My 88 base coupe with the 2.5 and auto has a cradle that is rusted in half. I have a new cradle. I need to replace the cradle but I wondered if anyone can tell me what other parts I'm probably going to need to replace while I'm in there? Bushings, bolts, etc? Also, I searched the forums but didn't find any good information on the best way to leave the engine and transmission in place while dropping only the cradle for replacement. Thanks in advance!

Plan on replacing the front bushings. If you have bushings that are good in your replacement cradle then you already have them

Plan on having problems getting the bolts out of the front bushings.

The GM service manual and Haynes manuals have how to suspend the engine while replacing the cradle.

Manuals can be downloaded here

http://www.fieronews.net/fusion/downloads.php

I’d replace the motor and tranny mounts while you’re there. Not that expensive and this would be the time to do it.

[This message has been edited by DLCLK87GT (edited 11-15-2010).]

I do have a FSM so I'll be reading up on this. Good information so far. Keep it coming.

I built a "Hanger" out of 4x4 wood in the shape of a cross, suspended from the towers with chains going down to the engine/trans. bolted it up & pulled the cradle off from under it. It only cost a few $ for the 2 lengths of Chain.

The 88 cradles are solid mounting, so no need to replace or upgrade any cradle bushings.

The lateral link bushings might be worth replacing if you feel any darting while braking (with the duke/auto you aren't exactly stressing them under accelleration). If the current ones are good, then just swap the links and all to the new cradle.

Now with the 88 4 cyl auto, it uses a central transmission mount. This mount on the cradle was special to the 4 cyl autos and not present on the 88 manual or 88 V6 automatic cars. If your new cradle does not have this mount pad, then you will need to convert your transmission mounts to the V6/125C style... which is a bolt in solution.

Guru, great information. Thanks for that. I've done some reading tonight. I'm fairly adept at things mechanical so I'm sure I can do this without any real issue. I suspect soaking bolts in PB Blaster for several days is a good idea?

No one mentioned the PITA rear cradle bolts spinning in there pearch! Do a search on this one...

I appreciate the heads up. I was aware of the cage nut problem. I've run into something very similar on my old Trans Am.

If you end up dropping the engine/trans and cradle as a unit, I would go ahead and change the water pump out while you have easy access to it. Much harder to get to while in the car. Depending on how many miles on the motor, may be a good time to replace the timing gears. Mine went out about 110,000 miles. The pump and the gears are low cost items and much, much, easier to change while the cradle has been lowered. Something to think about. Good luck with the cradle change.
Greg

I was not planning on dropping the motor and trans. It appears that it can be suspended from above using a brace across the shock towers and you can drop just the engine cradle. That was all I wanted to do at this point. Somewhere down the road that Duke may come out and some other power plant may find its way in there but for now I just want to keep driving it and getting the excellent mileage.

Sounds like you need a engine support bar

You could use one from Max tools




Or the one from Harbor Freight



I have use both support bars and both do the job well it just depends on how much time and money you want to spend/save

Thanks for the links and for the cradle, BMT.

I may just build something along those lines. Looks like some 2 inch square tubing and a little welder time would do the job.

I will pass it along to my brother because he is the one doing all the leg work for me while I am away. And since I know that he is a lurker, "Thanks lil bro and do not get too crazy with my tools!"

[This message has been edited by BMTFIERO (edited 11-17-2010).]

Although not popular in other posts....I used my cherry picker to hold the engine/tranny and I dropped the cradle out underneath.....I thought it worked well and would do it that way again....I removed the exhaust..and then I took all the engine/tranny mount nuts off and lifted the engine/tranny about one inch up..tied up the axles...and dropped it back after I installed the new cradle...no issues at all.....but I did have to cut the front cradle bolts off, I was able to get my 4 1/2 cut off wheel between the bushing and body mount and cut them off....the rear bolts also spun on me and I had to cut an access hole ......I am restoring the car so I am already replacing the ball joints, etc...but if was a weekend fix I would have only had to replace the 4 cradle bolts/nuts and the emergency brake cables as I would have destroyed then removing them from the original cradle.......I also used this opportunity to sand everything down and apply a coat of POR-15...

I can see where the cherry picker might be a safety concern. That said, a friend did the same thing on a similar car with an engine cradle with the same results.

Thanks for the images. Pictures always help. Do those body panels have to come off or did you already have them off the car?

[This message has been edited by Super Duty Critter (edited 11-17-2010).]

It seem pretty safe to me...I never had to get under a suspended the engine...I left my floor jack in place on the rear of the cradle and place a small sissors jack on the front so it didn't drop after I cut the bolts....and luckily my cherry picker legs fit around them......I wounld not have had to take off any of the suspension or body panels to do this but I am restoring the car( I bought it in 1988)...rear suspension, brake lines is one of my winter projects...good luck...

A little help on this please. Where exactly would I need to put the jack stands to support the car while I do this cradle replacement? I'm looking at the FSM and wondering if where the factory jack is used would be where I'd put the stands.

I went under the car today to start soaking the bolts in PB Blaster. The cat and muffler are toast. The car has 100,000 miles on it. Should I drop the whole engine and trans if I have to replace that?

OK, let me ask this another way.

If this were your car and you needed to replace the cradle and the exhaust would you try doing that with it in the car or would you drop the entire assembly, fix those issues and replace the timing gear while you were there?

If it was mine I would drop the entire assembly and fix all the issues perform all the maintance on the engine while it is out. Case in point, now that I am home I am going to drop the power train to to fix the waterpump and perform other maintance on my 88 coupe. In my opinion it is just safer and less of a headache to do this way plus everything is easily accessible.

[This message has been edited by BMTFIERO (edited 11-22-2010).]