quote Originally posted by Hudini: Unfortunately, no it will not. The '84-'86 used a 300 series TBI where the '87-'88 used a 700 series TBI. The good news is those 300 series TBI's are found on many '80's-'90's GM cars and trucks. I can find 10 or 20 in my local pull-a-part junkyard. You have a junkyard like that near you?

Yes, Luckily there is actually an '84 there right now.

EDIT: was able to get ahold of all fiero .bin files. Will be creating a new thread for those who need them.

[This message has been edited by Shill (edited 05-10-2010).]

Found a few sites in my search. ANyone here fluent in another language? http://www.fiero-sector.de/...powerchip_fiero.html

http://www.moates.net/files...26156/lr8/WS_FTP.LOG
Looks like an FTP log. so the .bin is somewhere on their server. I can't seem to find my way around it.

The car is running great, made a long trip to fiero fest in richland. One problem I am having is that when I rewired it, I must've crossed the temp sensor and the temp gauge. The warning light slowly brightens until the t-stat opens and then the light will quickly dim and begin to brighten when it closes again. The temp gauge just sits at cold. I'm assuming that I got the colors wrong and that the gauge is powering the light and the light is powerign the gauge. Which color wires are the correct ones that go into the connectors at the block?

Go to the temp gauge sender, there is a green and a green with tan wire. Usually the plastic of the connector is broken off. Take the two and swap them and that will make the light and gauge work correctly




This applies IF your plastic shell is still in place for the Temp Gauge Sender connector
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You might have to put a paperclip into the plastic connector to bend a metal tang back to get the metal connector to pull out. After you get the two out, bent the tang back out so the metal connector stays in the plastic shell

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 08-23-2010).]

quote Originally posted by phonedawgz: Go to the temp gauge sender, there is a green and a green with tan wire. Usually the plastic of the connector is broken off. Take the two and swap them and that will make the light and gauge work correctly This applies IF your plastic shell is still in place for the Temp Gauge Sender connector

it was on there until I accidentally broke it off putting my socket over it to tighten it down. so I can just reverse the plug and it will be fine?

I'm not sure what you are saying. You need to swap the two wires on the temperature gauge sending unit. One should be green the other green with a tan stripe

The plug is square, I can turn it 180 without re soldering my wires.

OK - then you did and it fixed it right?

the sender should look like this


it should be located here


unbroken the connector from the wiring harness should have looked like this

(ignore the wire swap instructions if you can 180 the connector)

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 08-24-2010).]

I will be heading out tonight and will let you know the results in the morning. I don't doubt you at all though, so I suspect it will work flawlessly.

If your temp gauge is still doing the "pegging" when starting (as it did from the factory) you might want to 'fix' it.

Here is the fix for the pegging. It also has a fix for an innaccurate temp gauge.
http://www.fierosails.com/tempgage.html

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 08-25-2010).]

I spoke with Shill last night. He just fired her up after changing plugs and wires. He has the marine block 4cyl, and I must say it is quite peppy. This car was a basket case, and he has slowly pulled his first car back from the dead. Nice job Pennocks!

quote Originally posted by phonedawgz: If your temp gauge is still doing the "pegging" when starting (as it did from the factory) you might want to 'fix' it. Here is the fix for the pegging. It also has a fix for an innaccurate temp gauge. http://www.fierosails.com/tempgage.html

It has always done this, even when the connectors were disconnected or reversed, etc. What would the benefits of it not pegging? I see no problem with the gauge test at startup unless there is some hidden issue this will cause.

The advantanges of changing the wiring to eliminate the pegging

1 - You then have a check lamp function as you should for the temp light
2 - Your temp gauge isn't getting more and more inaccurate every time you start the car
3 - Your needle doesn't to the spaz out dance when you start the car.

The advantages of leaving it miswired as stock

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So you can decide. It is a common belief that GM miswired the check light function to the wrong leads. There is no other explaination that makes any sense as to why GM would have left off the check light function and made the temp gauge do it's nasty start spasm.

The instructions on the link show how to swap them. You swap would be a little easier since on the engine end all you would have to do is reverse the plug rather than pull the connectors out of the plastic shell. You will still need to do the corrisponding swap at the dash connector end as per the link.


btw - Light and gauge working correctly now?

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 08-25-2010).]