Pending completion of the Megasquirt this week, ALL ECM-TO-ENGINE WIRING IS COMPLETE, AND ENGINE SHOULD FIRE UP THIS WEEKEND!!!
Pics from this weekend will be up tomorrow.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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12:45 AM
May 28th, 2009
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
The V6 throttle cable is installed... it didn't take too long, but it sucked taking apart the ENTIRE center section. I'll spare you guys the horrors of the damaged skeleton piece and just show the engine side of things.
And now, I present to you the new ECM Black and White connectors:
Here's the sensor wiring... a bit more organized than before:
And here's the ignition module all wired up, minus the coils:
I was going to use the stock Ecotec coil pack minus the stock Ecotec ignition module, but it's going to be too big a headache right now, so I'm going to slap the stock Fiero coils on the 2.2 OHV ignition module, and use MSD wires to connect the coils to the plugs for now. If the setup works well, I'll probabbly just use the "Ecotec 2.2" plastic piece to hold the wires down, then upgrade to MSD coils. ----- Anywho, as soon as I'm finished building the megasquirt, which could be tomorrow, this should be ready to fire up.
Stay tuned.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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10:42 PM
May 29th, 2009
americasfuture2k Member
Posts: 7131 From: Edmond, Oklahoma Registered: Jan 2006
wow, looking good AT2. troubleshooting a ECM swap is a real pain without a O-scope. my car was down for about 8 months because of a crank sensor. me being a AT-I, that sorta thing hurts when it was something like that all along. i kept rebuilding my harness over and over. swapping ECMs. its done and im onto tuning now. how easy do you think it is going to be for tuning with the MS? ive always been kinda curious on the MS.
wow, looking good AT2. troubleshooting a ECM swap is a real pain without a O-scope. my car was down for about 8 months because of a crank sensor. me being a AT-I, that sorta thing hurts when it was something like that all along. i kept rebuilding my harness over and over. swapping ECMs. its done and im onto tuning now. how easy do you think it is going to be for tuning with the MS? ive always been kinda curious on the MS.
Thanks. I'll probabbly use an O-scope at some point for the ignition module... I'm sure I'll run into some kind of problem with it, but other than that, I've been labeling all the wires, and keeping track of where they're going to now via cross-reference sheets I'm making with Excel on my PDA phone.
Once I get a baseline set in MS, it'll be downhill from there and just a matter of playing with it to find what works best. I'm taking baby steps with this so I don't mess anything up.
quote
Originally posted by Fosgatecavy98:
You seem to have alot more wiring than me, or atleast it looks like that....
There's still alot of excess stuff I won't be using that I still need to get rid of, but alot of the rats nest you see there is just tangles I haven't worked on yet.
In all honesty, I'm eliminating wiring: The stock ECM connectors were 2x 24-pin connectors, and I've worked that down to 2x 12-pin connectors.
Also, the new C500 will be reduced as I don't have Cruise Control, so I'm just going to cap-and-stow those wires away, and the rear lights will be on a separate connector, cause frankly, I can't understand why they'd put those wires on C500 anyway... really, they could be hard-wired.
Up until today, I was dead-set on using the MS Relay Box, but after looking at the big picture, there's really no reason to, and I'd have to jump through hoops to patch the IAC and ignition through it, so the new white-black connectors will be connecting to the DB-37 connector directly on the MS now, and in that harness between DB37 and White/Black will be where the bypass relay will be for the ICM.
Saddly, I won't be firing things up this weekend, as I'm still waiting on my plug wires, but I'll be cleaining up some more of the wiring, and also installing the vacuum lines, and fuel vapor canister.
Stay tuned!
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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10:17 PM
Jun 1st, 2009
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
And I relocated the new terminal block so it's out of the elements a bit more.
I took the fuel vapor canister out to remove the fuse/relay box so I could get to the terminal block better, incase anyone is wondering what happened to it.
That's pretty much all that happened this weekend.
Also, after doing some research, I need to install TWO temperature switches in addition to the existing coolant temp sensor, otherwise I'll have no temp warning light, and the fan would have to be manually controlled; though I will be installing a manual switch, I'd like an automatic function too. I'm trying to figure out whether or not I need to get an adapter pipe in line with the coolant hoses for the additional switches, or maybe I can install them in the fittings in the head that are plugged. Not sure on that one yet.
I'm still brainstorming the exhaust... but I don't need that to be completed before the first firing of the engine.
That's all for now.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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11:13 PM
Jun 2nd, 2009
Eau_Rouge Member
Posts: 208 From: Ontario, Canada Registered: Jan 2007
Michael, awesome project! Your craftsmanship and attention to detail are top notch. In my opinion, your creating the fiero that GM should have created in the first place - definitely my favorite build on this forum.
Question, have you thought about intercooling? Are you planning air to air or air to water or a combination of both.
Myself, I am planning a turbo Ecotec build starting with an LSJ and converting it to high pressure turbo. I'm planning on using the LSJ's water/air intercooler by mounting a heat exchanger up front and maybe (don't know if this will work) adding an air to air intercooler and placing it by where the catalitic converter is on a V6 fiero and scooping air from undernneath...just an idea for now but hopefully I can get some data showing that it will work.
Great project - can't wait to see it completed!
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12:32 AM
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
Michael, awesome project! Your craftsmanship and attention to detail are top notch. In my opinion, your creating the fiero that GM should have created in the first place - definitely my favorite build on this forum.
Question, have you thought about intercooling? Are you planning air to air or air to water or a combination of both.
Myself, I am planning a turbo Ecotec build starting with an LSJ and converting it to high pressure turbo. I'm planning on using the LSJ's water/air intercooler by mounting a heat exchanger up front and maybe (don't know if this will work) adding an air to air intercooler and placing it by where the catalitic converter is on a V6 fiero and scooping air from undernneath...just an idea for now but hopefully I can get some data showing that it will work.
Great project - can't wait to see it completed!
Thanks for the compliments man! I've seen so many projects that look too much like a frankenstein monster, and I think it's worth the effort to make things look like they're meant to be there... especially come time for the state inspection. If it looks stock, they'll probabbly think it is stock.
For the LSJ's water-to-air intercooler, I'm not so sure that's a great model of efficiency. I think a better setup to go with is the 2.4L VVT engine, and just turbocharge that. Some Solstice guys are doing that with better results than the turbo 2.0L, and honestly, I've driven several cars with the 2.4L, and it's got more pep than some V6's out there, including the stock V6 Fiero.
Mounting an intercooler in the stock cat location is exactly what I was planning on doing. I think I mentioned a few pages back that that's what alot of Buick Grand National guys are doing with their intercoolers; basically mounting them low to the ground and using undercar airflow... I honestly don't understand why more companies don't do it like that stock... in a rainstorm, you're basically getting a free watersprayer on the intercooler, and the airflow under the car is alot more predictable so far as I know.
I did alot of measuring awhile back, and I found an air-to-air intercooler that would fit perfect. The "top" of the intercooler, which is actually the back of the intercooler in this case, should fit perfectly on the little "lip" on the front of the engine cradle, then you'd just need to screw some shock mounts into the firewall near the bottom. I saved a link on my favorites on my home PC; I'll post it later.
I considered air-to-water intercooling, but heat soak is an issue with those sometimes. Considering this will be a highway car for my 45 minute college commute next year, and I'll be running the car on hydrogen in the future, a heat soaked heat exchanger is a very bad thing.
Also, it's so easy to attach a CO2 sprayer to an intercooler, for times when I'm not cruising, I can have a temperature activated CO2 sprayer if the intake charge gets too hot from lack of airflow through the intercooler, in addition to the alcohol injection I'll be using from the get go.
I won't be installing an intercooler to start off... at 7 psi from a T4 compressor, I don't see the point. I'd like to work on just getting it running off the wastegate alone for now, rather than that plus a boost controller. When I go to 12psi, I'll install an intercooler.
Some other stuff with my boost settings; As I mentioned awhile back, my calculations put the peak compressor efficiency between 7 and 12 psi, so my settings will be as follows:
7psi with 91-93 octane: no alcohol injection 12psi with 91-93 octane: alcohol injection with leaner fuel mixture 12psi with E85-E100 ethanol: no alcohol injection with leaner fuel mixture and advanced ignition timing 12psi with Natual Gas: TBD 12+psi with Hydrogen: alcohol injection, leaner fuel mixture and advanced ignition timing.
I haven't done alot of research into Natural Gas because I just assumed I'd jump from ethanol to hydrogen, but I'd like to try natural gas for experimental purposes. Where I'm from in Pennsylvania, hydrogen is VERY easy to get, because I live near Air Products Inc... one of the top industrial gas manufacturers. In fact, they're en-route to the college I'm going to, so I can get a new tank on the way back from school every day! I intend on doing that conversion as a senior project. The hydrogen will require more boost from the turbo though to get the same power levels as the other fuels, but then again, that's why I prepped the motor to handle 30psi
Also too, I don't think I'll be able to go too far with hydrogen till I get the ceramic coated head installed, cause hydrogen is very sensitive to hot spots in the combustion chamber, most commonly the intake valves, thus why I'll need alcohol injection until I do that head swap, but the alchol injection prevents that whole zero-emissions goal with hydrogen
Note: When you burn hydrogen, because there's nitrogen in air, nitrous-oxide will still be coming out of the tailpipe (which will mostly be taken care of by the cat), but no carbon emissions will. If I used Brown's Gas, then it would be 100% zero-emissions because it's just oxygen and hydrogen only being burned.
Whew... my brain hurts now.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
[This message has been edited by fieroturbo (edited 06-02-2009).]
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10:11 AM
Jun 7th, 2009
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
Not too much progress this week. Friday was fubar, had to work Saturday, and was to tired on Sunday from working Saturday.
Also too, I found out that my Megasquirt had 2 extra 22uf caps, but lacked the 2 4.7uf caps I needed, so I'll need those before this will work.
Here's my DB-37 to ECM White/Black adapter harness. The relay in this harness is for the ICM Bypass while cranking. Another relay may need to get added for the cooling fan to work... I need to read into that some more. I'm not sure if the FIdle port grounds out the line, or applies voltage. Worst case scenario, I'll just have the fan controlled by a thermal switch just like the temp warning light. I'll be installing a temp switch in the Ecotec's head at one of the coolant ports by the EGR tube.
You may ask "Why not just attach the DB-37 in place of the old ECM connectors?" and the answer is because of the relay and other extra goodies (like the knock sensor module) connected to that adapter harness; if I need to drop the engine, I'd prefer to keep the extra goodies in the car. Plus, I'm not sure the DB-37 will fit through the firewall hole.
Some of the goodies include the shift and service engine lights, which will be functioning with this setup. The 3 leds on the MS are for monitoring "Injector Pulse", "Warmup Enrichment", and "Acceleration Enrichment", but with a few mods, it will be "Injector Pulse", "Service Engine", and "Shift Up". They'll patch out through the DB-37 into a 3rd White/Black connector later on (so will the knock sensor), then into C203.
So far as I know, the stock shift light worked via the ECM comparing throttle position with RPM's; basically matching throttle % with RPM % more or less. I could also work off of the "Acceleration Enrichment" deal, and basically light up the shift light when there's no acceleration enrichment going on above 1500 RPM's.
The service engine light will turn on whenever any parameters are way off, i.e. detonation sensed, A/F ratio outside of stoich, a sensor maxed out, etc. It'll be impressive to see that thing turn on when I unplug a sensor.
And finally, an action pic of me putting the Megasquirt together:
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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09:46 PM
PFF
System Bot
Jun 8th, 2009
americasfuture2k Member
Posts: 7131 From: Edmond, Oklahoma Registered: Jan 2006
ECM harness is 100% complete. New C500 will be done on Tuesday. All those wires are mapped out, I just need to put pins on them.
After thinking over things some more, I'm linking the oil cooler and radiator fans to engage at the same time (2 separate relays though), that way I don't need to worry about an oil temp sensor, and I can just do one switch for both when I want to manually engage them.
I've also got things wired up to accept a blower to get hot air out of the engine bay via the right side decklid vent. I'll have that manually switched on inside the cabin, but I'll have it pre-wired to run off an adjustable thermostat later on.
I'll throw pics on here on Tuesday... just do them all in one shot.
quote
Originally posted by americasfuture2k:
so thats what my job looks like. neat. too bad ill never see that. oh well
Huh? You're a solder tech too?
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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01:23 AM
Eau_Rouge Member
Posts: 208 From: Ontario, Canada Registered: Jan 2007
Where does one buy replacement pins for the harness connectors - curcuit city? Are all pins the same - generic? ...I would also rather build a wiring harness from scratch rather than solder one together.
Thanks
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10:20 PM
Jun 20th, 2009
DaveVQ30DEK Junior Member
Posts: 1 From: Daytona Beach, FL Registered: Sep 2008
Hope all is good, I just sent you a text message in case you were wondering who that was.
I can't wait to see this thing finished and running, it'll be worth it in the end trust me, just keep at it. I regret starting projects on the maxima sometimes but I always finish and the smile you get makes it all worth it.
For anyone who doesn't know, I rode in this car back in High school about 10 years ago, its been a very very very long time.
In case you didn't hear mike I sold the maxima cause the now EX-GF made me choose car or her....:sigh:....it was a bad decision (A word to the wise, never pick woman over your car, seriously, unless your married). I'm thinking about getting a S/C LSJ car (since I'm a Saturn kind of guy). Email me or call me sometime, I'm moving to orlando next month.
[This message has been edited by DaveVQ30DEK (edited 06-20-2009).]
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04:24 PM
Jun 21st, 2009
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
I'm running into a problem again with the starter not tuning the crank... but this time, the solenoid isn't getting the gear onto the flywheel, so I think it's electrical this time... possibly the battery, maybe just a loose terminal somewhere. I'll find out tomorrow.
I also discovered that you can't run a temperature gauge and the ECM temperature input on one sensor. Whoops! I did discover though that the stock fiero temp gauge sensor and switch for the overtemp light are one unit, so I'm just going to get a new one of those for that. Thing is, no one makes an adapter for a M12 x 1.75mm hole to 3/8" sensor, so I'll either need to get one custom made, or get an inline sensor mount for the coolant hose.
Now for some pics:
The ECM/C203 harness is 100% complete, and installed. Just need to tidy things a bit, that's all.
ECM harness installed, along with the MSD plug wires:
The new C500 connector:
The new C500 installed. I don't have a mounting bracket made yet, but it will be mounting to the bottom of the shift cable bracket.
quote
Originally posted by Eau_Rouge:
Where does one buy replacement pins for the harness connectors - curcuit city? Are all pins the same - generic? ...I would also rather build a wiring harness from scratch rather than solder one together.
Thanks
Circuit City is out of business... not to mention they're not an auto parts store.
As far as connectors for sensors, everything is generic GM stuff that's used on almost all GM cars to this day, and is very easy to get... But, if you need replacement pins for the big ones, like C500, C203, and the ECM black and white connectors, I'm pretty certain GM doesn't make them anymore. The only solution is to snatch a connector of a junk car, and steal some pins off of that, which is what I need to do for my C203 connector in the center console. The firewall junction I salvaged off another car was from one without A/C, so I have nothing in the A/C relay pin spot on my C203.
For the most part, this is a harness being built from scratch... I'm ditching the stock GM connectors (except C203) and using ones that I can get new pins for if I should ever need to.
quote
Originally posted by DaveVQ30DEK:
Hey Mike, its Dave
Hope all is good, I just sent you a text message in case you were wondering who that was.
I can't wait to see this thing finished and running, it'll be worth it in the end trust me, just keep at it. I regret starting projects on the maxima sometimes but I always finish and the smile you get makes it all worth it.
For anyone who doesn't know, I rode in this car back in High school about 10 years ago, its been a very very very long time.
In case you didn't hear mike I sold the maxima cause the now EX-GF made me choose car or her....:sigh:....it was a bad decision (A word to the wise, never pick woman over your car, seriously, unless your married). I'm thinking about getting a S/C LSJ car (since I'm a Saturn kind of guy). Email me or call me sometime, I'm moving to orlando next month.
Sorry to hear dude. I thought you were going to upstate NY, not farther south in Florida.
Saturn + LSJ = Saturn Ion Redline. Go for it! I just got a Saturn Aura to replace the Bimmer... LOOOOOVE IT! Way better than the Bimmer ever was.
More updates tomorrow hopefully!
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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12:16 AM
americasfuture2k Member
Posts: 7131 From: Edmond, Oklahoma Registered: Jan 2006
sure am, well i was supposed to be. had my wreck when i gradded in p-cola and i was supposed to go to 2M solder tech school in jax. i kick my self in the ass a lot for racing and flipping my vette then ending up in the hospital for a few months. i missed out on such an opertunity. *kick*
Like I said above... I'm never gonna get this thing running.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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07:39 PM
Feb 13th, 2010
tjm4fun Member
Posts: 3781 From: Long Island, NY USA Registered: Feb 2006
Well if it isn't a loose connection or a bad cable, then your battery is shot. I think it is the later, as lose connections generally don;t creep the voltage back up like the guage was showing.the guage dropping to 12v after recovery form the first shot says bad cell to me, but there are a number of internal battery faults that can act that way. (and with my luck with batteries I've seen them all)
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12:02 PM
Mar 5th, 2010
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
I bypassed the cables for the battery relocation and just did some shorties and stuck the battery under the car to see if it all worked this time, and it did. I'm getting over 9.5V while cranking, which is what I need.
Now the problem is communication between the Megasquirt and the Ignition Module. I'm getting spark, believe it or not! The tachometer on the dash is even acknowledging it! But Megasquirt just isn't seeing it for some reason. It's only reading 0 RPM on the computer, which means the fuel pump and injectors won't kick over, meaning no sucksquishbangblow.
Then I tried changing some of the trigger wheel settings to see if something there was fubar, and I'm thinking it was, cause now the computer is in stupid mode: the indicator lights blink dimmly, and all the gauges on the screen are red. Something went wrong. I need to reflash the firmware and start over.
Hopefully I'll be bringing good news this time tomorrow.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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07:57 PM
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
This is one of the longest threads that I've seen where the engine has not started yet - six years so far - Keep at it. I'd like to read some day that the engine build is complete, and the car moves under its own power. I admire your perserverence
[This message has been edited by topcat (edited 03-06-2010).]
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05:45 AM
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
Yeah, it's long... Too long. This should have been running years ago.
It's like John Wayne said: "Life is tough, and it's even tougher when you're stupid!"
I fit in that stupid category. I don't know why the hell I even started this freakin' project in the first place. I doubt I'll get it running. Both of my Megasquirts are fried now, so there's no point of me even working on the car today.
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08:11 AM
joshua riedl Member
Posts: 1426 From: watertown wi USA Registered: Jan 2004
I haven't read the whole thread and don't know why you tried megasquirt but if it's going that badly I think you should go to a factory computer. Give Alvin at pcmforless.com a call and get this thing going. A new computer, wiring harness and $150 tune and it'll run. Sounds like you're too close to quit at the last minute.
Yeah, do not give up now. The definaition of a hero versus a zero, is that a hero picks himself up AFTER failing. A zero stays on the ground, never wanting to get up. We all fail, and I know I speak for all Fiero owners world-wide, that we are awaiting your completion of this anticipated swap. I forsee the demand for this swap to be so large, you may have to open up a garage!
Cordially, Kevin
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02:59 PM
Isolde Member
Posts: 2504 From: North Logan, Utah, USA Registered: May 2008
Yeah, do not give up now. The definaition of a hero versus a zero, is that a hero picks himself up AFTER failing. A zero stays on the ground, never wanting to get up. We all fail, and I know I speak for all Fiero owners world-wide, that we are awaiting your completion of this anticipated swap. I forsee the demand for this swap to be so large, you may have to open up a garage!
Cordially, Kevin
I agree with Kevin, on every point in the above quote.
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06:45 PM
Isolde Member
Posts: 2504 From: North Logan, Utah, USA Registered: May 2008
If need a break then put it on the shelf for a while, who knows one day you may feel the same way you did when you started this build. Like many others, I hope you finish it. This is definitely one of my favorite threads and as such, I would love to one day see this thing running...your setup is my ideal for a fiero.
Good luck!
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07:01 PM
Mar 13th, 2010
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
No luck this weekend. I did some signal monitoring, and using the "Engine Simulator Board" for Megasquirt, I found that 400RPM's equals 13Hz on the High Reference line of the Ignition module... I'm getting that on the output of the ignition module... sort of. It's kinda jumping around a bit, from 74Hz down to 3Hz. Not good. I've got another ignition module on order, and it should get here by Thursday. This coming weekend is my last shot at this before I move back to PA, so it's get it running now, or pretty much wait till summer.
quote
Originally posted by joshua riedl:
I haven't read the whole thread and don't know why you tried megasquirt but if it's going that badly I think you should go to a factory computer. Give Alvin at pcmforless.com a call and get this thing going. A new computer, wiring harness and $150 tune and it'll run. Sounds like you're too close to quit at the last minute.
Stock ECM is out of the question. I have about 20 reasons why, but the lack of being able to tune it on my own is reason enough. I want to be able to explore alternative fuels without having to send the ECM in every time to get reflashed.
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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04:18 PM
Mar 14th, 2010
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
I read your first page today, and your last page to day. From a old seabee, ( me ) you are doing good work. BUT remember KISS. you air plane people loose sight of that! When you get it to run and drive, DRIVE IT. You deseve it. get a car to work on that doesn't take you to school. School hell, this project has given you a education that you couldn't buy at any cost! Don't give up. I have had a 2.5,3.0,3.8,5.7, and a 305 in my fiero over 11 years. Once you get the drivablity worked out you should have a fun car. It took me a year to do my v8 swap, and I thought that was slow. I have some vids on "youtube". "chevy V8 fiero-4" is my build book for the v8 car. "fiero heater box fire" is a good one for you to watch if your car sat out side for a long time. I could save your car. F.W.Hall BU-1 USN 1968 to 1990. SEABEE for ever. son of a blue water sailer, WWII
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01:02 PM
Mar 15th, 2010
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
I've been lucky with the heater box thing. When I first bought the car in 2000 it had nothing in the vent there when I looked in it. Since then, my driveway in PA is tree-free, and in Maine the parking lot is much of the same. I do have to take off that plastic cover anyway, cause mine's kinda warped, so I'll be digging in there before I get the center console back together.
Reading from start to finish, I'm sure a few pics are gone or have turned into a tuna salad (literally). I'm going through a server change and going back to my old URL of fieroturbo.com. I'll work on that this summer, and it will basically be what's here on this thread, but better organized. Suprememotorsports.com is getting taken down, primarily cause the host has a billing department run by morons, but also because I just don't have it in me to run a small business like I planned to... kinda makes a URL like that pointless.
And yeah... us airplane people do overthink things... but working on P-3's like I have, I have a valid excuse; those things are insanely complex, and no two are exactly alike. Problem is, they've taken up so much of my time to keep them in the air, it's caused alot of delays on the project. And being that I don't have a garage of my own in Maine, I'm limited to the base's auto shop's hours. Thankfully, I'm going back to PA soon, where I have my own garage, on my own time, and I'm not doing squat from May until September, so starting late April, I'LL BE ABLE TO WORK ON THIS ON A DAILY BASIS FINALLY!!!
But yeah, if she's still not making noise by the end of next weekend, I'll be getting the parking brake back together to trailer it home, and getting the engine working is going to be on hold till I get settled back in PA again. I really hope this new ignition module does the trick
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
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12:11 AM
Mar 19th, 2010
fieroturbo Member
Posts: 1085 From: Orefield, PA Registered: Jan 2003
I should nickname this "The Warthog" after the sounds it's making.
Gonna mess with the fuel settings, and check the injector wiring tomorrow... hopefully with better results
------------------ Petty Officer Michael C Casaceli Aircraft Electronics Technician Second Class AIMD Brunswick (2007-present) Patrol Squadron Ten (2003-2007) United States Navy
[This message has been edited by fieroturbo (edited 03-19-2010).]