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New lift points for cradle drop by fast40driver
Started on: 09-20-2010 12:15 AM
Replies: 4
Last post by: Gandalf on 09-20-2010 11:46 AM
fast40driver
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Report this Post09-20-2010 12:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fast40driverSend a Private Message to fast40driverDirect Link to This Post
Finally got around to dropping the cradle on the T-top , and was looking for a secure way to lift it. This is what I came up with. I purchased a couple of folding D rings at HF, $5.95 each, rated at 10,00lbs each.


I removed the vent covers, drilled a couple of holes on each side through the top of the shock tower, just aft of the strut mounting plate. This particular car is destined to become a Fino, so I kept the lift eyes a little inboard, so they will clear the hatch when the body is changed. Bolted the lift eyes on with two 3/8" bolts each - I used grade 5, no need to get carried away with anything fancy, standard bolts have plenty of load capacity. Just used nuts and flats on the back side. shock towers are pretty thick here, no backing plates needed. With the articulation in two planes, there is also little bending load on them, they don't have to be real tight either.


I lifted the car with two HF 1 ton chain hoists $44.95 each, plus used 20% coupons. Lift and control chains just fall into the trunk


For myself, I dropped a small glue-lam beam into the ceiling - one side resitng on wall plate over stud (2 x 6 wall), the other is hanging on a home-welded joist hanger ont another glue-lam. For me, this worked well. Span is 12', a 3 1/8 x 9 glue lam fell right in the load numbers, (Car WITH engine/cradle), cost me $48.00. I used a couple of axle straps from E-bay, rated at 10,000 lbs to attach the chain hoists. Package of 4 was $22.00. If I had not done this, I would have used the same glue lam, with some 4 x 4 posts to support it, tacked to a couple of ledgers nailed to the garage walls to stabilize it.


Easy to lift as high as I wanted, (front end was on ramps), nice and secure, NOTHING in the way under the car.


One other thing, figured I would be working on this a while. Made a quick stand, 4 x 4 posts, 2x 8 rails on top, OSB bracing, about 24" high total when placed on my wheel dollies. Cleats keep the wheel dollies in place. So much nicer to work on without bending over so much, interior and doors are easy to reach, and I can still move it around easily. The car balances well with no engine/cradle



Hope this helps someone.

Mike
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michfiero
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Report this Post09-20-2010 05:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for michfieroSend a Private Message to michfieroDirect Link to This Post
Beautiful!....gives me some ideas!

Thanks
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fieroguru
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Report this Post09-20-2010 08:39 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruDirect Link to This Post
I am not a fan of putting holes in the strut tower when you can use the strut holes themselves or the holes in the firewall cross bar and accomplish the same thing... but I will give you props for thinking outside the box.
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MstangsBware
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Report this Post09-20-2010 09:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MstangsBwareSend a Private Message to MstangsBwareDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

I am not a fan of putting holes in the strut tower when you can use the strut holes themselves or the holes in the firewall cross bar and accomplish the same thing... but I will give you props for thinking outside the box.


I agree....I used th holes in the crossbar with a set of heavy duty strap ends. Works great and the hooks fit the holes perfect.
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Gandalf
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Report this Post09-20-2010 11:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for GandalfSend a Private Message to GandalfDirect Link to This Post
You forgot the obligatory 'Standing in the engine bay' photo!
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