I'm just starting my conversion and, as I expected, I'm running into issues with parts.
The only sleeves I can get with the right ID for the struts are 6" long.
What I'm wondering, then, is whether to go with a 10" spring or a 12" spring, as most of the combos seem to be 5" sleeve/12" spring or 7" sleeve/10" spring...
Car is a stock '85 SE 2M6.
------------------ The Madscanner
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08:56 AM
Aug 2nd, 2008
RCR Member
Posts: 4416 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
I'm just starting my conversion and, as I expected, I'm running into issues with parts.
The only sleeves I can get with the right ID for the struts are 6" long.
What I'm wondering, then, is whether to go with a 10" spring or a 12" spring, as most of the combos seem to be 5" sleeve/12" spring or 7" sleeve/10" spring...
What struts are you using??? I'm using KYB struts from Summit with the 7" x 2"id Monroe style perches from Speedway Motors. Springs are 12" 300# QA1s also from Summit. I just purchased all of the pieces within the last 6 weeks, so it should be available.
I'm using Monroes as my base - it's what I could get (here in the UK) at a reasonable price.
The sleeves were an impossibly tight fit - wouldn't go on until I stripped the paint off the struts!
------------------ The Madscanner
'85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.
Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), getting some 15" lace alloys and some more useful rubber, am also looking at converting the rear struts to proper coilovers (just 'cause I fancy another project!).
Looking for any useful suggestions for a problem with my DIY coilovers.
The fit of the sleeves on the struts is so tight that I had to strip the paint in order to get them to slide on.
I then tried sliding a sleeve on - it went most of the way down without any problem, then stuck, as you can see in the 2nd picture. And I do mean STUCK - I didn't use any force putting it on, but I can't now get it off (so that I can file the strut down slightly for more clearance).
I've tried getting some silicone spray lubricant in behind the sleeve, but no luck.
I'm reluctant to hammer downward (or upwards) on the locking rings in case I ruin the alloy threads.
Any ideas?
------------------ The Madscanner
'85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.
Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), new wheels and rubber, as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.
If the sleeve is stuck, try heating the sleeve with either a plumber propane torch, or perhaps a hair dryer.
The aluminum sleeve will expand faster and more that the steel strut. And the sleeve should loosen up to the point where you can tap it off with a soft faced mallet, or maybe pull it off with a leather glove.
I hope this proves helpful.
~Bob
------------------ "Its nice to be important. Its more important to be nice."
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01:53 PM
RCR Member
Posts: 4416 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
I'll try to get it off and then prep the barrel of the strut a bit more.
I have realised that where the part number is stamped into the barrel, the edges of the characters are raised slightly - just enough to reduce the clearance. If I can get the sleeve off, I can file down the edges, then the sleeve should slide right down.
Ciao!
------------------ The Madscanner
'85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.
Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), new wheels and rubber, as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.
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07:12 PM
Gto1966 Member
Posts: 270 From: GreenPond, Alabama Registered: Nov 2003
The other sleeve is smooth so, making an assumption here, the stuck one is OK.
I've got a few suggestions and, hopefully, I'll have some time over the weekend to sort it out.
Ciao!
------------------ The Madscanner
'85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.
Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), new wheels and rubber, as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.
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05:04 AM
RCR Member
Posts: 4416 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
Got the sleeve back off the strut - used the propane torch method.
Will now take the circumferance of the strut down slightly, then should be good to go!
Ciao!
------------------ The Madscanner
'85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.
Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), new wheels and rubber, as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.
A little off topic, but what was the reason front coil overs are not practical? I was thinking you could box in the lower control arm from a picture but I'm nowhere near a car that I could look at for other possible clearance problems that would need to be dealt with.
Check out Formula88's post at the beginning of page 6...
------------------ '85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.
Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), new wheels and rubber, as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.
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06:08 AM
whodeanie Member
Posts: 3819 From: woodstock,Ga.,USA Registered: Jan 2008
has anyone used the coil-over kit from Fiero addiction? it looks the same as held just not quite as much money. I would like to get somthing ordered soon so any feedback would be great. here is the link to what I am talking about http://www.fieroaddiction.c...20_22&products_id=56
Slghtly O/t, but I've noticed that the kits available Stateside have a single adjusting ring with grub screws to lock, whereas all of the kits I've seen over here use an adjusting ring and a lock ring.
Comments, e.g. what is the likelihood of two rings locked slipping against the likelihood of the grub screws damaging the threads on the sleeves?
Interested in your views.
------------------ '85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, original Tech alloys, component speakers instead of the 4x10s.
Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), new wheels and rubber, as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.
Is there really any benefit to having the shock inboard to the spring? It seems all you would need is the adjustable collar underneath, between the a-arm and the spring, and leave the shock to the side. - Boxing the a-arm was my first thought, though.
Back from holiday, and have taken the spring seat off the second strut and put the sleeve on it. Just need to buy some springs now.
I have decided to buy proper strut tops, rather than modify the originals - it's purely an esthetic thing. Haven't decided yet whether to them from West Coast Fiero or Fiero Addiction - does anyone else make them?
------------------ '85 SE 2M6 automatic w WS6 suspension, factory sunroof, slightly modded interior, after-market cold air induction kit, rear spoiler, component speakers instead of the 4x10s, poly bushes on the cradle, swapped the 14" Tech alloys for 15" Diamond Spokes...
Outstanding tasks - adding electric windows, locks, and mirrors (all the bits sitting around in a box, awaiting time...), as well as rear adjustable coilovers, and poly bushings all 'round.
Well, I finally got around to buying both the strut tops, from Fiero Addiction, and the springs, from Faulkners.
As I had to strip the paint from the strut barrels in order to get the sleeves on, I now need to re-paint them. Once that is done, all I have to do is find the time to swap them in, when it isn't dark and when it isn't raining... :lol:
The (nearly finished) struts.
------------------ '85 SE 2M6 automatic '84 SE 2M4 manual
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03:26 AM
PFF
System Bot
Nov 17th, 2008
JPH87 Member
Posts: 292 From: Post Falls ID Registered: Sep 2008
How would Coil-over conversion for an FWD x-body/a-body work for front and rears? Would the rear be strong enoughI know that fiero shocks and struts will work on my x-11 and a few members have done that to lower their car several inches. Wondered what would be better for handling?
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11:24 AM
doublec4 Member
Posts: 8289 From: Oakville, Ontario, Canada Registered: Jun 2003
So I'm feeling a little overwhelmed with info and options.
I have an 86 SE with a 3800 SC manual 4spd in it. I'm looking to make some coil overs... I currently have KYB's in the rear.
What I'm confused with is the length of threaded collar to buy, length of spring, number of coils, and spring rate for my set up...
I want to do this right the first time. Anybody with lots of experience who wants to give me a few pointers, please let me know. I've read a lot in this thread about guys with 350 swaps, and stock motors, and people who have posted what they've done, but not entirely too much on how it worked out for them, or if thjey would have gone with another spring rate if they did it a second time etc. Thanks!
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01:37 PM
Fiero2m8 Member
Posts: 1928 From: Niagara, Ontario, Canada Registered: Feb 2006
I used 350lbs and like them, from what I know about your car 300's should be just right for you. Get a 5" inch threaded collar and the longest springs you can fit - with your ride height 10-12" length range would be best IMHO.
What spring rate you guys recommand for a for a 88GT with a Shelby S1 and a 4t80. I am looking for about an inch drop in the rear. So what would I need to make this happen?
After I finished the job,I went out looking for potholes, sleeping policemen, and cats eyes, and was really pleased with the results. Although the suspension still needs to be properly set up front and rear, I was surprised by how smooth the ride was - I had been worried that the 375lb springs would be too stiff, but that isn't the case at all. Interestingly, there was a minor, but obvious difference in the angle of the struts at the knuckles when I started (they are much closer to the same angle now).
I initially set the height by eye before installing the struts and am about 1cm too high (compared to standard) so need to drop them a bit, next time I'm at home and it isn't dark and it isn't raining...
Ciao!
------------------ '85 SE 2M6 automatic '84 SE 2M4 manual '98 Ford Mondeo Si '73 Peugeot 304 S Cabriolet
[This message has been edited by Madscanner (edited 01-26-2009).]
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07:57 AM
Feb 16th, 2009
Duke_On_Fire Member
Posts: 71 From: Smithfield, RI, USA Registered: May 2007
I'm STILL waiting for someone who did this with the cheaper sleeves from a kit for another car to tell us what works. Has anyone actually done this??? ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
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02:28 PM
FieroFanatic13 Member
Posts: 3521 From: Big Rapids, MI, USA Registered: Jul 2006
I'm STILL waiting for someone who did this with the cheaper sleeves from a kit for another car to tell us what works. Has anyone actually done this??? Paul aka "Tha Driver"
That makes two of us. I keep seeing the "Civic" kits on e-bay and wondering...
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05:03 PM
PFF
System Bot
Mar 1st, 2009
tomanyfieros Member
Posts: 2702 From: Albany, Ohio Registered: Nov 2000
Originally posted by FieroFanatic13: That makes two of us. I keep seeing the "Civic" kits on e-bay and wondering...
OK, maybe a little more useful info: There was a used set on egay recently that the guy said was for a "92 93 94 95 Honda Civic Hatchback". I asked him & he said the inside diameter was 2 1/2", which if I'm not mistaken (I haven't re-checked) will fit our struts. Of course, as usual the idiots at egay bid more for these than a new set goes for so I didn't bid. I still have not heard back from any of the several venders that I've contacted. I doubt they even have the item in stock... ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
I just picked up a set of 2 sleeves and nuts with some hats for 10.00 from a guy at work.I have the kyb rears these are just over the 2inch id i was reading about will these still be ok? If so i just need to pick up some springs and i can tear it down next weekend Also they are 5 1/2 long i was planning on buying some 12inch 350 springs as this is going in a v8 car Thanks for any help.
[This message has been edited by GTCONVERSION (edited 04-13-2009).]
GT, the sleeves I got were a larger diameter at the top and bottom, but tapered in and were narrower in most of the sleeve. I can't tell from your picture if yours are the same ID all the way through or not.
On a related note, has anyone else that has used 300 lb springs or higher had problems with the springs not being secure when adjusting the collar down to get a nice ride height? What I mean is, to get the ride height to sit lower than stock, I have to crank down the adjusting collars, which causes the springs to not sit against the upper strut mounts (with the car in the air, of course). I know that the springs should stay in place with normal driving, but the off chance of hitting a big bump, pothole, dip, etc. worries me about the spring falling away from the strut mount and not seating correctly, not to mention the big 'clunk' it would make.
By using the 12" spring I can see you get more adjustable range but if you adjusted it to near the bottom wouldn't that lower the car like 3-4"? It seems a little much. I have read through this whole thing but I still have a question that wasn't exactly covered.
It seems where the adjuster is at is about where the spring perch is normally at in most of the finished pics. Couldn't you keep the perch, get a shorter adjuster sleeve, and get a 8" or 10" spring? I know it would be easier to get coil bind that way but as long as you aren't driving crazy it should be fine I think.
I know I could be way wrong but that is why I am asking and not just doing. I just want an easy, safe way to lower the car about an inch to get rid of the big gap in the wheel wells.
