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Replace replacing rear main seal by MulletproofMonk
Started on: 05-28-2010 06:27 PM
Replies: 8
Last post by: Four_hundred_86 on 06-05-2010 12:00 PM
MulletproofMonk
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Report this Post05-28-2010 06:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for MulletproofMonkClick Here to visit MulletproofMonk's HomePageSend a Private Message to MulletproofMonkDirect Link to This Post
So this weekend I am going to replace a rear main seal that is leaking like pretty bad. Never done one on the Fiero. The thing is, this seal seams huge. It must be the right one since I had them check two...

I just want to verify that the grooved side goes in towards the motor (the first picture) and the flat side (second picture) goes towards the transmission. Anyone ever had that little plastic cone that comes with it? Also, do I need to use any sealer on it?





------------------
-Brian

My 87 GT Poly Suspension Upgrade (all pics) thread https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/094633.html

Removing the roof panel
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/106413.html

[This message has been edited by MulletproofMonk (edited 05-30-2010).]

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Bloozberry
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Report this Post05-28-2010 07:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by MulletproofMonk:

I just want to verify that the grooved side goes in towards the motor (the first picture) and the flat side (second picture) goes towards the transmission.


Yes... it's installed the way you stated. The plastic cone is there to help you get it on the shaft without it rolling on itself as you're inserting it. You aren't supposed to need sealant on the metal OD of the seal, but I always use a tiny dab of RTV and smear it all the way 'round for extra measure.
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bowrapennocks
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Report this Post05-29-2010 09:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for bowrapennocksDirect Link to This Post
It is important to insert the seal evenly. I made a simple tool using a block of wood with a hole drilled large enough to accept the crankshaft end. Lube the seal part with motor oil and place it against the opening. I tap on the wood (it must be larger than the seal). Using this approach, you can drive in the seal without distorting it. That gets it started and half way home. Then I remove the wood and drive the seal home with a large punch, going around the circle a little at a time. Tap very ligthly and carefully. I have done a few and do not use sealant. None of them leaked. I think that when you replace the seal, it sits farther in than the original, and thus riding on the crank in a different place.

Be careful taking the old seal out as you do not want to scratch either the crank or the block. Work slowly and carefully. I use a small screwdriver to get it out. It may take a little while but it will come out.
Jim
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MulletproofMonk
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Report this Post05-30-2010 12:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MulletproofMonkClick Here to visit MulletproofMonk's HomePageSend a Private Message to MulletproofMonkDirect Link to This Post
So, is this where the rear main seal goes, or does this come off?

------------------
-Brian

My 87 GT Poly Suspension Upgrade (all pics) thread https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/094633.html

Removing the roof panel
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/106413.html

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Indiana_resto_guy
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Report this Post05-30-2010 09:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Indiana_resto_guySend a Private Message to Indiana_resto_guyDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by MulletproofMonk:

So, is this where the rear main seal goes, or does this come off?




Yep, that is where it goes.

This too is mentioned:
 
quote
Originally posted by bowrapennocks: Lube the seal part with motor oil and place it against the opening.


Be sure to read any instructions that may have been included with the seal. Some of the newer materials used in seal require NO LUBE. If lube is used the seal will burn up and leak like a sieve. The opposite goes with the older materials if lube is not used so be careful with what you do.
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MulletproofMonk
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Report this Post05-30-2010 09:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MulletproofMonkClick Here to visit MulletproofMonk's HomePageSend a Private Message to MulletproofMonkDirect Link to This Post
Okay, so now I need to start linking a couple of threads together... Mostly because I didn't pull a seal out of there, it was missing... I'll recap them so that you don't have to read the entire threads...

First of all I bought the motor from fieroluv (Brian) over here in this thread. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum4/HTML/050994.html He had the motor rebuilt and attached to a 4 speed transmission. NAPA dipped the block, new cam, ground crank and fieroluv put together the top end. After I picked everything up I sold the motor to Xeps (Luke).

Xeps took the motor home and had a local shop install the motor. Over in this thread he is complaining that the motor is leaking oil. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/107980.html Basically they told him straight out of the gate the rear main seal was leaking and that it would cost him more money to have them fix it. I also had him take the car back because in trouble shooting the first part of the leak was the distributor which they put in wrong or without the seal because it leaked all down the motor.

Since I sold Xeps the motor, I obviously want to make the situation right. So Madess (Matt) and I go get the car last week, get a new rear main seal and start tearing into it yesterday. That picture I posted is what we saw last night after we go the transmission off the car. No rear main seal.

Now if they had to separate the 4 speed, remove the clutch/flywheel to put the flex plate/torque converter on with the automatic transmission, shouldn't a shop with a trained mechanic see it was missing? fieroluv's rebuild looks good so I don't think he forgot to put the rear main seal on the motor... but based on the ghetto work the shop did and then immediately said it was the rear main seal, maybe they took it out? I would hate to think that any shop is that shady, but these guys didn't put some of the bolts back in the brackets (including the transmission bracket).

------------------
-Brian

My 87 GT Poly Suspension Upgrade (all pics) thread https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/094633.html

Removing the roof panel
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/106413.html

[This message has been edited by MulletproofMonk (edited 05-31-2010).]

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nosaint
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Report this Post06-01-2010 11:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nosaintSend a Private Message to nosaintDirect Link to This Post
This sort of thing just sucks but seems to be way to common these days. Every where you go you are paying top dollar for mediocre service.
I try to never pay for this kind of work, as even so called professionals miss vital elements. They take no blame and damage your car in the process.

Your better to pay a buddy who has done it and help him, learn and do it yourself the next time. Seems that nobody will step up and say hey, i damaged your trunk like in your situation.

plain sucks!


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carbon
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Report this Post06-02-2010 08:44 AM Click Here to See the Profile for carbonSend a Private Message to carbonDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by nosaint:

This sort of thing just sucks but seems to be way to common these days. Every where you go you are paying top dollar for mediocre service.
I try to never pay for this kind of work, as even so called professionals miss vital elements. They take no blame and damage your car in the process.

Your better to pay a buddy who has done it and help him, learn and do it yourself the next time. Seems that nobody will step up and say hey, i damaged your trunk like in your situation.

plain sucks!



SO So so true...
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Four_hundred_86
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Report this Post06-05-2010 12:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Four_hundred_86Send a Private Message to Four_hundred_86Direct Link to This Post
I'm a shop mechanic I agree we do.miss things rarely but mistakes happen and in shops like mine if there is ever an issue We do everything possible to resolve it. That's how we do business sadly we are a rareity now a days, but. There are a few ways to find a good shop. First do.they use quality parts ie Napa oreilly. Second warranty my shop offers 18 month18000 mile and twelve twelve nation wide. Second is aaa approval it take 93% approval to stay aaa certified. Sadly these shops aren't the cheapest shop in town but ill always pay more for quality work.
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