Torque settings for ’88 Fiero suspension:

upper front shock mounting bolts==20lbs
lower front shock mounting bolts==51lbs
stabilizer bar bushing clamp mounting bolts==15lbs
stabilizer bar link bolt==12lbs
upper front ball joint mounting bolts==28lbs
upper control arm ball joint to knuckle castellated nut==35lbs
upper control arm to cross member pivot bolt==66lbs
lower control arm to cross member pivot bolt nut==52lbs
lower control arm ball joint to knuckle castellated nut==55lbs
rear strut dampener to knuckle mounting bolt nuts==140lbs
rear strut dampener upper mounting bolts==18lbs
rear lower ball joint mounting bolt nuts==13lbs
rear lower ball joint stud clamp bolt nut==37lbs
rear lower control arm pivot bolts==66lbs
rear hub and bearing bolts==62lbs
rear hub and bearing assembly hub nut== intial==74lbs==final==200lbs
rear hub and bearing shield mounting bolts==55 to 70lbs
rear toe link rod nut==30 to 39lbs
wheel lug nuts==steel==80lbs==aluminum==100lbs
caliper mounting bolts==74lbs
steering wheel to shaft nut ==30lbs
outer tie rod to steering knuckle nut ==29lbs
inner tie rod to outer tie rod jam nut==50lbs
steering dampener to rack and pinion assembly nuts==32lbs
shock dampener to boot support nut==35lbs
front brake splash shield to steering knuckle bolt==7lbs
steering dampener mounting nuts==32lbs
flexible coupling pinch bolt==46lbs
rack and pinion steering assembly mounting bolts==21lbs
cross member brace bolts==20lbs

Revisions to the 88:

brake hose fitting bolt at caliper==33lbs
caliper bridge bolts==74lbs
bleeder valve--116 inches-lbs
parking brake lever to actuator screw nut==35lbs
upper control arm to cross member bolt==52lbs
lower control arm to cross member nut==37lbs (plus an additional 3/4 turn)
upper ball joint stud nut==30-40lbs
lower ball joint stud nut==26lbs (plus additional 1/2 turn)
tie rod to steering knuckle nut==15lbs (plus aditional 1/2 turn)
shock absorber upper retaining nut==8lbs
shock absorber lower retaining bolts==20lbs
stabilizer bar bushing clamp bolts==20lbs
stabilizer bar link nuts==12lbs

The torque specs came from https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/081655.html

Fine, you talked me into giving you a plus.

Thanks, I hope this helps people out. I know I've searched for this in the past but couldn't find anything.

Trying to keep this on top!

Notice the typo in the Rear Camber Service Setting. It should be -1.0°, not -10°

Also, make sure the alignment shop uses the correct settings. GT and Formulas also have Manual Steering, so it's quite common to get the coupe's 3° caster setting. I've had that happen to my Formula.

Bump to bookmark and to ask...
Since they canned the power steering, shouldn't all the 88's get the "coupe" or manual steering settings?

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1988 Fiero GT
Custom Corvette / MR2 electro-hydraulic power steering
17" rims covering up 11.25" rotors with Cadillac Calipers & drop spindles
Cleveland Fiero Club

Here are the specs for the 1988 Fiero's

Factory specified alignment settings for 88 model (from the 1988 MVMA Specifications)
Front camber +0.0 degrees
Front caster +3.0 degrees
Front toe +0.15 degrees (this is approximately equivalent to 1/16inch toe-in)
Rear camber -1.0 degrees
Rear toe +0.15 degrees (this is approximately equivalent to 1/16inch toe-in)

BUT There is a GM tecjnical service bulletin that changes the specs.

1988 revised alignment specs listed in TSB # 88-3-11
Changes Front Caster from 3.0 to 5.0 degrees for GT and Formula.
Front toe from .15 to .3 degrees and Rear toe to .5 degrees.
Adds front and rear cross car camber to be within .75 degrees, Front cross caster must be within .75 degrees.
Tie rod boot must not be twisted and must be seated in the tie rod groove.
Vehicle must be jounced three times before checking alignment to eliminate false geometry readings.

(posted from work which blocks pics from photobucket, so if this is a repeat of above I apologize.)

[This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 02-20-2009).]

Very good

quote Originally posted by Formula88: Notice the typo in the Rear Camber Service Setting. It should be -1.0�, not -10� Also, make sure the alignment shop uses the correct settings. GT and Formulas also have Manual Steering, so it's quite common to get the coupe's 3� caster setting. I've had that happen to my Formula.

Does the coupe's caster settings on a GT or Formula change much or noticable??

Let me know...thanks.

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fierogt28

88 GT, loaded, 5-speed

quote Originally posted by fierogt28: Does the coupe's caster settings on a GT or Formula change much or noticable?? Let me know...thanks.

The other difference between the coupe and the GT/Formula is the GT/Formula's use the 15" wheels with different offsets (between front and rear wheels) while the coupe's still use the same offset on all four of the 14" wheels.

[This message has been edited by Oreif (edited 02-20-2009).]

The real key is the jouncing of the suspension 3 times. I can't tell you how many times I've gotten an alignment over the years where they neglected to do this. As soon as I drove away and the suspension settled, it was out of whack.

I just went through an alignment nightmare myself with my modified '88 coupe. The kid doing the alignment was completely clueless on how to adjust the upper control arms. The pics of the control arms explaining how to adjust the camber & caster would have been very uselful!

Also, giving him the proper torque values for the upper ontrol arm bolts would have probably helped too. Twice they aligned it and both times as soon as I drove away both control arms shifted and the alignment was screwed up because he failed to torque the bolts! I can't imagine spending 2+ hours aligning a car (they spent a total of 13 hours over the course of 3 days and still never got it right) only to mess everything up by not tightening down the bolts. Stupid.


Sorry for the rant.....it just seems like nobody can align an '88 Fiero worth a damn.

quote Originally posted by mrfiero: Sorry for the rant.....it just seems like nobody can align an '88 Fiero worth a damn.

You think thats tough? Try explaining to an allignment shop that you have an 85 Fiero front suspension and 88 rear. Not to mention that my suspensioin is not exactly stock on either end. You can practically see their head explode. They just don't know what to do if their computer cant tell them what to set everything to. Cracks me up every time. At this point I just bring them a list and have them set it to my settings. It's really the only way.

quote Originally posted by Oreif: Here are the specs for the 1988 Fiero's Factory specified alignment settings for 88 model (from the 1988 MVMA Specifications) Front camber +0.0 degrees Front caster +3.0 degrees Front toe +0.15 degrees (this is approximately equivalent to 1/16inch toe-in) Rear camber -1.0 degrees Rear toe +0.15 degrees (this is approximately equivalent to 1/16inch toe-in) BUT There is a GM tecjnical service bulletin that changes the specs. 1988 revised alignment specs listed in TSB # 88-3-11 Changes Front Caster from 3.0 to 5.0 degrees for GT and Formula. Front toe from .15 to .3 degrees and Rear toe to .5 degrees. Adds front and rear cross car camber to be within .75 degrees, Front cross caster must be within .75 degrees. Tie rod boot must not be twisted and must be seated in the tie rod groove. Vehicle must be jounced three times before checking alignment to eliminate false geometry readings. (posted from work which blocks pics from photobucket, so if this is a repeat of above I apologize.)

quote Originally posted by Oreif: There is a GM tecjnical service bulletin that changes the specs. 1988 revised alignment specs listed in TSB # 88-3-11 Changes Front Caster from 3.0 to 5.0 degrees for GT and Formula. Front toe from .15 to .3 degrees and Rear toe to .5 degrees. Adds front and rear cross car camber to be within .75 degrees, Front cross caster must be within .75 degrees. Tie rod boot must not be twisted and must be seated in the tie rod groove. Vehicle must be jounced three times before checking alignment to eliminate false geometry readings.

Thanks for posting this info, but the rear toe spec you reported (highlighted above) is wrong. The correct toe specs are 0.3 degrees total in the front, and 0.15 degrees per side (0.3 degrees total) in the rear. Here is a true copy of the original TSB:



I have also posted the correct information in this thread.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 10-02-2009).]

quote Originally posted by mrfiero: Also, giving him the proper torque values for the upper ontrol arm bolts would have probably helped too. Twice they aligned it and both times as soon as I drove away both control arms shifted and the alignment was screwed up because he failed to torque the bolts! I can't imagine spending 2+ hours aligning a car (they spent a total of 13 hours over the course of 3 days and still never got it right) only to mess everything up by not tightening down the bolts. Stupid. Sorry for the rant.....it just seems like nobody can align an '88 Fiero worth a damn.

Been there, and feel your pain. It's usually at least a weekend I have to devote to it if I have to get mine aligned. I would rather replace the engine than have to get an '88 aligned. Between the UCA bolt shaft torque, the complexity of the camber and caster interactions, and the lack of accurate specs in the alignment computers it's a nightmare I would rather avoid. Speaking of which, those UCA torque values listed above, if I'm reading them right, can't be correct. 52lbs?! Not even TWICE that much is enough! It takes somewhere in the neighborhood of 130 ft-lbs on the UCA shaft bolts to keep them from popping loose as soon as you drive off the rack.

quote Originally posted by crazyd: ... those UCA torque values listed above, if I'm reading them right, can't be correct. 52lbs?! Not even TWICE that much is enough! It takes somewhere in the neighborhood of 130 ft-lbs on the UCA shaft bolts to keep them from popping loose as soon as you drive off the rack.

From the GM/Helm factory service manual: "Final torque to the U.C.A. shaft bolts 70 N*m (52 lb. ft.) + 1/4 turn (90^o)." The "+ 1/4 turn (90^o)" part is very important, to preload the bolts. From personal experience, I agree that even 52 ft-lb + 1/4 turn is barely sufficient.

[This message has been edited by Marvin McInnis (edited 11-13-2009).]

Saved as "favorites."

quote Originally posted by crazyd: Been there, and feel your pain. It's usually at least a weekend I have to devote to it if I have to get mine aligned. I would rather replace the engine than have to get an '88 aligned. Between the UCA bolt shaft torque, the complexity of the camber and caster interactions, and the lack of accurate specs in the alignment computers it's a nightmare I would rather avoid. Speaking of which, those UCA torque values listed above, if I'm reading them right, can't be correct. 52lbs?! Not even TWICE that much is enough! It takes somewhere in the neighborhood of 130 ft-lbs on the UCA shaft bolts to keep them from popping loose as soon as you drive off the rack.

Don't feel alone on this...I think of it too. 52 ft/ Lbs doesn't seem much to me, especially for suspension set-up on a car. Yes there is the 1/4 turn more but that may come to a total of 60-ft / Lbs...about...

Even just 52 ft / Lbs is not even in the range an engine head bolt is torqued. They require 65-75 ft/ Lbs...just to give an idea.

BTW, always tell the service advisor or mechanic to tighten them to spec or else your no going to pay for the alignment. Or tell them clearly that if the car's alignment comes off because of a loose UCA on 88s, their going to have to do the job again. If you tell them and they don't listen, at least you have a word to go by. Your the customer and your in control. Show them that your not going to leave unless those bolts are torque properly. Your the one paying, so don't be affaid.

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fierogt28

88 GT, loaded, 5-speed

quote Originally posted by fierogt28: Does the coupe's caster settings on a GT or Formula change much or noticable?? Let me know...thanks.

Yes, I thought going from 5* to 3* was the single best suspension mod I made on the Formula in my quest to make it feel like a proper sports car---at 5* caster, I thought the car was a hopeless turd.
The goal was to make the steering as light and as nimble feeling as possible without it being squirrelly on the straights, and to lighten up the steering while cornering.
With the 205 50s, then 195 60s tires on the front, the stability is right on the edge of being comfortable on the highway, and the road feedback thru the wheel is quite good.
If you are running non-stock rims with different offsets and / or wide. wide tires on the front, I wouldn't do it.
The secret is fresh suspension, stockish width tires, and as little weight up front as possible.
If you don't like it, you can always go back to the 5*.
P.S.
---- my Fiero is officially gone as of today. Now I'll have to make do with two Loti.
Cheers.

quote Originally posted by whereatt: ... I know I've searched for this in the past but couldn't find anything.

... or people could just download the 88 Service Manual http://www.fieronews.net/fusion/downloads.php

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My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)

3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 05-23-2010).]

Bump.

see my cave, alignment specifications in suspension section.
PDF has specifications and TSBs.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 11-13-2011).]