, but I have heard of that problem.
SECOND is the shape of the frame rails. The mounting vertical bolt hole are not even from front to back and the bolt holes are offset. You must swap sides. That is what I said. The part of the mount the attaches to the bottom of the frame rail is wider at on end than the other. If I remember correctly the left mount is wider at the rear, but on the Fiero the strut tower is right in the way and the frame is narrower. You need to run a right side mount. Can you follow that!
PS WILL and RYAN Guess what I can do
http://www.cadillacforums.c...orthstar-tuning.html

------------------
Cadillac Tech
ASE MASTER TECH since 1988

86 Northstar Fiero
85 RX7 former SCCA car
56 TR3 small mouth 6.0L
Formerly Washougal WA Resident
A.J. Whiteley

Can you tune yet?

Seems pointless to load foreign factory calibations and call it tuning or reprogramming or whatever.

Thanx for the info AJ...I decided to use the Aurora mount on the passenger side. It will mount on top of the frame rail. I will use the Aurora tranny mount on the right, similar to the way you did yours. I built most of the passenger mount last night. Just need to add some gussets, drill some holes, and pretty it up.

Bob

quote Originally posted by ryan.hess: Can you tune yet? Seems pointless to load foreign factory calibrations and call it tuning or reprogramming or whatever.

Yes and No
I can do more than load GM CALs. I am breaking them down and deciphering the differences, then assembling them and sending them to the tech II. They no longer has GM cal # and are not recognized by GMs TIS program

quote Originally posted by AJxtcman: I see that you have issue thinking today Will! First thing The block problem. I have never seen a block without the 1 hole, but I have heard of that problem.

I have two. A '95 and a '93. I also have a couple of later flat tappet engines that have it. Since you said that they started using that mount in '98, I @$$umed that 97 was the last year without that boss.

Not true I have had 97s with it. I have a 97 in at the moment so I will look. I know that the third shop guy has a 96 or 97 with it. We have discussed that very topic about that block or it may be it was a Deville block VS a Seville block in 98.

I'll have to refresh my memory by taking a look, but I think that the lower crank case with the boss is a different casting than the lower crank case without. I find it hard to believe that GM would make different lower crank cases (even if it's just the machining and not the casting) for different model lines. I think it's a model year characteristic.

DELLS RUN
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The car will be done and for sale at the Dells

I am going in this morning at 7am to do the right side before 8am. I will be installing the ball joints, Tie rod, and the Vented brakes. I will align it after work. I will swap out the Throttle body so I can get 100% throttle. I have been running about 13.1 in the quarter mile. That is slower than my fastest time, but consistent. I have added several more wire to the PCM for Cruise, AC, Fan relays, brake switches, and more. I had removed the IAT sensor awhile back and I hope that it why I am not in the 12 second times. For the life of me I can not find it in all the spare junk for this car. After I align this slow turd I will attempt to hook up an IAT sensor and see if it makes it a 12.5 second rocket again. Yesterday I ended up working until 9am this was not so good.

[This message has been edited by AJxtcman (edited 05-09-2007).]

You got a time slip yet?

Or can I claim 11's so I'm cooler?

I did not want to touch the brakes because someone else will want something different. I make about 3 passes and then they are done. If I keep going this happens.
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I melted the paint.
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[This message has been edited by AJxtcman (edited 05-09-2007).]

sure, if you want to pick me up from downtown, but unfortunately it would have to be Sunday night for me.

Torque Management is awesome. I have added my last wires to the PCM and rerouted some wires to a new connector. I have not ran the wires out the other side of the connector. This make the PCM think I am applying the brakes. This make the car feel like I am holding the brake on. Fast but not very fast. Very neat.

quote Originally posted by AJxtcman: Anyone in the Milwaukee are want to go for a 12 second blast to prove to Ryan the car is a rocket.

...or you could go to the track.

The engine had 4557 miles on it when I pulled it out for a bad casting. I patched welded it. The coolant in between the layers was contaminating the weld. I was using a alloy product from my local supplier. The small leak soon spread to a 6" long Fish Scale like area. Ever time I thought I had it good some coolant residue would come up. I thought I had it good and so I installed it in the car. I was being rushed. The f****** idiot across from me wanted the engine support that I had the powertrain unit on. I installed the engine to give him the support table and had never pressure tested the block. It leaked at the head gasket. I dropped the powertrain out Pulled the head off and found that the layers of casting split all the way to the deck surface. I head back to the welding supplier to get some type of cleaner or flux. He called the manufacturer and they told him I should not use this product on this alloy block. I dig all my wire feed crap out to weld aluminum and get a some old alloy wire I had. I cut about half the wire off the roll and grind all the crap off the block. Reinstalled the head and pressure test it . Good to go. I had never driven the car off the lot with the coolant leak. I changed the oil and had everything taped off when I was grinding and welding. I had just ran the engine a couple of time with the leak.
After I Reinstalled the engine It sounded like it may have a misfire. I ran it to the Exhaust shop to have two little mufflers put on it so I could hear the car run. I had a Misfire in #7. Pulled the plug, then swapped it with #5, checked the wires, swapped out the coil assembly, and checked the injector. I found nothing, but when it missed I could hear an exhaust change. The miss slowly went away. If I would drive the car it would come and go. I cleaned the injectors twice. The more I drove it the less it happened. If it did miss it would stop if I let it idle. If the Torque Management kicked in it would misfire about 80% of the time immediately following that and I would let it idle about 15 second and it would be fine. Sound like a poor connection . If I make a sharp turn or U turn it would misfire about the same. I would just let it idle and it would clear out.
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Last night I was collecting more data on the program and about 100 MPH it shift back into 2nd for 1 second I let off the gas and then replanted my foot. ran it to 136 MPH and backed it down I over shot the first drive way so I drove down to the second drive way. I was at a cruise of about 35MPH. I did my U turn and it started to misfire.
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This is a 96 to 99 replacement engine. I have been wondering what could be the cause. Loose wire in my custom built harness? How about oil in the intake? The oil build up in the intake is cause by two thing first is high RPM ( I have that) the second is a baffle problem in the rear valve cover. The valve cover only has 5000 miles on it. You have to have both to get that much oil in the intake that it would slosh to one side and then misfire.
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This time the misfire did not clear up and it started to knock like a spun bearing or something in a cylinder. I limped it back home about 1 mile and it did not get better.
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I think it stuck a valve open and if I had to guess it is #7 cylinder. I do not understand why a U turn would cause a valve to stick.
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I pulled the power to the coil and cranked it this morning and it has a cylinder with low compression.
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I am headed back to the dealership this morning to check it out.
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In the snapshot I got it showed the PCM shifting 1st, ...... 2nd, ........ 3rd, ...2nd, 3rd............
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I had taken someone for a ride yesterday just before 5pm. Nice customer. I had mad a comment that I thought I heard some type of exhaust note difference from side to side, but I did not have a miss and it was very smooth.
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I am selling it at the end of the month and was realy pushing that deadline.

quote Originally posted by AJxtcman: Anyone in the Milwaukee are want to go for a 12 second blast to prove to Ryan the car is a rocket.

Sounds like your rocket crashed and burned on takeoff.

Did you try to turn a VIN Y into a VIN 9 by swapping cams? On some years the valve springs between the two are different, so running a "VIN 9" with vin y springs might reduce the redline a few hundred rpm. Overrev it and grenade a lifter.

[This message has been edited by ryan.hess (edited 05-12-2007).]

No Ryan this was a stock Vin Y replacement engine install on 1-15-05 and then I removed it from that car on 5-31-05. It sat in a crate until I installed it in my Turd.
The top of # 7 broke off. Too much timing? Oh yeah I can not tune.

It is not that bad
I tore down that junk 99 block I had. The one I installed the Time sert in and then pulled it out. Any way I put a set of Norms inserts in it and got in all ready to assemble. Pulled mine out and tore the head off just to look. WOW the block is good. Not perfect, but better that the other block. I need a piston and head but not much more. I have a set of heads fully machined and ready to go. I will use the other block and save the one I welded. It will be all ok and I will be at the DELLS.
Selling the car at the Dells

I wish I could get that cluster in before the DELL's. Anyone have any pointers?

Did you figure out what was bouncing around in there?

Yes I know exactly which nut washer it was and the place that it is used. I had not installed it on the engine yet. It may have been inside the intake from when I had removed it 2 years ago and stored it or it got slid inside.

[This message has been edited by AJxtcman (edited 05-22-2007).]

freshened up.


New set of heads. Fresh valve job

[This message has been edited by AJxtcman (edited 05-23-2007).]

quote Originally posted by AJxtcman: It is not that bad I tore down that junk 99 block I had. The one I installed the Time sert in and then pulled it out. Any way I put a set of Norms inserts in it and got in all ready to assemble.

der? whats a norms insert and how did you pull out a Time sert, My machine shop guy told me he was running a Mercedes block with a time serted bottom end at 800 hp. My time serts held up to 95 ft lbs of head bolt torque. Did you not use the tool to cold roll the last thread on the insert?

quote Originally posted by p8ntman442: der? whats a norms insert and how did you pull out a Time sert,

Here's a Norm insert kit ...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymot...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I put 'em in mine, and they're much more stout than Timeserts.

quote Originally posted by p8ntman442: der? whats a norms insert and how did you pull out a Time sert, My machine shop guy told me he was running a Mercedes block with a time serted bottom end at 800 hp. My time serts held up to 95 ft lbs of head bolt torque. Did you not use the tool to cold roll the last thread on the insert?

I had a customer sent to us from a used car lot. The used car lot was paying the bill. The car had a blown head gasket. I pulled the car in and found coolant running out the head gasket and into the valley (just from the short trip into the shop). I knew the block would be junk and not hold an insert. I pulled the head off and installed a GM TimeSert. I had found that the aluminum had deteriorated and that after drilling it out the bolt hole had major pits in the bore. I just installed a short bolt and stacked some washers. I did not even get 30flbs on the bolt before the insert pulled up. When I put Norms inserts in I found some holes had large pits, but his inserts have a larger contact area. I found some problems with Norm's tool and will share it with him. The problem would not be noticed unless you have used the GM tool enough to be familiar with it and can see the draw backs of both

[This message has been edited by AJxtcman (edited 05-25-2007).]