quote Originally posted by stokedbug2: Question, I am looking into doing an Ecotec swap as well. I was planing on putting a turbo on the car later on down the road, the question is with wftb's car his motor is tilted 5degrees i think he said. I know your is not tilted at all. I was wondering if you got any oil burn like he did. Because I really want to avoid buying a pump to pump the oil from the return line. And the next one is how what would be easier for some one with no car wiring skills MS or doing what wftb did and piggy back the ECMs and such. Any help would be welcome.

Some great questions there bro!

If I remember right, WFTB's motor is at a 15 degree tilt, just like it is stock in the J-bodies. I can't say if I have any oil burn because I haven't fired it up yet. It's not even in the car.

Between plans to install an oil cooler, and an external pressurized oil resivoir that will feed oil into the system when the pressure drops (to keep the turbo fed, even at engine shutdown), I shouldn't have any supply issues for the oil. If you use the proper grade oil, tap into the engine at the right point for the turbo/cooler feed, and manage the temps, the problems should be minimal.

As far as the wiring, I kinda see the stand alone system a bit easier, since there isn't any massive re-engineering to make the multiple units work with each other. But then also, making the stand alone ECM work with the car can also take some planning too. Pick your poison.

Basically, if you've got a stock motor, use a stock ECM. If you've built up the motor, like me, adjust the management accordingly.

As far as the Ecotec, the major difference is this. The stock ECM has 4 channel injector control. Megasquirt only does 2 channel, and fires 2 injectors simultaneously (just like both ECM's do with the spark plugs). The difference in performance is a slight increase in emissions using the MS, but that can be combated with other means.

I'll be able to get a bit more in-depth with this later on when I get it fired up.

However, I've said it before, and I'll say it again... follow WFTB. My method has massive flaws and kinks, but could net higher performance due to better facilitation for turbocharging.

------------------
Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli
Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class
AIMD Brunswick (2007-present)
Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007)
United States Navy

If there is one thing I've learned from this project, it's this: My dad was right when he said "You are capable of anything and everything." Happy Fathers Day.

Ladies and Gentlemen... I present to you, the newest Ecotec Fiero.



More details to come... I'll wait until everyone recovers from their heart attacks and brain anurisms that will result from this news.

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Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli
Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class
AIMD Brunswick (2007-present)
Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007)
United States Navy

[This message has been edited by fieroturbo (edited 06-17-2007).]

More DETAILS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

please

Congrats! Now down to business. The ecotec altnerator needs a 5 volt signal going to the red wire to turn it on. I tried using the 5v TPS output from megasquirt and that just upsets MS and it wont turn on. Any idea on a fix for that? I was thinking of a 6 volt bulb in series running to it but I wasnt sure what that input to the alternator can take.

I cannot wait for you to get it running, nobody else is much help to me with MS and Ecotec together lol.

quote Originally posted by doublec4: More DETAILS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! please

Well, only because you asked so nicely.

First, this is how I handled the anchor problem for the rear cradle bolts: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/083691.html

Second, here's the uber shiny pic of the motor:



Also, a closer shot of the final configuration of the lower mount.



Here's where the air will come from for the intercooler.



The plan is to get side scoops, and also make an underbody scoop, and duct the air upwards. I'll probabbly put the air filter down there too.

While I had the motor out, I wanted to do some reinforcement welding to the front cradle mounts, but looking at how close I was to the fuel lines, and the fuel tank, I thought it was a bad idea having that kind of energy near the fuel. So it will wait till I remove the fuel system.



This part amazed me... the decklid clears PERFECTLY!!! Not one bit of contact. The passenger side spring rod is VERY close, but I've been planning on going to air struts when I put the GT wing on the lid, so the rod will come off at that time.



The upper mount is nicely positioned, and it just amazes me how it clears the strut tower ever so slightly. It's position in respect with the beam below it will make for easy fabrication of the bracket.



Positioning into place...



And she's in!



It still amazes me how the motor went into the car without a single problem. Nothing scraped or hit anything. It was smoooooooth!

I also would like to point out that this topic has passed the 40,000 view mark. Very cool!!!

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Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli
Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class
AIMD Brunswick (2007-present)
Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007)
United States Navy

[This message has been edited by fieroturbo (edited 06-18-2007).]

Thats incredible work! I'm glad to see it all came together so smoothly and no clearance issues! It should be an awesome car to drive!

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quote Originally posted by Fosgatecavy98: Congrats! Now down to business. The ecotec altnerator needs a 5 volt signal going to the red wire to turn it on. I tried using the 5v TPS output from megasquirt and that just upsets MS and it wont turn on. Any idea on a fix for that? I was thinking of a 6 volt bulb in series running to it but I wasnt sure what that input to the alternator can take. I cannot wait for you to get it running, nobody else is much help to me with MS and Ecotec together lol.

Yep. Heard about that one from jbo.org. It's to control the charging circuit, I guess to prevent overcharging the battery. Simply taking a 12V line, and putting a resistor (of the proper value) in line to drop it down to 5V will work fine, but it seems to me that keeping that line on all the time is a bad idea.

I could rig an adjustable voltage detecting circuit... maybe make it trigger the line on at 12V and off at 13.5 perhaps. I'll work on a schematic for it. It shouldn't be a costly build... maybe $10 in parts.

I'd toss out a resistor value for you right now, but it's 11:30 pm, and the math part of my brain doesn't work this late. As far as a controller circuit, I'll see what I can't come up with tomorrow at work.

------------------
Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli
Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class
AIMD Brunswick (2007-present)
Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007)
United States Navy

Dear Mike,
I want to congratulate you on all of this. I was a PO3-CTM3 overseas a long time ago in Asia and we had the same interests on different cars. Keep up the good work.

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88GT ZZ4 Sequential EFI www.bigstuff3.com - 275 RWHP Dyno'd

quote Originally posted by fieroturbo: Yep. Heard about that one from jbo.org. It's to control the charging circuit, I guess to prevent overcharging the battery. Simply taking a 12V line, and putting a resistor (of the proper value) in line to drop it down to 5V will work fine, but it seems to me that keeping that line on all the time is a bad idea. I could rig an adjustable voltage detecting circuit... maybe make it trigger the line on at 12V and off at 13.5 perhaps. I'll work on a schematic for it. It shouldn't be a costly build... maybe $10 in parts. I'd toss out a resistor value for you right now, but it's 11:30 pm, and the math part of my brain doesn't work this late. As far as a controller circuit, I'll see what I can't come up with tomorrow at work.

I'm not sure what kind of alternator the Ecotec uses but I know on Fieros with Rally Pack gauges the power for the alternator field comes through a light bulb in the Rally Pack gauges.

to answer the question about the turbo oil return line ,you only need a pump if you use the stock exhaust manifold like i did .an aftermarket turbo exhaust manifold wil have the return oil line pointing down and a 5 to 15 * tilt will not upset the oil flow. on my car the oil comes out of the turbo sideways instead of down .when i did my turbo , there were not to many companies making turbo manifolds so i used the stock manifold.

*EDIT* I just retyped this entire thing because my PC sucks, and it randomly erased it!
------------
Hi guys, sorry I've been quiet. My PC had issues, and I'm also still in shock over the fact that I'm as far as I am into the project.

Battery is relocated...



main power wires are run...



fuse box is mounted...



modded the decklid vents for better flow, and less leaves getting stuck...



and it seems the A/C lines aren't far off from stock. All I need is a pipe bender.



----------
Now, if you guys noticed... there's alot of room in the front of the motor (where the stock Fiero catalytic converter used to be). It seems I have a great use for this room.

With the upper mount located where it is, I can't use the Saab 900 intercooler like I wanted. Being that I refuse to go to an air-to-water setup, I need to get air-to-air somehow. The plan is similar to the Subaru WRX STi setups, but upside down, like how some Buick GN guys to it. I'll have an intercooler where the catalytic converter used to be, and have an underbody scoop, catching the air underneath the car, and the air will vent out the decklid vents.

Best way I can think of.
----------
Current tough issues:
-Throttle cable--- I'm hoping WFTB can shed some light on this problem of mine (see his topic)
-Wastegate clearance--- yep... the thermostat housing needs to be modified yet again. The heater pipes will be bent 90 degrees to the left so the wastegate will clear them.
-Trunk wall--- I expected this, but it's another inch more that I expected. Where I need to cut is right in the middle of the cross beam that's already in there, so it will work out ok.
----------
An awesome thing to end with for this week:

The vacuum hose from the firewall to the intake manifold fits perfect... I mean PERFECT!!! I literally ran the old hose that connected to the old motor, and hooked it right onto the Ecotec... no cutting or anything! I couldn't believe it. That isn't supposed to happen... but it does. I'll get a pic next time.
----------
Well, this will be it for a little while. I'm going on leave this weekend, and work will pic back up the following weekend.

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Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli
Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class
AIMD Brunswick (2007-present)
Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007)
United States Navy

Might not ever get this coming from an Army guy again:
GO NAVY!

ahem... and now back to your regularly scheduled cross service bashing; Dang squid.
Lookin' good. So, when do you think you'll be on the road?
I'll be in Florida in August, going to pick up some parts from Roger Thelin while I'm there. Hopefully I won't PCS anytime soon, then I'll be posting a few pics myself.

p.s.

, that is all.

quote Originally posted by Fosgatecavy98: Congrats! Now down to business. The ecotec altnerator needs a 5 volt signal going to the red wire to turn it on. I tried using the 5v TPS output from megasquirt and that just upsets MS and it wont turn on. Any idea on a fix for that? I was thinking of a 6 volt bulb in series running to it but I wasnt sure what that input to the alternator can take. I cannot wait for you to get it running, nobody else is much help to me with MS and Ecotec together lol.

Fosgate, I think I have a solution. I had an epiphany while wiring the Fiero's chassis harness to the new powertrain. Perform the following procedure to confirm my theory;

Look for connector C500 in the engine bay ( click here for more info https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/084635.html ) and find pin B3, or the wire that once went to it before your swap. Fire up your engine, and let the system voltage get to where it needs to be charged, and would normally cause the regulator to turn on. Put the positive of the meter to B3, and the negative to a ground point. If my theory is right, you should read 5V on the meter, and the battery light at the gauge panel should turn on.

If this works exactly as described, C500 pin B3 should connect to that small red wire on the alternator you were talking about. No fuse neeeded BTW, as the gauge cluster fuse on the Fiero fuse box is in line on the source end of the power.

BTW, I confirmed your findings of the 5V requirement on the red wire. If the stock ECM were on the Ecotec, the 5V signal would be coming from the ECM P2 connector (black) pin 50, which is labled as "5V reference".

Let me know if this works!!!
------------------

P.S for everyone else... things are going VERY smooth with the project. I ran fuel lines, a nice chunk of the wiring is done, and I plan on testing the starter in less than a week. Some parts are needed for the smaller gauge wiring, as I'm not using stock connections between harnesses, but the large gauge, high power stuff is looking good. Photos will come mid-week.

------------------
Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli
Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class
AIMD Brunswick (2007-present)
Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007)
United States Navy

[This message has been edited by fieroturbo (edited 07-28-2007).]

quote Originally posted by Edaw 0: Dang squid. Lookin' good. So, when do you think you'll be on the road?

JUST KIDDING!!! Us Navy guys kinda like you Army fellas. Honestly, the only grudge the Navy has with anyone is the Air Force, unless there's a football game between Army and Navy, then yeah, there's a grudge there.

As far as the car moving on its own power, I'm hoping by the end of the month. As far as being street legal... um... I'll get back to you on that one.
---
Before getting to the recent pics of the project, I have some news with the car itself. I went to New Hampshire yesterday to a place I know of that usually has a Fiero or two in their yard, and they happened to have an 88 sitting around... and it had a steering rack, which I need desperately. The plan is to rebuild this one ahead of time, then when the one in the car is finally done, I can just swap this one in. The issue with mine is that the nut that holds the adjustment screw in place is stuck, so I can't tighten up the gears. This new one is out of the car, so maybe I'll be able to get more torque on it.

I also grabbed the decklid, which unlike my stock one, this has no holes in it from the luggage rack. Perfect for my GT wing. And I grabbed the tail lights, cause my stock ones have cracks in the lenses, and I didn't want to tint cracked lenses.
---
These are shots of what's going on in the hood. I installed a kill switch, and remote jump-start terminals, so once I get the battery in the tray, it can stay there, and I don't need to keep pulling the spare tire out.




I'd also like to point out that Norm's Fiberglass is bad at electrical wiring. The crimp job on the positive cable was complete crap. What's worse is that he shoved two wires into one terminal (one low amp, and the thick one for the starter). Would it have been that hard to do a separate terminal for the smaller wire? No!

To replace the one for the starter, I got a new copper terminal, filled the cup with lots of solder, and shoved the bare cable end into the cup while it was still hot, then slipped heat shrink over it. Then for the low amp one going to the relays and crap, I just put a regular crimp terminal on it. DO THIS INSTEAD NORM!!!


Notice one terminal/wire for the alternator, one for wire from the battery to the starter, and one for the positive junction box under the vent. Much cleaner... much more reliable.


The wiring is still a mess, but it's better than it was.


Here's the new location for the fuel filter.


I tried turning the motor over to prime the oil through the system, but the battery is too far gone... but the stereo works


So yeah, now that there's electrical power in the car again, I figured now is the time for the Optima Red Top to go in. That will happen Thursday probabbly.


More to come next week! Stay tuned!

------------------
Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli
Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class
AIMD Brunswick (2007-present)
Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007)
United States Navy

[This message has been edited by fieroturbo (edited 08-05-2007).]

man i was reading about your turbo ecotec project(s) before i even had my Redline. Good work on keeping your threads updated. I will probably put my stage 2 LSJ into my Fiero when i pay off the RL. thanks for being a pioneer. maybe ill pioneer Air-to-water intercooling.....

edit: you might want to look into the odyssey PC680 for weight savings over an optima red top.

[This message has been edited by fierojhu25 (edited 08-14-2007).]

Hey havent been posting alot lately. I have the problem with the alternator fixxed. 4.5v is enough to activate it. I bought a little device that reduces 12v to various settings I think used for video game consoles and stuff in campers and stuff. I hooked that up and the alternator charges. Now the problem. The alternator is in like stupid mode. When I hit the fan on it draws the motor down like an A/C compressor would on a motor thats hardly running. It takes a few seconds before the alternator catchs up. Keeping my foot on the throttle helps it, but it still uses the battery for a second while it catchs up. This is due to the 2nd wire not being used. It doesnt bother me much since with all the lights and fans going it still charges it enough. So thats taken care of, it works but not perfectly. If ur looking for perfection you got some more work

Hows the swap going? Hope you get it going.

As for the Navy stuff, I'll say this: AD2 (AW) , VX9, and USS RANGER, Desert Storm. (1989-1996)

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1988 Fiero Formula T-tops
CJB 143 of 1252 "factory T-top cars"

[This message has been edited by htexans1 (edited 08-14-2007).]

quote Originally posted by fieroturbo: Us Navy guys kinda like you Army fellas. Honestly, the only grudge the Navy has with anyone is the Air Force.

well im an AT and im going to a chair force base. am i going to have trouble?.......

[This message has been edited by americasfuture2k (edited 08-14-2007).]

quote Originally posted by fierojhu25: man i was reading about your turbo ecotec project(s) before i even had my Redline. Good work on keeping your threads updated. I will probably put my stage 2 LSJ into my Fiero when i pay off the RL. thanks for being a pioneer. maybe ill pioneer Air-to-water intercooling..... edit: you might want to look into the odyssey PC680 for weight savings over an optima red top.

Dude, if you could perfect air-to-water intercooling and get rid of the heat soak issues it normally has, you would freaking rock!

As far as the Odyssey batteries, I did look into them, but I've heard of Optima guys going through 3 different vehicles over a 10 year period, yet they still have the same Optima battery from the first one. I can't argue that kind of quality for a few pounds, and being that the battery is up front now, a few more pounds up there isn't a bad thing. Perhaps father down the road, when Odyssey has become more widespread and proven its quality, then I'll reconsider switching over.

quote Originally posted by Fosgatecavy98: Hey havent been posting alot lately. I have the problem with the alternator fixxed. 4.5v is enough to activate it. I bought a little device that reduces 12v to various settings I think used for video game consoles and stuff in campers and stuff. I hooked that up and the alternator charges. Now the problem. The alternator is in like stupid mode. When I hit the fan on it draws the motor down like an A/C compressor would on a motor thats hardly running. It takes a few seconds before the alternator catchs up. Keeping my foot on the throttle helps it, but it still uses the battery for a second while it catchs up. This is due to the 2nd wire not being used. It doesnt bother me much since with all the lights and fans going it still charges it enough. So thats taken care of, it works but not perfectly. If ur looking for perfection you got some more work

I think putting a capacitor in parallel with the 5V line (maybe a 1000uF perhaps) could help stablize that. Give my wire idea (see above) a try though. At least see if the 5VDC is coming off of that wire like I hoped.

quote Originally posted by americasfuture2k: well im an AT and im going to a chair force base. am i going to have trouble?.......

Not sure. I think some of the grudges are jealousy, like how Navy Seals are the best Spec-op group ever, and how the U-2 squadrons get to drive sports cars to guide their planes in during landing, or how Air Force guys are paid extra if they have to be on a Navy base, etc. I'm guessing you're going to Tinker AFB, and the E-6 TACAMO's have been there for awhile, so I'm sure they're all cool with each other and stuff. If I go back to O-level, I'm considering crossing over to them instead of going back to P-3's.

quote Originally posted by htexans1: Hows the swap going? Hope you get it going. As for the Navy stuff, I'll say this: AD2 (AW) , VX9, and USS RANGER, Desert Storm. (1989-1996)

Nice resume shipmate! Heck of a list to have on your record. Bravo Zulu!
---
As far as the swap status... um, it goes like this: There's good news, horrible news, bad news, and some good news about the horrible news.

The good news is, I don't need to cut into the trunk wall to fit the turbo in. I started thinking 3D, and realized "Hey, I have some vertical room above the turbo... let's use it!".

I drew a little illustration to give a general idea of how the 90 degree bend needs to be.

Not very hard to fabricate. I'm wishing I got a mandrell bend manifold rather than a log style though. It would make this work a little better. It could still happen down the road.

Now the horrible news. The motor is seized. The bad news, the starter motor is fried. The good news about the horrible news, I know exactly why it won't move.

It seems there's some confusion between some Ecotec guide books. Apparently, if you're using bolts instead of studs on the main's, the torque needs to be lower. Either that, or the Ecotec Performance Handbook (with the orange cover) has a nasty typo.

Either way, this is the fix, and it's not too difficult:

1. Finish the upper engine mount, so the engine stays put.
2. Put a brace between the strut towers to suspend the tranny.
3. Drop the back half of the cradle and swing it down.
4. Drop the oil pan.
5. Put stands under the flywheel and the crank pulley (to ensure the crank stays in).
6. Remove the main girdle.
7. Inspect the crank, and relube the bearings (over-torquing probabbly sqeezed out the old lube).
8. Reinstall girdle to PROPER specs.
9. Toss everything else back the way it was.
10. Have everyone call me a dumb@$$, cause I should have caught an error like this months ago.

So this weekend, I'm going to crunch down on the upper engine mount, and then next weekend, I'll fix the crank issue. Somewhere in between, I'll track down a new starter.

------------------
Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli
Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class
AIMD Brunswick (2007-present)
Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007)
United States Navy

[This message has been edited by fieroturbo (edited 08-14-2007).]

quote Originally posted by americasfuture2k: well im an AT and im going to a chair force base. am i going to have trouble?.......

Man, I was rooting for you guys until you insulted us Air Force folks. BTW, my chair has been to Baghdad.

[This message has been edited by Hudini (edited 08-14-2007).]

quote Originally posted by Hudini: Man, I was rooting for you guys until you insulted us Air Force folks. BTW, my chair has been to Baghdad.

Oh lighten up, we're just kidding around. Alot of us Navy guys are just jealous cause all the hot women join the Air Force.

I was actually supposed to go to the desert too, but my flight surgeon is an idiot, and held me back cause of my chest pains in late 05-early 06. After that problem was gone, I wanted to volunteer for some non-combatant roles (assisting engineers) they desperately needed people for, but my last blood test said my liver readings weren't good, and now my chest pains are back, so I don't know if they'll let me go now, and I'm kinda pissed about it. And recently, I screwed up my left leg.

I'm hoping they can heal me up within the next 6 months, which is when I might have another chance to get out there.

------------------
Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli
Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class
AIMD Brunswick (2007-present)
Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007)
United States Navy
-------------------


EDIT: Like I said, all the hot chicks are in the Air Force:

[This message has been edited by fieroturbo (edited 08-14-2007).]

Forgot to add the smiley face as my comments were totally tongue-in-cheek. My bad.

That last pic was cool. I dropped 4 of those Mk-84's each night. The chick was off-limits, of course.......

Looking good (the car ) Almost got everything together to get mine started...just need a clutch, wiring harness, megasquirt box, a hoist (don't think I know anybody with one ), and some damn BOLTS to bolt up the alternator and transmission.

[QUOTE]

EDIT: Like I said, all the hot chicks are in the Air Force

[QUOTE/]

that they are! so are the army gals. i have a friend i met back at one of the many parties i had before i joined, just back into contact with her. and this whole time i knew her, shes been in the army and didnt even know! army, af, and the mc have the good lookin ladies. i havent seen that many in the navy. maybe like 4 haha.

[This message has been edited by americasfuture2k (edited 08-23-2007).]

Let me add one thing about the Air Force: Find the crew chiefs.

Those are some beautiful ecotec fieros, guys. I'm glad some guys out there have the intrepidity to forge ahead on new ground like this. Also, as an Army guy, my favorite stories from my favorite sergeant were from when he was PO first class on a destroyer. All us proud army snobs would always ask the sarge for more 'navy stories' any time there was down time. Something about being on a boat on the high seas makes a story seem more adventuresome... I say hooah to any serviceman or servicwoman. Especially to ones like the lady straddling that bomb...

------------------
If you can't be good, be good at it.

[This message has been edited by fierodeletre (edited 08-23-2007).]

ya, im at tinker now. i checked in on tuesday. still in the process. because of my vette accident, im workin the barracks since i cant really do anything in my shop. cant be around any chems, cant lift anything. and i dont remember what i learned in a school. i flipped my vette the day i graduated my a school i was told. i lost my memory from the accident. im here at tinker for my med review n discharge and to be with family since i grew up here.

haha hudini, i have friends in all branches. im just jokin when i say all this. cant really show emotions online, oh well.

Dang, the military really came out in this thread. Any reps from the Marines and Coast Guard?

quote Originally posted by fieroturbo:

HA HA! I'll have to save that one, his moustache is out of regs though.

Bummer about the problems, but it sounds like you got everything under control. I picked up some parts from Roger Thelin, top notch stuff, and bolting an Eco to my car should be no problem. I think I'll be going to Korea soon, so I'm trying to decide: get a motor and transmisson now, put them in the car and roll it (minus axles of course) into storage, or roll it as is into storage (minus axles of course), with the parts on the side. Then deal with the electrical when I get back.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by fieroturbo:
[IMG]EDIT: Like I said, all the hot chicks are in the Air Force: *hot pic*[QUOTE]
True. I loved walking around Osan AB during the summer.

Any progress? BUMP

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If you can't be good, be good at it.

bump.. err, bounce.

Anything new?

Bump from an Army vet who bought his 1984 Fiero SE brand new off the lot while stationed at Ft. Campbell, KY! Yes, I still have it; sad as it looks!

http://custom.autos.yahoo.c...oGmGiobgPB6rqW7MdscF

When this project is done and a parts list published, gues what's next for me, eh!

Hey guys! Sorry about the silence. I've been through some medical issues lately, but I'm fighting them hard.

Made AWESOME progress with the upper mounting bracket:










The bracket isn't 100% finished yet, but at this point, it can definitely hold the engine up when I drop the cradle. I removed the mount and stood on the bracket with all of my body weight (200lbs) and it held up just fine.

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Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli
Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class
AIMD Brunswick (2007-present)
Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007)
United States Navy

Looks good & get well soon.

Upper mount is 100% finished, minus paint.

------------------
Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli
Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class
AIMD Brunswick (2007-present)
Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007)
United States Navy

BUMP because I love the idea of an ecotec in a fiero, this is one of my favorite threads and I can't wait to see it completed.

Hope you're feeling better and keep up the good work!

Looking good, what's new?

Sorry that there's been no new stuff guys. Something is always coming up, and I need a good solid 3 day period (Fri, Sat, Sun) to do this next part, or it costs me big $$$ to leave the car hanging on the lift.

Here's hoping for next weekend. Happy new year!

------------------
Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli
Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class
AIMD Brunswick (2007-present)
Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007)
United States Navy

Hey guys! I have good news, and bad news.

The good news is, the upper engine mount and the mount adapter are installed, and fit PERFECTLY!



The bad news is that something is still snagging the crank. I've got a new starter in there and it had no effect, so the stock one wasn't the issue, but I did burn it out trying to turn over the engine. It's not the main bearings (properly torqued btw), it's not the cams (which I have under-torqued), and loosening the timing chain didn't help, so it's either the rod bearings (which are properly torqued), or the pistons are slightly seized from the 90+ degree drop in temperature over the last few months. So I've had the car in a warm shop since Friday, and I put marvel mystery oil in the combustion chambers on monday hoping it will seep in around the piston rings and penetrate them a bit.

If none of this works, at least it's extremely easy to work on this engine while it's in the car. This oil pan is a structural piece, and with the lower engine mount attaching to it, I was worried that I would have to drop the cradle to get it off, but I found that if I unbolt the mount, then lift up the passenger side of the motor, I have plenty of room to get it off, then if I lower it back down, and let the upper mount hold the weight, and I can do any kind of work on the bottom end, minus removing the crank.





Wish me luck tomorrow.

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Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli
Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class
AIMD Brunswick (2007-present)
Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007)
United States Navy

I WAS going to make a technical observation...but I totally forgot what I was going to say...